Posted: 1/24/2011 7:57:44 AM EDT
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I need to purchase a sharpening system as I suck with stones. I want something that assists in keeping the correct angle so the Lansky is an obvious choice. I will be sharpening everything from 2.5" pocket knives to 10" bowies to kitchen cutlery. Basically, I want something that requires as little patience as possible. [%\]
Is there anything else I should know or any other system I should consider? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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The lansky works, I've got two.
Once you have set the angle right and have an edge you don't need it, you can touch up the blade with steel. I only use the Lanskys on knives I build, the Spyderco's, Cold Steel Tanto's and Buck's that I have all get touched up with steel.. |
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Quoted:
I need to purchase a sharpening system as I suck with stones. I want something that assists in keeping the correct angle so the Lansky is an obvious choice. I will be sharpening everything from 2.5" pocket knives to 10" bowies to kitchen cutlery. Basically, I want something that requires as little patience as possible. [%\] Is there anything else I should know or any other system I should consider? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile I've been using a Lansky now for about 4-5 years. They work well on straight edges. Recurve blade designs will give you fits with keeping the angle consistent. The biggest drawback to the Lansky Sytem (IMHO) is that as you get nearer to the knife tip, the angle of the stones will change. It doesn't matter if you keep the steel bar against the bottom of the guide slots...as you sharpen blade areas further from the clamp point (where clamp is on blade), the angle will become more acute. I've noticed this on short blades (3") and especially on longer blades. Anybody willing to argue need simply clamp up a simple spear or clip point blade and proceed through the sharpening process. When finished, look at the freshly sharpened edge and follow it from ricasso to tip. I guarantee you'll see an angle change a 1/2" or so from the blade tip. For this reason, I'll use the Lansky for touchups, but would rather make grind angle changes with an Edgemaker. I intend to get an Edgmaker of my own very soon. |
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I have the Lansky and the Gatco sharpening systems. The Gatco is like the Lansky but better. It uses longer and wider stones so it works the edge more with each stroke making for quicker sharpening. I like the design and build of the materials better too.
Both systems work great on short knives but longer knives take a long time. You can do about 4" of blade without having to move your clamp. Anything more than that and you have to move the clamp with each stone to work the rest of the blade. This makes an 8" blade take twice as long to sharpen as a 4" and a 9-12" blade three times as long. |
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i got the sharpmaker but for reason i am not that happy with it, i cant seem to get knives super sharp with it Sharpmaker only offers two angles, doesn't it? And they're the wrong two. 40° isn't an edge, it's a wedge. Even if the Lansky isn't consistent, at least it gives a selection from 30° to 17° (IIRC) so after a whole lot of work you can reshape the factory wedge into a decent cutting edge. IMHO, and all that. |
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I have the Lansky and the Gatco sharpening systems. The Gatco is like the Lansky but better. It uses longer and wider stones so it works the edge more with each stroke making for quicker sharpening. I like the design and build of the materials better too. Both systems work great on short knives but longer knives take a long time. You can do about 4" of blade without having to move your clamp. Anything more than that and you have to move the clamp with each stone to work the rest of the blade. This makes an 8" blade take twice as long to sharpen as a 4" and a 9-12" blade three times as long. I like the gatco a little bit better than the Lansky for the same reasons too. |
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I have the Lansky and the Gatco sharpening systems. The Gatco is like the Lansky but better. It uses longer and wider stones so it works the edge more with each stroke making for quicker sharpening. I like the design and build of the materials better too. Both systems work great on short knives but longer knives take a long time. You can do about 4" of blade without having to move your clamp. Anything more than that and you have to move the clamp with each stone to work the rest of the blade. This makes an 8" blade take twice as long to sharpen as a 4" and a 9-12" blade three times as long. I like the gatco a little bit better than the Lansky for the same reasons too. Ditto. I wore-out the stones on my Gatco within a year –– because I was sharpening just about everything in the collection with it. So I replaced all of the stones with the daimond ones and have been happy ever since. I recommend that people considering these systems just spend a few bucks more and start with the diamond stones, because they'll last a LOT longer. |
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I have one of these and used to used it a lot. I don't use very often any more.
It's a great way to get a sharp knife without the learning curve of a traditional flat stone. Especially if you don't have a mentor to show you the ropes. As already stated, longer blades are harder to do with the Lansky. I prefer diamond "stones" they last longer, stay flat longer and cut quicker. Sharpening by hand on a traditional flat stone can be very hard to master. I started when I was 12 and didn't get very good at it until I was 35. I tend to be a slow learner. Most people, if they're patient, can get good much quicker. |
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I have used the Lansky system for years, but I have since learned to hand sharpen on a flat stone (medium Arkansas), keeping the stone wet with water and I must say I produce a much better edge.
While it's not as "razor sharp" as the edge I could get from the Lanksys, it produces a much longer lasting edge and seems to cleave better, rather than having to saw back and forth through things. Hand sharpening puts a slightly convex edge to it which gives the edge the durability. I also didn't like the way the angle got flatter as it goes toward the tip with the Lanksys either. Also, 4" blade seemed to be the practical limit. |
| Got one for Xmas. I brought it back to buy one of those hand held ones with the angled wheel stones. The guy at the shop talked me out of it say, yeah it's pretty goofy looking but it's the best sharpener you'll ever own. I kept it and it lasted for about 10 years. Bought another a year ago for like 15 bucks. Good stuff! |
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I have a lansky and a gatco diamond set. I use the lansky clamp with the gatco diamond stones from coarse to fine then polish the edge with the lansky red (blue handle red stone)....my blades will shave and last a damned good while with me cutting cardboard by the yard as well as cable.
This is on my CPM 440V Spyderco Military |
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I've used a Lansky diamond set for many years. I added the metal holder thingie and ultra fine (ceramic) stone, and can now get a razor's edge every time. There is a learning curve (basically to count strokes, do the same # of strokes on each side, and lessen the pressure on each stone with each stroke), but once you learn it it is EASY to get a very, very sharp blade.
I always like the "biggest and bestest" but I ended up not buying an Edge Pro, as my Lansky is more portable and works too well to abandon. 
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Quoted: Is it worth the extra $$ for the Pro kit over the standard? The Pro includes a serrated hone and an Ultra fine hone. I don't really use serrated knives and I don't care for finely polished edges. It seems like a waste for me personally. Get the Diamond kit, I wore out a regular set (medium and coarse stone) in a couple years. Diamond set has 10+ years on it and still working fine. |
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Is it worth the extra $$ for the Pro kit over the standard? The Pro includes a serrated hone and an Ultra fine hone. I don't really use serrated knives and I don't care for finely polished edges. It seems like a waste for me personally. Get the Diamond kit, I wore out a regular set (medium and coarse stone) in a couple years. Diamond set has 10+ years on it and still working fine. I wore out the medium diamond stone and the blade holder––they replaced them without issue. Everything has a lifetime warranty.
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I got this for my birthday and couldn't be happier: http://www.edgepro.co.uk/images/ApexKit-3.jpg More expensive than the Lansky (by a factor of FIVE!!), but I couldn't get the same results when I tried the Lansky a few years ago (I think they have a special "Texan" version––just a chunk of sandstone to rub the blade on, so no one gets hurt). I am finally able to sharpen knives and actually have them turn out scary sharp. I bet you neglect to put beans in chili too. 
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I need to purchase a sharpening system as I suck with stones. I want something that assists in keeping the correct angle so the Lansky is an obvious choice. I will be sharpening everything from 2.5" pocket knives to 10" bowies to kitchen cutlery. Basically, I want something that requires as little patience as possible. [%\] Is there anything else I should know or any other system I should consider? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile I've been using a Lansky now for about 4-5 years. They work well on straight edges. Recurve blade designs will give you fits with keeping the angle consistent. The biggest drawback to the Lansky Sytem (IMHO) is that as you get nearer to the knife tip, the angle of the stones will change. It doesn't matter if you keep the steel bar against the bottom of the guide slots...as you sharpen blade areas further from the clamp point (where clamp is on blade), the angle will become more acute. I've noticed this on short blades (3") and especially on longer blades. Anybody willing to argue need simply clamp up a simple spear or clip point blade and proceed through the sharpening process. When finished, look at the freshly sharpened edge and follow it from ricasso to tip. I guarantee you'll see an angle change a 1/2" or so from the blade tip. For this reason, I'll use the Lansky for touchups, but would rather make grind angle changes with an Edgemaker. I intend to get an Edgmaker of my own very soon. I too have noticed this. Give me fits. Once the edge is where I like it, it does work great. |
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I've heard good things about the Lansky, but I haven't used one. I've used the Spyderco Sharpmaker and it worked well, but I put it on the shelf in favor of a set of paper wheels. Now I can get a knife scary-sharp in about 5 minutes even if the edge started *really* bad, and touch-up a fairly good edge in a minute or two. Just need a buffer/grinder a set of wheels and you're in business. It's not hard to learn how to do it, either. The hardest parts are just pulling the blade across the wheel at a consistent speed and not going up/down the wheel to change the edge angle. |
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Quoted: Quoted: I got this for my birthday and couldn't be happier: http://www.edgepro.co.uk/images/ApexKit-3.jpg More expensive than the Lansky (by a factor of FIVE!!), but I couldn't get the same results when I tried the Lansky a few years ago (I think they have a special "Texan" version––just a chunk of sandstone to rub the blade on, so no one gets hurt). I am finally able to sharpen knives and actually have them turn out scary sharp. I bet you neglect to put beans in chili too. For once I get to be an equipment snob and claim "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR" since I'm usually the biggest cheapskate on the site.  |
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i got the sharpmaker but for reason i am not that happy with it, i cant seem to get knives super sharp with it Sharpmaker only offers two angles, doesn't it? And they're the wrong two. 40° isn't an edge, it's a wedge. Even if the Lansky isn't consistent, at least it gives a selection from 30° to 17° (IIRC) so after a whole lot of work you can reshape the factory wedge into a decent cutting edge. IMHO, and all that. It's 40 total for 20 per side which is perfect for a daily use pocket knife. It is what Spydercos come with from the factory. |
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Another problem I've had with Lansky (besides blades over 8") is double edged knives. The clamp thing just doesn't work right with them, and most of the double edged I have need some serious reshaping done that would take way too long with the Sharpmaker. So either I leave them in a drawer & dull or rely on an old fashioned flat stone. That's my preferred option anyway, but I don't have the range from course to ultra fine like the Lansky system gives. Well, that and the fact that I can only consistently do one angle on a whetstone instead of two that I need to rebuild a crappy factory edge.
ETA- I know that many people consider 30° - 40° to be a useful and durable edge, that "you can't chop down a tree with a razor or shave with a cleaver" but I like a more acute angle and (more important) like most of my blades to have the same edge since I can only rely on myself to hold at 25° with flat stone. |
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Once you go stone, you don't go back. Well, for me they're just expensive paperweights. I can't figure it out no matter how much I read about and practice sharpening. I wish I could find someone in person who is really good and and willing to teach me. I've had a few offer but they were all as bad as I. The last guy that was going to teach me to sharen scratched the shit out of the sides of my blade. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Buy yourself one of the large 3 sided stones (the ones that sit in a holder) and an ultra-fine diampnd stick for final edge work and your good. Lankys and similar systems are ok but overkill IMHO. Something like an Orvis stone would be best: http://www.orvis.com/store/product.aspx?pf_id=39Y4 You just need to be patient. eta: i have a Lanskey system my wife got me years ago, I never used it after I learned to do it by hand. |
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Quoted: Quoted: I bought myself the full boat EdgePro as a Christmas present, I'll never go back to anything else. Completely blew my socks off. Aren't they like tree fitty??  The base kit is $350, yes. Functionally it is the same as the Apex, although it is much beefier in general with a sturdier mount and can accept the scissor attachment. There are ways to modify the Apex to accept the scissor attachment, or at least I heard rumors about people doing so years ago over at BladeForums. I figure amortized over the next 30-40 years or so, depending on how long I live and have my full faculties the price doesn't sting as bad. I bought the Pro3 kit and other than needing the odd stone once every several years I'm now done with sharpening purchases for the rest of my life. |
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Quoted: Buy yourself one of the large 3 sided stones (the ones that sit in a holder) and an ultra-fine diampnd stick for final edge work and your good. Lankys and similar systems are ok but overkill IMHO. Something like an Orvis stone would be best: http://www.orvis.com/store/product.aspx?pf_id=39Y4 You just need to be patient. The surest way to turn a knife dull is to have me try to sharpen it with that stone by hand. I'm patient, but I just can't do it. |