Posted: 9/14/2013 11:50:22 AM EDT
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Not blowing cold. High side is at 150, low side is at 35. When I rev engine high side stays at 150 and low drops to around 20 or lower.
Low side tube going into firewall is cold and sweating but line coming out of firewall to the dryer is warm. Inside, the evap coil is not getting cold. I think the evap coil may be clogged internally and not letting refrig pass through. Also when I rev engine the low pressure line starts freezing over. And that is the only part getting cold. |
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More likely the orifice tube is clogged than the evaporator. It's located in that connector right at the firewall. Although if something was clogged, you'd probably get much lower readings on the suction side. I've even seen the low side pull a vacuum with a clogged tube.
Unless it's really cool out, 150 psi on the high side seems really low - it should be in the 200 - 300 range. Have you tried adding refrigerant? Here's a chart of low and high pressure readings typical for R134a: 
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Thanks for the reply and the chart!
After further checking the comp started to smoke the clutch. And now the comp is locked up. Surprised it didn't burn the belt in two. Luckily the comp had a 2 year warranty and will get replaced today. After breaking down the system I found no blockage in the evap coil or any other restrictions. The O tube had some gunk but not blocked. The comp has been loud when running ever since I installed it a year and a half ago. But I figured if it was bad, I would just let it crap itself which it did, other than pulling it and loosing all my new freon and oil. Not to mention GM put it in a very tight spot down low and is a b**** to change out. So it lasted a 1 1/2 years and now get to do it again. yay. I do believe I will pull a vacuum on it once together before I bolt the comp back up though. |
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Quoted:
Thanks for the reply and the chart! After further checking the comp started to smoke the clutch. And now the comp is locked up. Surprised it didn't burn the belt in two. Luckily the comp had a 2 year warranty and will get replaced today. After breaking down the system I found no blockage in the evap coil or any other restrictions. The O tube had some gunk but not blocked. The comp has been loud when running ever since I installed it a year and a half ago. But I figured if it was bad, I would just let it crap itself which it did, other than pulling it and loosing all my new freon and oil. Not to mention GM put it in a very tight spot down low and is a b**** to change out. So it lasted a 1 1/2 years and now get to do it again. yay. I do believe I will pull a vacuum on it once together before I bolt the comp back up though. Having the tools makes all the difference. Over the years I picked up a JB vacuum pump for $50 at a pawn shop because it was broken. I had to replace the motor switch and clean out the pump and it works perfectly now. When my Blazer a/c compressor puked a few years ago I was looking at $1,500 at the dealer. (Which is actually higher than the Blue Book value of the truck.) Instead I picked up a new (not rebuilt) compressor and clutch, accumulator/dryer, orifice, o-rings, and PAG oil (everything except refrigerant) on eBay for $160, did the install myself and it works perfectly. One thing I recommend is a flushing kit. Especially when the compressor pukes it tends to spew crap throughout the system. Fifty bucks is cheap to make sure the evap and condenser are clean. Dump in some Kwik Klean (available at many autoparts stores) hook it up to your air compressor and blast all the gunky old oil and foreign material out of the system before you charge it. Good luck! |