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AR15.COM
10/2/2014 10:39:21 AM EDT
Thinking about tearing down my walk in basement (18x34) carpets, walls and ceiling. i want to turn it to a studio, minus the kitchen.   Any advice/tips on remodeling basements?  What materials work best? what materials to avoid?

10/2/2014 11:01:08 AM EDT
[#1]
How do you remove the ARFCOMer from it before starting construction?
10/2/2014 2:13:53 PM EDT
[#2]
Not a pro, just a DIY who did a lot of research before doing his own - so take it with a grain...





- Resolve any water issues first, correctly (exterior).





- In all things, insure walls/floors can dry to the interior (no vapor barriers).





- Know your R requirements to control where condensation can happen and build accordingly





- Your local codes may be contrary to this or other advice.  Doesn't mean they are right (often they are outdated and exacerbate mold issues, ex: vapor barrier requirements) but they may limit your options.
Ideal build would look something like:





Standard framing offset from wall with gap and stud cavity filled with sprayed foam.  Another approach is 2" XPS glued to the walls with standard framing adjacent and cavity filled with un-faced insulation.





Foam depth/framing offset would be determined by what R factor your area requires to control condensation.





Flooring if level and no condensation issues could be 1" XPS sheets glued to slab, with 3/4" advantech (or similar) T/G 4x8 nailed through.  May want/need 2 layers, depending.





If the slab is uneven or condensation is an issue you may need to put frame the floor up on appropriate sleepers first, foam between sleepers, then your decking.





Finished flooring ideally would be carpet over a breathable pad (again, to insure drying to the interior) rather than large areas of tile or vinyl that would trap moisture underneath.





Flooring directly over the slab might be an option, but would be cold and hard.





Would need to decide if you frame on top of the finished floor or framing runs up from the slab (assuming non-structural partitions) and then float the floor between partitions.  If framing is to the slab, you'll want to use something between the bottom board and the slab as both a capillary block and thermal insulator.





You'll want to know if your slab heaves vertically at all... if so the framing needs to "float" at the top or hang from the joists - hopefully not an issue for you.





Walls can be sheet rock, directly against the framing (no vapor barrier) and offset from the bottom by an 1" or so to avoid wicking any moisture from the floor or minor spill/flood.  Ideally a mold resistant paper or paperless variety and with sufficient fire rating given the foam behind it.





Make sure your paint or wall paper, etc are breathable and don't end up acting as a vapor barrier.





The sill pockets should also be foamed completely - you don't want warm damp air from your finished space collecting and condensing in the recessed sill pockets and rotting them out.





Ceiling can be drop/tile or sheet rock.   Tile is quieter by default.  Noise abatement is expensive.  Insulating the joists helps negligibly.





Go here: http://www.buildingscience.com and look at everything they have to say about moisture control in basements and best practices.





Good luck!





This is my before and after:













 
10/2/2014 2:30:28 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote History
Quoted:
Not a pro, just a DIY who did a lot of research before doing his own - so take it with a grain...

This is my before and after:


View Quote



Noice!