Posted: 4/20/2010 11:05:25 AM EDT
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Ok I have an old sun room with linoleum glued down on top of the concrete. The flooring is damaged/ugly, and needs to be replaced. So far I have tried scraping it up with no luck. Tried using a heat gun to heat it up and pull it up, it worked alright, but doing a 300sf room will take the better part of forever. Anybody know an easier way to get it removed? Thermite crossed my mind briefly....not going that route, I like the rest of the house.
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you can get a propane torch to heat faster, but you have to scrape no matter what. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91033 |
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I just went through this a few months ago. It's going to take a LOT of hard work. No easy way to do it, but this procedure will make it go a LOT faster and really help out.
Go to Harbor Freight and get this multi-function tool for $40. Use it to get the top layer and most of the glue up.
Then use a big scraper like this that you can keep sharp. link
Also get a smaller hand scraper for corners and hard to reach places. I found this one at Walmart in their paint area. It worked really well. And the blade can be rotated to a new side to keep it sharp.
Soak a section of the glue using a jug of Krud Kutter Adhesive Remover, poor some on the floor and let it sit for about 10-15 minutes (just don't let it dry) then start scraping with either of the two hand scrapers. It should come up fairly easy. The Multi-Function Tool doesn't really do much good on the glue at this point.
GOOD LUCK!! You're going to need it. |
| First, you said old sun room. Be careful, alot of those old floors and adhesives contain asbestos, mostly the 9 inch tile and black adhesive. Second, what are you replacing the floor with? There are a lot of options, laminate can be installed right over the old floor. If it's down that good, ceramic tile can be installed if you scarify the vinyl. By that I mean to take a grinder and just rough up the wear layer of the vinyl. 90% of the time I take up old vinyl is if it's loose or if it's that cushion back. If you're putting vinyl back down you can use an embossing levelor, and not that cheap stuff they sell at H.D. or Lowes. I use what they call Ardex, real good stuff. If you absolutely have to have that vinyl up, cut it into 1 inch strips, and get a good hand scraper, and plenty of blades. And some good knee pads!!! |
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Quoted: What are you going to replace it with? If it is down that tight, with some types of floors you do not have to remove it. I'm going to put down tile, so it needs to come up. The power scraper is sounding like a good idea. Its big and open enough that scoring it and putting something on it to seep through and dissolve it would work too, if its effective. The heat gun works, but is probably the slowest effective option right now for it.
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Quoted: First, you said old sun room. Be careful, alot of those old floors and adhesives contain asbestos, mostly the 9 inch tile and black adhesive. Second, what are you replacing the floor with? There are a lot of options, laminate can be installed right over the old floor. If it's down that good, ceramic tile can be installed if you scarify the vinyl. By that I mean to take a grinder and just rough up the wear layer of the vinyl. 90% of the time I take up old vinyl is if it's loose or if it's that cushion back. If you're putting vinyl back down you can use an embossing levelor, and not that cheap stuff they sell at H.D. or Lowes. I use what they call Ardex, real good stuff. If you absolutely have to have that vinyl up, cut it into 1 inch strips, and get a good hand scraper, and plenty of blades. And some good knee pads!!! I looked online about asbestos, the tiles and the black colors are what I found too..... This is a roll of linoleum. Along one wall where I am assuming there was little adhesive(that I can see) came up very easy, its brittle. I'm afraid what will happen if I try and tile over it. If its something that can be done effectively, I may have to go that route. But I would prefer for now to remove it.
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Quoted:
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First, you said old sun room. Be careful, alot of those old floors and adhesives contain asbestos, mostly the 9 inch tile and black adhesive. Second, what are you replacing the floor with? There are a lot of options, laminate can be installed right over the old floor. If it's down that good, ceramic tile can be installed if you scarify the vinyl. By that I mean to take a grinder and just rough up the wear layer of the vinyl. 90% of the time I take up old vinyl is if it's loose or if it's that cushion back. If you're putting vinyl back down you can use an embossing levelor, and not that cheap stuff they sell at H.D. or Lowes. I use what they call Ardex, real good stuff. If you absolutely have to have that vinyl up, cut it into 1 inch strips, and get a good hand scraper, and plenty of blades. And some good knee pads!!! I looked online about asbestos, the tiles and the black colors are what I found too..... This is a roll of linoleum. Along one wall where I am assuming there was little adhesive(that I can see) came up very easy, its brittle. I'm afraid what will happen if I try and tile over it. If its something that can be done effectively, I may have to go that route. But I would prefer for now to remove it. Copy and pasted from someone in the know... Lino, is not made with asbestos, and never has. It is made from all natural products just like it always has, nothing has changed. It qualifies for LEED points.
Black asbestos cutback adhesive, commonly used under VAT(vinyl asbestos tiles) and some VCT, along with sheet vinyl made before the cut off period, will be the bad stuff. Just like your link posted, a lot of people confuse and mix linoleum, with sheetvinyl, thinking they are the same thing. THEY ARE NOT! The link you posted has some errors. It never mentions sheet vinyl, and like I mentioned, has "sheet linoleum" labelling sheet vinyl. Linoleum made today, is made just like it was 50-60-70-100 years ago. Nothing taken out, and nothing added to the mix, of a composition of wood flour, oxidized linseed oil, gums or other organic ingredients, and coloring matter. An English rubber manufacturer, Frederick Walton, patented linoleum in 1863. It replaced Kamptulicon, a costly rubber composition. In the manufacture of linoleum, linseed oil is exposed to the air in a succession of thin films until it is of a rubbery consistency, or it is thickened by heating until it becomes a spongy mass, after which it is ground, mixed with pulverized wood and other ingredients, and then applied to the foundation and rolled smooth. The final process is a thorough seasoning in drying rooms. In inlaid linoleum the pattern is built up from the base in the colors of the design and is therefore permanent. Linoleum is made in several thicknesses and in the form of tiles. It is sometimes surfaced with a durable pyroxylin lacquer. Although large amounts of linoleum are still produced, other materials such as vinyl are now more widely used as floor coverings. |
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What are you going to replace it with? If it is down that tight, with some types of floors you do not have to remove it. I'm going to put down tile, so it needs to come up. The power scraper is sounding like a good idea. Its big and open enough that scoring it and putting something on it to seep through and dissolve it would work too, if its effective. The heat gun works, but is probably the slowest effective option right now for it. If you are putting down cermic or porcilean tile, you do not have to remove it. All you need to do is sand the surface with a coarce grade of sand paper, then install your new tile over it. |
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My house is built on a concrete slab, I had linoleium in my kitchen.
I scrapped a corner up best I could, then just proceeded to rip it out. For the "leftover" that were stuck to the concrete, I found if a soaked it with water, it was easily scraped up with a sharp wood chisel with minimal effort. |
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This is what you need to do. It has worked every time for me. Get a heavy-ass scraper (or an electric one). Quoted: They make flooring stripper. What youd have to do is make some cuts in the linoleum, pour the stuff down, and wait for 30min to an hour. Then use a heavy scraper. |
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Quoted: My house is built on a concrete slab, I had linoleium in my kitchen. I scrapped a corner up best I could, then just proceeded to rip it out. For the "leftover" that were stuck to the concrete, I found if a soaked it with water, it was easily scraped up with a sharp wood chisel with minimal effort. I got the length of one wall up, about 1foot wide, as soon as you get to the adhesive it won't budge. I'm going to Lowes tonight to find the stuff to put on it when you score it to loosen it, and my local rental place is getting a call to see about a power scraper.
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What are you going to replace it with? If it is down that tight, with some types of floors you do not have to remove it. I'm going to put down tile, so it needs to come up. The power scraper is sounding like a good idea. Its big and open enough that scoring it and putting something on it to seep through and dissolve it would work too, if its effective. The heat gun works, but is probably the slowest effective option right now for it. If you are putting down cermic or porcilean tile, you do not have to remove it. All you need to do is sand the surface with a coarce grade of sand paper, then install your new tile over it. Exactly this. The existing floor makes a good vapor barrier. Modern thinsets will adhere well to vinyl ect. Strip (clean) the floor, rough it up and lay the tile. (Family business) |
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Go to a good equipment rental store and get one of these... http://edcoinc.com/images/products/removal-demolition/TS-8_tan.jpg to strip the tile... one of these... http://edcoinc.com/images/products/floor-grinding/TG-10_tan.jpg to grind off the old adhesive and prep the floor for whatever you are going to lay down next. www.edcoinc.com has some good videos and tutorials on how to do it. 300 sq ft would be knocked out in about 2 hours with these machines. |
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Quoted:
First, you said old sun room. Be careful, alot of those old floors and adhesives contain asbestos, mostly the 9 inch tile and black adhesive. Second, what are you replacing the floor with? There are a lot of options, laminate can be installed right over the old floor. If it's down that good, ceramic tile can be installed if you scarify the vinyl. By that I mean to take a grinder and just rough up the wear layer of the vinyl. 90% of the time I take up old vinyl is if it's loose or if it's that cushion back. If you're putting vinyl back down you can use an embossing levelor, and not that cheap stuff they sell at H.D. or Lowes. I use what they call Ardex, real good stuff. If you absolutely have to have that vinyl up, cut it into 1 inch strips, and get a good hand scraper, and plenty of blades. And some good knee pads!!! This is what we did. |



