Posted: 4/24/2012 9:48:10 AM EDT
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I have a '91 Mazda B2600i 4x4 with 5spd, mileage somewhere north of 220k. I started having clutch issues and shifting problems a few months ago, and along with a soft pedal, thought the slave cylinder was pulling air into the system. So, I replaced the slave cylinder, bled the system, and things seemed to be fine. The pedal had more "feel", and I stopped having shifting issues....until now. The problem has gotten worse, and now I will completely lose the clutch all together, with the pedal sticking to the floor. It seems to be worst in reverse, but will occasionally do it in 1st. You can pull the pedal back up and use the clutch, and will still shift OK from 2nd-5th. However, 1st and reverse remain an issue.
I'm really hoping I don't have to replace the clutch, as it is not making any noise and there is no chattering or squealing under load. Any chance this is simply the master cylinder? Any suggestions? |
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Had the same truck with pretty much the same issue. I think I only had the slave cylinder replaced, I can't remember exactly. I would lose all pedal pressure and be stuck in 1st gear. If you let the truck sit for a while and cool down, it would be usable again for a while. I'd try replacing the master cylinder.
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Do you sit at lights holding the pedel down? Drips? Is sitting at the light with the clutch pedal depressed bad? Keeping the pedal down (clutch disengaged) allows the transmission input shaft to spin freely in the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft and the throwout bearing. This accelerates wear of the pilot bearing and throwout bearing, and is unecessary. With the pedal out and clutch engeaged (transmision in neutral) while waiting at a stop light, the transmission input shaft is locked with the crankshaft and therefore not spinning in the pilot bearing and throwout bearing. You should only use the pedal to change gears and try to keep it depressed to a minimum amount of time, to reduce wear on the bearings. |
| I think I'm on my 12th slave cylinder on Rangers, Bronco IIs, Exploers and F-150s! I've only ever replaced 2 master cylinders during those 12. I've see the slaves go bad within 3 months of putting one in. Putting a master in first really isn't a bad idea, the part is cheap and relitively easy to replace. I've had to replace the hose in each case as well, as the pin that holds it in to the master cyl rusted in (minnesota rust sucks). |
| With that many miles, it could involve other components as well. Check and make sure you don't have any worn out pins and linkages in the clutch pedal to master cylinder connection. Check to make sure the pressure plate is still in working order: no broken springs, release levers not bent or broken. In short, give the whole system a once over. |
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Do you sit at lights holding the pedel down? Drips? Is sitting at the light with the clutch pedal depressed bad? I learned to drive a manual on bikes quads but(aka big sis(rip) got me past city limits) on my first heep. Cable or hydro will still have drag even more if out of adjustment or leaking causing drag on the disc/s flywheel. It's best to pop out of gear at a stop/traffic if you won't be moving. Other manual tips are an engine and trans cost more than brakes. So unless you have a reason use the brake pedal to slow down. One reason i like manual transmissions is the fun when letting it hang out. Only on a closed circuit and under adult supervision can you play with the balance of nature. Physics will kick your ass. |
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Do you sit at lights holding the pedel down? Drips? Is sitting at the light with the clutch pedal depressed bad? Keeping the pedal down (clutch disengaged) allows the transmission input shaft to spin freely in the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft and the throwout bearing. This accelerates wear of the pilot bearing and throwout bearing, and is unecessary. With the pedal out and clutch engeaged (transmision in neutral) while waiting at a stop light, the transmission input shaft is locked with the crankshaft and therefore not spinning in the pilot bearing and throwout bearing. You should only use the pedal to change gears and try to keep it depressed to a minimum amount of time, to reduce wear on the bearings. Never thought about that much. It does make sense, now that you explain it. Guess I need to re-learn myself how to sit at the light. |
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Do you sit at lights holding the pedel down? Drips? Is sitting at the light with the clutch pedal depressed bad? Keeping the pedal down (clutch disengaged) allows the transmission input shaft to spin freely in the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft and the throwout bearing. This accelerates wear of the pilot bearing and throwout bearing, and is unecessary. With the pedal out and clutch engeaged (transmision in neutral) while waiting at a stop light, the transmission input shaft is locked with the crankshaft and therefore not spinning in the pilot bearing and throwout bearing. You should only use the pedal to change gears and try to keep it depressed to a minimum amount of time, to reduce wear on the bearings. Never thought about that much. It does make sense, now that you explain it. Guess I need to re-learn myself how to sit at the light. I used to hold the clutch pedal in at lights myself. Didn't understand how the clutch system worked until I worked on my own car and found a thin ring of metal and bunch of fine metal dust where a pilot bearing used to be. |
| Check to make sure that your fluid lines are not pinched. I had a problem with my brakes, one of the front calipers occasionally would not release = pinched line. One of the mechanics must have let the whole caliper assembly hang down without support thus bending the pipe. It was hard to diagnose without removing everything again to check it out. |
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Do you sit at lights holding the pedel down? Drips? Is sitting at the light with the clutch pedal depressed bad? Keeping the pedal down (clutch disengaged) allows the transmission input shaft to spin freely in the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft and the throwout bearing. This accelerates wear of the pilot bearing and throwout bearing, and is unecessary. With the pedal out and clutch engeaged (transmision in neutral) while waiting at a stop light, the transmission input shaft is locked with the crankshaft and therefore not spinning in the pilot bearing and throwout bearing. You should only use the pedal to change gears and try to keep it depressed to a minimum amount of time, to reduce wear on the bearings. Never thought about that much. It does make sense, now that you explain it. Guess I need to re-learn myself how to sit at the light. At least for me as you learn your surrounds you'll know when its time to just neutral coast to a light, reduce speed area, etc so you'll already be in neutral with the foot off the clutch coming up to the stop. 141k on my 98 accord still with factory clutch setup. |