Posted: 4/30/2010 4:49:08 PM EDT
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We need to do some serious landscape work, and a backyard deck is part of the plan.
I'd like to keep it simple; 16x36, single level. Two corners "clipped" at 45 degrees by about 4 feet. Will run full length of house on South side. Accessed from kitchen, one step down to deck level so door can open after a snowstorm, etc. Two sets of stairs to lawn about 3 feet below deck surface, one on long side and one on one end. I plan on supporting it on treated 4x4 posts set into the ground on concrete pads. (18 total.) Double 2x8 beams running crosswise. 2x8 joists on 16-inch centers, running lengthwise. 2x6 cedar planking running crosswise over joists. The questions I have are; 1 Is there any reason to fasten one side directly TO the house? 2. The cedar deck surface will add a lot to the cost. Is it worth the difference in appearance and durability over treated wood? ( I do not want that sythetic stuff, too hot and too slippery, in my experience.) 3. I designed it at the Menards computer kiosk; it sort of automatically included "8-foot DeckMount brown hidden fasteners". Is that a good system or is there something better to hold the deck boards to the joists? Any other ideas/ thoughts? Thanks in advance! |
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I used 6x treated planks for my deck. it was cheaper than the finished 5/8 deck planks and stronger too. After a couple years it weathers down to a nicer look I think. My deck settled towards the door so all the water drains that way. i would not build it level if I did it again.
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Ipe wood seems to be the hot new material. I believe the costs are about the same as cedar. http://www.bobvila.com/HowTo_Library/High_End_Deck_Materials-Deck-A1721.html |
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Quoted:
I used 6x treated planks for my deck. it was cheaper than the finished 5/8 deck planks and stronger too. After a couple years it weathers down to a nicer look I think. My deck settled towards the door so all the water drains that way. i would not build it level if I did it again. Good to know. It would be easy to slope it away from the house a wee bit. I had even considered implementing FHA jackpost heads to allow for the post settling over time. Probably would have to send them out to get hot-dip galvanized, though. Kind of a pain, and probably not necessary. |
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A couple of points:
- To be safe on high decks - anchor one side to the house unless you can cross brace correctly. Never anchor to the siding - remove where the ledger board goes and use standoffs - see below. - ground level you can use posts but in Wisconsin I am not sure about the codes and frost issues. - If you use pressure treated lumber - all new pressure treated wood corrodes the galvanized hangers, screws and bolts. Use stainless connectors and use something like the Grace Vycor = Vycor Brochure - If anchoring to the house - use standoffs such as standoffs - use proper connectors such as Stongtie - If anchoring to the house - properly flashing is needed or you will rot out the ledger board diagram - if you are using regular boards you can use hidden ties.Stongtie More info -if using composit boards - same or get the grooved boards and use their hidden inserts. |
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You do not need to fasten one side to the house. The last deck I built, I did this way. I would dig your concrete footer deeper than the minimum. The reason I would do this is so that you have more of the post in the ground, which makes it less "shaky". How deep you go is up to you, but having the top of the concrete footer 2 feet under grade would not be bad. A free standing deck can be shaky if you don't go deep enough.
They do not recommend attaching the deck to a brick veneer. My last one was freestanding because of this. If you have siding, remove the bottom piece, attach some galvanized flashing, making sure that the top of the flashing is a few inches higher than the finished deck surface will be. Make sure it extends a few inches past the outer edges of the deck too, and just below the top of your brick foundation. Usually 10 inch flashing will do it, but you might need more. This will keep water from getting behind it and rotting your wood. If you have vinyl siding, you can run some J channel along the deck surface at the house, then cut down the siding and reinstall. If you have wood or HardiPlank siding that is blind nailed, I would probably consider free standing it to avoid getting into messing with it. Personally, I think it is much less shaky when you attach it to the house. On a big deck, for me, it seems easier to get the framing done and level. Just snap a level chalk line along the house, and build off of that. As far as protecting the wood under your siding, free standing is your best bet. If you do attach it, do not use the cheaper aluminum flashing. The treated wood will just eat it up and your wood will be exposed. I have never used the hidden fasteners, but I like the idea. It sure looks nice not to see fasteners. If you do use fasteners, either use screws or if you use nails, use "ring shank" nails. I think they hold better than swirl nails or smooth nails. Screws are the best as far as holding, and easier to remove if you ever need to replace a board. Don't worry about getting shorter nails or screws for deck boards. I use the same 3 inch nails for everything on a deck. The extra length of nail in the joist will help if the deck boards warp some and try to pull the nail out. Good luck. |
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Quoted:
You do not need to fasten one side to the house. The last deck I built, I did this way. I would dig your concrete footer deeper than the minimum. The reason I would do this is so that you have more of the post in the ground, which makes it less "shaky". How deep you go is up to you, but having the top of the concrete footer 2 feet under grade would not be bad. A free standing deck can be shaky if you don't go deep enough. They do not recommend attaching the deck to a brick veneer. My last one was freestanding because of this. If you have siding, remove the bottom piece, attach some galvanized flashing, making sure that the top of the flashing is a few inches higher than the finished deck surface will be. Make sure it extends a few inches past the outer edges of the deck too, and just below the top of your brick foundation. Usually 10 inch flashing will do it, but you might need more. This will keep water from getting behind it and rotting your wood. If you have vinyl siding, you can run some J channel along the deck surface at the house, then cut down the siding and reinstall. If you have wood or HardiPlank siding that is blind nailed, I would probably consider free standing it to avoid getting into messing with it. Personally, I think it is much less shaky when you attach it to the house. On a big deck, for me, it seems easier to get the framing done and level. Just snap a level chalk line along the house, and build off of that. As far as protecting the wood under your siding, free standing is your best bet. If you do attach it, do not use the cheaper aluminum flashing. The treated wood will just eat it up and your wood will be exposed. I have never used the hidden fasteners, but I like the idea. It sure looks nice not to see fasteners. If you do use fasteners, either use screws or if you use nails, use "ring shank" nails. I think they hold better than swirl nails or smooth nails. Screws are the best as far as holding, and easier to remove if you ever need to replace a board. Don't worry about getting shorter nails or screws for deck boards. I use the same 3 inch nails for everything on a deck. The extra length of nail in the joist will help if the deck boards warp some and try to pull the nail out. Good luck. Thanks. I probably could fasten a ledger directly to the poured basement wall right under the first-floor siding, but I may just go with beefing up the posts as you suggested and build it free-standing. It won't be very high off the ground, about 2-3 feet on average, so that is to my advantage, stiffness-wise. No matter what, I will NOT use surface-driven screws. I''ll screw it from below if I have to, but there are lots of clip options in some of the links that John in GA. provided earlier. |