Posted: 7/9/2016 11:18:48 PM EDT
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Bought this 20ft Bayliner in 1990 at Myrtle Beach as an 1LT. Been dragging it around for 26years. The original floor was rotted out due to water being accumulated in the hull for years at a time. Basically the entire floor was rotted to the point that you could not walk on it without sinking thru the rotted wood. It ls now pretty damn solid in 3 pieces. Just did the new floor with 3/4in pressure treated plywood painted with marine based paint and carpeted. Turned out pretty good. My 20yr old daughter just inherited it and the 150hp force outboard 150 was beastly as usual. Damn, the entire floor was rotted out due to not draining after rains etc. But this worked out ok and should give the daughter at least a few years of use out of this boat. For boat owners here. How do you extend your boat life.?  |
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Quoted: Carpet is the debil |
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Quoted: First, never use pressure treated wood. Use marine grade with epoxy and fiberglass. Sounds like you have a leak. Leave it nose high with the drain plug pulled. NO leak at all, but the bilge pump dont run now. so bought a new one to eventurally plumb in. Ran the boat for 2 hrs or 15 gallons and it was solid as hell. THe big problem was about 8 years of neglect and not checking out the torn cover and water back up in the hull due to rat/mice chewing shit up and blocking the drains and bilge. |
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Quoted: OP, are you going to monster out the engine(s) on that, like the Camaro?   |
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Quoted: I have a 97 bayliner that is in mint condition from the bow to the stern. Never done any major repairs either... Want to know the secret? Keep it in the garage unless your using it. Weather kills boats. |
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What condition were the stringers and transom in? They are also made of wood. When the floor goes the other parts usually go. Did you fiberglass over the plywood? How did you attach the plywood to the boat? What shape was the flotation foam in? What about the bilge pump system? Does it have one and is it on an automatic float switch? My rebuilt boat sank because I pulled a boarding ladder screw out and the automatic bilge pump failed. I added a $2 LED into the dash that is connected to the automatic float switch. That little thing right there would have prevented the sinking because I would have known water was in the bilge. I actually have multi-layer bilge system now and the boat will not sink even if you forget the plug. A YouTube video on that will be below. I have some experience with this. Below is a link to a summary thread on my complete rebuild. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-repair-and-restoration/boat-restoration-building-and-hull-repair/473109-1987-cheetah-196-fish-and-ski-rebuild-project-and-pictures Bottom half of the boat with rotting floor.  Here is what the stringers looked like. They were completely gone which allowed the hull to flex too much creating a stress fracture in the bottom of the boat.  Before and after pictures.      Bilge system. Dual pumps connected to an automatic float switch with an LED indicator light in the dash. Second state is a massive pump sitting out of bilge connected by a second float switch which is also connected to an alarm. Total cost is under $300 and provides great peace of mind.  |
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Quoted: Did you get rid of the foam floatation crap under the floor ? That shit just soaks up moisture and saturates the wood floor and stringers. BTDT. this boat is part of my families soul. Weve had it for a long damn time and it ran like a raped ape today,. |
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Quoted: Did you get rid of the foam floatation crap under the floor ? That shit just soaks up moisture and saturates the wood floor and stringers. BTDT. That foam crap is critical to the boat. When it is water logged it needs to be replaced but removing it would be about as smart as removing seat belts and air bags from your car. When my rebuilt boat sank the back went under water up to the first cylinder of the motor and no further. You want to know why? I had the proper flotation foam crap installed when I rebuilt it. If I had not put the flotation foam back in the of being partially submerged my boat would have been 30 feet under the surface. This happened while we were sleeping on the boat on the lake. So if you want to greatly increase your chances of dying go ahead and remove the flotation foam. Having a boat take on water and partially submerge twice, I know first hand the importance of all the safety equipment. |
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If the PT was dried you are fine. I have used marine teck Kiln dried PT with poly and vinyl ester with no problems.
Best way to keep a boat lasting forever is to seal and reseal every screw into the core. Always keep the bilge and deck dry if not permantly moored. If possible store it under a carport. I am going to redo my boats floor pretty soon, I plan on going with carbon core. Should be an interesting build. |
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Quoted: Most of the original floor was gone. probably 69% sunk under your feet. We cut it out and the stringers were solid. 3/4 inch wood painted with real sticky marine paint and covered in the outdoor carpet were real solid for the 2 hrs driving the boat today. We did it in 3 sections as you can see here. this way, we can still store skis, etc under the middle section. Im gonna screw a handle on the center section to ease lifting it for the skis etc stored below. this boat is part of my families soul. Weve had it for a long damn time and it ran like a raped ape today,. Quoted: Quoted: Did you get rid of the foam floatation crap under the floor ? That shit just soaks up moisture and saturates the wood floor and stringers. BTDT. this boat is part of my families soul. Weve had it for a long damn time and it ran like a raped ape today,. So you cut out the flotation foam and didn't replace it? The volume of water under the floor is enough to make the difference between a partially submerged boat and a boat sinking all the way to the bottom dragging down whatever or whoever is in it. This is the foam that I added back into the boat after I rebuilt the stringers.  |
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So you cut out the flotation foam and didn't replace it? The volume of water under the floor is enough to make the difference between a partially submerged boat and a boat sinking all the way to the bottom dragging down whatever or whoever is in it. This is the foam that I added back into the boat after I rebuilt the stringers. http://www.afterhourtechs.com/boat/glassing_front_of_stringers.jpg Quoted:
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Did you get rid of the foam floatation crap under the floor ? That shit just soaks up moisture and saturates the wood floor and stringers. BTDT. this boat is part of my families soul. Weve had it for a long damn time and it ran like a raped ape today,. So you cut out the flotation foam and didn't replace it? The volume of water under the floor is enough to make the difference between a partially submerged boat and a boat sinking all the way to the bottom dragging down whatever or whoever is in it. This is the foam that I added back into the boat after I rebuilt the stringers. http://www.afterhourtechs.com/boat/glassing_front_of_stringers.jpg Nope, I left it out. The guy I sold the boat to (20ft Reinell) 16 years ago is still using it and keeps it in a marina every summer. However, he does make sure the float switch for the bilge pump is working and he runs a solar trickle charger to make sure the battery is in good shape in case a storm blows in. I saw him just last Tuesday and he's still bragging about my old boat. Fucker. (not you) |
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Quoted: Not good enough. For $2 more you can add an LED indicator light to the dash which will warn you if the bilge pump can't keep up or isn't removing the water. Forget the plug and the pump will not be able to keep up. Quoted: Quoted: Auto bilge. One costs about $20. Not good enough. For $2 more you can add an LED indicator light to the dash which will warn you if the bilge pump can't keep up or isn't removing the water. Forget the plug and the pump will not be able to keep up. |
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Quoted: Thats the other issue. the old bilge pump wont run due to the crap and garbage from the rotten flooring. I got a new bilge pump but did not need it today. the boat did not have an ounce of water in the bilge. WE did not ski or swim though. Today was just a motor and reliability checkout. I will eventually wire in a new pump Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Auto bilge. One costs about $20. Not good enough. For $2 more you can add an LED indicator light to the dash which will warn you if the bilge pump can't keep up or isn't removing the water. Forget the plug and the pump will not be able to keep up. I recommend getting that installed sooner than later. Unless someone has gone through a boat sinking it is hard to convey the importance of things especially when you haven't had any problems. When I bought the boat it had a manual bilge pump switch. I rant that boat for 5 years with no problems what so ever. Until the stress fracture when SHTF and by not putting a better system in the boat a great day on the lake went bad. The year I finished the rebuild I was itching to get back on the water. I had wanted to put a dual pump in system in but decided just to put a single pump in since all the plumbing and wiring were already there. The engine bolts through the transom didn't seal the first time and water was leading in. The automatic float switch and pump worked great. The first 3 times out and found small little leaks to seal but the pump worked great. Then months later we were out tubing one day and the rope caught the boarding ladder. I didn't think much of it and didn't notice any water being pumped out the bilge. Unbeknownst to me the impeller for the bilge pump had slipped down the shaft and wasn't pumping the water up. I was woken up by my girlfriend asking "why is there water in the boat" followed the rear deck, where we were sleeping, becoming submerged about 1 minute later. Again, everything seemed fine and no major problems, until I did with no warning. I had cut corners and not put in a redundant system and a great day at the lake turned into a terrible day at the lake followed by months of no boating and lots of expenses. At least put the new bilge pump in with an automatic float switch and run a circuit back up to the dash to light an LED when the float switch is tripped. Every boat should have this basic safety device, an idiot light that says "Hey dummy there is a bunch of water in your boat". That $2 LED would have saved me from sinking twice. |
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Quoted: So you cut out the flotation foam and didn't replace it? The volume of water under the floor is enough to make the difference between a partially submerged boat and a boat sinking all the way to the bottom dragging down whatever or whoever is in it. |
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Lol - SWIRE, it's not the Titanic. No foam is fine, particularly if the boat is trailered; if you insist on using foam, I recommend the Corning Styrofoam billets carved into shape to fit, and sealed with epoxy. Typically, I would avoid using plywood at all if the resin is polyester, it is susceptible to absorbing water which eventually finds its way into the plywood. Quoted:
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So you cut out the flotation foam and didn't replace it? The volume of water under the floor is enough to make the difference between a partially submerged boat and a boat sinking all the way to the bottom dragging down whatever or whoever is in it. When I dug all the saturated foam out of that boat it must have weight 600 pounds. Holy crap did it ever perform without all that extra weight ! |
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Quoted: When I dug all the saturated foam out of that boat it must have weight 600 pounds. Holy crap did it ever perform without all that extra weight ! Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: So you cut out the flotation foam and didn't replace it? The volume of water under the floor is enough to make the difference between a partially submerged boat and a boat sinking all the way to the bottom dragging down whatever or whoever is in it. When I dug all the saturated foam out of that boat it must have weight 600 pounds. Holy crap did it ever perform without all that extra weight ! |
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Quoted: For boat owners here. How do you extend your boat life.? The few years it was outside, it had a custom fitted cover on it. Boats are never happy. They rot if left in the sun and want to fall apart and sink if you leave them in the water. |
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I rebuilt a Four Winns like this. Fiberglass cloth with the resin over it. What a pita. It was solid though. Too bad it was I/o. Sold it due to the transom failing. Quoted:
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you are supposed to do fiberglass and epoxy over the MARINE plywood. I rebuilt a Four Winns like this. Fiberglass cloth with the resin over it. What a pita. It was solid though. Too bad it was I/o. Sold it due to the transom failing. Glassing the boat seals it much better than just paint. Fiberglassing is pretty simple to get structural results, more time consuming to get that show room look. You could even get fancy with something like Nidacore instead of plywood to shave weight. The work looks good. |
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I have a '97 Maxum 20' with a V8 I/O. Godamn I hate that boat. Never should have bought an I/O. 2 years ago, I was running full throttle across the lake, and the oil pressure sensor let go. Pumped out all the oil and fried the mains and crankshaft in under a minute. Boat sits for 6 months while I pull the engine, have it rebuilt better than ever, and re-install it. Floor goes soft while it's sitting. My cover leaked. Now, I have a brand new motor and rebuilt outdrive hanging on a rotten boat. Sucks. I really do like the hull and layout of this boat, but I really don't want to spend months and thousands of dollars grinding and cutting fiberglass. |
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What condition were the stringers and transom in? They are also made of wood. When the floor goes the other parts usually go. Did you fiberglass over the plywood? How did you attach the plywood to the boat? What shape was the flotation foam in? What about the bilge pump system? Does it have one and is it on an automatic float switch? My rebuilt boat sank because I pulled a boarding ladder screw out and the automatic bilge pump failed. I added a $2 LED into the dash that is connected to the automatic float switch. That little thing right there would have prevented the sinking because I would have known water was in the bilge. I actually have multi-layer bilge system now and the boat will not sink even if you forget the plug. A YouTube video on that will be below. I have some experience with this. Below is a link to a summary thread on my complete rebuild. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-repair-and-restoration/boat-restoration-building-and-hull-repair/473109-1987-cheetah-196-fish-and-ski-rebuild-project-and-pictures Bottom half of the boat with rotting floor. http://www.afterhourtechs.com/boat/cap_off.jpg Here is what the stringers looked like. They were completely gone which allowed the hull to flex too much creating a stress fracture in the bottom of the boat. http://www.afterhourtechs.com/boat/foam_out.jpg Before and after pictures. http://www.afterhourtechs.com/boat/beforeafter_side.jpg http://www.afterhourtechs.com/boat/beforeafter_front.jpg http://www.afterhourtechs.com/boat/beforeafter_inside.jpg http://www.afterhourtechs.com/boat/boatseats.jpg http://www.afterhourtechs.com/boat/boatleds.jpg Bilge system. Dual pumps connected to an automatic float switch with an LED indicator light in the dash. Second state is a massive pump sitting out of bilge connected by a second float switch which is also connected to an alarm. Total cost is under $300 and provides great peace of mind.  https://youtu.be/TPn14h0ll8Q
Did you do that work or hire it out? I would love to do a full restore on my 1977 aquasport someday. |
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Snort...lets see yours. Quoted:
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In before the boat hating faggots of arfcom. Snort...lets see yours. my two... both made in 1976...just put a different motor on every 10 years or so...top is a 17 ft. boston whaler I bought in 1990...bottom is a 18 ft .McKee from 10 years ago ,built by whaler guys that split off from the company...both are tanks of the boating world and cannot sink...blow it up and all that's left will still float...I run the piss out of both boats...no carpet...you can butcher cattle in these boys and just hose um out... each will top out at 40+ and have a 28 and 32 gallon fuel tank...my bug out boats on tampa bay...I will tow one with the other if need be...  
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my two... both made in 1976...just put a different motor on every 10 years or so...top is a 17 ft. boston whaler I bought in 1990...bottom is a 18 ft .McKee from 10 years ago ,built by whaler guys that split off from the company...both are tanks of the boating world and cannot sink...blow it up and all that's left will still float...I run the piss out of both boats...no carpet...you can butcher cattle in these boys and just hose um out... each will top out at 40+ and have a 28 and 32 gallon fuel tank...my bug out boats on tampa bay...I will tow one with the other if need be... http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn240/dneal33/dock001-1.jpgQuoted:
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In before the boat hating faggots of arfcom. Snort...lets see yours. my two... both made in 1976...just put a different motor on every 10 years or so...top is a 17 ft. boston whaler I bought in 1990...bottom is a 18 ft .McKee from 10 years ago ,built by whaler guys that split off from the company...both are tanks of the boating world and cannot sink...blow it up and all that's left will still float...I run the piss out of both boats...no carpet...you can butcher cattle in these boys and just hose um out... each will top out at 40+ and have a 28 and 32 gallon fuel tank...my bug out boats on tampa bay...I will tow one with the other if need be... http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn240/dneal33/dock001-1.jpgCan we be friends? |
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Quoted: Yeah, that stuff you pour in as a liquid that expands into foam, is like a sponge - even the poly tooling board you can buy ($$$$) is the same way. If I were planning on keeping the boat for a while, I'd use a prefab sandwich panel with a plastic honeycomb core. Definitely costs more, but I wouldn't have to worry about rot and the maintenance time/labor. Another alternative is G10 fiberglass panel. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: So you cut out the flotation foam and didn't replace it? The volume of water under the floor is enough to make the difference between a partially submerged boat and a boat sinking all the way to the bottom dragging down whatever or whoever is in it. When I dug all the saturated foam out of that boat it must have weight 600 pounds. Holy crap did it ever perform without all that extra weight ! They make open cell foam and closed cell foam. If you buy the proper marine grade foam it will be closed cells and it does not absorb water. It can still get water trapped inside but the foam itself won't "act like sponge". |
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Quoted: Did you do that work or hire it out? I would love to do a full restore on my 1977 aquasport someday. I did all the work myself. I'm still amazed at how well the paint job turned out. The paint was actually applied with a roller. It's a special two part marine paint that sort of self levels after you roll it on. |
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Quoted: I rebuilt a Four Winns like this. Fiberglass cloth with the resin over it. What a pita. It was solid though. Too bad it was I/o. Sold it due to the transom failing. Quoted: Quoted: you are supposed to do fiberglass and epoxy over the MARINE plywood. I rebuilt a Four Winns like this. Fiberglass cloth with the resin over it. What a pita. It was solid though. Too bad it was I/o. Sold it due to the transom failing. I actually enjoyed that part. Maybe because after all the effort I put into gutting and prepping the boat it was first step towards putting it all back together. The plywood was first coated in resin and then coated again when the heavy layer of woven fiberglass was put down on top of it. The white coating is a basement wall water block which was applied and allowed to dry before the I glued the carpet back down.    |
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Can we be friends? Quoted:
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In before the boat hating faggots of arfcom. Snort...lets see yours. my two... both made in 1976...just put a different motor on every 10 years or so...top is a 17 ft. boston whaler I bought in 1990...bottom is a 18 ft .McKee from 10 years ago ,built by whaler guys that split off from the company...both are tanks of the boating world and cannot sink...blow it up and all that's left will still float...I run the piss out of both boats...no carpet...you can butcher cattle in these boys and just hose um out... each will top out at 40+ and have a 28 and 32 gallon fuel tank...my bug out boats on tampa bay...I will tow one with the other if need be... http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn240/dneal33/dock001-1.jpgCan we be friends?
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you are supposed to do fiberglass and epoxy over the MARINE plywood. That is how I did mine. Cut all the old floor, stringers and transom out with a grinder, sawzall, and multi cut tool. Grind smooth, rebuild transom and stringers out of marine plywood coated in fiberglass and epoxy resin. Then install the floor, also coated in fiberglass and epoxy resin. I will burn that son of a bitch before I will ever do that again. 
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why doesn't ARFCOM have a boating sub forum? As to the OP, I have no idea, I store my boat indoors 8 months of the year. If you're going to re-carpet it, I'd go with snap in carpet that can be removed/cleaned after outings. Unfortunately it looks like the idea was shot down. The only one we have of for fishing boats. Not all of us fish. We need an ARfcom Navy forum. I mean, The Hull Truth is a good forum but I prefer to hang out here. |
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Unfortunately it looks like the idea was shot down. The only one we have of for fishing boats. Not all of us fish. We need an ARfcom Navy forum. I mean, The Hull Truth is a good forum but I prefer to hang out here. Quoted:
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why doesn't ARFCOM have a boating sub forum? As to the OP, I have no idea, I store my boat indoors 8 months of the year. If you're going to re-carpet it, I'd go with snap in carpet that can be removed/cleaned after outings. Unfortunately it looks like the idea was shot down. The only one we have of for fishing boats. Not all of us fish. We need an ARfcom Navy forum. I mean, The Hull Truth is a good forum but I prefer to hang out here. the hull truth is good but don't start a thread about engine brands. 
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