Posted: 8/26/2015 10:08:56 AM EDT
|
I am looking to do a DIY PEX install. I've been looking at the different systems, and I've read some good things on SharkBite. However, I feel as though I have read here before that Sharkbite sucks, and to avoid it like the plague.
So, any yahs or nahs or that system? When I install the copper to PEX adapters, should I get the ones that you have to sweat on to your copper, or will the stab in connectors be okay? Also, is their any preference to the brand of PEX you use? I know some are considerably more than others, do they offer anything more? Thanks for your help |
|
I'm just a DIYer myself and redid my entire basement in PEX after ripping out a combination of galv., and copper pipe. I have used the sharkbite connectors in the past and they worked great for me for quick, minor repairs. I would not use them if you were working on a large project, the cost would be huge. A 1/2" sweat to 1/2" pex fitting is about .50, the same sharkbite fitting is 5-6 bucks.
I used the crimp ring style with the bolt cutter like tool and it worked really well. The pex was just what Menards had in stock and I had no problems with it. |
|
Quoted:
I'm just a DIYer myself and redid my entire basement in PEX after ripping out a combination of galv., and copper pipe. I have used the sharkbite connectors in the past and they worked great for me for quick, minor repairs. I would not use them if you were working on a large project, the cost would be huge. A 1/2" sweat to 1/2" pex fitting is about .50, the same sharkbite fitting is 5-6 bucks. I used the crimp ring style with the bolt cutter like tool and it worked really well. The pex was just what Menards had in stock and I had no problems with it. Yup, crimp style here too. I used what I could get at Home Depot. Redid my 1950's house which had a mixture of copper and galvanized that was about rusted full.....Very happy and no leaks after 4 years now... |
My MIL had two different in-wall sharkbite fittings slowly leaking. That was quite the mess! I personally would never use them in an enclosed, difficult to access, or indoor location. Thats pretty limiting  . I have to make a trip up to her soon to do some drywall repair from that whole mess.
I dont think code even allows them in walls in many places, but tell that to someone standing in the home depot aisle. |
|
I use pex all the time (Wirsbo). I like that brand because the fittings are full size internal diameter unlike most of the other brands like Propex/Questpex etc.
Stay away from any kind of self tapping/ piercing/ saddle valves. A sharkbite adapter may be useful because you won't need to drain the copper line completely but I've never used one in my life. I always just solder a pex to copper coupling onto the pipe. |
|
I redid my 1951 house with galvanized steel this spring with pex, I used the copper crimp rings. Cut out and installed in one day minus drywall work.
I just followed the original tree branch system they used due to the original house being only 750sf no reason to do a manifold system. |
|
Quoted:
I use pex all the time (Wirsbo). I like that brand because the fittings are full size internal diameter unlike most of the other brands like Propex/Questpex etc. Stay away from any kind of self tapping/ piercing/ saddle valves. A sharkbite adapter may be useful because you won't need to drain the copper line completely but I've never used one in my life. I always just solder a pex to copper coupling onto the pipe. Can the tools for the wirsbro system be rented? My heating system is 70 year old black iron and radiators, and I'm giving serious consideration to replacing the basement portion with pex so I can zone it easier. I don't like the reduced diameter fitting systems. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
|
Quoted:
I use pex all the time (Wirsbo). I like that brand because the fittings are full size internal diameter unlike most of the other brands like Propex/Questpex etc. Stay away from any kind of self tapping/ piercing/ saddle valves. A sharkbite adapter may be useful because you won't need to drain the copper line completely but I've never used one in my life. I always just solder a pex to copper coupling onto the pipe. Wirsbo and Uponor are the two PEX brands I would recommend. |
|
Quoted:
I use pex all the time (Wirsbo). I like that brand because the fittings are full size internal diameter unlike most of the other brands like Propex/Questpex etc Wirsbo and Uponor are the two PEX brands I would recommend. Pretty sure they are the same company actually. Uponer Wirsbo. At least that's what the catalog is labeled. I only see them at plumbing supply houses so I don't know about renting them. A ring/ collar is placed around the end of the pipe, then an expander tool expands the whole thing to fit over your fitting. You only have a few seconds to make the connection once you remove the expander tool. |
|
I didn't read any of the responses above, but I will tell you this. I just had my whole house replumbed, and I asked about shark bite fittings.
The plumber told me this. Shark bite fitting are good for DIY above the floor, and are "OK" but not as good as copper crimps. He used the copper crimps and suggested if I ever do any work I use them as well. Just what I was told. |
|
Quoted:
<---- Pro here Buy the proper crimp tool. Sweat pex adapters to copper if possible. Avoid sharkbites if you can. I use pex all the time. If you do it right, you are fine I've used up to 2" pex Why are you saying to avoid sharkbites? Can you point to personal examples of them failing? Can you point to some industry info to support your statement? I see people piss on things or pan things while offering no evidence. I just replaced 50% of the lines in my house with PEX and Sharkbites. Not a single issue as long as the PEX was cut square. Sharkbites are super expensive when compared to copper fightings but hard to beat for their simplicity. |
|
I did my parents whole house from the foundation up in pex with shark bite fittings. Tore out galvanized and had pex in and working by dinner time. Not a single leak. It's been leak free for over a year. (Most of it was above a drop ceiling, so leaks would be noticeable quickly)
I've done a couple other small jobs with it too. As long as the cuts are square, I think you'll be ok. I'd still try to keep connectors outside of the walls if you can though, just because I'm paranoid like that. |
|
Quoted: Why are you saying to avoid sharkbites? Can you point to personal examples of them failing? Can you point to some industry info to support your statement? I see people piss on things or pan things while offering no evidence. I just replaced 50% of the lines in my house with PEX and Sharkbites. Not a single issue as long as the PEX was cut square. Sharkbites are super expensive when compared to copper fightings but hard to beat for their simplicity. Quoted: Quoted: <---- Pro here Buy the proper crimp tool. Sweat pex adapters to copper if possible. Avoid sharkbites if you can. I use pex all the time. If you do it right, you are fine I've used up to 2" pex Why are you saying to avoid sharkbites? Can you point to personal examples of them failing? Can you point to some industry info to support your statement? I see people piss on things or pan things while offering no evidence. I just replaced 50% of the lines in my house with PEX and Sharkbites. Not a single issue as long as the PEX was cut square. Sharkbites are super expensive when compared to copper fightings but hard to beat for their simplicity. I have seen many of them fail, and remove them every chance i get. The majority have been from piping not supported and the fittings pull of the pipe, also they will not stand up to frezzing temperatures like crimp pes fittings will. Come on dude are you really going to try and compare a o ring and some metal teeth to a sweated copper joint or a crimp pex fitting? |
| Used pex and sharkbites installing remote camps in Alaska/Arctic. We used and reused the fuck out of the fittings and never had issues. 95% of the fresh water plumbing was nothing but pex and sharkbite an the other 5% was copper using sharkbite (yes, sharkbite works on copper too) at the water heaters. |
|
Wirsbo is awesome if you can get the tool, copper crimp rings are plenty good if you can't. Sharkbite press on fitting will work OK but even the package says not to use them in inaccessible areas. I for sure wouldn't use one in a wall. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
|
I did my whole new construction house in PEX using the Apollo fittings, crimp rings (copper crimp, NOT the stainless squeeze rings), and tools from Lowes. I ran the pipe so there were no connections in the walls other than at the copper stub outs. I only used sharkbite fittings at the water heater connections to the manifold. No problems so far, and I really like that I don't have many fittings inside walls. |
|
Quoted:
Can the tools for the wirsbro system be rented? My heating system is 70 year old black iron and radiators, and I'm giving serious consideration to replacing the basement portion with pex so I can zone it easier. I don't like the reduced diameter fitting systems. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Quoted:
Quoted:
I use pex all the time (Wirsbo). I like that brand because the fittings are full size internal diameter unlike most of the other brands like Propex/Questpex etc. Stay away from any kind of self tapping/ piercing/ saddle valves. A sharkbite adapter may be useful because you won't need to drain the copper line completely but I've never used one in my life. I always just solder a pex to copper coupling onto the pipe. Can the tools for the wirsbro system be rented? My heating system is 70 year old black iron and radiators, and I'm giving serious consideration to replacing the basement portion with pex so I can zone it easier. I don't like the reduced diameter fitting systems. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile You need to use hePEX if you do it, it has an oxygen barrier on the outside. Typical pex allows oxygen to permeate and all the iron/steel in your system will rust out within a matter of months. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
|
Quoted:
Why are you saying to avoid sharkbites? Can you point to personal examples of them failing? Can you point to some industry info to support your statement? I see people piss on things or pan things while offering no evidence. I just replaced 50% of the lines in my house with PEX and Sharkbites. Not a single issue as long as the PEX was cut square. Sharkbites are super expensive when compared to copper fightings but hard to beat for their simplicity. Quoted:
Quoted:
<---- Pro here Buy the proper crimp tool. Sweat pex adapters to copper if possible. Avoid sharkbites if you can. I use pex all the time. If you do it right, you are fine I've used up to 2" pex Why are you saying to avoid sharkbites? Can you point to personal examples of them failing? Can you point to some industry info to support your statement? I see people piss on things or pan things while offering no evidence. I just replaced 50% of the lines in my house with PEX and Sharkbites. Not a single issue as long as the PEX was cut square. Sharkbites are super expensive when compared to copper fightings but hard to beat for their simplicity. I can point to me, and I'm in the industry. I do this for a living. I've seen sharkbites fail. Plus, they are expensive as all hell. Sharkbite 90 $8 Pex 90 $1.50 sheap crimper $30 rings .30c So after 5-6 fitting, it pays for itself anyway. |
|
I went with the Apollo crimp system that Lowes sells. The clamps look well made. They have all the various brass fittings and the crimp tools. I bought the one handed tool for $50, but they have cheaper ones.
I've had to remove a few clamps, so I can tell you they are on there well! It is nice to be able to run up the road and get anything I need, even in the evenings... |
|
I replaced all the old polybutelene with upornor and it worked sweet.
I watched ebay and got a manual expander for less then half. I bought everything I needed from Supplyhouse I went with uponor because you don't have to worry about the band coming loose. You will have no choice but to sweat the copper to pex transition but honestly that's the only right way to do it anyway. Good luck. |
|
Quoted:
I replaced all the old polybutelene with upornor and it worked sweet. I watched ebay and got a manual expander for less then half. I bought everything I needed from Supplyhouse I went with uponor because you don't have to worry about the band coming loose. You will have no choice but to sweat the copper to pex transition but honestly that's the only right way to do it anyway. Good luck. I like the uponor as well. I use the Milwaukee cordless pex tool. |
|
Quoted:
Tell me more about pex. Is it rodent proof? Freeze resistant? Will I get the same volume as 1/2" copper pipes or do I need to run bigger pex? I've got an old pier and beam house that's gonna need some work at some point. I was just thinking about running pvc. Make sure you use cpvc instead of pvc for hot and cold. |
|
Quoted:
I can point to me, and I'm in the industry. I do this for a living. I've seen sharkbites fail. Plus, they are expensive as all hell. Sharkbite 90 $8 Pex 90 $1.50 sheap crimper $30 rings .30c So after 5-6 fitting, it pays for itself anyway. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
<---- Pro here Buy the proper crimp tool. Sweat pex adapters to copper if possible. Avoid sharkbites if you can. I use pex all the time. If you do it right, you are fine I've used up to 2" pex Why are you saying to avoid sharkbites? Can you point to personal examples of them failing? Can you point to some industry info to support your statement? I see people piss on things or pan things while offering no evidence. I just replaced 50% of the lines in my house with PEX and Sharkbites. Not a single issue as long as the PEX was cut square. Sharkbites are super expensive when compared to copper fightings but hard to beat for their simplicity. I can point to me, and I'm in the industry. I do this for a living. I've seen sharkbites fail. Plus, they are expensive as all hell. Sharkbite 90 $8 Pex 90 $1.50 sheap crimper $30 rings .30c So after 5-6 fitting, it pays for itself anyway. +1. This, the only time they fail it when the installer fails to follow simple instructions. |
|
Quoted:
WHAT? Define tight. Is that all types of pex? Quoted:
Quoted:
Be careful about the radius of your bends in the pex. If they are too sharp, they will crack after a few years. WHAT? Define tight. Is that all types of pex? I can't define it, its going to depend on how flexible the pex is, and the diameter of the piece. You'll have to go by feel. If it seems to sharp, it probably is. Anchors may help the issue. |