[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Changing a distributor (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 1/10/2011 8:37:34 PM EDT
| Just curious as to if I replace the distributor and wires if I need a timing light to get the timing adjusted correctly? I know I can adjust it by hand until I get the point where it barely pings, but just was curious. |
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In theory if you made really good marks you could put it in the exact same spot and let the computer take over from there. IN theory of course. This has no computer. 84 Ford 460, with a 4bbl Holley carb. I've never used a timing light so I am curious as to how I should go about doing it with a vaccumn advance dizzy? Do I just clip it onto the #1 plug wire, and then adjust timing? I know with vac advance I need to pull those hoses off and then adjust from there. For initial and total timing. BTW I have searched and watched videos on your tube but I couldn't really learn via those methods as they didn't answer my questions. |
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Sounds like you got it... just need a timing light. IIRC they aren't that expensive; if you lived near me I'd let you borrow mine (haven't used it in years, all my vehicles started coming with coil packs starting in the late 90's) ... I did recently dig it out and use it, as I've inherited a '93 Chevy S10 (with the indestructible 4.3 V6) that has a distributor in it.
ETA: Make sure you plug those vaccuum hoses (I used to use Golf tees.. I think they make "special" caps / plugs now). Also, you need a real tach... you will want to adjust your idle speed and timing until they are both correct (one can slightly affect the other) –– IIRC. |
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Sounds like you got it... just need a timing light. IIRC they aren't that expensive; if you lived near me I'd let you borrow mine (haven't used it in years, all my vehicles started coming with coil packs starting in the late 90's) ... I did recently dig it out and use it, as I've inherited a '93 Chevy S10 (with the indestructible 4.3 V6) that has a distributor in it. ETA: Make sure you plug those vaccuum hoses (I used to use Golf tees.. I think they make "special" caps / plugs now). Also, you need a real tach... you will want to adjust your idle speed and timing until they are both correct (one can slightly affect the other) –– IIRC. From what I understand never changing a dizzy, I change it out, throw the plugs on it, and the coil wire. I then connect a tach to the dizzy and then my timing light? Or do you mean a vehicle mounted tach in that case my cluster doesn't have one presently but soon will. |
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replacing the whole distributor or just the cap? shouldn't need to re-adjust if doing just the cap. Entire thing, new cap rotor, dizzy, wires everything. You'll need to pay very very close attention to the orientation of the dist you are removing and replicate it's position....or put #1 cylinder at top dead center and line up the dizzy per owners repair manual....this MUST be done right as on the proper tooth on the gear. Yea you need a timing light! Also keep in mind that some efi systems must be put into diagnostic mode in order to time the engine! Not all cars you can just throw a timing light on and expect it to work! |
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Do you suspect that there is actually something wrong with your current distributor? If so, why? There are a few unrelated problems, even on carb'ed engines, that can cause symptoms similar to ignition system malfunctions. Timing is shit. I have backfires and dieseling. Another member here had a similar problem, and even then if I plan to dd the truck it would be beneficial to have a new dizzy instead of the OEM one. |
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Do you suspect that there is actually something wrong with your current distributor? If so, why? There are a few unrelated problems, even on carb'ed engines, that can cause symptoms similar to ignition system malfunctions. I'm with this dude! Why replace the whole thing? Is yours leaking oil from warn seals or something! Distributors are rather simple and rarely need replacement unless you're going to a msd ignition or something... |
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replacing the whole distributor or just the cap? shouldn't need to re-adjust if doing just the cap. Entire thing, new cap rotor, dizzy, wires everything. You'll need to pay very very close attention to the orientation of the dist you are removing and replicate it's position....or put #1 cylinder at top dead center and line up the dizzy per owners repair manual....this MUST be done right as on the proper tooth on the gear. Yea you need a timing light! Also keep in mind that some efi systems must be put into diagnostic mode in order to time the engine! Not all cars you can just throw a timing light on and expect it to work! Carb not efi. If my currently timing is shit should I just mimic it as best as possible, and then throw the dizzy tach and light on and go from there or do i need to put the timing cover? |
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Do you suspect that there is actually something wrong with your current distributor? If so, why? There are a few unrelated problems, even on carb'ed engines, that can cause symptoms similar to ignition system malfunctions. I'm with this dude! Why replace the whole thing? Is yours leaking oil from warn seals or something! Distributors are rather simple and rarely need replacement unless you're going to a msd ignition or something... Another member had the same problem with his truck as what mine is doing. Its already on the way so its going to be put on. The issues are High idle,single loud back fire on shut down unless I put it in a gear and keep it under power, it diesels on shut down, and it pops and everythign once I get the rpms up there. |
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Do you suspect that there is actually something wrong with your current distributor? If so, why? There are a few unrelated problems, even on carb'ed engines, that can cause symptoms similar to ignition system malfunctions. Timing is shit. I have backfires and dieseling. Another member here had a similar problem, and even then if I plan to dd the truck it would be beneficial to have a new dizzy instead of the OEM one. 99% of the time dieseling is from fuel related issues and spark timing but not from the distributor itself. Sounds like your timing is retarded to much. |
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Quoted: Do you suspect that there is actually something wrong with your current distributor? If so, why? There are a few unrelated problems, even on carb'ed engines, that can cause symptoms similar to ignition system malfunctions. I don't know about him, but I did it on my boat (302 Ford) simply to GET RID OF THE FUCKING BREAKER POINTS. If you've got an older motor with that noxious 'technology' in it, switching to HEI or CDI is worth the cost of the new dissy... |
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Do you suspect that there is actually something wrong with your current distributor? If so, why? There are a few unrelated problems, even on carb'ed engines, that can cause symptoms similar to ignition system malfunctions. Timing is shit. I have backfires and dieseling. Another member here had a similar problem, and even then if I plan to dd the truck it would be beneficial to have a new dizzy instead of the OEM one. 99% of the time dieseling is from fuel related issues and spark timing but not from the distributor itself. Sounds like your timing is retarded to much. I didn't want to spring for a new carb or rebuild this one as I can't detect anything wrong. My pickup has all the emissions truck but is non catalyst as the gvwr is over what is necessary for cats. Once this dizzy is on an dtiming taken care of then I will work on the carb. It had been too damn cold as of late, and I don't work in a shop. I figure I will pull the carb and rebuild it. |
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Do you suspect that there is actually something wrong with your current distributor? If so, why? There are a few unrelated problems, even on carb'ed engines, that can cause symptoms similar to ignition system malfunctions. I'm with this dude! Why replace the whole thing? Is yours leaking oil from warn seals or something! Distributors are rather simple and rarely need replacement unless you're going to a msd ignition or something... Another member had the same problem with his truck as what mine is doing. Its already on the way so its going to be put on. The issues are High idle,single loud back fire on shut down unless I put it in a gear and keep it under power, it diesels on shut down, and it pops and everythign once I get the rpms up there. 1 high idle .... Timing to retarded 2 afterfire after shut down.....rich fuel mixed with retarded timing....fuel ignites inside exhaust (typical when rich) 3 load slows pistons down and gives fuel a chance to burn. Fix 1. Check air to fuel ratios....using your volt meter and the o2 sensor (if applicable).... 2. Check timing 3. Check sparkplugs for fouling and learn to read your plugs Personally it sounds like you're running pig rich! |
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Do you suspect that there is actually something wrong with your current distributor? If so, why? There are a few unrelated problems, even on carb'ed engines, that can cause symptoms similar to ignition system malfunctions. Timing is shit. I have backfires and dieseling. Another member here had a similar problem, and even then if I plan to dd the truck it would be beneficial to have a new dizzy instead of the OEM one. 99% of the time dieseling is from fuel related issues and spark timing but not from the distributor itself. Sounds like your timing is retarded to much. I didn't want to spring for a new carb or rebuild this one as I can't detect anything wrong. My pickup has all the emissions truck but is non catalyst as the gvwr is over what is necessary for cats. Once this dizzy is on an dtiming taken care of then I will work on the carb. It had been too damn cold as of late, and I don't work in a shop. I figure I will pull the carb and rebuild it. Why do I have this feeling it's a 22r motor? Lol |
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Do you suspect that there is actually something wrong with your current distributor? If so, why? There are a few unrelated problems, even on carb'ed engines, that can cause symptoms similar to ignition system malfunctions. I'm with this dude! Why replace the whole thing? Is yours leaking oil from warn seals or something! Distributors are rather simple and rarely need replacement unless you're going to a msd ignition or something... Another member had the same problem with his truck as what mine is doing. Its already on the way so its going to be put on. The issues are High idle,single loud back fire on shut down unless I put it in a gear and keep it under power, it diesels on shut down, and it pops and everythign once I get the rpms up there. 1 high idle .... Timing to retarded 2 afterfire after shut down.....rich fuel mixed with retarded timing....fuel ignites inside exhaust (typical when rich) 3 load slows pistons down and gives fuel a chance to burn. Fix 1. Check air to fuel ratios....using your volt meter and the o2 sensor (if applicable).... 2. Check timing 3. Check sparkplugs for fouling and learn to read your plugs Personally it sounds like you're running pig rich! Yea theh fucker is rich as a sum bitch I do know that. No 02, but I will be running a vaccumn guage. Plugs oil and coolant are brand new. Next is wires, dizzy, washer pump, fuel filter in carb and in line, and then carb rebuild. My issue is with my carb I can't adjust it in terms of fuel ratios as it is an emissions carb, and the plugs sealed in the lower metering block are filled with a plug. This only adjusts idle air mixture not fuel. FWWI carb is a 4180 by Holley for Motorcraft. |
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Do you suspect that there is actually something wrong with your current distributor? If so, why? There are a few unrelated problems, even on carb'ed engines, that can cause symptoms similar to ignition system malfunctions. Timing is shit. I have backfires and dieseling. Another member here had a similar problem, and even then if I plan to dd the truck it would be beneficial to have a new dizzy instead of the OEM one. 99% of the time dieseling is from fuel related issues and spark timing but not from the distributor itself. Sounds like your timing is retarded to much. I didn't want to spring for a new carb or rebuild this one as I can't detect anything wrong. My pickup has all the emissions truck but is non catalyst as the gvwr is over what is necessary for cats. Once this dizzy is on an dtiming taken care of then I will work on the carb. It had been too damn cold as of late, and I don't work in a shop. I figure I will pull the carb and rebuild it. Why do I have this feeling it's a 22r motor? Lol If ford had them then maybe but its a 460 big block. |
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replacing the whole distributor or just the cap? shouldn't need to re-adjust if doing just the cap. Entire thing, new cap rotor, dizzy, wires everything. You'll need to pay very very close attention to the orientation of the dist you are removing and replicate it's position....or put #1 cylinder at top dead center and line up the dizzy per owners repair manual....this MUST be done right as on the proper tooth on the gear. Yea you need a timing light! Also keep in mind that some efi systems must be put into diagnostic mode in order to time the engine! Not all cars you can just throw a timing light on and expect it to work! Carb not efi. If my currently timing is shit should I just mimic it as best as possible, and then throw the dizzy tach and light on and go from there or do i need to put the timing cover? If the engine has a considerable amount of mileage or hours on it, and the timing is out of whack, you probably need a new timing chain & sprockets, not a new distributor. The distributor is driven by the camshaft via direct gear drive, and the camshaft is driven by the crankshaft by way of the timing chain. When the timing chain & sprockets wear, the timing of the camshaft will retard, and the ignition timing will retard and become unstable. What you need to do before anything else, is to determine if this condition exists. Remove only the cap from the distributor, and roll the engine to #1 TDC (timing mark on balancer lines up with "0" mark on the indicator). Then, use a sharpie to mark the position of the rotor button on the distributor housing. Using a ratchet and socket on the crankshaft nose bolt, slowly roll the engine counterclockwise(backwards), and note how far the crank moves before the distributor moves. If the crank moves more than 4 or 5 degrees before the distributor moves, you need to remove the timing cover from the engine and inspect the timing chain. If the chain has lots of slack in it, replace the chain and sprockets, then worry about getting the timing set correctly. |
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Just reminds me of my old Toyota pickup lol.
Well if you plan on keeping the truck I'd highly recommend you get an air to fuel gauge that uses a wideband o2 sensor! Very easy to install and are priceless when tuning a motor! 99.9% of carb rebuilds are scams.....there are no wear components in carbs! You just need to take it apart and clean it (ultrasonic clean is awesome for this). Looks like you have a few things working against you here! You need to know just how rich you're running in order to know how much to lean it out etc....timing is easy and you're def on the correct path working that first as it's an easy fix and one less problem! You'll still need to tackle the rich condition as running rich causes extreme exhaust gas temperature which can ignite unburnt fuel inside the exhaust manifold. Can also cause a flame to stay lit inside your cylinders and therefor dieseling happens. |
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Just curious as to if I replace the distributor and wires if I need a timing light to get the timing adjusted correctly? I know I can adjust it by hand until I get the point where it barely pings, but just was curious. Your 1984 should have a Duraspark II ignition system. You have an electronically triggered distributor. You would likely have a single diaphram for vacuum advance. So long as your plate is not frozen and it moves with a varrying vacuum signal, there is simply no reason to replace your distributor unless the bushings are totally shot. Your problem is with carb and timing adjustments. If you do replace it, you should rotate your engine so that your timing mark on your dampener aligns up with the timing pointer. Your distributor rotor should be aligned with your #1 cylinder marked post on your cap. If it is 180 degrees off just rotate the dampener another 360 degrees so that it is once again aligned with the pointer and it should put your rotor where it belongs. When you pull your distributor out, you will notice that the rotor rotates counter clockwise a bit. Take this into considerationi when you reinstall the new distributor. Also, pay attention to where the vacuum port is pointing as you need to install the distributor so that you have movement enough to adjust the timing. The vacuum hose should be plugged coming from your carb. Plugging the port on your distributor does not effect anything. The vacuum hose coming from your carb should be plugged into a ported vacuum source. This will get its signal from above your throttle plates and give you a stronger vacuum signal with more throttle movement. |
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Do you suspect that there is actually something wrong with your current distributor? If so, why? There are a few unrelated problems, even on carb'ed engines, that can cause symptoms similar to ignition system malfunctions. I don't know about him, but I did it on my boat (302 Ford) simply to GET RID OF THE FUCKING BREAKER POINTS. If you've got an older motor with that noxious 'technology' in it, switching to HEI or CDI is worth the cost of the new dissy... I absolutely agree with this. If the current distributor has points, by all means it should be upgraded to an electronic breakerless system. However, I'm wondering if he has a worn timing chain, rather than an actual ignition problem. Better to fix it right once than halfassed twice. 
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[I don't know about him, but I did it on my boat (302 Ford) simply to GET RID OF THE FUCKING BREAKER POINTS. If you've got an older motor with that noxious 'technology' in it, switching to HEI or CDI is worth the cost of the new dissy... I absolutely agree with this. If the current distributor has points, by all means it should be upgraded to an electronic breakerless system. Ford got rid of points in the 70s... |
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Do you suspect that there is actually something wrong with your current distributor? If so, why? There are a few unrelated problems, even on carb'ed engines, that can cause symptoms similar to ignition system malfunctions. I don't know about him, but I did it on my boat (302 Ford) simply to GET RID OF THE FUCKING BREAKER POINTS. If you've got an older motor with that noxious 'technology' in it, switching to HEI or CDI is worth the cost of the new dissy... I absolutely agree with this. If the current distributor has points, by all means it should be upgraded to an electronic breakerless system. However, I'm wondering if he has a worn timing chain, rather than an actual ignition problem. Better to fix it right once than halfassed twice.
If I do that I am going to install a double roller tchain and straight up timing. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Do you suspect that there is actually something wrong with your current distributor? If so, why? There are a few unrelated problems, even on carb'ed engines, that can cause symptoms similar to ignition system malfunctions. I don't know about him, but I did it on my boat (302 Ford) simply to GET RID OF THE FUCKING BREAKER POINTS. If you've got an older motor with that noxious 'technology' in it, switching to HEI or CDI is worth the cost of the new dissy... I absolutely agree with this. If the current distributor has points, by all means it should be upgraded to an electronic breakerless system. However, I'm wondering if he has a worn timing chain, rather than an actual ignition problem. Better to fix it right once than halfassed twice. Yep... |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: [I don't know about him, but I did it on my boat (302 Ford) simply to GET RID OF THE FUCKING BREAKER POINTS. If you've got an older motor with that noxious 'technology' in it, switching to HEI or CDI is worth the cost of the new dissy... I absolutely agree with this. If the current distributor has points, by all means it should be upgraded to an electronic breakerless system. Ford got rid of points in the 70s... My boat was a 75. |
| At this point in time I am replacing stuff. Almost everything is 24-26 years old on this pickup. It can't hurt replacing it, and if its gonna be a daily driver one less thing to break on me. My goal is to get it running good drive it around. if I like it I'm gonna put money into it, if not I have presently about $800 into it, less when considering all the tuff I have sold off ot it. Nothing important just fifth wheel hitches, extra tires and rims, etc. So pry about $500 into it which isn't bad for a own owner vehicle with mint interior. Even if the engine is fucked I am dropping abother big block in it and a zf5 trans to get my high way rpms down to help mpgs. |
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Ford got rid of points in the 70s... My boat was a 75. Boats stayed with points until FI in the late 80s... In 1975, cars and trucks still had points... SInce we are talking about a 1984, it is DII ignition.. You are correct, Ds2 was overheating causing a shut down condition once it warmed up. I lifted the module with rubber washers and metal washers to increase air flow and no more problems there. |
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At this point in time I am replacing stuff. Almost everything is 24-26 years old on this pickup. It can't hurt replacing it, and if its gonna be a daily driver one less thing to break on me. . A reman distributor should be less than $50 at any local parts store but they will likely have to order it. |
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Yea theh fucker is rich as a sum bitch I do know that. No 02, but I will be running a vaccumn guage. Plugs oil and coolant are brand new. Next is wires, dizzy, washer pump, fuel filter in carb and in line, and then carb rebuild. My issue is with my carb I can't adjust it in terms of fuel ratios as it is an emissions carb, and the plugs sealed in the lower metering block are filled with a plug. This only adjusts idle air mixture not fuel. FWWI carb is a 4180 by Holley for Motorcraft. If the engine is too rich, especially with a sealed carb, there is a problem inside the carb. Luckily, Holleys are pretty easy to overhaul. The only pain will be removing the tamper plugs to get at the idle mixture screws. *Disclaimer* If the engine has a noticeable misfire, either at idle or under a load, the fuel smell/black smoke may NOT be an indication of an actual rich condition. |
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Ford got rid of points in the 70s... My boat was a 75. Boats stayed with points until FI in the late 80s... In 1975, cars and trucks still had points... SInce we are talking about a 1984, it is DII ignition.. You are correct, Ds2 was overheating causing a shut down condition once it warmed up. I lifted the module with rubber washers and metal washers to increase air flow and no more problems there. If you are replacing parts, that module should be replaced. It is not normal for it to overheat, even if it is mounted near the engine. That is the symptom of it being junk... |
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At this point in time I am replacing stuff. Almost everything is 24-26 years old on this pickup. It can't hurt replacing it, and if its gonna be a daily driver one less thing to break on me. . A reman distributor should be less than $50 at any local parts store but they will likely have to order it. It was $110 from Rock Auto. $60 dollars for it, and then like 40 for core and then 12 for shipping. Its not a motorcraft part which sucks but it is the best one they had. |
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If what you guys are saying is correct I should just throw a tlight on it before I swap out the distributor just to check it out? If I don't need the new dizzy and wires I can just ship em back. You should check the timing and also, check that the vacuum advance diaphram and plate are functioning and that you are using ported vacuum. |
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Ford got rid of points in the 70s... My boat was a 75. Boats stayed with points until FI in the late 80s... In 1975, cars and trucks still had points... SInce we are talking about a 1984, it is DII ignition.. You are correct, Ds2 was overheating causing a shut down condition once it warmed up. I lifted the module with rubber washers and metal washers to increase air flow and no more problems there. If you are replacing parts, that module should be replaced. It is not normal for it to overheat, even if it is mounted near the engine. That is the symptom of it being junk... Actually its a common issue because of the fact they didn't have enough clearance for air flow. Using washers to move it up a tad fixed the problem. It has also fixed others problems on the Ford forums. |
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Yea theh fucker is rich as a sum bitch I do know that. No 02, but I will be running a vaccumn guage. Plugs oil and coolant are brand new. Next is wires, dizzy, washer pump, fuel filter in carb and in line, and then carb rebuild. My issue is with my carb I can't adjust it in terms of fuel ratios as it is an emissions carb, and the plugs sealed in the lower metering block are filled with a plug. This only adjusts idle air mixture not fuel. FWWI carb is a 4180 by Holley for Motorcraft. If the engine is too rich, especially with a sealed carb, there is a problem inside the carb. Luckily, Holleys are pretty easy to overhaul. The only pain will be removing the tamper plugs to get at the idle mixture screws. *Disclaimer* If the engine has a noticeable misfire, either at idle or under a load, the fuel smell/black smoke may NOT be an indication of an actual rich condition. My issue is that I can't adjust shit on this thing. In terms of the carb, its sealed so unlikely it has got outta wac. I may ahve a blown powervalve cause it does not have a back fire check ball, but I can retro fit one into it. Second, the plugs aren;t too bad tap with center punch then drill in and easy out and then get with an allen wrench. So what are you saying my engines fucked? |
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If what you guys are saying is correct I should just throw a tlight on it before I swap out the distributor just to check it out? If I don't need the new dizzy and wires I can just ship em back. What we are saying is "don't go throwing parts at it until you know what needs replaced". 1. Check timing 2. If timing is off find out why...(loose timing chain etc) 3. If timing is good start looking at fuel related issues etc No sense in replacing good parts:-) |
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It was $110 from Rock Auto. $60 dollars for it, and then like 40 for core and then 12 for shipping. Its not a motorcraft part which sucks but it is the best one they had. Autozone is $45 with no shipping cost and no core charge if you hand your old one over when you pick the reman up.. I have gotten them in overnight from there.. |
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[I don't know about him, but I did it on my boat (302 Ford) simply to GET RID OF THE FUCKING BREAKER POINTS. If you've got an older motor with that noxious 'technology' in it, switching to HEI or CDI is worth the cost of the new dissy... I absolutely agree with this. If the current distributor has points, by all means it should be upgraded to an electronic breakerless system. Ford got rid of points in the 70s... I am aware of this, but there are lots of '80s Fords running around with "old school" parts swapped in, so you just never know what you'll run into. 
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If what you guys are saying is correct I should just throw a tlight on it before I swap out the distributor just to check it out? If I don't need the new dizzy and wires I can just ship em back. What we are saying is "don't go throwing parts at it until you know what needs replaced". 1. Check timing 2. If timing is off find out why...(loose timing chain etc) 3. If timing is good start looking at fuel related issues etc No sense in replacing good parts:-) Yeah I am going to that before I swap the new one on. |
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My issue is that I can't adjust shit on this thing. In terms of the carb, its sealed so unlikely it has got outta wac. I may ahve a blown powervalve cause it does not have a back fire check ball, but I can retro fit one into it. Second, the plugs aren;t too bad tap with center punch then drill in and easy out and then get with an allen wrench. So what are you saying my engines fucked? Float could develop a leak and be sitting low because there is fuel in it, jetc clog, etc... Plenty of things to get "outa wac"... Have you even pulled your carb to check your base gaskets???? |
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Yea theh fucker is rich as a sum bitch I do know that. No 02, but I will be running a vaccumn guage. Plugs oil and coolant are brand new. Next is wires, dizzy, washer pump, fuel filter in carb and in line, and then carb rebuild. My issue is with my carb I can't adjust it in terms of fuel ratios as it is an emissions carb, and the plugs sealed in the lower metering block are filled with a plug. This only adjusts idle air mixture not fuel. FWWI carb is a 4180 by Holley for Motorcraft. If the engine is too rich, especially with a sealed carb, there is a problem inside the carb. Luckily, Holleys are pretty easy to overhaul. The only pain will be removing the tamper plugs to get at the idle mixture screws. *Disclaimer* If the engine has a noticeable misfire, either at idle or under a load, the fuel smell/black smoke may NOT be an indication of an actual rich condition. My issue is that I can't adjust shit on this thing. In terms of the carb, its sealed so unlikely it has got outta wac. I may ahve a blown powervalve cause it does not have a back fire check ball, but I can retro fit one into it. Second, the plugs aren;t too bad tap with center punch then drill in and easy out and then get with an allen wrench. So what are you saying my engines fucked? No....just needs tuned! Engines need tuning....efi systems tune constantly all the time but carbed motors rely on constant adjustments by you. Black smoke may not mean "rich" but rather "fuel that isn't completely burnt"...such as poor timing, poor valve adjustment, poor spark etc....all these are simple fixes in the whole scheme of automotive maintenance! Not like you have rod knock lol:-) |
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It was $110 from Rock Auto. $60 dollars for it, and then like 40 for core and then 12 for shipping. Its not a motorcraft part which sucks but it is the best one they had. Autozone is $45 with no shipping cost and no core charge if you hand your old one over when you pick the reman up.. I have gotten them in overnight from there.. I'd rather pay more and get a good product, and support a family owned business. |
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Yea theh fucker is rich as a sum bitch I do know that. No 02, but I will be running a vaccumn guage. Plugs oil and coolant are brand new. Next is wires, dizzy, washer pump, fuel filter in carb and in line, and then carb rebuild. My issue is with my carb I can't adjust it in terms of fuel ratios as it is an emissions carb, and the plugs sealed in the lower metering block are filled with a plug. This only adjusts idle air mixture not fuel. FWWI carb is a 4180 by Holley for Motorcraft. If the engine is too rich, especially with a sealed carb, there is a problem inside the carb. Luckily, Holleys are pretty easy to overhaul. The only pain will be removing the tamper plugs to get at the idle mixture screws. *Disclaimer* If the engine has a noticeable misfire, either at idle or under a load, the fuel smell/black smoke may NOT be an indication of an actual rich condition. My issue is that I can't adjust shit on this thing. In terms of the carb, its sealed so unlikely it has got outta wac. I may ahve a blown powervalve cause it does not have a back fire check ball, but I can retro fit one into it. Second, the plugs aren;t too bad tap with center punch then drill in and easy out and then get with an allen wrench. So what are you saying my engines fucked? No....just needs tuned! Engines need tuning....efi systems tune constantly all the time but carbed motors rely on constant adjustments by you. Black smoke may not mean "rich" but rather "fuel that isn't completely burnt"...such as poor timing, poor valve adjustment, poor spark etc....all these are simple fixes in the whole scheme of automotive maintenance! Not like you have rod knock lol:-) Yeah its just frustrating this carb is so tuning resistant. Not exactly the best carb to learn on. |