Posted: 2/15/2014 12:10:03 PM EDT
| I am in need of a table saw. I would like a quality table saw. I don't want to spend a grand though. It seems like all the new ones are just plastic. I am looking for a nice one that can be new or old. It seems like some olds ones are just built better...so any tips or brands? |
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Home depot has a Ridgid for $549. It's not a portable model, but it has a set of casters that you can use to move it around your shop. The casters retract and the saw is very stable (heavy). The disadvantage is the motor is mounted to the deck, but that is what you get for 500 bucks.
Table Saw Edit: I should mention I have this model, and have used it for quite a few projects. I had to rip some 8 foot long 1/2 inch lumber for a window and it made great cuts. I used a 90 tooth blade. |
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Quoted: Honestly, find a Delta on Craig's List. This is what I did. I have a nice delta with a Biesemeyer fence. Jet is another one I would look at. If you get a used one, it might pay for itself after a single project. That Rigid above looks a lot like my Delta. Rigid is good stuff too. |
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Check out the Grizzly saws. 10" grizzly
I have the 1023 which is a step up in size and price and has a 3hp 200 motor. It's not as nice as a unisaw, but it doesn't cost near what a unisaw costs either. |
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Quoted: Home depot has a Ridgid for $549. It's not a portable model, but it has a set of casters that you can use to move it around your shop. The casters retract and the saw is very stable (heavy). The disadvantage is the motor is mounted to the deck, but that is what you get for 500 bucks. Table Saw Edit: I should mention I have this model, and have used it for quite a few projects. I had to rip some 8 foot long 1/2 inch lumber for a window and it made great cuts. I used a 90 tooth blade. I have a Porter Cable that is exactly like that one, and I have been very happy with it. I also have a Rigid Contractor saw for job sites, and I have no real complaints with that one either. |
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Quoted:
Check out the rigid table saw at home depot, it will set you back $500 but its worth every penny. Just make sure you have some help putting it together as it's a heavy SOB Yep. My 3650 handles everything I throw at it. Mine's a bit older and has the solid cast iron top. The newer ones look like they have a combo cast iron and aluminum or something. |
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Quoted:
Yep. My 3650 handles everything I throw at it. Mine's a bit older and has the solid cast iron top. The newer ones look like they have a combo cast iron and aluminum or something. Quoted:
Quoted:
Check out the rigid table saw at home depot, it will set you back $500 but its worth every penny. Just make sure you have some help putting it together as it's a heavy SOB Yep. My 3650 handles everything I throw at it. Mine's a bit older and has the solid cast iron top. The newer ones look like they have a combo cast iron and aluminum or something. The decks are solid cast iron with steel extensions. The rails that the fence mounts to are aluminum. When assembling it takes a little bit of patience to get everything perfect with a straight edge, but I haven't had to adjust anything, yet. |
| In general, belt driven saws are better than direct drive saws. They also give the most usable blade height. I have found some decent deals on older Delta Unisaws and such just for looking for used ones with bad motors. As long as the price is right, the table is flat, and the trunions are intact, it is worth buying a new motor to save $1000 or more. |
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Quoted:
I have a Porter Cable that is exactly like that one, and I have been very happy with it. I also have a Rigid Contractor saw for job sites, and I have no real complaints with that one either. Quoted:
Quoted:
Home depot has a Ridgid for $549. It's not a portable model, but it has a set of casters that you can use to move it around your shop. The casters retract and the saw is very stable (heavy). The disadvantage is the motor is mounted to the deck, but that is what you get for 500 bucks. Table Saw Edit: I should mention I have this model, and have used it for quite a few projects. I had to rip some 8 foot long 1/2 inch lumber for a window and it made great cuts. I used a 90 tooth blade. I have a Porter Cable that is exactly like that one, and I have been very happy with it. I also have a Rigid Contractor saw for job sites, and I have no real complaints with that one either. The only complaint I have is setting the fence. I use a ruler in 64th graduations to make sure it's parallel with the blade, and it takes a minute or two. I have never had the opportunity to use a high end cabinet saw, so I'm not sure if those are any easier, though. |
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Quoted:
This is what I did. I have a nice delta with a Biesemeyer fence. Jet is another one I would look at. If you get a used one, it might pay for itself after a single project. That Rigid above looks a lot like my Delta. Rigid is good stuff too. Quoted:
Quoted:
Honestly, find a Delta on Craig's List. This is what I did. I have a nice delta with a Biesemeyer fence. Jet is another one I would look at. If you get a used one, it might pay for itself after a single project. That Rigid above looks a lot like my Delta. Rigid is good stuff too. Delta with a Biesemeyer fence , one of the best I've ever used... I bought one for work around 7yrs ago, new with government discounts and tax free was around $2500 |
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I bought my Delta Unisaw at an auction for $50. Dumbass me replaced the three phase motor with a single phase 3 to 3.5 HP Baldour. This was before I knew about phase converters and a forum called "Old Woodworking Machines".
So for about $400 I got a $1,000 to $1,500 saw. It still has the original JetLock fence. But once you know it's quirks, you can live with it. Besides I run a splitter behind the blade: 
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Look for a Unisaw with extensions and fence. Or look for a deal on a cast iron table Craftsman. I got a nice one on sale for 450 about 5 years ago. We have an ancient Milwaukee saw at my dad's that we got from an old German woodworker. Hard to get a better saw than that.
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Quoted: The only complaint I have is setting the fence. I use a ruler in 64th graduations to make sure it's parallel with the blade, and it takes a minute or two. I have never had the opportunity to use a high end cabinet saw, so I'm not sure if those are any easier, though. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Home depot has a Ridgid for $549. It's not a portable model, but it has a set of casters that you can use to move it around your shop. The casters retract and the saw is very stable (heavy). The disadvantage is the motor is mounted to the deck, but that is what you get for 500 bucks. Table Saw Edit: I should mention I have this model, and have used it for quite a few projects. I had to rip some 8 foot long 1/2 inch lumber for a window and it made great cuts. I used a 90 tooth blade. I have a Porter Cable that is exactly like that one, and I have been very happy with it. I also have a Rigid Contractor saw for job sites, and I have no real complaints with that one either. The only complaint I have is setting the fence. I use a ruler in 64th graduations to make sure it's parallel with the blade, and it takes a minute or two. I have never had the opportunity to use a high end cabinet saw, so I'm not sure if those are any easier, though. I've had no problems with the fences on either saw, but I always double check just to be safe. I may upgrade to one of the better fences in the future. |
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I have had a General 350 for over 20 years now. Its solid, and very well built. I got mine with a paralock fence. If you can find one of those, don't hesitate to buy it.
Only downside, back then dust collection was not much of a concern, so I had to make my own motor cover - who else has a titanium dust hood on their table saw? A couple of old powermatic 66 saws were scrapped at work a few years ago. i found those cabinets to be pretty wobbly, and the tops were attached srill. I wasn't too impressed. An old unisaw is good, too. If its got a 3 phase motor, iI would swap it out for a good 1ph 220v motor. Popular Woodworking had some good videos on restoring a 1940s vintage unisaw that might be helpful. I have never really used craigslist, but buying a table saw there is not likely the type of sale there that could get you shot, so that may be a place to look. Aso look for local auctions. If your sunday papers don't have much listed, look on auctionzip.com. They list just about every auction axross the country. |
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http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P If I were going to buy a new one tomorrow, this would be it. |
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Quoted:
An old unisaw is good, too. If its got a 3 phase motor, iI would swap it out for a good 1ph 220v motor. Popular Woodworking had some good videos on restoring a 1940s vintage unisaw that might be helpful. Every time someone swaps a 3 phase motor, an angel loses its wings. 
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The best value for your dollar used will be the 1970 or newer craftsman contractor saw on Craigslist with the motor hanging off the back. Most of these saws model numbers start with a 113 and they were made by Emerson back in the day.
The only one you want to avoid is the flex drive variant. That thing doesn't last nearly as long as the belt driven saws. I have a total of 5, all bought off of Craigslist. I have two bolted side by side to each other with a T2 fence and plan to take the other two cast tops and bolt them together for an out feed table. Why 5? Because they're so inexpensive used that I couldn't go wrong. I hunt for the 3hp version and simply use the motors on my other belt driven tools. I can usually sell the cast iron extensions (wings) on eBay for more or close to than what I pay for the saw on Craigslist. Least I've paid was $40 for a 3hp 113 series. Most was $110. |
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Buy an old Unisaw or better yet, an old Powermatic 66.
But when you step up to a real cabinet saw, please for the love of God, watch a video on table saw safety. Cabinets saw are like a good looking woman...smooth as silk at one moment, but can turn into an unforgiving bitch at the next. Also, if you are going to do a lot of serious work with a table saw, your going to want a decent jointer...most people find that a 6" model is adequate. Basically, this flattens up the edge of stock for rip cuts, so it doesn't bind between the blade and the fence when making a rip cut...this reduces the chance of kickback. This is mine...1980's Unisaw I picked up..built the 52" cabinet/mobile base myself. It has the Unifence, which works great... Fits in a 2 car garage nicely. Yes, you will need to step the juice up to 220V (your wife's dryer outlet will work in a pinch  )
I'll throw in 8" of Delta jointer porn... 1954...cast iron base... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oisIOJXWkPc&feature=youtu.be |