[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Machining copper. (Page 1 of 3)
Posted: 9/29/2015 12:25:55 PM EDT
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Good god. I had heard horror stories but this is ridiculous.
If anyone is thinking of doing it, run! Check yourself into a mental hospital. I was most surprised at how abrasive it seems to be. |
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For the girly men here like myself without machining tools, can you please elaborate on what is makes it tough to machine? Just gummy. It does not like to break a chip, and the tool likes to dig in. I figured it would be like aluminum but I was way off. |
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For the girly men here like myself without machining tools, can you please elaborate on what is makes it tough to machine? it's kind gooey. tool material, feed, speed, and cutting coolant have to be right, or it's a cluster. I watched some guys at Bell Helicopter tieing themselves in knots trying to milll some big chunks of pure copper. |
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HAHAHA
Virtually no cutting tool you buy is ground for machining copper. Drill bits are the worst. Copper machines very well. It simply requires the right tool edge geometry. All of the red metals machine differently. The exact alloy you are working with determines the geometry / speeds / feeds. . |
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I might cut a little here and there 
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y36/Nightdriver/2012-09-13_09-51-07_795_zps6ec2207b.jpg I'm not quite to that point. 
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Machining copper with tooling meant for steel or aluminum does suck. With correctly shaped tooling it's actually very pleasant. It's such a great conductor of heat that it's very hard to overheat the work and you can achive very high MRRs.
A friend is a process engineer for a large plasma torch manufacturer. He has some amazing stories about the production process behind their torch tips and other consumables. They're all copper and have to hold some extraordinary tolerances on very small features, and they make them in huge quantities. So it's possible, it's just expensive to do right. |
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I might cut a little here and there
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y36/Nightdriver/2012-09-13_09-51-07_795_zps6ec2207b.jpg And here I thought I was bad about cleaning up chips.
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And here I thought I was bad about cleaning up chips. Quoted:
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I might cut a little here and there
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y36/Nightdriver/2012-09-13_09-51-07_795_zps6ec2207b.jpg And here I thought I was bad about cleaning up chips. Those are the pot scrubbers he's ripping apart to make it look like he's making progress. |
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Quoted: Those are the pot scrubbers he's ripping apart to make it look like he's making progress. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I might cut a little here and there http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y36/Nightdriver/2012-09-13_09-51-07_795_zps6ec2207b.jpg And here I thought I was bad about cleaning up chips. Those are the pot scrubbers he's ripping apart to make it look like he's making progress. |
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I have a bar of copper at home. I tried to mill a part out of it just for giggles. WRONG. Stuff is like bubblegum. I have also heard that milk is a good cutting fluid, but I never tried it. I have heard that too. I bet that would smell wonderful after a day in this temperature. 
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Quoted: I have heard that too. I bet that would smell wonderful after a day in this temperature. Quoted: Quoted: I have a bar of copper at home. I tried to mill a part out of it just for giggles. WRONG. Stuff is like bubblegum. I have also heard that milk is a good cutting fluid, but I never tried it. I have heard that too. I bet that would smell wonderful after a day in this temperature. That is the main reason I never tried milk. The smell of sour milk in a small shop...  I was thinking it would be neat to build a bolt together AR lower, only using copper and rivets to make it look steampunk. That idea was quickly rejected after my first try. |
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That is the main reason I never tried milk. The smell of sour milk in a small shop...
I was thinking it would be neat to build a bolt together AR lower, only using copper and rivets to make it look steampunk. That idea was quickly rejected after my first try. Quoted:
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I have a bar of copper at home. I tried to mill a part out of it just for giggles. WRONG. Stuff is like bubblegum. I have also heard that milk is a good cutting fluid, but I never tried it. I have heard that too. I bet that would smell wonderful after a day in this temperature. That is the main reason I never tried milk. The smell of sour milk in a small shop...
I was thinking it would be neat to build a bolt together AR lower, only using copper and rivets to make it look steampunk. That idea was quickly rejected after my first try. I think doing that with aluminum and then plating it with copper would be better. |
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Quoted: I think doing that with aluminum and then plating it with copper would be better. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I have a bar of copper at home. I tried to mill a part out of it just for giggles. WRONG. Stuff is like bubblegum. I have also heard that milk is a good cutting fluid, but I never tried it. I have heard that too. I bet that would smell wonderful after a day in this temperature. That is the main reason I never tried milk. The smell of sour milk in a small shop... I was thinking it would be neat to build a bolt together AR lower, only using copper and rivets to make it look steampunk. That idea was quickly rejected after my first try. I think doing that with aluminum and then plating it with copper would be better. Aluminum won't plate. I think copper would be strong enough, if not I could use brass. Just a crazy idea I had that I will never get around to. |
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My first thoughts on it were sharp, free cutting inserts. High rpms and low feeds. might even try withought coolant for od work. Fairly high speeds and low feeds works well. My main problem was when I first started boring. The streamers and chips ball up and the boring bar jumps all over. After the hole was opened up it was not too bad. This tiny ass boring bar (1" boring 6" deep) is not rigid enough to take a decent cut. |
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I might cut a little here and there
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y36/Nightdriver/2012-09-13_09-51-07_795_zps6ec2207b.jpg Damn, what do you make? |
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Fairly high speeds and low feeds works well. My main problem was when I first started boring. The streamers and chips ball up and the boring bar jumps all over. After the hole was opened up it was not too bad. This tiny ass boring bar (1" boring 6" deep) is not rigid enough to take a decent cut. Quoted:
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My first thoughts on it were sharp, free cutting inserts. High rpms and low feeds. might even try withought coolant for od work. Fairly high speeds and low feeds works well. My main problem was when I first started boring. The streamers and chips ball up and the boring bar jumps all over. After the hole was opened up it was not too bad. This tiny ass boring bar (1" boring 6" deep) is not rigid enough to take a decent cut. Based upon the other post's, i'd consider adding a larger drill or multiple sized drills to run before finish boring minimizing stock removal to be done with the boring bar. Upsize the boring bar if possible with added clearance. Through coolant hp if possible. Might have to add a M0 to pull chips or something. |
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I hate machining brass, copper, and other soft and gummy metals, but I'd sure as shit rather work with them than 718 any day. Inconel is the devil.
At least bronzes and copper alloys can be worked fairly easily with the right tool geometry. Inconel... just hates being machined. Really nice once it's done though, tough and lasts for a long while. |
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Based upon the other post's, i'd consider adding a larger drill or multiple sized drills to run before finish boring minimizing stock removal to be done with the boring bar. Upsize the boring bar if possible with added clearance. Through coolant hp if possible. Might have to add a M0 to pull chips or something. Quoted:
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My first thoughts on it were sharp, free cutting inserts. High rpms and low feeds. might even try withought coolant for od work. Fairly high speeds and low feeds works well. My main problem was when I first started boring. The streamers and chips ball up and the boring bar jumps all over. After the hole was opened up it was not too bad. This tiny ass boring bar (1" boring 6" deep) is not rigid enough to take a decent cut. Based upon the other post's, i'd consider adding a larger drill or multiple sized drills to run before finish boring minimizing stock removal to be done with the boring bar. Upsize the boring bar if possible with added clearance. Through coolant hp if possible. Might have to add a M0 to pull chips or something. M0 sounds like g-code. I am using a Chinese 13"40" manual lathe.
This boring bar was $400, drill was $200. I don't see any more tools in the budget. 
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M0 sounds like g-code. I am using a Chinese 13"40" manual lathe.
This boring bar was $400, drill was $200. I don't see any more tools in the budget. Quoted:
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My first thoughts on it were sharp, free cutting inserts. High rpms and low feeds. might even try withought coolant for od work. Fairly high speeds and low feeds works well. My main problem was when I first started boring. The streamers and chips ball up and the boring bar jumps all over. After the hole was opened up it was not too bad. This tiny ass boring bar (1" boring 6" deep) is not rigid enough to take a decent cut. Based upon the other post's, i'd consider adding a larger drill or multiple sized drills to run before finish boring minimizing stock removal to be done with the boring bar. Upsize the boring bar if possible with added clearance. Through coolant hp if possible. Might have to add a M0 to pull chips or something. M0 sounds like g-code. I am using a Chinese 13"40" manual lathe.
This boring bar was $400, drill was $200. I don't see any more tools in the budget. I always warn people who want to get into machining as a hobby, the lathe or mill is the cheap part. The tools are what really gut your bank account. |
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M0 sounds like g-code. I am using a Chinese 13"40" manual lathe.
This boring bar was $400, drill was $200. I don't see any more tools in the budget. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
My first thoughts on it were sharp, free cutting inserts. High rpms and low feeds. might even try withought coolant for od work. Fairly high speeds and low feeds works well. My main problem was when I first started boring. The streamers and chips ball up and the boring bar jumps all over. After the hole was opened up it was not too bad. This tiny ass boring bar (1" boring 6" deep) is not rigid enough to take a decent cut. Based upon the other post's, i'd consider adding a larger drill or multiple sized drills to run before finish boring minimizing stock removal to be done with the boring bar. Upsize the boring bar if possible with added clearance. Through coolant hp if possible. Might have to add a M0 to pull chips or something. M0 sounds like g-code. I am using a Chinese 13"40" manual lathe.
This boring bar was $400, drill was $200. I don't see any more tools in the budget. well thats better than this $650 drill body with $105 insert
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I hate machining brass, copper, and other soft and gummy metals, but I'd sure as shit rather work with them than 718 any day. Inconel is the devil.
At least bronzes and copper alloys can be worked fairly easily with the right tool geometry. Inconel... just hates being machined. Really nice once it's done though, tough and lasts for a long while. I enjoy machining brass. This was wormgear with a 4140 core and a brass ring. 
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I always warn people who want to get into machining as a hobby, the lathe or mill is the cheap part. The tools are what really gut your bank account. Quoted:
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My first thoughts on it were sharp, free cutting inserts. High rpms and low feeds. might even try withought coolant for od work. Fairly high speeds and low feeds works well. My main problem was when I first started boring. The streamers and chips ball up and the boring bar jumps all over. After the hole was opened up it was not too bad. This tiny ass boring bar (1" boring 6" deep) is not rigid enough to take a decent cut. Based upon the other post's, i'd consider adding a larger drill or multiple sized drills to run before finish boring minimizing stock removal to be done with the boring bar. Upsize the boring bar if possible with added clearance. Through coolant hp if possible. Might have to add a M0 to pull chips or something. M0 sounds like g-code. I am using a Chinese 13"40" manual lathe.
This boring bar was $400, drill was $200. I don't see any more tools in the budget. I always warn people who want to get into machining as a hobby, the lathe or mill is the cheap part. The tools are what really gut your bank account. Oh I know the costs.
I spent 10 years running manual lathes, programming CNC lathes, running gear hobbers and shapers, broaching machines, and a little mill work (mainly key ways and bolt circles) Most of that was using 4140, brass, cast iron, and nylatron plastic. This is my first time with copper. My budget for the lathe, bandsaw, and tooling was what the local machine shop wanted to charge. I was even able to get the material with that amount. |
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I might cut a little here and there
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y36/Nightdriver/2012-09-13_09-51-07_795_zps6ec2207b.jpg Holy hell |
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Did a lot of beryllium copper for mold cavity inserts, a lot of small deep holes, it sucked. For the important stuff we used solid carbide that we would grind as needed. That's another thing I might add to the list. Not solid carbide but cemented carbide. Then I need a new stone for the bench grinder.
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Quoted: Nickel/magnesium/chromium alloy? Quoted: Quoted: You should try class 7 invar or super invar. Nickel/magnesium/chromium alloy? Starting a repeat job took a week to rough, week to semi finish and 2 weeks to finish |
| We get a job about once per year for some parts made from pure copper. They are small turned parts that also require drilling and boring as well as some OD steps and grooves. The quantity is sufficient to justify swapping out the soluble oil coolant for a straight oil for those parts. If you have many parts to make you may want to consider some Hangsterfer's Missile Lube, they have other formulations of straight oils but we chose this one due to it being chlorine and sulfur free, a requirement for these parts. Many moons ago I had to turn a lot of tellurium copper on an old turret lathe, we used black cutting oil mixed with mineral spirits. The stench would permeate the pores in the skin, I don't recommend that blend anymore primarily because of the health hazards but also due to the lowered flash point of the oil. |
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Quoted: well thats better than this $650 drill body with $105 insert http://www.iscar.com/Media/img/SumoChamFlat13-1.jpg Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: My first thoughts on it were sharp, free cutting inserts. High rpms and low feeds. might even try withought coolant for od work. Fairly high speeds and low feeds works well. My main problem was when I first started boring. The streamers and chips ball up and the boring bar jumps all over. After the hole was opened up it was not too bad. This tiny ass boring bar (1" boring 6" deep) is not rigid enough to take a decent cut. Based upon the other post's, i'd consider adding a larger drill or multiple sized drills to run before finish boring minimizing stock removal to be done with the boring bar. Upsize the boring bar if possible with added clearance. Through coolant hp if possible. Might have to add a M0 to pull chips or something. M0 sounds like g-code. I am using a Chinese 13"40" manual lathe. This boring bar was $400, drill was $200. I don't see any more tools in the budget. well thats better than this $650 drill body with $105 insert http://www.iscar.com/Media/img/SumoChamFlat13-1.jpg Pfft. Pocket change. We have a couple carts full of various sizes of these  |