[ARCHIVED THREAD] - locked out (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 12/24/2010 6:48:19 AM EDT
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One door is knob locked only not deadbolt. Locksmiths all closed. Have every tool in the garage. Easiest way in?
Not joking. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Quoted:
One door is knob locked only not deadbolt. Locksmiths all closed. Have every tool in the garage. Easiest way in? Not joking. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Drill out the cylinder (part where key goes in) Quick and cheaper to replace than calling a locksmith. |
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You may be able to slide a credit card or something simmilar in between the jam and the bolt thing. Thats a 50/50 shot because it doesn't work with all doors. Just be sure to be forcefull with your card, and use the one you dont use often because you will bend it.
You don't have a key hidden somewhere outside just for this? |
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Don't know if you have a smart phone to view this, but here's a youtube video on how to use credit card.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD-EkRgTO30 |
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Some good options here so far. I'll add drilling the lock.
When the key goes in, there's a flat side and a grooved side. The grooved side sets the pins. Above the keyway, just above the pins, drill a hole parallel with the keyway. Lock should turn easily. Here's a bunch of cylinders with *very carefully* drilled cylinders. I've always gone a bit bigger, but I'm just some dude, not a pro. 
It won't be as obvious that the lock is defunct until you can get it replaced. |
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Quoted: oh jeeze this is EASY. Hammer. Knock handle off door. Push inner handle out of mechanism use screw driver to release door. Enter. I'd go to home depot and buy a new lock set first so you don't leave the house unsecure. It's really very easy folks! That's what I do, smash the knob with a small sledge, then after you get the blub part of the knob off use a multitool to open the door, doesn't damage the door like prying. Of course if the hinges are on the outside you can just remove the door |
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All you guys recommending prying, smashing the lock, etc, just don't know how things work, do you?
To the OP... get an 18" pipe wrench, put it on the doorknob, and turn. It will break the internals, the door will open, then all you have to do is replace the knob assembly. The doorframe will not be ruined. The door will not be ruined. It won't even make much noise doing it. You can keep the door locked from the inside with the deadbolt you said was not engaged. Some of you guys make too much work for yourselves. Sheesh! 
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Quick story:
I went out with my friends and my girlfriend to a bar, ended up being 21+ only so I couldn't get in, me and the girlfriend take a cab back to his house and realize the keys for my car are inside their house. After living with him the year prior I knew he never locks the windows so I break in through the window and proceeded to have sex with my girlfriend on all the couches in the house and then left. Everytime I go to the house I laugh thinking about it Edit: I find it amazing that I broke into his house in under a minute and no cops were called. Definitely makes me lock my house when I leave |
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Quoted:
Go to home depot and buy a key for your lock and make a bump key. In in two seconds. Bullshit. A bump key has to be specially cut (by a locksmith) for it to work... even then it's a 50/50 proposition at best. It needs to have all the cuts cut to the deepest possible depth for that brand lock, and the cuts need to moved .020" further forward from the shoulder than what are the factory specs. You cannot do this accurately enough with a hand file. The "credit card" trick is the best bet on an entry type knob or lever. If you have big cushy weatherstripping it's easy. If you don't, and the latchbolt has been properly aligned and the door fit is tight, it will NOT work, no matter how hard you try. All key-locking knobs/levers use what's called a "deadlatch". There's two parts to it that protrude from the door's edge. There's the big beveled edge latchbolt, then behind that is a smaller one. The purpose of the smaller one is to prevent shimming with a cc. When properly aligned, the large bolt goes into the hole in the strike plate on the frame, the smaller one is not supposed to go in the hole. It's designed to be depressed into the latchbolt assembly by resting on the face of the strike-plate behind the hole. When depressed, the latchbolt cannot be pushed in... not by shimming nor any other method, except turning the knob. Try it on an open door. With your finger, depress the smaller piece into the door. Then try to push the larger one in. It will not go in far enough for the door to be opened. If it does, it's worn out or defective and should be replaced ASAP... the next thing to happen when a dead-latch breaks is, very soon the latch won't move at all and the door is locked up tight from both sides. The reason shimming sometimes works and sometimes doesn't is because the dead latching mechanism is sometimes aligned to work as designed, sometimes it's not. To shim one with big cushy weatherstripping, get the shim started between the door and frame, then pull HARD on the knob to compress the weatherstripping. If you can get the door to close far enough for the smaller part of the deadlatch to slip into the strike plate, then, and only then, should you be able to shim it. You'll hear it "click" when it pops into the strike hole... and then you can shim it but keep pulling hard on the door to keep the pressure off the latchbolt. I use a piece of plastic cut from a heavy guage plastic bottle such as those that anti-freeze or motor oil come in... credit cards are too stiff to make the bend without cracking. Btw... if you're wondering how I know all this, I've been a full-time professional locksmith for 26 yrs. I've earned my living for two & half decades by breaking into shit. I've done this (literally) 1,000s of times... last one was last night about 7:30pm.  If you have a deadlatch that's not aligned properly (and no deadbolt) you need to correct this ASAP.
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