Posted: 4/24/2005 12:11:56 PM EDT
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I'm trying to decide on mechanical versus electronic lock. I've read the other threads on here, but I want to collect some data, beyond the opinions. This is not a electronic lock versus mechanical lock thread, please. This is also not for electronic lock "I've heard this or that." I'm just trying to collect verified information on whether or not catastrophic electronic lock failure really occures or if it's all BS. If you have an electronic lock can you please post the following: 1. Exactly what kind of lock it is, as specific as possible (i.e. S&G, S&G 6120, LaGard, LaGard LGBasic, etc.) 2. How long have you had it? 3. How many, and what kind of problems have you had with it (outside of simple battery related problems). 4. How often do you use it? Anything else you would like to add, but please, only things observed first hand. I'm trying to get an honest collection of data. Thanks. I'm sure this will help others thinking about the same thing too. EDITED to add: Does anybody know of any safe/locks type discussion forums or even sub-forum anywhere? |
| I know of two S&Gs that I installed that have been running for several years. I have two LG. They use a 9v battery about every two years. They beep when they start to get low, as one is just now doing again after two years. I operate them as much as 20 times a day. All the fear of wearing through the pad from use are BS. |
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I have a Cannon in my home, it is about 2 years old. I have had zero problems. I open it about 5 times a week. there is NO sign of wear on the keys I use and I have never changed the combo. I have a floor safe at my office, that is a dial, it is a PITA. I am planing on adding a safe for my office that has the electronic pad. It is so much easier to open. There is no comparision, the electronic pad is the only way to go for a new purchase. If you can find a great deal on a used dial safe no reason not to save some money. YMMV |
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tagged. I'm in this exact same position now and would love to hear it all. I've read the other thread with the "you can open it by hotwiring the 9V" bit and don't believe it. Mabye an earlier cheap one but it would be nice if we had a safe tech weigh in on this one. |
| I can't imagine a quality safe made today would be vulnerable to a "9-volt battery trick". The safe companies do care about stuff like that, because if an easy way to open their safes was discovered and publicized, it would kill their sales and reputation. Most likely, an early electronic safe had such a vulnerability, but it was fixed in later versions. Just my opinion, though. |
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S&G, not sure what model, on a liberty safe. Had it for about 3 years now. I change the battery every year. It never says it needs it, I just do it. I probably open it on average once a day. Not saying I do open it everyday, just that it seems to work out that many times. A week without opening it at all, and then a day where I open it 4 or 5 times. No wear as far as I can tell on any of the buttons. No problems at all so far. I just like how fast I can get in. |
To end this quickly; yes. At least for most common mechanical locks (such as S&G). Now back to the thread.... please.. Electronic lock owners, please post your electronic lock EXPERIENCE if you don't mind. It would help a lot of us out. |
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S&G (not sure on model) Average use: Once per day Time in use: 4 years Battery Replacement (not yet) The only issue I have had was its ability to lift the bolts is very week. After the first installation I had times when you would punch the code, hear the lock, and couldn't open the door. Safe Manufacturer (Heritage) said this was due to the bolts binding from the door not being level. Adjusted the door per their instrucitons and have never had an issue since then, but I worried when I moved recently that it would get set un-level and I wouldn't be able to open it and adjust it. |
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I've had an S&G electronic since 1998 or so, which is still running on the original batteries. Not a single problem. Batteries are dying now, but since the ex is keeping the safe, I figure she can figure it out. ETA: My next safe shall also have an S&G electronic. I'll not consider anything else. |
I put a S&G 6120 on my Granite (Winchester Sam's Club 11/22 gun) safe about 7 months ago.
Zero.
Twice a day, on average. |
fiz i have the same safe, give me the who where and how much to put the new lock in TIA James |
I got my lock on Ebay and did it myself. Just nuts & bolts, nothing hard. If you do it yourself, then BE CAREFUL!  archive.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=1&f=5&t=280493 |
 A bit territorial, are we? Blammo's comment was pretty directly related to the topic at hand.
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Having installed one, I can vouch for this. The external keypad is dumb. Nothing on the outside of the safe has the ability to unlock it. The keypad simply sends the number signals into the brains of the lock, which are inside the safe door and behind a drill plate. |
. The small one now lives in the garage as an ammo safe. The Cannon is great.
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Thanks to everybody's responses. Seems to me the rumors about electronic locks failing are just that - rumors. I've heard a lot of people tell me that they've heard of them failing, but I think this thread shows that those people don't exist, or at least not here. Would still like to collect more owner's data to confirm this. Or if you have had an electronic lock fail on you (for non-battery realted issues), please let us all know. |
Threads like this come up often, and I've seen more than one locksmith pipe up and say that they've seen a higher failure rate in mechanical locks than electronic ones. The electronics are simple and beefy (it's not like they're overclocked computers running XP or something). They might not hold up in the event of an EMP or flood, but otherwise, there's not much to worry about. |
What is probably happening is that the bolt handle is trying to rotate to the open position and the linkage is putting a slight side load on the lock retract. A friend of mine had a safe that did that, and what we found was, that if you punched in the combo, and then tried to turn the handle to the left in the locking direction would relieve any tension on the lock retract. Then, the lock could retract and the safe could then be opened. |
S&G 6120. I bought it on the 'net, and installed it in a safe that I built myself.
One year.
None
2-3 times/day, on average. I call BS on the CLAIMS that any e-lock can be defeated with a 9v battery. Every tin-foil addict echoes the urban legends, but no one ever posts the supposed proceedure. If it is common knowledge amongst all criminals, they really wouldn't be letting the proverbrial cat out of the bag, yet no one ever mans up and backs up their CLAIMS with facts. Until I see it myself, I'll continue using my S&G 6120. As for tampering, sure a burgular could smash the keypad, requiring a visit from the locksmith to open/repair, but mechanical locks are no less vulnerable to this type of damage. I wouldn't even consider putting a mechanical lock on a safe. Fast access, easy combo changes, multiple codes, and more... |
S&G 6120. Bought it on eBay and replaced the S&G mechanical in my Liberty safe after getting the idea from fizassist and learning from his experience
About six months
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1-2 times a day, on average. Never going back to a mechanical lock. |
Thank you for your tact.
What does it cost to retrofit one? |
I think I paid about $80 NIB, and it took about 2 hours, but only because I was going s-l-o-w-l-y and learning as I went. I took a bunch of pictures of the process if you're interested, and as much as fizassist chuckles at his experience with replacing his, his post were very informative. I probably wouldn't have tried it without reading his experience. Now that I've done it, I realize there really isn't much to it if you go slow. |
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I have both types. The 1st is a Browning Prosteel with a S&G dial lock. After approx 14 years not a single problem. The 2nd is a Cannon Safe with a digital lock. The lock has a Cannon label on it so I will assume it is a cannon lock. If not cannon I don't know who made it. In any case it really doesn't matter as it works perfectly. It is approx 4 years old and is opened on average 1 time per day. I need to change the battery about every 12 to 18 months. I have not had any trouble with the digital lock and preferr it over the dial lock. I didn't know a person could upgrade a dial lock to a digital. I will check into that for the Browning. Standard bit of advice. Get a safe 2x bigger than you think you need. Because they fill up fast.  Good Luck |