Posted: 2/15/2015 8:25:34 PM EDT
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I have a 48 ft enclosed trailer that I use when I go ATV racing. It has an onboard propane powered Onan generator and an automatic transfer switch that switches between shore power and generator power. I also carry a Yamaha EF12000DE generator that I use when I run my welder and on long weekends when I dont have enough propane to get me through and for backup if something breaks on the Onan. I plug the Yamaha into the shore power cord when I use it. Last year the original transfer switch failed and I replaced it with a really high tech transfer switch/surge protector that is supposed to be much higher quality than the original. It has electronics inside that monitor voltage and shut the power off if it is too high or low.
After installing the new transfer switch, I have trouble getting it to work with the Yamaha sometimes. The control panel on the Yamaha has an analog gauge for voltage. When the transfer switch wont stay engaged, you can watch the needle and it will be rapidly bouncing up and down by about 20V. Turning off the main breaker or shutting down and restarting the generator usually doesnt get it to work right again. Sometimes it will do this right at startup, or it will run 10 hours or more before it happens. I bought this generator used with 76 hours on it. I got it from the local Yamaha dealer. It had a new voltage regulator because They had removed the original voltage regulator to give to another customer to get him up and running. I actually installed the new one myself so I know it was new. The generator has 380 hours on it now. I have no idea if this problem was present since the beginning or not because the old switch did not care what kind of power was going through it. I noticed no ill effects on any of my electrical devices. What should I do? The dealer is primarily an ATV dealer, so they are no help with it. Is there some sort of filter device I can use to clean up the voltage? I have a lab scope and am well versed in automotive testing and diagnostics. Can anybody here tell me what and how to properly diagnose this thing? I feel like its the regulator but thats just a guess. I guess I could go back to the old style transfer switch but I think fixing the voltage fluctuations would be the right way to fix it. |
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Put a load on it, like a space heater.
Get a good multimeter and check Hz and Voltage. Also, check the tolerances on the new transfer switch in the owners manual. See if you can adjust the tolerances so it's not as sensitive. My guess is the Yamaha is bouncing around in voltage too much for the transfer switch to want to shift to it. |
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I have 4 8ft fluorescent lights that run almost constantly and the roof a/c in the living quarters is on most of the time too. Today I ran the electric heater in the roof unit while I was messing with it. It ran for about 3 hours with no problems. I shut the breaker off and turned it back on, then it started fluctuating again. I tried everything to get it to stop. Messed with it for an hour to no avail.
Governor looks to be a spring/ oil slinger type. The engine seems to be running ok when this happens. Varying the rpm has no effect. However, when you turn off the key to shut it down, the needle on the gauge stops bouncing and steadily drops as the engine winds down. Don't know if that's a clue or not. |
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Quoted:
The control panel on the Yamaha has an analog gauge for voltage. When the transfer switch wont stay engaged, you can watch the needle and it will be rapidly bouncing up and down by about 20V This doesn't sound like normal generator operation. Typically, a voltage regulator will keep the voltage very constant, particularly when you aren't adding or removing large electrical loads. With a nearly constant load, the voltage shouldn't vary by more than a few volts, unless the engine is running very rough. You might take a look at the brushes in the alternator head - If they're worn, they can produce wild voltage fluctuations, even if the voltage regulator is attempting to compensate for them. |