Posted: 12/26/2011 8:12:36 AM EDT
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I just installed a 60 gallon stationary air compressor in my garage, and wanted to run some rigid pipe from the compressor to the regulator. The outlet on this compressor is 3/8" FPT. I was going to use copper for the pipe, because it's much easier to cut to size and solder than to cut/thread black or galvanized pipe. Would 1/2" pipe work in this case? I don't know if going from 3/8" to 1/2" (upsizing) would matter, or it if would affect the amount of airflow, etc.
Hope I got my terminology right. Thanks for your advice. |
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I just installed a 60 gallon stationary air compressor in my garage, and wanted to run some rigid pipe from the compressor to the regulator. The outlet on this compressor is 3/8" FPT. I was going to use copper for the pipe, because it's much easier to cut to size and solder than to cut/thread black or galvanized pipe. Would 1/2" pipe work in this case? I don't know if going from 3/8" to 1/2" (upsizing) would matter, or it if would affect the amount of airflow, etc. Hope I got my terminology right. Thanks for your advice. Should be fine either way,I'd probably use 1/2 copper for a little more snap.That's the way we did it at the shop anyhow.Bigger pipe has more vol. but less velocity. |
| How about using one of these> Cheaper than copper and less likely to work harden and split. Shop Air lines |
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I just installed a 60 gallon stationary air compressor in my garage, and wanted to run some rigid pipe from the compressor to the regulator. The outlet on this compressor is 3/8" FPT. I was going to use copper for the pipe, because it's much easier to cut to size and solder than to cut/thread black or galvanized pipe. Would 1/2" pipe work in this case? I don't know if going from 3/8" to 1/2" (upsizing) would matter, or it if would affect the amount of airflow, etc. Hope I got my terminology right. Thanks for your advice. Copper is the best choice. Black pipe is good, but prone to small leaks. Stay away from PVC or plastics. (there are explosion hazards, plus you lose the vitally important heat sink properties) You didn't mention the length. The longer the run, the larger you want. 1/2" is fine for sub 50' length from tank to regulator. 3/4" is better, but for simple systems, overkill. Remember to slope your line down stream, and have a purgeable trap before turning upwards for your output to a regulator/drop. E. |
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Quoted: In my way of thinking, up sizing can only help. You are adding more storage volume and reducing restriction. What are you going to use for material? If you are going to use PVC I would recommend Sch 80. do not use pvc for air in any circumstance. we ran 3/4 rigid copper through our shop with 1/2" drops and will probably run a 3/4" drop for sandblasting. not near as much chance of failure with rigid. we're running a 10 hp speedaire.
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It's been said multiple times, and OP isn't going to use it but for anyone reading that may be thinking about it...
Do Not Use PVC. I've seen PVC air lines explode. There's a lot of sharp plastic flying around afterwards. Yeah, it's just plastic, but what's your vision worth? Do Not Use PVC. |
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It's been said multiple times, and OP isn't going to use it but for anyone reading that may be thinking about it... Do Not Use PVC. I've seen PVC air lines explode. There's a lot of sharp plastic flying around afterwards. Yeah, it's just plastic, but what's your vision worth? Do Not Use PVC This |
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It's been said multiple times, and OP isn't going to use it but for anyone reading that may be thinking about it... Do Not Use PVC. I've seen PVC air lines explode. There's a lot of sharp plastic flying around afterwards. Yeah, it's just plastic, but what's your vision worth? Do Not Use PVC. We just replaced all the PVC lines the boss installed years ago in our shop. It's amazing how fast he had us do it when it started exploding and shooting plastic shrapnel all over the productin floor. |
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How about using one of these> Cheaper than copper and less likely to work harden and split. Shop Air lines I saw that kit, but my total run will be less that 50'. I'm at just under $100 including fittings if I use copper. And yes it bears repeating: DON'T USE PVC. Thanks everyone. Sounds like 1/2" copper is the ticket. How much slope would be required for a 25' run? |
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Quoted: Quoted: How about using one of these> Cheaper than copper and less likely to work harden and split. Shop Air lines I saw that kit, but my total run will be less that 50'. I'm at just under $100 including fittings if I use copper. And yes it bears repeating: DON'T USE PVC. Thanks everyone. Sounds like 1/2" copper is the ticket. How much slope would be required for a 25' run? 1" or maybe little more. just enough to get it running to the drain. eta: they make a fitting called 'sharkbite' that is supposedly good to 200psi for use on pex and copper http://www.cashacme.com/prod_sharkbite.php i don't see it recommended for air, but i don't know why you wouldn't......
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Quoted: I just installed a 60 gallon stationary air compressor in my garage, and wanted to run some rigid pipe from the compressor to the regulator. The outlet on this compressor is 3/8" FPT. I was going to use copper for the pipe, because it's much easier to cut to size and solder than to cut/thread black or galvanized pipe. Would 1/2" pipe work in this case? I don't know if going from 3/8" to 1/2" (upsizing) would matter, or it if would affect the amount of airflow, etc. Hope I got my terminology right. Thanks for your advice. I'm surprised the outlet is only 3/8", not 1/2". I wouldn't use copper, merely because I don't care for all the soldering, but copper probably should work fine. ETA: when my best friend's shop was closed down (work sent to Mexico), he handed me a load of parts and tubing that was being trashed, which is just like the pictured items in the link from Northern Tool. Personally, that's how I'd go, but depending on your situation, copper might be even better. |
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What psi can copper handle? I don't know for sure,but most shop air is around 90-120 psi,copper is good for way more than that I suspect. That's directly related to wall thickness, pipe grade, joint factor, and temperature. The latter two on that list are probably of little consequence. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
Use a flexible hydraulic line from the compressor to your hard lines, that way you have a buffer to prevent fractures and leaks. I also mounted my compressor on isolators bolt to the floor. This cuts down on noise a little bit and vibrations a lot. I plumbed up two different circuits one for dry air and oiled air. The first is a regulator/filter/water separator feeding a lower micron filter/water separator with expansion for a dessicant filter. The second line uses the same regulator/filter/water separator as the other line feeding an oiler. I also installed a overpressure pop-off valve at the head of the main line after the ball-cock shutoff.
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1/2 steel will work great. Not that i'm an asshole but shut lines off and bleed when you put on a new water separator. 200PSI will make you jump.
Drain your tank. Should add drops on verticle runs with a valve for the same purpose. ETA:Also oil is only bad sometimes so deal with it there and encourage it elsewhere. |
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I just installed a 60 gallon stationary air compressor in my garage, and wanted to run some rigid pipe from the compressor to the regulator. The outlet on this compressor is 3/8" FPT. I was going to use copper for the pipe, because it's much easier to cut to size and solder than to cut/thread black or galvanized pipe. Would 1/2" pipe work in this case? I don't know if going from 3/8" to 1/2" (upsizing) would matter, or it if would affect the amount of airflow, etc. Hope I got my terminology right. Thanks for your advice. 1/2" is kinda small...we use 2-1/2" for long runs and then to 1" finally to ½" and 3/8" at the quick disconnects. We also use ¼" to 4" air hose to drive valve actuators and pneumatic tools. Our air is usually at minimum of 300 cfm at 150 psi at the compressor outlet and then regulated down at the quick disconnects. Might as well use as large a pipe you can so you don't lose airflow. If you use copper, use K (green lettering) or L (usually blue) type pipe. There is an M type pipe, but it's pricey and doesn't have any additional benefit. There are options like Garage-Pak that is aluminum and comes with all the fittings and regulators. From the outlet to the rigid pipe I'd suggest using a hose like this to isolate the pipe from compressor vibration. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/HOSE-MASTER-Flexible-Metal-Hose-6MP28?Pid=search At my primary and satellite facilities we have about 100 compressors and blowers of all types and capacities, with the current expansion we've installed about 15 compressors and 4 blowers in the last calendar year. ETA: Use unions like this around your regulators and filters. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/NIBCO-Union-1WLJ7?Pid=search They'll make life so much easier when you have to replace those components. mm |
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I just installed a 60 gallon stationary air compressor in my garage, and wanted to run some rigid pipe from the compressor to the regulator. The outlet on this compressor is 3/8" FPT. I was going to use copper for the pipe, because it's much easier to cut to size and solder than to cut/thread black or galvanized pipe. Would 1/2" pipe work in this case? I don't know if going from 3/8" to 1/2" (upsizing) would matter, or it if would affect the amount of airflow, etc. Hope I got my terminology right. Thanks for your advice. 1/2" is kinda small...we use 2-1/2" for long runs and then to 1" finally to ½" and 3/8" at the quick disconnects. We also use ¼" to 4" air hose to drive valve actuators and pneumatic tools. Our air is usually at minimum of 300 cfm at 150 psi at the compressor outlet and then regulated down at the quick disconnects. Might as well use as large a pipe you can so you don't lose airflow. If you use copper, use K (green lettering) or L (usually blue) type pipe. There is an M type pipe, but it's pricey and doesn't have any additional benefit. There are options like Garage-Pak that is aluminum and comes with all the fittings and regulators. From the outlet to the rigid pipe I'd suggest using a hose like this to isolate the pipe from compressor vibration. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/HOSE-MASTER-Flexible-Metal-Hose-6MP28?Pid=search At my primary and satellite facilities we have about 100 compressors and blowers of all types and capacities, with the current expansion we've installed about 15 compressors and 4 blowers in the last calendar year. ETA: Use unions like this around your regulators and filters. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/NIBCO-Union-1WLJ7?Pid=search They'll make life so much easier when you have to replace those components. mm I love arf. 5hp in a garage to 3" feed for a plant. |
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Quoted: Quoted: I love arf. 5hp in a garage to 3" feed for a plant. Gloffie's garage is larger than most hangars I've worked in. mm If it's that big be sure to factor in 90's and tee's for a DP calc. It would suck to plumb 1/2" pipe and then find out that it won't run a 1/2" impact wrench across the shop. |
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I love arf. 5hp in a garage to 3" feed for a plant. Gloffie's garage is larger than most hangars I've worked in. mm snip My humor may not be yours/snip Hell if we are running screws we're gonna need bigger tanks. I mean cfm over capacity but this seems home shop. Just saying what works and is safe.
I over exaggerated but i've seen feeds let loose. I learned to sweat copper about the time i could ride a bike. If you want to go that route just use hose and tie the hell out of it. Air preasure isn't a joke and will hurt you. |
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Great input everyone. I appreciate it.
My garage is a small 2 car. So huge runs won't be a problem. I already have a lead-in hose for connecting the compressor to the start of the rigid line. The compressor itself is only 3.5HP. I didn't have a line that would support a 50A breaker, so I went with a smaller one (plus it was a hell of a deal). MadBodhi, great diagram. I'll study it. 
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Great input everyone. I appreciate it. My garage is a small 2 car. So huge runs won't be a problem. I already have a lead-in hose for connecting the compressor to the start of the rigid line. The compressor itself is only 3.5HP. I didn't have a line that would support a 50A breaker, so I went with a smaller one (plus it was a hell of a deal). MadBodhi, great diagram. I'll study it. If it's a little dinkie compressor like that and just a two car garage I'd just plug a 3/8" rubber line into it. There is zero need for hard lines. If you want a small setup for a water filter (and possibly an oiler) that is another matter, but only requires 3' of wall space. The ideal hose for that application would be a 25' 1/2" line, but they are a little hard to find. |
| I ran two galvanized 3/4 lines in my garage, one to the carport door and one by the main door, +1 to the soft line disconnect. Vibration and the ability to easily remove the compressor if need be. Plenty of pressure, never had a leak, mine are hung in the rafters and drop down with a QD fitting on each end plus a shut off above those. |
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junkxp, I know you were just poking fun.
Gloffie, it'd be much easier to get a hose reel, 3/8" hose and some quick disconnects. For our portables, we've welded up some frames to mount filters, separators, etc. We just hook up a hose to each end of the assembly and use an appropriate sized inline oiler for the tools. You could probably make a frame out of wood. ETA: I like AR15Texan's set up. mm |
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I ran two galvanized 3/4 lines in my garage, one to the carport door and one by the main door, +1 to the soft line disconnect. Vibration and the ability to easily remove the compressor if need be. Plenty of pressure, never had a leak, mine are hung in the rafters and drop down with a QD fitting on each end plus a shut off above those. You're supposed to use black iron (gas) pipe, not the galvanized water pipe. The galvi coating can shed. |
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I ran two galvanized 3/4 lines in my garage, one to the carport door and one by the main door, +1 to the soft line disconnect. Vibration and the ability to easily remove the compressor if need be. Plenty of pressure, never had a leak, mine are hung in the rafters and drop down with a QD fitting on each end plus a shut off above those. You're supposed to use black iron (gas) pipe, not the galvanized water pipe. The galvi coating can shed. Haven't seen any yet and black pipe can rust due to the water content in compressed air and shed rust particles. FWIW, we use ONLY galvanized pipe in nat gas installations as black pipe is, in many places, required to be painted if exposed to the elements while galvanized is exempt for that requirement. |
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Just an update:
The kit listed above (this one from Northern Tool) ended up being cheaper than using copper, and got put on sale for $90 bucks so I couldn't pass it up. The push fittings go together VERY fast, and hold pressures up to 150PSI. The tube is tough to straighten out, so I ran it inside some class 200 PVC. The install looks neater that way than having crooked blue tube snaking everywhere. Thanks for all the advice.
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