Posted: 4/4/2012 6:43:22 AM EDT
So I'm building a new AR. I'll be picking up the lower on Saturday when my FFL gets back in town. I'm looking for suggestions for components. Some criteria:
There are no price restrictions on any parts. I'm picking up a Noveske Gen 2 lower to be the base for the build and am thinking of using a Vltor Vis Rifle Length upper with a Noveske 16" SS barrel. But no other part has been purchased yet, that's just my leanings at the moment. I'm also looking at Noveske's re-profiled (thinner) lighter weight SS barrels, or sending it off for re-profiling myself. Also looking at Nitride treatments...nothing is out of the question right now. Yes, this is overkill. No, I don't need all this. Yes, it is my money. Yes, I already have cheaper rifles. 
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Sounds like you have the more critical components picked out....
I've never used a 2-stage trigger myself, but in researching my own build...... When it comes to a 3gun comp, you are simply doing yourself a dis-service by not running with a 2-stage.. By far, the most publicly acclaimed 2-stage setup I've read people commenting on is the Geissele Super Semi-Automatic (SSA) . You''re looking at over $200 for the trigger group, but I haven't seen one comment stating it wasn't worth it. Other desirable options are adjustable triggers, allowing for adjustable resets, tension, etc... but you have to be savvy with these devices to "tweak" it for maximum customized performance for you. Most people simply practice enough till the trigger assembly is as familiar to them as their first car. Sounds like your set on a DI system, so as long as you get a good upper assembled, you should be fine. You're only real decision for the DI is going to be length.... Carbine or Mid-Length. Many people run the Carbine without issues, many also run the Carbine with intermittent issues... Comparing the lengths, the gas system and functional theory.. I personally choose a gas system that places my gas block as close to 7.6" from the barrel end as possible (not less). So, for a 16" barrel, I use a Mid-Length gas system. Also, with a longer gas system, iron sights (if you like them) can be placed for a more accurate shot. Of course, any issues with the Carbine length gas system can often be easily over come by using the proper weighted buffer. The flash hider is a personal preference as it really doesn't affect what you want to use the gun for. Having a 16" barrel allows you to remove/change the hider at will. A great review I saw on one is the Trifecta RS from Silencerco. Bravo Company makes great products and really reliable Bolt Carrier Groups. I'd just recommend getting a complete BCG from one company, and make sure it matches with your barrel chambering for proper headspace. It's not a bad idea to get your barrel and upper from the same company as well... Especially if you elect the M4 feed ramp options. The last thing you want is a mix/match of these.... Either because both components have the M4 ramps, but different manufacturers cut them differently, causing the ramp cuts to not line up right. Or... One component has the ramp cuts and another doesn't. Choose your chamber... if going with the 5.56/.223 option; its practical to ensure your upper and barrel are configured for the 5.56 NATO round giving you versatility (you can shoot 5.56 and .223 ammo without issue), but if you go with a .223 chamber; you cannot shoot 5.56. Also, consider going the old AR-10 style and rock a .308 caliber! These are quickly gaining popularity, and have better range. As a person with a .30 cal bias (I started with a 30-30 lever action and currently hunt with a 30-06 bolt action); my 2nd build will be a .308. As for lowers and their parts kits.... I haven't seen much to set one apart from another.. Spike Tactical is my choice on my first build because they are milspec and 7075 Aluminum (like all other quality lowers). The selling factor was the price point ($99, which has currently been raised to $115) and that many people have commented a nice snug fit with the uppers, eliminating the need for an "accu-wedge". Palmetto State Armory makes a quality lower for a slightly lower price, and they have good reviews as well. You can get a completed lower, or build your own, it's totally personal choice. I'm building mine, but Spikes offers a real snazy lower built with LPK (no extension tube or grip) for $315 with some features you may find desirable (adjustable trigger group, but only 1 stage I think). As far as LPKs (Lower Parts Kits), again, if they are providing the standard trigger group, there isn't much to set each apart from another.... Read the reviews.. The biggest thing I found people talking about one over the other was the "feel" of the trigger pull. Some stated that various manufacturers had a "gritty" feel to it. That's why I chose the Palmetto State Armory LPK, numerous reviewers comment on how smooth and crisp the trigger pull/break was. These kits run in the neighborhood of $60-$80 for the typical set. Others go up from there, but mostly because of different trigger groups included, like those that include the Geissele Super Semi-Automatic (SSA), improved pistol grips or trigger guard, etc. As for barrel materials... Well... you've got SS (Stainless Steal), Chromolly or Chrome lined (the traditional 3). There is a new player in the game called "melonite" as well, but not as familiar as the first 3. Each of these materials have their pros and cons and I won't spark a 30 page debate over which is "better". Do some searching and decide for yourself which material best fits your needs. You also will want to consider barrel thickness... Thicker barrel = sustained accuracy over extended firing, but also = more front weight which can hinder your accuracy in a 3gun more than a hot thinner barrel. Some barrels are "fluted" to try to get the best of both worlds... Again, search the topic, read the pros and cons and decide which is more sufficient for your style and capabilities. If you're rocking your own 'guns' (left and right), barrel weight may be nothing to you, but if you have a less strong upper body, a pound or 2 can have huge differences on your grouping. Lastly grips... Now, I'm not talking quad rails, smooth finish or some hybrid of the two.... I'm talking barrel mounted or free floating. The theory is that a barrel "oscillates" (spins in a small circle) as the bullet passes through it. This will naturally throw the accuracy off a bit, but that's why you "sight" in your gun. The thing is, is that if something is allowed to interfere with the barrel, then the compensation made with your sights cannot be consistent and your groups cannot be as tight. What interferes with the oscillation? Anything touching the barrel, such as the pressure from you holding the grips around the barrel, including using vertical or angled front grips. The alternative is a free-floated barrel. Here, your grips are mounted to a receiver ring on the upper instead of the barrel. They are a bit more of a pain to take on and off and a little less versatile than the barrel mounted grips, but you have nothing external to interfere with your gun's ability to shoot consistently (besides your choice of ammo of course). I mentioned that the "theory" is.... because many people will state they have just as tight of groups with free floated weapons as none and that free floating is over rated... Others will swear by it when tight groups count. Others will say its true, but only applies to weaker barrels, thin barrels, barrels that are impractically hot, etc... In other words, they may say that the conditions for free floating to be noticeably beneficial are not practical conditions. Me personally... I'm a free floating fan and do that to every gun I can; I'm also an NRA Certified Sharp Shooter, so I believe in the benefits and am not just following some fad. So there ya go, that's all I've learned from my research thus far... Hope that helps. |
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I am assuming you do not already have an AR-15. In that case I would go with a mid length A4 carbine with 16" bbl. I have one like this and mine has the Geisselle super dynamic 3 gun trigger. This has a beautiful trigger pull and a very short reset. I have had several folks try and talk me into an unlined barrel. Their argument is it is more accurate. To me an AR is a battle rifle and should be able to go for days or weeks without maintenance. In my opinion the durability of the chrome chamber and bore is more important than a slight (maybe) improvement in accuracy. As I said, I have a BCM Mid length. It has an Aimpoint PRO Optic and I have ordered a suppressor
I am in the process of building an A2 rifle. It will have a cold hammer forged barrel that is chrome lined. I am not sold on chrome bolts or bolt carriers. The reason is hard chrome is mildly abrasive. If I used a HC bolt than I am concerned the lugs in the barrel will become worn. The phosphate coating IMO is the best finish on bolts and carriers. Chrome lined carriers are fine. Another issue with chrome plating performance parts is that the parts must be baked within one hour to provide relief from hydrogen embrittlement. If that is not done or done on time, than the parts become brittle. There is no way to repair the parts! |
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Quoted:
I am assuming you do not already have an AR-15. In that case I would go with a mid length A4 carbine with 16" bbl. I have one like this and mine has the Geisselle super dynamic 3 gun trigger. This has a beautiful trigger pull and a very short reset. I have had several folks try and talk me into an unlined barrel. Their argument is it is more accurate. To me an AR is a battle rifle and should be able to go for days or weeks without maintenance. In my opinion the durability of the chrome chamber and bore is more important than a slight (maybe) improvement in accuracy. As I said, I have a BCM Mid length. It has an Aimpoint PRO Optic and I have ordered a suppressor I am in the process of building an A2 rifle. It will have a cold hammer forged barrel that is chrome lined. I am not sold on chrome bolts or bolt carriers. The reason is hard chrome is mildly abrasive. If I used a HC bolt than I am concerned the lugs in the barrel will become worn. The phosphate coating IMO is the best finish on bolts and carriers. Chrome lined carriers are fine. Another issue with chrome plating performance parts is that the parts must be baked within one hour to provide relief from hydrogen embrittlement. If that is not done or done on time, than the parts become brittle. There is no way to repair the parts! Quoted:
Yes, I already have cheaper rifles. |
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I'm using NiB-X coated upper receivers from WMD on my last couple builds. They're slick and fit together well with various lowers.
I like the idea of a nitrided barrel. Looking into that treatment myself for a new stainless barrel on a new build. (I already have one nitrided barrel from Superior and a nitrided 416R BHW barrel from Parallax Tactical.) Polygonal rifling. NiB BCG's with ionbond gas rings. Barrel? 16" Recce? 18" SPR? Rails? I'm loving the new Rainier Evolution series. Light weight! Trigger? Geiselle SSA or SSA-E. So much better than standard... |
