Posted: 3/15/2005 7:07:13 AM EDT
| what the best way to disable a engine, with out it being discovered? car, quad, truck???beside sugar in the gas. |
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See this thread for some ideas. www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=1&f=5&t=333386 |
Hmmm...good point there. You could always yank the wire off the sending unit, if you can find/get to it quick enough. |
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Cover yourself with deet. Go out to the woods with a jar, that has a good lid. Look for ticks. If you see one on top of a leaf, you'll probably see 50 more on the underside of that same leaf. knock them into the jar. Repeat until you have hundreds of ticks in the jar. When kid isn't looking, empty jar into vehicle. But you didn't hear this from me... 
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Ok .... I am reading "disable", not "destroy" ..... yank the coil wire .... if the coil is intergral ... yank the power to the coil. if you want a more prolonged disable, cut the wires .... Most newer cars also have ignition related relays accessible under the hood ... you could yank all of those also .... EDIT: I just saw the thread title "wrecking an engine" ... nevermind.  I won't help you vandalize someone's vehicle! Although sending a 50BMG bullet through the front fender just above the wheel comes to mind .... that is if you want a to disable it from long range! 
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| Well, if it still has a distributor cap you can take a No. 2 pencil and draw heavy lines from one plug wire terminal to another. It will cause massive misfiring. It's virtually undetectable if done inside the cap. It may be against the law though so I'd advise against it. |
This won't work if the car is less than 20 years old. My GM truck, for instance, needs to see positive oil pressure 10 seconds after start or else it disables the fuel pump, and will cut fuel any time you lose oil pressure. This keeps your wife from driving and driving with the oil light on. These are methods I've had personal experience with: Toilet paper in gas tank: Only use a handful of sheets - not the whole roll!! It turns into mud and sloshes around in the tank clogging the gas filter. It will cause intermittant and frequent stalling, but no real damage. Antifreeze in gas tank: Just a pint or so - not the whole two gallon jug. This is a little more destructive. AF is heavier than gas and will collect at the bottom of the tank. Besides frequent stalling, it will junk the fuel pump and gum up the pressure regulator and injectors. Can be expensive. Burning the AF for even a short period (like limping home) will also kill the cat converter. Valve grinding compound in engine: You dump a container of VGC into the valve cover/oil filler. Everything will run just fine except the engine will wear itself out after only a few thousand miles. Very destructive - the engine will be trashed!!! For more ideas, check out this book written by those ecoterrorist assholes Earth First! |
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Yeap - Valve grinding compound in the oil works fine - takes awhile though... Add about a quart of battery acid to the automatic transmission - it eats it apart nicely lol black powder in a cylinder - replace spark plug and don't be around when the person starts it - messy bb's in the cylinder does it overtime - and it drives em mad hehe you can also - if given a LOT of time - remove the engine light from the dash - disconnect the temp gauge - if they have one - and jam a long bolt down the water pump by removing a the hose connected to it - it must fit into the fins - so that it jams it good - older model you can just undo the belt from the water pump and let em run it - even better if you remove all engine oil also - in which case disconnect the oil pressure gauge also - and thats a bad day Crimp the fuwl line with vice grips - easy gas gone lol so many things... no just don't do any - this is all about what you COULD do right? 
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how do you know it isn't a junker he's playing with - just like we did? you feel guilty about running around and revving your engine like a jerk? +1 lock it to protect the nervous people who live in cities and never had a chance to shoot at a junker thats worth -200 dollars lol |
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This is sneakier than the WWII trick of pulling the distributor rotor. Remove the coil wire (to the distributor). Strip off the boots on the end. Cut a similar length of vacuum hose. Place the coil wire boots on the ends of the vacuum hose, and plug this back in in place of the coil wire. Stand back and watch the fun as they grind the starter and kill the battery. |
How do you double-tap? doesn't it bar you form posting more than once every 30 seconds? |
| If you just want to disable the vehicle without causing any permant damage, just dump a lot of water in the gas tank. Water is heavier than gas and will sink to the bottom. The engine will start but once the fuel in the lines is used up it's pumping water and the engine dies. Usually the last place they got gas gets blamed. Water is pretty untraceable and when found is not an obvious sign of tampering. |
I like the EMP cannon idea the best.  As for the octane booster, nothing to date even comes close to tetraethyl lead for price, effectiveness and simplicity. Car Craft once did an article on most of the octane boosters on the market, then doubled and even quadrupled the suggested amount. They then performed standardized labratory tests to determine the octane rating. Some saw about a point increase, most were worthless and a good number actually DECREASED the octane rating of the gasoline. Besides, octane isn't a substance. It's a mesurement of gasoline's resitance to detonation under compression. Nothing more. When gasoline is compressed, at a certain point the molecules start vibrating very rapidly and eventualy the fuel detonates. Tetraethyl lead bonds to the molecules and has quite a dampening effect on the vibration. As a result, the fuel has to be compressed much more before it will detonate under compression. Using a fuel with an extremely high octane rating will not damage it. If it did, it would have nothing to do with the gasoline's resistance to detonation under compression. Rather, it would likely have something to do with the chemical used to achieve the higher rating. I don't even know how you go about getting gasoline up to 150 octane, personally. You sure as hell couldn't do it with those octane boosters, and I don't care how much you use. ETA: I'm pretty sure you were kidding, but I thought I'd chime in anyway. |
Ran my motorcycle dry (no oil) and blew the engine.