[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Grade This Drywall Mudding Job (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 8/17/2015 6:03:36 PM EDT
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Hi all,
I had a contractor out to my home today to mud some drywall for a bathroom remodeling project. He did a first cut today and is coming back tomorrow to finish the mud job. I know very little about this stuff; to anyone with an eye for mudding I would appreciate your opinion of the quality of the mud job thus far. Thanks! Jimmy PICS |
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Looks like a typical first coat. A little rougher than I'm used to seeing but serviceable. Hes going to finish it tomorrow? For smooth wall I like 3 coats minimum. 5 coats, 4 coats and then a putty coat for a professional job. I always tell the customer a week on taping. |
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Quoted: Looks like a typical first coat. A little rougher than I'm used to seeing but serviceable. Hes going to finish it tomorrow? For smooth wall I like 3 coats minimum. 5 coats, 4 coats and then a putty coat for a professional job. I always tell the customer a week on taping. |
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mud looks fine for a first coat. its not importamt how it looks now. its only important how it looks when its painted and finished.
i have thousands in drywall tools, flat boxes, tapers, pumps, angle heads. now for the cement backer board. it wicks water further than sheetrock and grows molds just as much. many idiots mistakenly believe its waterproof and a good surface for tile in wet areas. it is not, and should be waterproofed with some type of membrane. paint on like redguard, or a film like kerdi. i suspect that if your contractor knew this, he would have just applied kerdi over sheetrock, since thats easier and faster than dealing with cement backerboard. my assumption is that he doesnt know any better. i've ripped out more failed bathroom tile than i care to think about. much of it on bare cement backerboard. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Quoted: My guys do a bathroom like that in 1/2 a day with hot mud, including the durock seams with thinset, and texture on the rest. Quoted: Quoted: Looks like a typical first coat. A little rougher than I'm used to seeing but serviceable. Hes going to finish it tomorrow? For smooth wall I like 3 coats minimum. 5 coats, 4 coats and then a putty coat for a professional job. I always tell the customer a week on taping. I will only do that if I have to. The tapers I use are usually pretty busy so they hit it and off to the next job. I like the work they do so I will wait. |
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I worked as a painter to pay the bills when I was younger. One year I got on with a drywall finishing crew and over time I became a descent mudder. Years later I was in dire sorts financially and picked up a job painting again. The owner of the company went around asking everyone if they knew how to mud. I was silent, I would rather paint than mud, these three fucking rooms at this commercial job. Well I was the lowest man on the totem pole so he assigned me to the job. So I went in there to knock it out as quickly as possible. After a short time I had made some progress and he came in to see where I was at and how I was doing. He seen my work and my progress and says, so you never mudded before, huh? Shook his head and walked off. At the end of the day he told me I was fired. He was pissed that "I had lied to him". Later, motherfucker! |
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Quoted: mud looks fine for a first coat. its not importamt how it looks now. its only important how it looks when its painted and finished. i have thousands in drywall tools, flat boxes, tapers, pumps, angle heads. now for the cement backer board. it wicks water further than sheetrock and grows molds just as much. many idiots mistakenly believe its waterproof and a good surface for tile in wet areas. it is not, and should be waterproofed with some type of membrane. paint on like redguard, or a film like kerdi. i suspect that if your contractor knew this, he would have just applied kerdi over sheetrock, since thats easier and faster than dealing with cement backerboard. my assumption is that he doesnt know any better. i've ripped out more failed bathroom tile than i care to think about. much of it on bare cement backerboard. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Lol, we call them the kerdi koolaid drinkers. Have you priced kerdi products lately? I'll stick to durock, I havent had a shower with durock fail yet in 25 years. Tape the seams/screw holes with thinset, then hydroban and it will last for 30 years(provided the tile is installed proper) |
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Quoted: Lol, we call them the kerdi koolaid drinkers. Have you priced kerdi products lately? I'll stick to durock, I havent had a shower with durock fail yet in 25 years. Tape the seams/screw holes with thinset, then hydroban and it will last for 30 years(provided the tile is installed proper) Quoted: Quoted: mud looks fine for a first coat. its not importamt how it looks now. its only important how it looks when its painted and finished. i have thousands in drywall tools, flat boxes, tapers, pumps, angle heads. now for the cement backer board. it wicks water further than sheetrock and grows molds just as much. many idiots mistakenly believe its waterproof and a good surface for tile in wet areas. it is not, and should be waterproofed with some type of membrane. paint on like redguard, or a film like kerdi. i suspect that if your contractor knew this, he would have just applied kerdi over sheetrock, since thats easier and faster than dealing with cement backerboard. my assumption is that he doesnt know any better. i've ripped out more failed bathroom tile than i care to think about. much of it on bare cement backerboard. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Lol, we call them the kerdi koolaid drinkers. Have you priced kerdi products lately? I'll stick to durock, I havent had a shower with durock fail yet in 25 years. Tape the seams/screw holes with thinset, then hydroban and it will last for 30 years(provided the tile is installed proper) Im a GC (average $500-$1500 sq. ft. interior residental) I'd be shown the curb if I used gyp in a wet area, barrier or not. Cement Board with Laticrete 9235 all the way. |
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Quoted: Im a GC (average $500-$1500 sq. ft. interior residental) I'd be shown the curb if I used gyp in a wet area, barrier or not. Cement Board with Laticrete 9235 all the way. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: mud looks fine for a first coat. its not importamt how it looks now. its only important how it looks when its painted and finished. i have thousands in drywall tools, flat boxes, tapers, pumps, angle heads. now for the cement backer board. it wicks water further than sheetrock and grows molds just as much. many idiots mistakenly believe its waterproof and a good surface for tile in wet areas. it is not, and should be waterproofed with some type of membrane. paint on like redguard, or a film like kerdi. i suspect that if your contractor knew this, he would have just applied kerdi over sheetrock, since thats easier and faster than dealing with cement backerboard. my assumption is that he doesnt know any better. i've ripped out more failed bathroom tile than i care to think about. much of it on bare cement backerboard. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Lol, we call them the kerdi koolaid drinkers. Have you priced kerdi products lately? I'll stick to durock, I havent had a shower with durock fail yet in 25 years. Tape the seams/screw holes with thinset, then hydroban and it will last for 30 years(provided the tile is installed proper) Im a GC (average $500-$1500 sq. ft. interior residental) I'd be shown the curb if I used gyp in a wet area, barrier or not. Cement Board with Laticrete 9235 all the way. 500-1500 a sq ft? What do you build, sheds out of marble with gold siding on a titanium foundation? |
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Quoted:
I worked as a painter to pay the bills when I was younger. One year I got on with a drywall finishing crew and over time I became a descent mudder. Years later I was in dire sorts financially and picked up a job painting again. The owner of the company went around asking everyone if they knew how to mud. I was silent, I would rather paint than mud, these three fucking rooms at this commercial job. Well I was the lowest man on the totem pole so he assigned me to the job. So I went in there to knock it out as quickly as possible. After a short time I had made some progress and he came in to see where I was at and how I was doing. He seen my work and my progress and says, so you never mudded before, huh? Shook his head and walked off. At the end of the day he told me I was fired. He was pissed that "I had lied to him". Later, motherfucker! So ol' boy needs a good mudder, finds he has one, and he fires him? Talk about cutting off your nose to spite your face... |
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Quoted: I worked as a painter to pay the bills when I was younger. One year I got on with a drywall finishing crew and over time I became a descent mudder. Years later I was in dire sorts financially and picked up a job painting again. The owner of the company went around asking everyone if they knew how to mud. I was silent, I would rather paint than mud, these three fucking rooms at this commercial job. Well I was the lowest man on the totem pole so he assigned me to the job. So I went in there to knock it out as quickly as possible. After a short time I had made some progress and he came in to see where I was at and how I was doing. He seen my work and my progress and says, so you never mudded before, huh? Shook his head and walked off. At the end of the day he told me I was fired. He was pissed that "I had lied to him". Later, motherfucker! Damn. I was for sure this story was gonna end with ' so all the mudding jobs were mine from then on...' What an ass. You got off lucky  |
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Wow you can tell that just by seeing the heads? I think they're galvanized though, that's good right? Quoted:
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Look like drywall screws Wow you can tell that just by seeing the heads? I think they're galvanized though, that's good right? You can tell by the color, drywall screws are black, galvanized are silver, coated are gray, green, or tan (maybe other colors but those are the standard ones.) I wouldn't use drywall screws since they are prone to rusting, even though they are probably fine behind a waterproof membrane. |
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Quoted: 500-1500 a sq ft? What do you build, sheds out of marble with gold siding on a titanium foundation? Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: mud looks fine for a first coat. its not importamt how it looks now. its only important how it looks when its painted and finished. i have thousands in drywall tools, flat boxes, tapers, pumps, angle heads. now for the cement backer board. it wicks water further than sheetrock and grows molds just as much. many idiots mistakenly believe its waterproof and a good surface for tile in wet areas. it is not, and should be waterproofed with some type of membrane. paint on like redguard, or a film like kerdi. i suspect that if your contractor knew this, he would have just applied kerdi over sheetrock, since thats easier and faster than dealing with cement backerboard. my assumption is that he doesnt know any better. i've ripped out more failed bathroom tile than i care to think about. much of it on bare cement backerboard. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Lol, we call them the kerdi koolaid drinkers. Have you priced kerdi products lately? I'll stick to durock, I havent had a shower with durock fail yet in 25 years. Tape the seams/screw holes with thinset, then hydroban and it will last for 30 years(provided the tile is installed proper) Im a GC (average $500-$1500 sq. ft. interior residental) I'd be shown the curb if I used gyp in a wet area, barrier or not. Cement Board with Laticrete 9235 all the way. 500-1500 a sq ft? What do you build, sheds out of marble with gold siding on a titanium foundation? No kidding. Holy cow. |
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No kidding. Holy cow. Quoted:
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mud looks fine for a first coat. its not importamt how it looks now. its only important how it looks when its painted and finished. i have thousands in drywall tools, flat boxes, tapers, pumps, angle heads. now for the cement backer board. it wicks water further than sheetrock and grows molds just as much. many idiots mistakenly believe its waterproof and a good surface for tile in wet areas. it is not, and should be waterproofed with some type of membrane. paint on like redguard, or a film like kerdi. i suspect that if your contractor knew this, he would have just applied kerdi over sheetrock, since thats easier and faster than dealing with cement backerboard. my assumption is that he doesnt know any better. i've ripped out more failed bathroom tile than i care to think about. much of it on bare cement backerboard. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Lol, we call them the kerdi koolaid drinkers. Have you priced kerdi products lately? I'll stick to durock, I havent had a shower with durock fail yet in 25 years. Tape the seams/screw holes with thinset, then hydroban and it will last for 30 years(provided the tile is installed proper) Im a GC (average $500-$1500 sq. ft. interior residental) I'd be shown the curb if I used gyp in a wet area, barrier or not. Cement Board with Laticrete 9235 all the way. 500-1500 a sq ft? What do you build, sheds out of marble with gold siding on a titanium foundation? No kidding. Holy cow. sounds like a former union tri-state area GC guy i knew. |
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Im a GC (average $500-$1500 sq. ft. interior residental) I'd be shown the curb if I used gyp in a wet area, barrier or not. Cement Board with Laticrete 9235 all the way. Quoted:
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mud looks fine for a first coat. its not importamt how it looks now. its only important how it looks when its painted and finished. i have thousands in drywall tools, flat boxes, tapers, pumps, angle heads. now for the cement backer board. it wicks water further than sheetrock and grows molds just as much. many idiots mistakenly believe its waterproof and a good surface for tile in wet areas. it is not, and should be waterproofed with some type of membrane. paint on like redguard, or a film like kerdi. i suspect that if your contractor knew this, he would have just applied kerdi over sheetrock, since thats easier and faster than dealing with cement backerboard. my assumption is that he doesnt know any better. i've ripped out more failed bathroom tile than i care to think about. much of it on bare cement backerboard. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Lol, we call them the kerdi koolaid drinkers. Have you priced kerdi products lately? I'll stick to durock, I havent had a shower with durock fail yet in 25 years. Tape the seams/screw holes with thinset, then hydroban and it will last for 30 years(provided the tile is installed proper) Im a GC (average $500-$1500 sq. ft. interior residental) I'd be shown the curb if I used gyp in a wet area, barrier or not. Cement Board with Laticrete 9235 all the way. LOL ok champ |
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As one who has done alot of drywall professionaly, I always worked the board in three mud stages. Tape and float, block coat, and a final skim coat with a 12in knife.
The skim allows you to feather the joints out nice and wide and if done correctly, really cuts down the amount of sanding. If he can make it work in two, then great. All that said, he seems to be off to a good start from what I could tell from the pics. If the seams are visible from 3ft when finished without using a light, have you guy make it right. Why 3ft? Industry standard. |
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Quoted: 500-1500 a sq ft? What do you build, sheds out of marble with gold siding on a titanium foundation? Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: mud looks fine for a first coat. its not importamt how it looks now. its only important how it looks when its painted and finished. i have thousands in drywall tools, flat boxes, tapers, pumps, angle heads. now for the cement backer board. it wicks water further than sheetrock and grows molds just as much. many idiots mistakenly believe its waterproof and a good surface for tile in wet areas. it is not, and should be waterproofed with some type of membrane. paint on like redguard, or a film like kerdi. i suspect that if your contractor knew this, he would have just applied kerdi over sheetrock, since thats easier and faster than dealing with cement backerboard. my assumption is that he doesnt know any better. i've ripped out more failed bathroom tile than i care to think about. much of it on bare cement backerboard. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Lol, we call them the kerdi koolaid drinkers. Have you priced kerdi products lately? I'll stick to durock, I havent had a shower with durock fail yet in 25 years. Tape the seams/screw holes with thinset, then hydroban and it will last for 30 years(provided the tile is installed proper) Im a GC (average $500-$1500 sq. ft. interior residental) I'd be shown the curb if I used gyp in a wet area, barrier or not. Cement Board with Laticrete 9235 all the way. 500-1500 a sq ft? What do you build, sheds out of marble with gold siding on a titanium foundation? High End Interior Renovation (some new construction as well). The last project I completed ran about $1200 sq ft. I was just awarded one running about $1600 sq. ft. ..in NYC |
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High End Interior Renovation (some new construction as well). The last project I completed ran about $1200 sq ft. I was just awarded one running about $1600 sq. ft. ..in NYC $1200 sq ft? $1600 sq ft? WTF kind of units are those? 
I think they do sitcom skits about "contractors" like you. 
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As one who has done alot of drywall professionaly, I always worked the board in three mud stages. Tape and float, block coat, and a final skim coat with a 12in knife. The skim allows you to feather the joints out nice and wide and if done correctly, really cuts down the amount of sanding. If he can make it work in two, then great. All that said, he seems to be off to a good start from what I could tell from the pics. If the seams are visible from 3ft when finished without using a light, have you guy make it right. Why 3ft? Industry standard. This is usually how I do it, If I understand your post correctly. The first coat fills and covers the seams for further coats. The main objective is to get everything sealed, and uniform, with no air pockets. And create a smooth surface to build upon. The second coat spreads the surface for the last coat. Each stage rquires you to bend the knife slightly so that the outside edges(where it meets the paper) do not require much sanding. The third coat, I usually do with a 12" knife, the finished seam is about 20" inches wide for butt seams, slightly less for tapered seams. Remember, you want your sanding or sponging to be limited to the center, not where the mud meets the paper. |
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$1200 sq ft? $1600 sq ft? WTF kind of units are those?
I think they do sitcom skits about "contractors" like you. Quoted:
Quoted:
High End Interior Renovation (some new construction as well). The last project I completed ran about $1200 sq ft. I was just awarded one running about $1600 sq. ft. ..in NYC $1200 sq ft? $1600 sq ft? WTF kind of units are those?
I think they do sitcom skits about "contractors" like you. It would have to be that much or more for me to live in that shithole. |
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If you want a perfect drywall job, find a blind guy. No joke. A guy I know was doing some sheetrock work in his house and invited a friend over to help sand who is legally blind. He said the friend was working on one seam for a long time and finally called the guy over to check it out because he "just couldn't get it right." The guy went over and checked it and said "it was like glass." The blind guy, obviously unable to see what he was working on very well, was sanding by touch. However, his fingers were so sensitive from reading Braille, etc. that any minor bump or divot seemed huge to him. |