[ARCHIVED THREAD] - USB wall plug.. (Page 1 of 3)
Posted: 8/19/2013 11:02:02 AM EDT
|
Do any of you have experience with this wall plug? Good bad ugly? 2.1A per usb.. thats not too shabby.
http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/public/en/wiring_devices/products/receptacles/hospital_grade/_15a/nema_5_15r/usb-hg-tr-receptacles-tr8245.html |
|
USB has various specs.
There is a higher amperage charging version. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Power |
|
Quoted:
Last year I installed several of these in the break/lunch room at the office. Based on the reaction from the employees you would have thought that I had cured cancer 
Can't vouch for other brands, but Cooper is most assuredly good to go. good to hear! Im tiling the kitchen walls and tired of seeing wall warts in there all the time. and thought this might be the way to go. |
|
Quoted:
I've got a couple Pass and Seymour units at home. They are nice to have. Quoted:
Quoted:
well the Wife wanted them so she's off to Lowes now.. Reviews looked good. Meh Ill take one for the team.. and report back.. I've got a couple Pass and Seymour units at home. They are nice to have. Me too. Nice to have. |
|
this is the model shes getting..
http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/public/en/wiring_devices/products/receptacles/commercial/_15a/nema_5_15r/usb_tr7745.html |
|
Quoted:
this is the model shes getting.. http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/public/en/wiring_devices/products/receptacles/commercial/_15a/nema_5_15r/usb_tr7745.html Spec grade is good to go. |
|
Quoted:
the one OP listed is 2.1 A, which is what you need to recharge iPad (unless in sleep mode and I think it will slowly recharge at 1.0A) Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I thought USB is supposed to be about 5A? 5 volts, 1 amp. Sorry, I was just listing the voltage and minimum amperage spec for USB. (Well, minimum from everything I've ever seen) |
|
Quoted: the one OP listed is 2.1 A, which is what you need to recharge iPad (unless in sleep mode and I think it will slowly recharge at 1.0A) Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I thought USB is supposed to be about 5A? 5 volts, 1 amp. I can't tell from the description if it's 2.1a from both ports, or split between them. I have a couple adapters at home, the one that does not split rates itself at 4.2a, the one that splits just says 2 ports at 2.1a. If you connect two devices, they only charge at 1a, which isn't enough for some devices. |
|
Quoted:
Leviton makes them as well. I was going to get one, but then I bought an iPhone charger for $3, threw away the cable, plugged it into the outlet I was going to replace and got what I needed in 21 seconds  I was just looking at that one the other day. I have a tablet that charges on the higher USB voltage. I didn't know if that would work. |
|
Quoted:
I can't tell from the description if it's 2.1a from both ports, or split between them. I have a couple adapters at home, the one that does not split rates itself at 4.2a, the one that splits just says 2 ports at 2.1a. If you connect two devices, they only charge at 1a, which isn't enough for some devices. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I thought USB is supposed to be about 5A? 5 volts, 1 amp. I can't tell from the description if it's 2.1a from both ports, or split between them. I have a couple adapters at home, the one that does not split rates itself at 4.2a, the one that splits just says 2 ports at 2.1a. If you connect two devices, they only charge at 1a, which isn't enough for some devices. what ive seen its 2 at 2.1A each port. you can charge 2 iPads at the same time. |
|
Quoted: wonder what does it use just "idling" probably not much but it is something to think about. Probably a milliwatt or less. Any draw must be dissipated as heat or external power delivered. Modern switch mode power supplies are pretty high efficiency even in off mode. I know if you load them down, they tend to get a bit hot. Used the wife's iPhone 120 volt wall wart-USB to recharge the Kindle and it got very warm. Kindle draws 1.8 amps, the iPhone adapter is rated at 1.2 amps  |
|
Quoted: what ive seen its 2 at 2.1A each port. you can charge 2 iPads at the same time. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I thought USB is supposed to be about 5A? 5 volts, 1 amp. I can't tell from the description if it's 2.1a from both ports, or split between them. I have a couple adapters at home, the one that does not split rates itself at 4.2a, the one that splits just says 2 ports at 2.1a. If you connect two devices, they only charge at 1a, which isn't enough for some devices. what ive seen its 2 at 2.1A each port. you can charge 2 iPads at the same time. http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7745W-BOX-Combination/dp/B00B1GHC58/ref=pd_sim_hi_3 |
|
I have a question: Does the DC part draw any current when there is no USB device plugged in? In other words, is it electrically equivalent to a wall pad that gets left plugged in all the time? ETA the question has been asked on Amazon, back in February, and nobody has answered it yet. I might be interested in the 20 A version but they're pricey. (I rewired my house with all 20 A branch circuits.) |
|
I've installed most of the different USB receptacles, and hundreds of the Cooper TR7740.
The TR7740 is the one that I've had the best luck with. Unrelated to the actual charging part, a great thing about this is that it is standard decora receptacle depth. The only downside is that in order to charge the Ipad 2 and newer, you need to put the IPAD in to standby mode. That's all. Just hit the button at the top and it charges fine. I tell all my customers this is the inconvenience and they are all fine with it, especially since the Ipad battery is awesome and its easy enough to put in to standby (literally just the one button) for charging over night. Other items like the S4 take a little longer to charge than the factory charger, but overnight, obviously no problem. The plus side is that it actually DOES charge everything that I've put on it, including the Samsung Galaxy S4, which brings me to the next one.... The dual receptacle/dual USB Cooper TR7745 does not charge the S4. I do not know why, and Cooper hasn't replied for the reasoning. It honestly makes no sense because the USB port is pretty much identical to the S4 charger from the factory. It's also GFCI size and comes with tails, which makes it a pain and sometimes impossible to fit in the smaller cubic inch boxes, or over filled boxes. The Leviton ones have finicky USB ports and for that reason, I have only installed them when supplied (and that's only been a couple times). The Pass and Semour USB receptacles sucks. Skip them. The off brand name USB receptacle suck. Skip all of them. So there you have it. Cooper 
Leviton 
|
|
As long as it is UL Listed, they are pretty good.
The China knockoffs that aren't UL Listed are easily spotted once opened, very little isolation between mains and USB, not much for overload protection, etc. Fire starts in your house, and they fine ONE Chinese USB block, and your insurance could deny you if the fire was found to be electrical in nature, and in the same room/circuit the non UL Listed USB block was on. --ETA: USB 3.0 is 5V @ 5A (25 Watts) for charging, 1.5 Amps for accessories like hard drives. |
|
Quoted:
I've installed most of the different USB receptacles, and hundreds of the Cooper TR7740. The TR7740 is the one that I've had the best luck with. Unrelated to the actual charging part, a great thing about this is that it is standard decora receptacle depth. The only downside is that in order to charge the Ipad 2 and newer, you need to put the IPAD in to standby mode. That's all. Just hit the button at the top and it charges fine. I tell all my customers this is the inconvenience and they are all fine with it, especially since the Ipad battery is awesome and its easy enough to put in to standby (literally just the one button) for charging over night. Other items like the S4 take a little longer to charge than the factory charger, but overnight, obviously no problem. The plus side is that it actually DOES charge everything that I've put on it, including the Samsung Galaxy S4, which brings me to the next one.... The dual receptacle/dual USB Cooper TR7745 does not charge the S4. I do not know why, and Cooper hasn't replied for the reasoning. It honestly makes no sense because the USB port is pretty much identical to the S4 charger from the factory. It's also GFCI size and comes with tails, which makes it a pain and sometimes impossible to fit in the smaller cubic inch boxes, or over filled boxes. The Leviton ones have finicky USB ports and for that reason, I have only installed them when supplied (and that's only been a couple times). The Pass and Semour USB receptacles sucks. Skip them. The off brand name USB receptacle suck. Skip all of them. So there you have it. Cooper <a href="http://s425.photobucket.com/user/svh19044/media/IMAG1797_zps7b68f7ca.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp333/svh19044/IMAG1797_zps7b68f7ca.jpg</a> <a href="http://s425.photobucket.com/user/svh19044/media/IMAG1293_zpsd1be7607.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp333/svh19044/IMAG1293_zpsd1be7607.jpg</a> <a href="http://s425.photobucket.com/user/svh19044/media/IMAG0741-1_zpsf3c53902.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp333/svh19044/IMAG0741-1_zpsf3c53902.jpg</a> Leviton <a href="http://s425.photobucket.com/user/svh19044/media/IMAG1706_zps4f5cf6e5.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp333/svh19044/IMAG1706_zps4f5cf6e5.jpg</a> My wife likes to charge her phone in the kitchen, with the outlet near the sink. Do they have those with GFIC or does it matter? |
|
Quoted:
My wife likes to charge her phone in the kitchen, with the outlet near the sink. Do they have those with GFIC or does it matter? Quoted:
Quoted:
I've installed most of the different USB receptacles, and hundreds of the Cooper TR7740. The TR7740 is the one that I've had the best luck with. Unrelated to the actual charging part, a great thing about this is that it is standard decora receptacle depth. The only downside is that in order to charge the Ipad 2 and newer, you need to put the IPAD in to standby mode. That's all. Just hit the button at the top and it charges fine. I tell all my customers this is the inconvenience and they are all fine with it, especially since the Ipad battery is awesome and its easy enough to put in to standby (literally just the one button) for charging over night. Other items like the S4 take a little longer to charge than the factory charger, but overnight, obviously no problem. The plus side is that it actually DOES charge everything that I've put on it, including the Samsung Galaxy S4, which brings me to the next one.... The dual receptacle/dual USB Cooper TR7745 does not charge the S4. I do not know why, and Cooper hasn't replied for the reasoning. It honestly makes no sense because the USB port is pretty much identical to the S4 charger from the factory. It's also GFCI size and comes with tails, which makes it a pain and sometimes impossible to fit in the smaller cubic inch boxes, or over filled boxes. The Leviton ones have finicky USB ports and for that reason, I have only installed them when supplied (and that's only been a couple times). The Pass and Semour USB receptacles sucks. Skip them. The off brand name USB receptacle suck. Skip all of them. So there you have it. Cooper <a href="http://s425.photobucket.com/user/svh19044/media/IMAG1797_zps7b68f7ca.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp333/svh19044/IMAG1797_zps7b68f7ca.jpg</a> <a href="http://s425.photobucket.com/user/svh19044/media/IMAG1293_zpsd1be7607.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp333/svh19044/IMAG1293_zpsd1be7607.jpg</a> <a href="http://s425.photobucket.com/user/svh19044/media/IMAG0741-1_zpsf3c53902.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp333/svh19044/IMAG0741-1_zpsf3c53902.jpg</a> Leviton <a href="http://s425.photobucket.com/user/svh19044/media/IMAG1706_zps4f5cf6e5.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp333/svh19044/IMAG1706_zps4f5cf6e5.jpg</a> My wife likes to charge her phone in the kitchen, with the outlet near the sink. Do they have those with GFIC or does it matter? You either need to put it on the load side of a GFCI and have it downstream (as in if the receptacle you wish to replace is fed from an outlet on the other side of the counter, you just make sure that the wiring comes from the load side of the GFCI that feeds the USB), or the circuit needs to be on a GFCI breaker. They do not make a combination USB/GFCI at this moment, nor do I think they will for the foreseeable future do to the physical size that the device would have to be. |
|
I have an HP Touchpad that is rather finicky about what chargers it will take a charge from and which ones it will smile nicely at when you plug it in, then continue discharging till dead. It's OEM charger is something like 2.2 or 2.4 amps.
Any idea if these will feed the TP? |
|
Quoted:
You either need to put it on the load side of a GFCI and have it downstream (as in if the receptacle you wish to replace is fed from an outlet on the other side of the counter, you just make sure that the wiring comes from the load side of the GFCI that feeds the USB), or the circuit needs to be on a GFCI breaker. They do not make a combination USB/GFCI at this moment, nor do I think they will for the foreseeable future do to the physical size that the device would have to be. Thanks for the info and the help, I appreciate it. |
|
Quoted:
My wife likes to charge her phone in the kitchen, with the outlet near the sink. Do they have those with GFIC or does it matter? There should be isolation between the USB port and the line in the receptacle. The GFCI is only for the 120V service, so that would be from an upstream outlet, if it is USB only, it's isolated, so there is no common ground to fault to. |