Posted: 2/10/2017 1:13:05 PM EDT
| Been trying to nail down a VTEC issue on a Honda. I've replaced the VTEC/ Spool valve with a genuine OEM one, cleaned the screens and done 2 oil changes.. Still getting the dreaded P2646 code. I want to try running a engine flush through to see if maybe a have a blocked passage or gunked up one. I have read where some folks say to use a quart of Dex/Merc in lieu of a quart of oil, run for 10 mins at 2K RPM. What do you guys recommend? |
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I'd try Seafoam before using something more aggressive.
http://seafoamsales.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/SFMT-OIL-Promo-Box2.png |
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I'd try Seafoam before using something more aggressive. http://seafoamsales.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/SFMT-OIL-Promo-Box2.png Yes, or race alcohol. Pour through with drain plug out, or pour in a bunch and crank the engine a few times, then drain. Just realize that when you fill it back up with oil, that oil is immediately junk, drain it again and refill. |
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Kerosene and diesel will dissolve sludge, if thats what you think you have. Most oil flushes are basically kerosene anyway.
They wont provide significant lubrication, so you may want to consider mixing a thicker oil with the additive. Make sure you have good oil pressure before you put weird shit through the engine, you could be looking at a low pressure from a clogged pump, or increased bearing clearance from wear. If that is the case, you may want to use a thicker oil for the remaining life of the engine. |
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2003 Honda Element with 2.4L Honda used to spec 5w30 for everything outside the US. I'd go with 5w30 not a 10w40. Honda doesn't even sell an automotive 10w40, only in their motorcycle line up. So it's definitely not something they'd recommend and it's even old spec in their motorcycle line up. |
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Yeah. Ive been told to bump up from 5W20 to 10w40. Word on the street is that 0w-20 is speced for marginal increase in fuel efficiency while sacrificing engine longevity. I would look at the mobil one synthetic 5w-30 oils for the next change. If you have owned this since new, always changed the oil on time, and always used decent quality oil, then i wouldnt think its sludge related. |
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Step one disconnect battery Step two take off head Step three send to machine shop to clean the fuck out of it This is the best thing to do. The cheaper but riskier thing is to drain the oil and refill with a 50/50 mix of diesel and oil. Run it for 10 minutes then do an oil change. This runs the risk of plugging your oil pick up and your bearings are not properly lubed with the mix. So you run a risk of shortening the engine life. |
| My opinion ( and I do mean opinion ) is : Not much sludge, or neglect built up over thousands of miles in oil or cooling systems can be flushed away with solvents or additives. It's in there good and the way to combat it was to drain and refill with fresh at a decent interval. I have had some luck with fuel system cleaners though. |
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Warm motor up, add 1 quart Marvel Mystery Oil; drive slow around block, then change oil and filter.
Amsoil is the best oil there is. Since 1979 I have used it in semi's, race cars, snowmobile's and everything that uses oil. When you have had oil sampled about 20 times that is used hard in severe conditions; get back to me. |
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Just got done reading on a Honda forum that best oil to use on higher mileage Elements ( this one has 167K ) is 10w-40. Guy posting is a Honda tech and has seem these issues clear up on highe rmilage cars with VTEC problems.. That makes absolutely zero sense, besides an increase in viscosity. Which, if you're having oil pressure issues, then that's a different problem all together then sludge build up. 
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Warm motor up, add 1 quart Marvel Mystery Oil; drive slow around block, then change oil and filter. Amsoil is the best oil there is. Since 1979 I have used it in semi's, race cars, snowmobile's and everything that uses oil. When you have had oil sampled about 20 times that is used hard in severe conditions; get back to me. When you probably send in over 2000 oil samples a week get back to me. When you sell approximately ~14-15 million gallons of finished lubricants in a year, get back to me. |
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That makes absolutely zero sense, besides an increase in viscosity. Which, if you're having oil pressure issues, then that's a different problem all together then sludge build up. http://www.oilspecifications.org/img/api-sn-api-sm-comparison-chart.png Yeah. Im not exactly sure what the issue is, if its a blockage or oil pressure issue. I don't have the adapters to do a oil pressure test on the car so doing a flush would be the less expensive thing to do and eliminate that as a problem first. |
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And how do you qualify that statement? Best synthetic you can buy? As I'd highly disagree. Quoted:
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Check out the Amsoil website. Best synthetic you can buy, and they have plenty of other additives and cleaners. And how do you qualify that statement? Best synthetic you can buy? As I'd highly disagree. Eli seen you coming 
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Yeah. Im not exactly sure what the issue is, if its a blockage or oil pressure issue. I don't have the adapters to do a oil pressure test on the car so doing a flush would be the less expensive thing to do and eliminate that as a problem first. There's a lot of Engine Oil Systems flushes out there. Majority of them are made by one company. (I know this because the major lubricants brand that I am an owner of, gets it made by that company...) Directions should be dump the quart into the engine. Run for 15 minutes. Drain, change filter, refill with new oil. As I said previously, I'd stick with a quality 5w20 or 5w30 for that engine. 5w20 was US Honda spec, 5w30 is outside US honda spec. Moving up to a 10w40 would put a serious strain on your oil pump to maintain proper pressures, especially in cold weather start ups. Edit: I'd also check the wiring going to the sensor, make sure it's not corroded or broken anywhere. If you have a continuity tester, that would also be helpful. |
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There's a lot of Engine Oil Systems flushes out there. Majority of them are made by one company. (I know this because the major lubricants brand that I am an owner of, gets it made by that company...) Directions should be dump the quart into the engine. Run for 15 minutes. Drain, change filter, refill with new oil. As I said previously, I'd stick with a quality 5w20 or 5w30 for that engine. 5w20 was US Honda spec, 5w30 is outside US honda spec. Moving up to a 10w40 would put a serious strain on your oil pump to maintain proper pressures, especially in cold weather start ups. Edit: I'd also check the wiring going to the sensor, make sure it's not corroded or broken anywhere. If you have a continuity tester, that would also be helpful. Thanks. I will try the 5W30. I've been trying to find the pinout diagram as to where to check for continuity from that pin on the oil pressure switch to the PCM. |
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Warm motor up, add 1 quart Marvel Mystery Oil; drive slow around block, then change oil and filter. Amsoil is the best oil there is. Since 1979 I have used it in semi's, race cars, snowmobile's and everything that uses oil. When you have had oil sampled about 20 times that is used hard in severe conditions; get back to me. 
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When you probably send in over 2000 oil samples a week get back to me. When you sell approximately ~14-15 million gallons of finished lubricants in a year, get back to me. Amsoil is some good oil. So is Castrol, and Mobil, and Rotella. The Amsoil cult guys always crack me up though. Guess that's how snake-oil salesman earned a living back in the day; suckers who will believe any sales pitch thrown at them. |
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Amsoil is some good oil. So is Castrol, and Mobil, and Rotella. The Amsoil cult guys always crack me up though. Guess that's how snake-oil salesman earned a living back in the day; suckers who will believe any sales pitch thrown at them. You had me up till Rotella. Then I wanted to gouge my eyes out. If you would of said Kendall DXA or Chevron Delo XLE, I'd of continued agreeing... Amsoil isn't bad, but you're not getting anything special. They're a compound blender - What's that mean? They buy base oil's from around the country, they do NOT make their own. They also buy additive packages off the shelves to fit their applications. They do NOT make their own. They make their oil's 'better' by over treating with additive and basically either going OVER spec, or pushing the limits of the spec, depending on if they want to follow API specifications. While being on the upper end is good, and beyond it is better in some* cases, it's not always great. Where as, say for the same price range - you could buy Redline. Redline fully admits they cannot meet API spec because they just over treat the fuck out of the base oils. Plus, redline up front admits to using PAO/Esters completely. |
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You had me up till Rotella. Then I wanted to gouge my eyes out. If you would of said Kendall DXA or Chevron Delo XLE, I'd of continued agreeing... Amsoil isn't bad, but you're not getting anything special. They're a compound blender - What's that mean? They buy base oil's from around the country, they do NOT make their own. They also buy additive packages off the shelves to fit their applications. They do NOT make their own. They make their oil's 'better' by over treating with additive and basically either going OVER spec, or pushing the limits of the spec, depending on if they want to follow API specifications. While being on the upper end is good, and beyond it is better in some* cases, it's not always great. Where as, say for the same price range - you could buy Redline. Redline fully admits they cannot meet API spec because they just over treat the fuck out of the base oils. Plus, redline up front admits to using PAO/Esters completely. Wellll, I'm in farm country, so Rotella is good for the tractors, and it's also JASO MA rated for my ATV engines. Cheap, available everywhere, and versatile. I run Castrol in all the vehicles. Have run GTX as long as I've been driving. I have Redline MT90 in my Jeep transmission. Good stuff. Amsoil is good stuff, but the cult-like following it has is absurd. It's good oil. It's not BETTER oil, it's just good oil. For the price, no thank you. |
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Yeah. Im not exactly sure what the issue is, if its a blockage or oil pressure issue. I don't have the adapters to do a oil pressure test on the car so doing a flush would be the less expensive thing to do and eliminate that as a problem first. Rent them from oreillys for free (with deposit). Look at used oil analysis results from bobisoilguy forum. UOAs are the only way to quantify oil performance. "Noise" and "feel" are entirely too subjective, and often meaningless. |