Posted: 3/30/2005 8:25:29 PM EDT
Another auto Q from svtfast  (needs automotive forum)I have to replace my battery terminals but on my N terminal, there is this stupid connector that grounds about 6 wires to the battery. The new terminals that I have are so much better than my old ones but there is no place for this connector. Couldnt I just move the grounds to another main ground point that is 6" ways that grounds to the frame? This is one of my new terminals. 
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If they were originally connected to the battery's negative terminal, moving them to the frame instead doesn't connect them to the negative terminal anymore (unless you have provided a separate connection between the frame and the negative terminal). A suggestion: Toss the bling and concentrate on making solid connections, rather than improving the cosmetics. |
| I am no expert but I do believe the frame and battery ground is one (remember when jumping cars they tell you to connect one of the negative clips to the frame?). However I still suggest you concentrate on the connection and connect it to the battery, it will likely save you a lot of trouble and guesswork later on. |
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There is a small amount of voltage drop at every connection . This resistance is dissipated thermally , which is not an issue in circuits that draw less then 30 amps . On the other hand a .2% drop on a 300 amp draw is enough to cause some serious heat . Your best bet is to have a main cable made with a compression swaged accessory tab that you can securely bolt to the engine or frame , then add your sub grounds to the bolt at that point . |
Ok now I am confused. I dont have any subs or amps, just a deck, the rest of that stuff is for later on. The reason I got this terminal is for the fact that it looks good and works good. I wanted a more secure way of attaching the terminals to the battery post. Fords "Stamped rolled shhet metal" terminals just dont cut it. I am going to run a 4G wire from the battery too the main ground near the battery. The old wire is 8G and my new 4G wire is amp power wire so it has a lot more strands in it. Should work better. I have to trace the rest of the 8G ground wires so I can replace those too. Those wires attach to the ground on the frame. With the new terminals, I can ground them to the battery with ease. I am going to replace my P cables too. I just need some time to do that. Since the org wire from the battery to the starter is 8G, 4G amp power wire should be plenty good. |
What you want to do sounds fine , just remember that electricity flows in a loop , so that the weakest link on either side effects the entire circuit . It’s best to build up a system equally if possible . |
The system is all in the making. The biggest problem for me know is not $$$ or parts, but is time. The system will be finished after I come back from my Iraq deployment in April 2006. |
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Pirate4x4.com Big Three: - Negative to Engine. - Engine to Body. - Body to Negative. Replace all OEM wires with big cable (+4 ga or bigger) and make them as short as possible. This was modified for 4x4 vehicles, but the concept originated with the high end amp and music users. Good luck. |
That means connect a 4G wire from the neg terminal on the battery to the engine, from the engine to the main ground on the body, and from the main ground on the body to the neg battery terminal. Right? I also have two 8G wires that run from my pos battery terminal. One goes to the starter but I cannot trace the other one with hacking apart my harness, where would it go? 94 Escort 1.9L |
The mod'ers have grounding kits for the new hi-tech engines with any where from five to seven 4 gauge cables with gold terminal lugs on them. They run any where from $40 to $180 depending on how much money you think you should spend on $20 worth of parts. They're custom cut to mate with various parts of your engine, fender grounding point, and battery lug. 
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