Posted: 5/9/2011 6:29:28 PM EDT
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Seriously how's it work?
What is the difference in colors? Why does one brand have a red high strength and one have a blue high strength? |
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It's pressure activated. Colors typically indicate strength: Green: low Blue: medium Red: high (considered "permanent" and may require heat application to remove) Yep - although the colors vary by brand. there's a black one that's considered permanent but I forget who makes it. |
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Quoted: Quoted: It's pressure activated. Colors typically indicate strength: Green: low Blue: medium Red: high (considered "permanent" and may require heat application to remove) Yep - although the colors vary by brand. there's a black one that's considered permanent but I forget who makes it. The silver kind from Miller/Lincoln/ESAB is absolutely permanent  . |
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It's pressure activated. Colors typically indicate strength: Green: low Blue: medium Red: high (considered "permanent" and may require heat application to remove) Yep - although the colors vary by brand. there's a black one that's considered permanent but I forget who makes it. The silver kind from Miller/Lincoln/ESAB is absolutely permanent .
Nope, you just need to apply heat to remove any permanent threadlocker.
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Use the primer on stainless steel  We tried to use a Loctite product (638) normally used for bearing retention as a thread locker week before last - Hertel Locktite told me it was good to go. 
The surfaces were cleaned, primer applied, and retention compound applied to both surfaces; the repair part was threaded on about 2/3rd's when the locker cured! Due to circumstances I won't detail, we had to turn the repair off, heat was not an option. Then a couple of test parts with large nuts and bolts were tried. The locker cured in 26 seconds with the primer, in less than 90 seconds without. We switched to Loctite 277 for the next attempt, after making a new repair detail - we lucked out by having material on hand. During the ongoing comedy, a torque wrench with a four foot handle was destroyed. |
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Loctite 262 - aka "red" Loctite. This is "permanent". Can be removed by heating with a torch and some solvents. Use this only if you intend the part to never come off.
Loctite 242 - aka "blue" Loctite. This is "service removable". Use this for scope mount and base screws. It will prevent loosening, but allow removal. It will turn to a white powder upon removal that some mistake for corrosion. Loctite 222 - aka "purple" Loctite is also "service removable", and not as strong as 242 ("blue"). Great for set screws, other small fasteners. "Designed for precision metal fasteners under 19mm." Also good for gunsmithing. Loctite 290 - aka "green" Loctite. 290 is often used in electronics, and is easier to remove than 242. It is also a "service removable" threadlocker. It is used on nuts and screws on circuit boards, adjustable components (trim pots, capacitors, etc). Apply to nuts and adjustments after making them up. It is very low viscosity (watery) and wicks into the threads well. I use all of these products. ETA: There is also a purple colored Loctite product that is used for sealing threads on fitting in hydraulic systems, instead of using teflon tape and getting pieces of teflon in the system. Just apply a few drops to the threads of the fitting and screw it on. It is about the same color and viscosity as 222, but it is clearly marked as being a thread sealer, not a thread locker. Loctite #545: Thread Sealant Hydraulic/Pneumatic Sealant (Loctite PURPLE) |
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One will loosen with a little force the other needs heat or a big fucking prybar to remove. use heat.. i dropped some read locktight on some half inch bolts. I took a 4 foot cheater bar to it and spun the bolt in half to get a nut back off. nut and bolt will be locked together for ever. New U-bolts were required. Dont use red if you ever imagine having to remove it.. |