Posted: 9/27/2012 2:50:35 PM EDT
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by Formlabs
They are offering the printers for $2300 in their fundraising campaign http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/formlabs/form-1-an-affordable-professional-3d-printer 3D printers are getting better 
http://formlabs.com/pages/our-printer 
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Formlabs-
"We estimate ongoing resin prices of around $149 per liter, but Kickstarter supporters who buy a Form 1 print package will be guaranteed at least 1 liter per month for $129 ($0.13 per cubic centimeter) or cheaper for the life of their printer." Not to bad for a laser activated resin rapid prototyper. If they could do a wax too, then the ability to custom make lost wax molds would be much cheaper. |
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The resolution is impressive, 0.012" with a minimum layer thickness in the Z axis of 0.001". I had a machine that would do media powder additive printing, it cost north of $40,000, 5-6 years ago. Media costs (powder, infiltrant, binder, ink, etc) ran close to $0.93 a cubic centimeter. The cost of entry into 3D printing is rapidly dropping, between 3D Systems getting into the desktop printing game, and the various Rep Rap and MakerBots. |
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The resolution is impressive, 0.012" with a minimum layer thickness in the Z axis of 0.001". I had a machine that would do media powder additive printing, it cost north of $40,000, 5-6 years ago. Media costs (powder, infiltrant, binder, ink, etc) ran close to $0.93 a cubic centimeter. The cost of entry into 3D printing is rapidly dropping, between 3D Systems getting into the desktop printing game, and the various Rep Rap and MakerBots. Yep it's like 128kb drives were impressive at one point. 
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Quoted: Quoted: The resolution is impressive, 0.012" with a minimum layer thickness in the Z axis of 0.001". I had a machine that would do media powder additive printing, it cost north of $40,000, 5-6 years ago. Media costs (powder, infiltrant, binder, ink, etc) ran close to $0.93 a cubic centimeter. The cost of entry into 3D printing is rapidly dropping, between 3D Systems getting into the desktop printing game, and the various Rep Rap and MakerBots. Yep it's like 128kb drives were impressive at one point. I can remember when my 386 had a "Turbo" button on the front case, which was actually an underclock button. Press the "Turbo" button and the 386 chip would run full power, otherwise it was underclocked. Now the cell phone in my pocket has more processing power than that, and I can run DOSBox on it. The future looks very exciting for technology when you look at it from that perspective. |
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Quoted: In before the new technical AR15 receiver printing forum and before the first ARFCOM'er goes to Federal Prison for printing up an open bolt design. I like the idea of that tech forum, digital drafting and rapid prototyping. I'll even volunteer to be a mod. |
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Quoted: Its too bad with that build volume you could only make a GI Joe. I think they missed the mark pretty far on that issue. True, but it is a step in the right direction, and you can easily create parts or components of larger assemblies. Harvard has been doing a lot of research into automated articulation which make larger scale rapid prototyping easier to do. Previously there was a trade-off between resolution and build volume. With the move to SL and using mirrors to direct the laser across the media, rather than belts and gears; finer resolution and larger build volumes are possible, just not cheap right now. Harvard release In the days of powder media, the 3d print tech would have to position the model so that the powder density was greatest at the places where structural support was needed (powder closer to the media tray was denser than on the opposite side of the x,y axis). Now that is less of a concern, however even current SLS machines still use a counter-rotating roller bar to spread the build media across the build surface. |
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The resolution is impressive, 0.012" with a minimum layer thickness in the Z axis of 0.001". I had a machine that would do media powder additive printing, it cost north of $40,000, 5-6 years ago. Media costs (powder, infiltrant, binder, ink, etc) ran close to $0.93 a cubic centimeter. The cost of entry into 3D printing is rapidly dropping, between 3D Systems getting into the desktop printing game, and the various Rep Rap and MakerBots. Yep it's like 128kb drives were impressive at one point. I can remember when my 386 had a "Turbo" button on the front case, which was actually an underclock button. Press the "Turbo" button and the 386 chip would run full power, otherwise it was underclocked. Now the cell phone in my pocket has more processing power than that, and I can run DOSBox on it. The future looks very exciting for technology when you look at it from that perspective. In the future, you will be able to print your phone. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: The resolution is impressive, 0.012" with a minimum layer thickness in the Z axis of 0.001". I had a machine that would do media powder additive printing, it cost north of $40,000, 5-6 years ago. Media costs (powder, infiltrant, binder, ink, etc) ran close to $0.93 a cubic centimeter. The cost of entry into 3D printing is rapidly dropping, between 3D Systems getting into the desktop printing game, and the various Rep Rap and MakerBots. Yep it's like 128kb drives were impressive at one point. I can remember when my 386 had a "Turbo" button on the front case, which was actually an underclock button. Press the "Turbo" button and the 386 chip would run full power, otherwise it was underclocked. Now the cell phone in my pocket has more processing power than that, and I can run DOSBox on it. The future looks very exciting for technology when you look at it from that perspective. In the future, you will be able to print your phone. I saw something back a while ago where some engineering students had made a two nozzle printer and where using it to print complete circuit boards inside test boxes. No seams. In 10 years we may be able to print IC's and other components directly inside a volume without needing to solder, or assemble or otherwise manufacture. So yes, you could print a working phone sometime in your lifetime. |
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It's called the Form 1, does that mean I have to pay $200 first and wait about six months? I don't think so, but I want an expert opinion. If you can finish an 80% lower, why can't you print one? You don't have to Form 1 a lower you make from a block of aluminum, do you? 
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Quoted: Quoted: It's called the Form 1, does that mean I have to pay $200 first and wait about six months? I don't think so, but I want an expert opinion. If you can finish an 80% lower, why can't you print one? You don't have to Form 1 a lower you make from a block of aluminum, do you? The printer is called Form 1, not talking about the ATF. And yes you can print a lower if you want...   |
| How close are we to getting a 3D printer that can create stuff with aluminum? As in, consumer buys a block of a certain grade aluminum somewhere, an attachment that plugs into maybe a 30A electrical outlet begins to melt it down, printer then "prints" some item. |
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It's called the Form 1, does that mean I have to pay $200 first and wait about six months? I don't think so, but I want an expert opinion. If you can finish an 80% lower, why can't you print one? You don't have to Form 1 a lower you make from a block of aluminum, do you?
Form1 is only needed for self-built SBRs or AOWs. Serial number is only needed if it's going to be sold IIRC. |
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Quoted: How close are we to getting a 3D printer that can create stuff with aluminum? As in, consumer buys a block of a certain grade aluminum somewhere, an attachment that plugs into maybe a 30A electrical outlet begins to melt it down, printer then "prints" some item. Aluminum melts at 1,221 F... might as well have a forge or do the casting, however the 3D printer can be used to create a casting mold. A couple of the 3D Systems SLS printers can do tool steel this way, but not directly. For more info on materials currently available in the 3d printing industry I would recommend checking out Shapeway's material section |
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The printer is called Form 1, not talking about the ATF. And yes you can print a lower if you want... http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7208/7137536019_8886708bf0.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7052/6991452854_449459e326.jpg Tits. I'm debating whether I should buy a Replicator 2 in January or wait until the next gen ABS model is released. I'm not sure the durability of PLA, but the models I print will essentially serve as positives for making silicone molds for glass- or fiber- filled resin casting anyway. |
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How close are we to getting a 3D printer that can create stuff with aluminum? As in, consumer buys a block of a certain grade aluminum somewhere, an attachment that plugs into maybe a 30A electrical outlet begins to melt it down, printer then "prints" some item. Aluminum melts at 1,221 F... might as well have a forge or do the casting, however the 3D printer can be used to create a casting mold. A couple of the 3D Systems SLS printers can do tool steel this way, but not directly. I believe the metal "printers" use a sintering process that creates a brittle part until it is fully sintered in an oven. (very simple explanation) |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: How close are we to getting a 3D printer that can create stuff with aluminum? As in, consumer buys a block of a certain grade aluminum somewhere, an attachment that plugs into maybe a 30A electrical outlet begins to melt it down, printer then "prints" some item. Aluminum melts at 1,221 F... might as well have a forge or do the casting, however the 3D printer can be used to create a casting mold. A couple of the 3D Systems SLS printers can do tool steel this way, but not directly. I believe the metal "printers" use a sintering process that creates a brittle part until it is fully sintered in an oven. (very simple explanation) Correct, its called a "Green Mold" and is very brittle, as are most powder media prints prior to infiltration, casting. coating or glazing. |
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How close are we to getting a 3D printer that can create stuff with aluminum? As in, consumer buys a block of a certain grade aluminum somewhere, an attachment that plugs into maybe a 30A electrical outlet begins to melt it down, printer then "prints" some item. They need to make them from an epoxy like JB Weld. In fact if I owned JB Weld, I would be spending a lot of cash on R&D to be the leader in this field. |
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I believe the metal "printers" use a sintering process that creates a brittle part until it is fully sintered in an oven. (very simple explanation) Yeah I think the future of the technology will basically become a MIM process, not injected but instead using a deposition process to layer powdered metal with a fluxing compound as the vehicle into the model. Or the printer prints using whatever means necessary to build up the model. To "weld" the part it has to be heated to the powdered metal's critical temperature, fusing the powder into one piece. I think the process can be used with a variety of steel and aluminum alloys; so long as the powder granules are the same size the printer won't care what material it's laying out. All that matters is the finishing temperature. I give it less than 10 years before the technology is garage-level feasible and dudes are printing aluminum receivers at home. |
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It's called the Form 1, does that mean I have to pay $200 first and wait about six months? I don't think so, but I want an expert opinion. If you can finish an 80% lower, why can't you print one? You don't have to Form 1 a lower you make from a block of aluminum, do you?
The printer is called Form 1, not talking about the ATF. And yes you can print a lower if you want... http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7208/7137536019_8886708bf0.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7052/6991452854_449459e326.jpg What machine was used to print that? Looks to be higher quality and resolution than most DIY I have seen... |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: It's called the Form 1, does that mean I have to pay $200 first and wait about six months? I don't think so, but I want an expert opinion. If you can finish an 80% lower, why can't you print one? You don't have to Form 1 a lower you make from a block of aluminum, do you? The printer is called Form 1, not talking about the ATF. And yes you can print a lower if you want... http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7208/7137536019_8886708bf0.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7052/6991452854_449459e326.jpg What machine was used to print that? Looks to be higher quality and resolution than most DIY I have seen... Zcorp Spectrum Z 510, now owned by 3D Systems, and I believe replaced by the 650 which has a min feature size of 0.004". Uses powder and binder (very fine plaster of paris, and sucrose ink) to print a rather robust green model which is then infiltrated with proprietary resins for a high strength finish, or a salt water solution for a weaker structural finish. edit* After infiltration, the model above survived multiple 6' drop tests onto a ceramic tile floor without any visible damage. |
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The Shapeways 3d metal printing process: http://www.shapeways.com/themes/stainless_steel_3dprinting_gallery |
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That a ring or a bracelet? Pretty amazing if it's a ring. It's got resolution of .001"... if they can print down to the thousandth of an inch, it could be the size of a pearl and still look that good. The difference between this and something like the Makerbot is that the MB is a plastic printer, this is stereolithography. |
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How close are we to getting a 3D printer that can create stuff with aluminum? As in, consumer buys a block of a certain grade aluminum somewhere, an attachment that plugs into maybe a 30A electrical outlet begins to melt it down, printer then "prints" some item. Aluminum melts at 1,221 F... might as well have a forge or do the casting, however the 3D printer can be used to create a casting mold. A couple of the 3D Systems SLS printers can do tool steel this way, but not directly. I believe the metal "printers" use a sintering process that creates a brittle part until it is fully sintered in an oven. (very simple explanation) Correct, its called a "Green Mold" and is very brittle, as are most powder media prints prior to infiltration, casting. coating or glazing. Not all the technology out there use such methods. 
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Each year these 3d printers get closer and closer to being available to the average consumer. Imagine all of the cool things that you can make or invent in your garage at a professional level. 
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Could you make a pmag body with this? You could, but it would be expensive But it would make a magazine ban unenforceable... 
Assuming you could get springs. If one were trying to make an AR-15 magazine in a situation of material availability duress, one could instead use the function of the old Beta-Mag Eagle magazines. These magazines, to function, require only a simple magazine body, a follower, and a flat spring made by rolling a thin strip of steel and heat treating it. One end of this spring is fixed to the magazine body, and the other to the follower. As the magazine is loaded, the spring "unrolls", and thus under the force of the springs elastic memory, applies upward pressure on the follower. Addition of a floor-plate is optional but not required. |
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Could you make a pmag body with this? You could, but it would be expensive I don't know, at 15 cents per cubic centimeter the rook they made was 5.3 centimeters tall and 13 cm^3 to match the retail price of $14.20, that gives you 94.7 cm^3 to work with... Plus the resin is light gray so then you can use rit dye to make it any color you want! Custom plastic-mag business here I come! |
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Could you make a pmag body with this? You could, but it would be expensive I don't know, at 15 cents per cubic centimeter the rook they made was 5.3 centimeters tall and 13 cm^3 to match the retail price of $14.20, that gives you 94.7 cm^3 to work with... Plus the resin is light gray so then you can use rit dye to make it any color you want! Custom plastic-mag business here I come! Polymer magazines benefit greatly from advanced materials which do not lend themselves to 3D printing. Why do you think we called Thermolds, Thermelts? Craptastic plastic results in cratastic magazines. That said, as a duress manufacturing method for contingencies, I see your point. |