Posted: 12/1/2013 5:38:47 PM EDT
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I carry an M&P9 full size in a galco king tuk. I like the holster, it's broken in and comfortable. But I was doing timed draw-to-fire drills today and noticed if my pull gets a little wonky (pulling at an angle), my front sight catches the bottom of the kydex piece of the holster and prevents a smooth draw. Obviously unacceptable. I wanna flare the bottom edge of the kydex where it hangs up to prevent this. Is it as easy as using a heat gun and reshaping, or what? I've never worked with kydex.. And I don't want to ditch the holster.. But I can't have this issue.
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Quoted:
I carry an M&P9 full size in a galco king tuk. I like the holster, it's broken in and comfortable. But I was doing timed draw-to-fire drills today and noticed if my pull gets a little wonky (pulling at an angle), my front sight catches the bottom of the kydex piece of the holster and prevents a smooth draw. Obviously unacceptable. I wanna flare the bottom edge of the kydex where it hangs up to prevent this. Is it as easy as using a heat gun and reshaping, or what? I've never worked with kydex.. And I don't want to ditch the holster.. But I can't have this issue. Yes. ETA you might try filing or dremeling off the offending area, hard to localize the heat enough to just fix that tiny part. Is this what you're talking about? If you need to remove the part in red, it shouldn't be an issue. Just don't mess with the areas circled in yellow, those affect the retention. Kydex starts doing the shiny shrinky dink thing past 325* in my experience, don't get it past 310 if you like that holster. Any of this will obviously void your warranty. 
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I have modified several holsters with a heat gun. It works fine, but go slow. The difference between "pliable sheets of kydex waiting for your every command" and "dripping plastic that will never be the same again" is only a few seconds with a heat gun. Also, wear leather gloves. |