[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Best year of Ford Excursion (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 8/13/2015 7:54:43 PM EDT
| If you were looking to purchase a Ford Excursion, would you be looking at the 7.3L years only? Anything wrong with the 6.0L Powerstroke? |
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If you were looking to purchase a Ford Excursion, would you be looking at the 7.3L years only? Anything wrong with the 6.0L Powerstroke? Plenty wrong with the 6.0 but the 7.3 isn't without issues, and the 6.0 has been around long enough where every failure can be prevented through some maintenance or aftermarket solution. I wouldn't rule out either as long as the budget allows correcting the factory wrongs, regardless of which engine you choose. |
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Thanks. What does the 2002 have that the 2005 model doesnt have? (2005 was last year of excursion) Quoted:
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Get a 2002 For a few thousand dollars the 6.blow can be made serviceable Thanks. What does the 2002 have that the 2005 model doesnt have? (2005 was last year of excursion) 7.3 |
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Quoted: Agree. My '05 with the 6.0 has been fine. I've had it since '09. http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy309/toecutter_01/IMG_0907.jpg Quoted: Quoted: They're all good. It's all in how you take care of them. 6.0L model gets a superior transmission. Agree. My '05 with the 6.0 has been fine. I've had it since '09. http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy309/toecutter_01/IMG_0907.jpg |
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Agree. My '05 with the 6.0 has been fine. I've had it since '09. http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy309/toecutter_01/IMG_0907.jpg Quoted:
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They're all good. It's all in how you take care of them. 6.0L model gets a superior transmission. Agree. My '05 with the 6.0 has been fine. I've had it since '09. http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy309/toecutter_01/IMG_0907.jpg Nice looking rig. I love the headlights and grille on the last models. Even the side view mirrors are better looking. Not ghey. |
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Quoted: Bring back the Centurion avatar, and if you ever want to sell that, you let me know. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: They're all good. It's all in how you take care of them. 6.0L model gets a superior transmission. Agree. My '05 with the 6.0 has been fine. I've had it since '09. http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy309/toecutter_01/IMG_0907.jpg Not selling it any time soon. Probably ever. Still get it serviced at the dealer. (Yeah, I know) and the diesel guy offers to buy it from me every time I go in there. As for the other avatar, it was to mark an unfortunate 10 anniversary where I lost six guys KIA in 3 days. |
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Quoted: Nice looking rig. I love the headlights and grille on the last models. Even the side view mirrors are better looking. Not ghey. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: They're all good. It's all in how you take care of them. 6.0L model gets a superior transmission. Agree. My '05 with the 6.0 has been fine. I've had it since '09. http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy309/toecutter_01/IMG_0907.jpg Nice looking rig. I love the headlights and grille on the last models. Even the side view mirrors are better looking. Not ghey. Thanks. |
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Huh? Fragile compared to what? Sterling 10.25 rear, Dana 50 up front, leafs and coils, the 6R80 trans is stout as fuck, and the NP271 is far from weak. Quoted:
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They're offensively big. I've always wanted one, but the suspension and drivetrain can be fragile. Huh? Fragile compared to what? Sterling 10.25 rear, Dana 50 up front, leafs and coils, the 6R80 trans is stout as fuck, and the NP271 is far from weak. Damn straight, you ain't going to break it unless you are doing boosted launches in 4 wheel low. |
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If I had a real need and the extra cash I would do this. http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h103/Ozman2/4c2eaa00c44310c9543e8194dd048c9f_zps3524362f.jpg This is a close compromise. http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h103/Ozman2/a088e2f7a748cbd2b74e6ae843381f2c_zpsqe0c8xyw.jpg Good condition 7.3 Excursions are hard to find at anything close to a reasonable price but I would still like to have one someday. If the 6.0 made as little power as that dinosaur of an engine 7.3, it would never have issues with the heads. |
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Damn straight, you ain't going to break it unless you are doing boosted launches in 4 wheel low. Quoted:
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They're offensively big. I've always wanted one, but the suspension and drivetrain can be fragile. Huh? Fragile compared to what? Sterling 10.25 rear, Dana 50 up front, leafs and coils, the 6R80 trans is stout as fuck, and the NP271 is far from weak. Damn straight, you ain't going to break it unless you are doing boosted launches in 4 wheel low. The suspension arms don't do well off road, I've seen quite a few snapped in CO--may also be the road salt. Same goes for the driveshaft U-joints. The thing is about 2000 pounds too heavy for its metallurgy. |
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The suspension arms don't do well off road, I've seen quite a few snapped in CO--may also be the road salt. Same goes for the driveshaft U-joints. The thing is about 2000 pounds too heavy for its metallurgy. Quoted:
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They're offensively big. I've always wanted one, but the suspension and drivetrain can be fragile. Huh? Fragile compared to what? Sterling 10.25 rear, Dana 50 up front, leafs and coils, the 6R80 trans is stout as fuck, and the NP271 is far from weak. Damn straight, you ain't going to break it unless you are doing boosted launches in 4 wheel low. The suspension arms don't do well off road, I've seen quite a few snapped in CO--may also be the road salt. Same goes for the driveshaft U-joints. The thing is about 2000 pounds too heavy for its metallurgy. And this is how I know you don't own one. Biggest issue with excursions is actually the front ball joints U joints aren't a problem on f250/350/450/550's |
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The suspension arms don't do well off road, I've seen quite a few snapped in CO--may also be the road salt. Same goes for the driveshaft U-joints. The thing is about 2000 pounds too heavy for its metallurgy. Quoted:
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They're offensively big. I've always wanted one, but the suspension and drivetrain can be fragile. Huh? Fragile compared to what? Sterling 10.25 rear, Dana 50 up front, leafs and coils, the 6R80 trans is stout as fuck, and the NP271 is far from weak. Damn straight, you ain't going to break it unless you are doing boosted launches in 4 wheel low. The suspension arms don't do well off road, I've seen quite a few snapped in CO--may also be the road salt. Same goes for the driveshaft U-joints. The thing is about 2000 pounds too heavy for its metallurgy. There is nothing special about the universal joints that separates it from anything else that uses a conventional longitudinally oriented 4x4. U-joints are also a wear item and a "fuse" link, intended to fail before anything more expensive does. The "suspension arms" do fine for most light wheeling and offer more wheel travel than pretty much anything that isn't an F250 and a pickup truck. Raptor notwithstanding, since it's neither using a live axle up front, nor does it match the strength of the F250 components, and Dodge is pretty decent but the AAM front isn't as stout as the Ford options for steer axles. The Ford radius arms are fine for 99% of light wheeling and actual truck-like duties where rigidity is required or desired. Since the Kodiak went away, there's literally nothing substantially beefier from any of the big three OEMs right now than what you would get under an F250. That gave you a D70 and 5.13's up front. If it's 2000lbs too heavy you should tell that to all the guys using them as ambulances, firetrucks, severe conditions police vehicles, tow rigs, etc. and suggest that they step up to a Freightiner. It's clear you don't actually know what you're talking about. |
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Over the last 10ish years I've had 4 f250's 77,01,03, and an 06. 1st gen superduty's is were it's at in my estimation. I'd love to get my hands on a clean 01-03 7.3 expedition, but the prices around here are sky high. I still don't get the love affair with the 7.3. My 6.4 has over 170k miles in the oroginal drive train and puts down over 900lb of torque. |
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I still don't get the love affair with the 7.3. My 6.4 has over 170k miles in the oroginal drive train and puts down over 900lb of torque. Quoted:
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Over the last 10ish years I've had 4 f250's 77,01,03, and an 06. 1st gen superduty's is were it's at in my estimation. I'd love to get my hands on a clean 01-03 7.3 expedition, but the prices around here are sky high. I still don't get the love affair with the 7.3. My 6.4 has over 170k miles in the oroginal drive train and puts down over 900lb of torque. I'm at 140k on mine. Spartan tuned @ +250hp since 21k miles on the truck. Did my heads since I stretched the bolts with the extra boost. No complaints. Only 'problem' I've had with mine. And I tow a decent bit as well.. And off road... |
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I'm at 140k on mine. Spartan tuned @ +250hp since 21k miles on the truck. Did my heads since I stretched the bolts with the extra boost. No complaints. Only 'problem' I've had with mine. And I tow a decent bit as well.. And off road... Quoted:
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Over the last 10ish years I've had 4 f250's 77,01,03, and an 06. 1st gen superduty's is were it's at in my estimation. I'd love to get my hands on a clean 01-03 7.3 expedition, but the prices around here are sky high. I still don't get the love affair with the 7.3. My 6.4 has over 170k miles in the oroginal drive train and puts down over 900lb of torque. I'm at 140k on mine. Spartan tuned @ +250hp since 21k miles on the truck. Did my heads since I stretched the bolts with the extra boost. No complaints. Only 'problem' I've had with mine. And I tow a decent bit as well.. And off road... Awesome, Spartans are the best IMO. Majority of 6.4 failures on job 3's were from people not maintaining properly or putting it on a 350 hp tune with no supporting mods. |
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There is nothing special about the universal joints that separates it from anything else that uses a conventional longitudinally oriented 4x4. U-joints are also a wear item and a "fuse" link, intended to fail before anything more expensive does. The "suspension arms" do fine for most light wheeling and offer more wheel travel than pretty much anything that isn't an F250 and a pickup truck. Radius arms are fine for 99% of light wheeling and actual truck-like duties where rigidity is required or desired. Since the Kodiak went away, there's literally nothing substantially beefier from any of the big three OEMs right now than what you would get under an F250. It's clear you don't actually know what you're talking about. Quoted:
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They're offensively big. I've always wanted one, but the suspension and drivetrain can be fragile. Huh? Fragile compared to what? Sterling 10.25 rear, Dana 50 up front, leafs and coils, the 6R80 trans is stout as fuck, and the NP271 is far from weak. Damn straight, you ain't going to break it unless you are doing boosted launches in 4 wheel low. The suspension arms don't do well off road, I've seen quite a few snapped in CO--may also be the road salt. Same goes for the driveshaft U-joints. The thing is about 2000 pounds too heavy for its metallurgy. There is nothing special about the universal joints that separates it from anything else that uses a conventional longitudinally oriented 4x4. U-joints are also a wear item and a "fuse" link, intended to fail before anything more expensive does. The "suspension arms" do fine for most light wheeling and offer more wheel travel than pretty much anything that isn't an F250 and a pickup truck. Radius arms are fine for 99% of light wheeling and actual truck-like duties where rigidity is required or desired. Since the Kodiak went away, there's literally nothing substantially beefier from any of the big three OEMs right now than what you would get under an F250. It's clear you don't actually know what you're talking about. I've seen enough broken on the trails to know that they don't hold up, mostly Utah/Montana guys who unhook their fifth wheels and then give the 4x4 trails a try. The half dozen I've seen tended to either blow up their driveshaft joints when someone gunned it when trying to unstick it while humping a rock and converting it permanently to FWD (for whatever reason it was always the rear shaft), or the suspension control arms breaking. Usually the passenger side--not sure if people are less careful to avoid obstacles on that side without a spotter. These weren't heavily modified vehicles on hard core trails, either... which makes me wonder if it's their weight. Not much different from the H2 tie rods snapping. |
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I still don't get the love affair with the 7.3. My 6.4 has over 170k miles in the oroginal drive train and puts down over 900lb of torque. Quoted:
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Over the last 10ish years I've had 4 f250's 77,01,03, and an 06. 1st gen superduty's is were it's at in my estimation. I'd love to get my hands on a clean 01-03 7.3 expedition, but the prices around here are sky high. I still don't get the love affair with the 7.3. My 6.4 has over 170k miles in the oroginal drive train and puts down over 900lb of torque. I've driven a few 7.3s and like them, but haven't made the leap. All of mine have been gas burners, I just can't justify the increased maintenance/fuel cost. |
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Awesome, Spartans are the best IMO. Majority of 6.4 failures on job 3's were from people not maintaining properly or putting it on a 350 hp tune with no supporting mods. Quoted:
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Over the last 10ish years I've had 4 f250's 77,01,03, and an 06. 1st gen superduty's is were it's at in my estimation. I'd love to get my hands on a clean 01-03 7.3 expedition, but the prices around here are sky high. I still don't get the love affair with the 7.3. My 6.4 has over 170k miles in the oroginal drive train and puts down over 900lb of torque. I'm at 140k on mine. Spartan tuned @ +250hp since 21k miles on the truck. Did my heads since I stretched the bolts with the extra boost. No complaints. Only 'problem' I've had with mine. And I tow a decent bit as well.. And off road... Awesome, Spartans are the best IMO. Majority of 6.4 failures on job 3's were from people not maintaining properly or putting it on a 350 hp tune with no supporting mods. In general with the 6.4s and post 08 engines of any brand, I've seen alot of people running the wrong oil. Running a CI4 oil instead of a CJ4 oil. CI4 hasn't been in spec since 2003. Yet people still sell it. It's a huge cause of oil cooler / egr / valve train and dpf failure. |
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I've driven a few 7.3s and like them, but haven't made the leap. All of mine have been gas burners, I just can't justify the increased maintenance/fuel cost. Quoted:
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Over the last 10ish years I've had 4 f250's 77,01,03, and an 06. 1st gen superduty's is were it's at in my estimation. I'd love to get my hands on a clean 01-03 7.3 expedition, but the prices around here are sky high. I still don't get the love affair with the 7.3. My 6.4 has over 170k miles in the oroginal drive train and puts down over 900lb of torque. I've driven a few 7.3s and like them, but haven't made the leap. All of mine have been gas burners, I just can't justify the increased maintenance/fuel cost. the diesel option is normally more expensive. For me, it's worth it pulling my camper with out braking a sweat |
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Quoted: I'm at 140k on mine. Spartan tuned @ +250hp since 21k miles on the truck. Did my heads since I stretched the bolts with the extra boost. No complaints. Only 'problem' I've had with mine. And I tow a decent bit as well.. And off road... Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Over the last 10ish years I've had 4 f250's 77,01,03, and an 06. 1st gen superduty's is were it's at in my estimation. I'd love to get my hands on a clean 01-03 7.3 expedition, but the prices around here are sky high. I still don't get the love affair with the 7.3. My 6.4 has over 170k miles in the oroginal drive train and puts down over 900lb of torque. I'm at 140k on mine. Spartan tuned @ +250hp since 21k miles on the truck. Did my heads since I stretched the bolts with the extra boost. No complaints. Only 'problem' I've had with mine. And I tow a decent bit as well.. And off road... 316K on ours. All done by my wife and I. 2000 Limited with the 7.3 White over Gold. Her name is Pearl |
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I've seen enough broken on the trails to know that they don't hold up, mostly Utah/Montana guys who unhook their fifth wheels and then give the 4x4 trails a try. The half dozen I've seen tended to either blow up their driveshaft joints when someone gunned it when trying to unstick it while humping a rock and converting it permanently to FWD (for whatever reason it was always the rear shaft), or the suspension control arms breaking. Usually the passenger side--not sure if people are less careful to avoid obstacles on that side without a spotter. These weren't heavily modified vehicles on hard core trails, either... which makes me wonder if it's their weight. Not much different from the H2 tie rods snapping. An excursion unhook a fifth wheel? Tell me more.
I hope you understand anything after that statement was null. |
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The 6.0 is a good engine, buts it was quite problematic when first introduced. Head studs that wear designed only for stock pressures means that installing a tuner could cause some excess pressures in the cylinders which could cause leaky head gaskets and even warped heads. EGR and EGR coolers cause the engines coolant to become to hot and overheat the engine. They can also have valves stick open which will cause a loss of power. This is caused by excess soot build up. A EGR delete will fix these problems, which isn't to expensive and could render more power/economy. But if you live a inspection state you probably can't do that. The hydraulic injectors are also kinds problematic. But those issues should be resolved with using high quality oil and LOW SULPHUR diesel. This engine was designed in Italy where lsd is and has been for awhile quite common. When the engine was introduced in America some stations only had high sulphur and most diesels would run on it. The high sulphur diesel would cause a build up of soot in the injectors and EGR cooler and cause the above problems. Getting a 6.0 bullet proofed isn't to expensive. It'll probably cheaper to buy a 6.0 truck than a 7.3 truck. The 6.0 will deliver more power and more fuel economy. But really need low sulphur diesel which will cost more so that might even out the average fuel cost. A 7.3 with a good tuner will make the same power as a 6.0. But I don't know the legality of using a tuner in a inspection state. Eta: there are other problems with the 6.0 also, and I'm not a pro. The 6.0 does come with a better trans though. |
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I've seen enough broken on the trails to know that they don't hold up, mostly Utah/Montana guys who unhook their fifth wheels and then give the 4x4 trails a try. The half dozen I've seen tended to either blow up their driveshaft joints when someone gunned it when trying to unstick it while humping a rock and converting it permanently to FWD (for whatever reason it was always the rear shaft), or the suspension control arms breaking. Usually the passenger side--not sure if people are less careful to avoid obstacles on that side without a spotter. These weren't heavily modified vehicles on hard core trails, either... which makes me wonder if it's their weight. Not much different from the H2 tie rods snapping. Quoted:
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There is nothing special about the universal joints that separates it from anything else that uses a conventional longitudinally oriented 4x4. U-joints are also a wear item and a "fuse" link, intended to fail before anything more expensive does. The "suspension arms" do fine for most light wheeling and offer more wheel travel than pretty much anything that isn't an F250 and a pickup truck. Radius arms are fine for 99% of light wheeling and actual truck-like duties where rigidity is required or desired. Since the Kodiak went away, there's literally nothing substantially beefier from any of the big three OEMs right now than what you would get under an F250. It's clear you don't actually know what you're talking about. I've seen enough broken on the trails to know that they don't hold up, mostly Utah/Montana guys who unhook their fifth wheels and then give the 4x4 trails a try. The half dozen I've seen tended to either blow up their driveshaft joints when someone gunned it when trying to unstick it while humping a rock and converting it permanently to FWD (for whatever reason it was always the rear shaft), or the suspension control arms breaking. Usually the passenger side--not sure if people are less careful to avoid obstacles on that side without a spotter. These weren't heavily modified vehicles on hard core trails, either... which makes me wonder if it's their weight. Not much different from the H2 tie rods snapping. fucking LOL It's literally 100% different than H2 TRE's snapping. H2 uses a GM 1500-class IFS, a pitman connected to a drag link with individual articulating TR's that are unsupported. Even the 2500HD/3500 series steering setups are substantially stronger than the H2, and that's not saying much. F250 uses a live axle with a single tie rod and drag link, and have much better caster support than the IFS counterpart does -- forward/backward articulation is what usually kills the steering on the GM IFS. It's literally day and night difference between the H2 and the F250. If you're attempting to "gun it" to fix a problem when "humping rocks." you're going to fuck up most of the time anyway, it doesn't matter what you're driving.... and losing u-joints is probably a case of cheap joints more than anything else--you're not going to frag a Sterling or Dana 50 shafts unless you've got HUGE tires, torque, and traction at the same time. (You'd probably wish a u-joint would break if you had all three of those align and couldn't get out anyway -- a hell of a lot cheaper to fix....) Just because you see idiots running trucks on trails likely intended for much smaller vehicles doesn't suggest that the vehicle is somehow underbuilt, it more likely means there's a retard behind the wheel making the decisions. If you designed an F250, what would you put under it? Dana 110 and Dana 70? Rockwell 2.5's or 5's? There's not a whole lot of options that exist beyond what's already on them, without getting into medium truck territory. The ever-beloved D60 and 14bsf are basically equal as far as strength goes. |
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Quoted: Not selling it any time soon. Probably ever. Still get it serviced at the dealer. (Yeah, I know) and the diesel guy offers to buy it from me every time I go in there. As for the other avatar, it was to mark an unfortunate 10 anniversary where I lost six guys KIA in 3 days. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: They're all good. It's all in how you take care of them. 6.0L model gets a superior transmission. Agree. My '05 with the 6.0 has been fine. I've had it since '09. http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy309/toecutter_01/IMG_0907.jpg Not selling it any time soon. Probably ever. Still get it serviced at the dealer. (Yeah, I know) and the diesel guy offers to buy it from me every time I go in there. As for the other avatar, it was to mark an unfortunate 10 anniversary where I lost six guys KIA in 3 days. I've been looking for a job end black on black or black on tan forever to match my 1997 F-350.
Sorry about your guys man. |
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2000. Last year the 7.3 had forged rods. And here is mine <a href="http://s929.photobucket.com/user/Stephen_Yavorsky/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150404_131257_zpsks2kbgud.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/ad137/Stephen_Yavorsky/Mobile%20Uploads/20150404_131257_zpsks2kbgud.jpg</a> (She is for sale, btw... Updated grill/lights? 05/06? Looks nice! |
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Updated grill/lights? 05/06? Looks nice! Quoted:
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2000. Last year the 7.3 had forged rods. And here is mine <a href="http://s929.photobucket.com/user/Stephen_Yavorsky/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150404_131257_zpsks2kbgud.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/ad137/Stephen_Yavorsky/Mobile%20Uploads/20150404_131257_zpsks2kbgud.jpg</a> (She is for sale, btw... Updated grill/lights? 05/06? Looks nice! Yup. It made a HUGE difference!!! |
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The 7.3 was also available in 2003. In 2003 the 6.0 was introduced so there were 2 motor choices for that year.
If you want to stay with a 7.3, you want a 2000/Calendar year 99. Those years have forged rods (you still need to confirm it by engine vin just to be sure - or do a visual of the rods through the inspection port.) The other years have powdered metal rods which are weak as shit. The 7.3 is stupid slow anyhow - I am talking slower than a Prius with a flat tire slow, but at least with the steel rods you can spend a fortune to make 400hp pretty safely. Left stock, the 7.3 is very reliable and gets respectable fuel economy for its size. They love crank position sensors and most people keep a spare in the glove box so when it fails on the highway at 70mph you can coast to the side of the road and change it out in less than 2 minutes. Go ahead and grab a glow plug relay as well since the 7.3 is notoriously hard on glow plugs. The best bet is an 05 as the 6.0 was mostly ironed out by then. It will still require some mods to be bullet proof but you are getting the updated exterior, minor changes to the interior and the far superior 5r110 transmission. Tthe 05 grill can be retrofitted to earlier models as mostly a bolt on if you like that look and style though. In 2004 the factory added a tow package which included a very important rear sway bar. Now it it confusing because all Excursions have a rear hitch which is part of the blocker bar system, but not all Excursions have the factory tow package. The corresponding year F350 sway bar does bolt right in, so if you get one without the tow package, you def. want to bolt in a sway bar. The tow package also offers up the real size mirrors instead of the little paddles. The tow mirrors were optional on all Excursions without the tow package and are a pretty easy bolt in. The X can also take the updated 08-10 factory tow mirrors with a little wiring adjustments. |
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The 7.3 was also available in 2003. In 2003 the 6.0 was introduced so there were 2 motor choices for that year. If you want to stay with a 7.3, you want a 2000/Calendar year 99. Those years have forged rods (you still need to confirm it by engine vin just to be sure - or do a visual of the rods through the inspection port.) The other years have powdered metal rods which are weak as shit. The 7.3 is stupid slow anyhow - I am talking slower than a Prius with a flat tire slow, but at least with the steel rods you can spend a fortune to make 400hp pretty safely. Left stock, the 7.3 is very reliable and gets respectable fuel economy for its size. They love crank position sensors and most people keep a spare in the glove box so when it fails on the highway at 70mph you can coast to the side of the road and change it out in less than 2 minutes. Go ahead and grab a glow plug relay as well since the 7.3 is notoriously hard on glow plugs. The best bet is an 05 as the 6.0 was mostly ironed out by then. It will still require some mods to be bullet proof but you are getting the updated exterior, minor changes to the interior and the far superior 5r110 transmission. Tthe 05 grill can be retrofitted to earlier models as mostly a bolt on if you like that look and style though. In 2004 the factory added a tow package which included a very important rear sway bar. Now it it confusing because all Excursions have a rear hitch which is part of the blocker bar system, but not all Excursions have the factory tow package. The corresponding year F350 sway bar does bolt right in, so if you get one without the tow package, you def. want to bolt in a sway bar. The tow package also offers up the real size mirrors instead of the little paddles. The tow mirrors were optional on all Excursions without the tow package and are a pretty easy bolt in. The X can also take the updated 08-10 factory tow mirrors with a little wiring adjustments. Good information, thank you. Just out of curiosity, what are your thoughts on the 6.4L Powerstroke (2008-2010?) in the F250? Does it have as many redeeming qualities as the 6.0L? Ideally, I hear the 6.7L is in a class of it's own, but even the 2011 F250's are so expensive. |
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If I could afford it, the best year would probably be the 2015 Excursion: |






