Posted: 12/30/2011 1:28:00 PM EDT
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Spent about an hour last night trying to mount my new scope to my AR.
I want the reticle to be strait and level? i feel like an idiot, is there a trick or tool aside from "eyeballing" it? |
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they make scope/scope mount levels search for wheeler scope level |
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I just eyeball it. If you want near perfection you could probally rig soemthing up to hold the rifle straight then use a level.
It helps to eyeball it with a horozontal surface thats sorta far away, I usually use window blinds at 30 yards, or the roof line of a neighbors house, ect.. |
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http://i44.tinypic.com/cqg4y.jpg Straight –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– way to contribute to this thread 
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Yup, level your upper receiver, then use a plum line or door frame to level the crosshairs.
The level level level is great until you realize there are an awful lot of scopes out there that don't have the turrets and reticule perfectly in line. ETA - if that's the case your elevation adjustment will be FUBAR most likely....... |
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Quoted: Quoted: http://i44.tinypic.com/cqg4y.jpg Straight –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– way to contribute to this thread The question has already been answered so I pointed out a mistake the OP may want to fix in the future. Deal with it. |
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http://i44.tinypic.com/cqg4y.jpg Straight –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– way to contribute to this thread The question has already been answered so I pointed out a mistake the OP may want to fix in the future. Deal with it. So you posted just to be a grammar nazi? Wow way to go cool guy. |
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A couple of ways, but because it becomes so critical past 600-700 yards for a sight height above 2" I use all of them...
1) Feeler gauges. If your using a one piece base has a flat spot under the scopes turret housing that is level with the rail, then using the correct thickness of feeler gauges to level the bottom of the turret housing to this flat surface on the base (or rail) will level the scope. This does assume the crosshairs are not canted inside the scope which can and does happen with some frequency in less expensive scopes. 2) plum line and levels. Place a level onto the top of your rifle on the rail and a plum line attached to a target. The line should hang freely so that the weight pulls it straight down. level the rifle and with the rings loose rotate the scope until it matches the line. tighten the rings a little (and evenly) and check again. If its still level, torque to spec and test. I do both of these then I confirm using a box test method which will also show if the scope is tracking correctly. If this rifle is used at less then 500-600 yards then a small degree of cant is not going to cause a major issue and the 2nd method will be plenty close by itself. |
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Everyone holds the gun at a different angle. I shoulder the gun and line the vertical crosshair with a door jamb and the horizontal cross hair on the door header, seems to work well for me.  This and a string w/ a weight is the way I am going to go. And STRAIGHT you cocksuckinmothafucka 
(I thought it was kinda funny) |
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I use two line levels. You can pick them up at Wal Mart for pretty cheap. If I remember correctly they are less than $2. I mount the rifle in a vice, taking all the proper precautions to not mar it. I then put one level on either the picatinny rail or the half of the scope ring to get the rifle level. I then put the scope or optic in the rings and put the other level on the top adjustment dial (with the cap off). With a picatinny rail you can keep the one level on the rail and the other one on the optic. This ensures you don't move the rifle while mounting the scope. ETA: A quick cell phone picture of what I'm talking about. A string works fine for a scope, but not so much for a red dot.  |
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http://i44.tinypic.com/cqg4y.jpg Straight –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– way to contribute to this thread The question has already been answered so I pointed out a mistake the OP may want to fix in the future. Deal with it. So you posted just to be a grammar nazi? Wow way to go cool guy. It wasn't done in a rude way. Basic spelling, a skill all should work to have. |
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I use a feeler gauge between the scope and the mount. Works pretty good unless your reticule is canted, and if it is then most likely your turrets are as well. Not a problem until dialing lots of elevation, and you find your POI drifting off to the side. That's what I do for high end scopes on picatinnys. Then check with eyeball for straightness. Lots of scopes have canted reticles. Some rifles also have a flat behind the action that you can throw a hand level on or you can put a level on the picatinny and hope you don't move anything while you affix the scope. I just saw a wheeler kit that has a level that clamps to a round barrel and another smaller level for on top of the scope cap. About $50 but I don't see how you acheive rifle level by clamping to a round barrel. ETA- I guess I figured it out. You need a hand level as well, level the rifle in a vise with the hand level across the base/picatinny mount, then affix the Wheeler barrel clamp and level that. Now you can remove the hand level on the scope mount and put your scope on. Sorry, I'm a tad slow some days. I'll also place the muzzle on the floor and scan in line with the two buttplate screws to the verticle cross hair for another eyeball check. Backing up like that helps putting things in perspective. |