Posted: 8/4/2012 5:18:55 AM EDT
Thanks guys! http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_134/1351210_Issues_with_my_98_Accord__either_deals_with_the_hub_or_the_axle_nut_____.html |
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Really all depends. If you grab the tire at 6 and 12 and get movement when you rock it back and forth it's a good chance it's your wheel bearings. Grab it at 3 and 9 and get wobbling your tie rod could be wrecked. That's kind of a quick check, I would guess with the resistance that your bearings went though.
Eta: you said rear so disregard. |
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Really all depends. If you grab the tire at 6 and 12 and get movement when you rock it back and forth it's a good chance it's your wheel bearings. Grab it at 3 and 9 and get wobbling your tie rod could be wrecked. That's kind of a quick check, I would guess with the resistance that your bearings went though. Eta: you said rear so disregard. Being on the rear it's probably a bearing and not suspension related. OP, when you wiggle the tire is it just the tire/wheel assembly moving or are is there movement in any of the suspension arms? If not, it's the wheel bearing, if so, you found the/another problem. Can you see the drum/rotor shifting as you shake the wheel also? If so I'd say wheel bearing. I am ASE certified for suspension & steering, and do suspension work daily, I would be thinking wheel bearing if you brought the vehicle to my shop and gave the description you did, first thing I'd check. Without being there it's hard to say for sure though. |
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Not a mechanic but I own a few accords one of them being a 98 (5speed).
The suspension in the back is very basic, you'd think a visual would give you any clues if it was related to that. I'd take it to a mechanic and just be done with it, wheel bearing issues can be catastrophic in some vehicles. |
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Watch these videos. Easy peasy.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjFMq0OitXo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sr-whebYgaEBig help. but I forgot one step 
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I got that, I just need to know what size bolt to replace it with. |
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I got that, I just need to know what size bolt to replace it with. Couldn't you call a dealership's service dept? |
| Been doing this crap for 25 years bust it off if need be, it's not an important part considering you are replacing the bearing. All that screw is there for is to hold the rotor on during assembly. When I run into that situation I grab the smoke wrench and just cut them out. |
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Looks like M6-1.0
check the parts stores in the "help" section. Lowes depot tends to suck when it comes to metric fasteners. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Help-8-pcs-M6-disc-brake-rotor-retaining-screw-for-Honda/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=68840 |
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Been doing this crap for 25 years bust it off if need be, it's not an important part considering you are replacing the bearing. All that screw is there for is to hold the rotor on during assembly. When I run into that situation I grab the smoke wrench and just cut them out. Did the rear rotors on our Kia recently...had a bit of problem with the same screw. Put a couple of adaptors on an impact wrench (until I could get a 1/4" socket mounted)...then put in a Phillips Head bit...came right out. AFARR |
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Been doing this crap for 25 years bust it off if need be, it's not an important part considering you are replacing the bearing. All that screw is there for is to hold the rotor on during assembly. When I run into that situation I grab the smoke wrench and just cut them out. Did the rear rotors on our Kia recently...had a bit of problem with the same screw. Put a couple of adaptors on an impact wrench (until I could get a 1/4" socket mounted)...then put in a Phillips Head bit...came right out. AFARR So its not important? Good. |
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Been doing this crap for 25 years bust it off if need be, it's not an important part considering you are replacing the bearing. All that screw is there for is to hold the rotor on during assembly. When I run into that situation I grab the smoke wrench and just cut them out. Did the rear rotors on our Kia recently...had a bit of problem with the same screw. Put a couple of adaptors on an impact wrench (until I could get a 1/4" socket mounted)...then put in a Phillips Head bit...came right out. AFARR So its not important? Good. You can replace it easily enough, but the original ones went right back in place (I just tightened them enough with a regular phillips screw driver)...they weren't too buggered up (yours don't look too bad if you can get them out in that condition...the impact wrench helps a lot). AFARR |
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If the hub nut is off, then keep applying liberal amounts of hammer strikes till it comes loose. |
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If the hub nut is off, then keep applying liberal amounts of hammer strikes till it comes loose. Pretty much this. Does it spin freely? The inner race *may* be mechanically welded to the spindle. It might take some effort to get it off. |
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put axle nut back on loose, put wheel back on, drop car on ground. Push it back and forth a bit (don't drive it like that obviously).
Try rear axle bearings on a toyota truck. Now that is a fun job (requires a press and either buying a really expensive tool or fabricating one). ETA: Don't know shit about Hondas. Are these sealed bearings or regular tapered style wheel bearings? If sealed, disregard previous advice, you are gonna need moar tools. |
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The damn hum is stuck to the axle. Now what do i do? Go to Autozone and borrow a puller. Buy it, use it, return it, they return your money. This should work, but you may leave the inner race stuck on the spindle. If that happens you are in for a lot more fun. |
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Do the words "pressed on" mean anything to you, because they should. That would make sense if the cups were stuck in the hub, but the cones shouldn't be stuck to the axle (assuming traditional bearing design). Last time I ran into this myself, the bearing had seized, and the cone inner race was seized to the axle. I had to get a new stub axle since it was too rough to clean up (it was a bitch to get the bearing off, also; it was really seized on). |
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Lots of good advice so far.
The easiest way is probably using a puller. You might get it off with a hammer though if you can't get a puller. If the race is seized to the spindle, best method of getting it off is with a torch, or a cut-off wheel. If you think the job is now beyond your capability, see if you can pull that whole spindle off and take it to a shop. They shouldn't charge too much to fix it at that point. |
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Watch these videos. Easy peasy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjFMq0OitXo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sr-whebYgaEAfter carefully torque wrenching every unnecessary thing under that car, he buzzes the lug nuts on with an impact... Is he serious??? |
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Watch these videos. Easy peasy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjFMq0OitXo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sr-whebYgaEAfter carefully torque wrenching every unnecessary thing under that car, he buzzes the lug nuts on with an impact... Is he serious??? Torque stik? |
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Well....? How did you get it off? Working better? Wanna come to PA and help with my output bearings in my differential (they have a hum)?....
AFARR I got it done, The were two ball bearings shattered as well as the final piece at the head of the axle was slpit in half. New one went on without any issues and just got back from the road test |
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Well....? How did you get it off? Working better? Wanna come to PA and help with my output bearings in my differential (they have a hum)?....
AFARR I got it done, The were two ball bearings shattered as well as the final piece at the head of the axle was slpit in half. New one went on without any issues and just got back from the road test I prolly should have mentioned it, but did you double check the spindle to make sure it wasn't scored/scratched/roughed up? If it is, your new bearings might not last very long. And did you use axle grease anywhere? |