Is this a newer sealed combustion unit with click/spark or an older style type with an open door/light pilot setup? To check for gas to unit.
1. shut off fuel line valve to appl.
2. You DO have one right?
3. loosen cap on the botton of the drip leg.
4. The installer DID put one in right?
5. Open fuel line valve, and make sure there is gas blowing. There will be [if nat gas] about 7 inches [1/4 pound] it won't blow very hard.
6. If all other gas appliances work it's your reponsibility to repair.
7. If no other gas appl work and no gas blows out call in a NO GAS call to your utility. As an A gas man I can tell you it WON'T take a week, we hit those pretty quick, 99% in one day, usually in a few hours.
If you cant even get a pilot flame while holding down the pilot button [old style] I would suspect you have a clogged pilot orifice. Pull the entire burner assy out. All you have to do is take off the pilot tube, the burner tube and the thermocouple tube off the thermostat/gas valve. Pull the whole assy out and take apart the pilot assy at the burner. There should be a hole the size of a hair thru the pilot orifice. We use a dental drill to clean them OR we replace the with the proper size one. You can try to find a piece of copper wire stranding small enough also.
If you get pilot flame but it goes out when you release the button, probably thermocouple.
If it ends up being the thermostat/valve, Well, my opinion is unless it's new and under warrenty, f-it, I can buy a new water heater and install it myself for about the same price I could pay someone to replace the thermostat/valve. [my opinion only]
[Gas utility appl repair last 15 years here]