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Quoted: You are having machine work done anyway so why not let them do it? I don't think i've been charged even. You trying to balance or something? trying to do as much of it as i can, myself. i will be getting the assembly balanced after i check the clearances and such. |
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Quoted: The flame an a gas kitchen stove will get the rod eyes hot enough to allow a 2-3 second window of opportunity to slide the pin in. Have everything lined up an ready to go, then hear a couple of rods at a time. Best to do it when the SO is out of the house. what about the oven at ~500 for however long itd take to get it to 500? |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
You are having machine work done anyway so why not let them do it? I don't think i've been charged even. You trying to balance or something? trying to do as much of it as i can, myself. i will be getting the assembly balanced after i check the clearances and such. So you are just trying to press them out? Not following what you are planning. |
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A piece of all-thread, a couple of fender washers and a couple of nuts can do it for you. To remove them you will need a sleeve that will fit over the all-thread and be smaller diameter than the pin, then another sleeve loose fit over the pin for it to slide into. Slow but cheap. Some images using sockets are linked in in this thread: http://www.yfzcentral.com/forum/32-yfz-powertrain/57681-remove-wrist-pin.html |
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Quoted:
You are having machine work done anyway so why not let them do it? I don't think i've been charged even. You trying to balance or something? This. Anytime you try to half ass something instead of buying the right tool you have to ask your self what is the cost of failure vs paying someone to do it. Get the machine shop to do it when they balance them. |
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Quoted:
I wouldn't guess around with it. IIRC it is a nice bit of heating and timing to get these right... Yes it does! I've done it (once). A fantastic learning experience! I now use floating pins exclusively, no matter fucking what. Quoted:...you have to ask your self what is the cost of failure...
If you hairline crack the piston and it comes off the rod it's not like it is going to do any damage... |
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This is the tool you need to replicate to do it. http://www.auto-maintenance.net/conrod-heater_p153.html |
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Quoted: Quoted: i will be getting the assembly balanced after i check the clearances and such. You can not balance that engine once the pins are pressed into place. The parts must be seperate. He can definitely weight match his rods, both ends separately, and his pistons as well by hand if he has good fixtures and a excellent scale. But they better be really close and he better record them so who ever balances the crank can figure the bob weight correctly. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
i will be getting the assembly balanced after i check the clearances and such. You can not balance that engine once the pins are pressed into place. The parts must be seperate. He can definitely weight match his rods, both ends separately, and his pistons as well by hand if he has good fixtures and a excellent scale. But they better be really close and he better record them so who ever balances the crank can figure the bob weight correctly. Yes he can, But he can't after he presses it all together. Ya gotta do the weighing/trimming first. |



