Drying Set Up (Page 2 of 4)
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: What dryer? This is something I've warned about in the past. Could be temp but also I've found that cheap dryers and especially converted setups, the heat is inaccurate and your temp can be off by as much as 10-15C due to heating methodology and lack of convection or fans, causing hit spots which can fuse filament. I've experienced it first hand several times with the supposed same temperature, with different results based on drying device. Some sort of single unit Creality  yes I knew better. I did not want to use the dryer in the AMS pro as we always have a super mix of filaments and most of it...so far, is printing perfect out of the box for what we make. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Also you probably won't be able to use PA6-CF in the AMS unit because of how brittle it is. You'll need to bypass it and feed directly into the printer being mindful of the bends in your ptfe tubes. So if I understand correctly, I should use the bypass port on the AMS HT cover and route the PTFE tube directly into the printer, not the AMS hub? So much to learn and I am so appreciative for the knowledge here. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: So if I understand correctly, I should use the bypass port on the AMS HT cover and route the PTFE tube directly into the printer, not the AMS hub? So much to learn and I am so appreciative for the knowledge here. For brittle materials it's always best to feed them separately and not through the AMS 2. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: So if I understand correctly, I should use the bypass port on the AMS HT cover and route the PTFE tube directly into the printer, not the AMS hub? So much to learn and I am so appreciative for the knowledge here. Not a bambu guy so I don't know exactly how the ams bypass works, but yes that sounds right. As long as it's coming directly out of the AMS and going directly into the printer. Again just watch for sharp bends. ETA: I looked at some pics online and it looks like there's a port coming out of the cover that you can plug the PTFE tube into. Do that.  |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: So if I understand correctly, I should use the bypass port on the AMS HT cover and route the PTFE tube directly into the printer, not the AMS hub? So much to learn and I am so appreciative for the knowledge here. Yes, use the bypass port. The spool feeds from the bottom up out of the port on the bypass. That should be obvious but just in case it isn't. The P2S has a filament buffer with a PTFE tube going up to the extruder Bowden with a connector. Disconnect there and connect the bypass PTFE tube to this connector.feed the filament into the extruder first and then connect them, otherwise you'll have a fun time feeding the filament into the extruder. Other machines are slightly different. The H2D as an example has a separate bypass port altogether, so no tubes to disconnect or swap. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Yes, use the bypass port. The spool feeds from the bottom up out of the port on the bypass. That should be obvious but just in case it isn't. The P2S has a filament buffer with a PTFE tube going up to the extruder Bowden with a connector. Disconnect there and connect the bypass PTFE tube to this connector.feed the filament into the extruder first and then connect them, otherwise you'll have a fun time feeding the filament into the extruder. Other machines are slightly different. The H2D as an example has a separate bypass port altogether, so no tubes to disconnect or swap. Right on, thanks so much. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Obsessed - do your dry pods print in this orientation? Studio tells me there are floating regions and I should re-orient. Glue required? https://i.imgur.com/dt9SGZm.png I printed mine just like your picture and they printed fine. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Obsessed - do your dry pods print in this orientation? Studio tells me there are floating regions and I should re-orient. Glue required? https://i.imgur.com/dt9SGZm.png That's the correct orientation. I've searched that model layer by layer and I cannot find any floating regions.  Zero floating regions that I can see in the model, either. I've even tried cutting it into pieces to narrow it down and still don't have luck. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Obsessed - do your dry pods print in this orientation? Studio tells me there are floating regions and I should re-orient. Glue required? https://i.imgur.com/dt9SGZm.png |
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Has anyone modded a toaster oven with PID controller to reach the higher temps for the pa6 gf and other filaments that require it? I have a toaster oven that I used for coating bullets and a pid controller that I used on a lead casting pot. And plenty of time to screw around with such a diy thing. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By steelworker: Has anyone modded a toaster oven with PID controller to reach the higher temps for the pa6 gf and other filaments that require it? I have a toaster oven that I used for coating bullets and a pid controller that I used on a lead casting pot. And plenty of time to screw around with such a diy thing. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/427842/IMG_2512_jpeg-3732955.JPG Here is your easy button for a high temp dryer and you can directly print from it too. It has fittings in the back to feed from. Can also be used to anneal parts if you want to. https://west3d.com/products/west3d-filament-toaster-high-temperature-filament-dryer-for-all-filament-types  
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Tennessee Squire
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Originally Posted By steelworker: Has anyone modded a toaster oven with PID controller to reach the higher temps for the pa6 gf and other filaments that require it? I have a toaster oven that I used for coating bullets and a pid controller that I used on a lead casting pot. And plenty of time to screw around with such a diy thing. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/427842/IMG_2512_jpeg-3732955.JPG I built one a few weeks with a cheap convection toaster oven from Amazon. I just pulled all the controls off and wired all of the elements to the main plug, then added a separate power cord for the fan. That way I can plug the cord for the elements into the PID controller to manage the temp and then fan into a different outlet to just run full time. It works ok, but if I had seen that West 3D unit before I ordered all of my parts I probably would have just gone that route. 
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@Obsessed I have all the 'supplies' and getting ready to print the desiccant/spool holder. My question is: I recall you once saying something to the effect of don't change the settings or something. I have a Prusa and my Google research tells me the 3mf version may not work correctly for me. So, should i download the 3mf as-is, 3mf with changes (what changes?), or go stl and make (what if any) adjustments? I'm using PLA+ as it's all I have it it makes a difference, not sure about the axle and bearings at this point. Maybe I'll go ahead and print them. |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: @Obsessed I have all the 'supplies' and getting ready to print the desiccant/spool holder. My question is: I recall you once saying something to the effect of don't change the settings or something. I have a Prusa and my Google research tells me the 3mf version may not work correctly for me. So, should i download the 3mf as-is, 3mf with changes (what changes?), or go stl and make (what if any) adjustments? I'm using PLA+ as it's all I have it it makes a difference, not sure about the axle and bearings at this point. Maybe I'll go ahead and print them. Important settings are as follows...For the record I would still download the 3MF as the object orientation should still be accurate. Seam position: Back (pods are rotated such that back seams all get dumped in the fatter bottom part, away from the venting. Detect thin walls: OFF Wall generation: Classic Other settings aren't a huge deal. 0.2mm layer height is fine. On the door, the inner piece (called the door mesh) should have 0 top and 0 bottom layers, 35% grid infill, 45 degree infill direction, and 100% infill/wall overlap. I also make the door frame itself have infill direction such that the top surface where the rails are, the extrusion runs along that. That's usually a 0 degree infill pattern. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Important settings are as follows...For the record I would still download the 3MF as the object orientation should still be accurate. Seam position: Back (pods are rotated such that back seams all get dumped in the fatter bottom part, away from the venting. Detect thin walls: OFF Wall generation: Classic Other settings aren't a huge deal. 0.2mm layer height is fine. On the door, the inner piece (called the door mesh) should have 0 top and 0 bottom layers, 35% grid infill, 45 degree infill direction, and 100% infill/wall overlap. I also make the door frame itself have infill direction such that the top surface where the rails are, the extrusion runs along that. That's usually a 0 degree infill pattern. Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By bmarshall1: @Obsessed I have all the 'supplies' and getting ready to print the desiccant/spool holder. My question is: I recall you once saying something to the effect of don't change the settings or something. I have a Prusa and my Google research tells me the 3mf version may not work correctly for me. So, should i download the 3mf as-is, 3mf with changes (what changes?), or go stl and make (what if any) adjustments? I'm using PLA+ as it's all I have it it makes a difference, not sure about the axle and bearings at this point. Maybe I'll go ahead and print them. Important settings are as follows...For the record I would still download the 3MF as the object orientation should still be accurate. Seam position: Back (pods are rotated such that back seams all get dumped in the fatter bottom part, away from the venting. Detect thin walls: OFF Wall generation: Classic Other settings aren't a huge deal. 0.2mm layer height is fine. On the door, the inner piece (called the door mesh) should have 0 top and 0 bottom layers, 35% grid infill, 45 degree infill direction, and 100% infill/wall overlap. I also make the door frame itself have infill direction such that the top surface where the rails are, the extrusion runs along that. That's usually a 0 degree infill pattern. @Obsessed OK downloaded the H? profile. it had the most dl's. I sliced and printed as is, it's printing 11 hours! It's .2 height and structural for strength, I should have gone for speed I guess. My printer is set for 15% infill so at that time I wasn't able to make the changes to the door. I can always either separate them or I'm learning to right click and change things independently. I'll see how this comes out and let you know. If you have anymore tips let me know, thanks! |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: @Obsessed OK downloaded the H? profile. it had the most dl's. I sliced and printed as is, it's printing 11 hours! It's .2 height and structural for strength, I should have gone for speed I guess. My printer is set for 15% infill so at that time I wasn't able to make the changes to the door. I can always either separate them or I'm learning to right click and change things independently. I'll see how this comes out and let you know. If you have anymore tips let me know, thanks! Post a screenshot of the sliced door. |
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OK, I pulled it off the printer and it looks pretty perfect. The doors go right on, I have not installed the axles as I need the bearings. As to the 'holes', they appear to be visible from one direction but appear closed from the other, more like staggered bricks vs. mesh pattern. It looks like it still allows air flow just fine. Sorry I can't 'boost' you. I'll reach out when I'm ready for the spool winder. |
So I went to install them and AAAaaaak, they didn't fit, then I realized there is a front and back, I reversed it then it dropped it right in I did get some very fine 'hairs' on the side, not enough to be bothersome but I have never seen this before, I sometimes see actual stringing. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: These are the last of the spool holders for the dry boxes. 8 of them require about 25 hours to print. My wife said they are awesome, thanks Obsessed. https://i.imgur.com/Wyf50WW.jpeg 8 at once, you're braver than I am.
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Originally Posted By ScooterInVegas: 15 bodies/doors and 60 axles on H2D plate. https://i.imgur.com/BLJ5qEs.png I'm not seeing any axles.  Either way, I'm not filling my H2D plate full of them. 
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Originally Posted By ScooterInVegas: You need x-ray vision. I've never had ASA come loose from the build plate. https://i.imgur.com/WGsXeBe.png Nice, I love the space saving-ness of your layout.
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: 8 at once, you're braver than I am. |
Who, What, Where? Call Sign, Snowball
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@Obsessed A few quick questions: How many plates should I get from a 1kg spool (assuming 2 per plate) How much desiccant do you put in the container Is stopping to change spools in the middle of a print a big deal or a non issue, there might be a several hour gap between me changing spools. |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: @Obsessed A few quick questions: How many plates should I get from a 1kg spool (assuming 2 per plate) How much desiccant do you put in the container Is stopping to change spools in the middle of a print a big deal or a non issue, there might be a several hour gap between me changing spools. I am doing 4 sets right now and Studio says 330g and 15h41m49s. So 165g per default plate. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: I'm not seeing any axles. Either way, I'm not filling my H2D plate full of them. Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By ScooterInVegas: 15 bodies/doors and 60 axles on H2D plate. https://i.imgur.com/BLJ5qEs.png I'm not seeing any axles. Either way, I'm not filling my H2D plate full of them. I had to go back and look at my time lapse, the first batch I printed, I started out with 1 as a test print.....then loaded the other 7 up to run overnight.  Scooter has put me to shame
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EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: @Obsessed A few quick questions: How many plates should I get from a 1kg spool (assuming 2 per plate) How much desiccant do you put in the container Is stopping to change spools in the middle of a print a big deal or a non issue, there might be a several hour gap between me changing spools. Right at six plates. 12 pods per KG. I had it down to 16 per spool but adjusted it a hair to ensure better print reliability. I put somewhere around 150-175g per pod. I fill them to the top axle. It's just how much fits in my measuring cup that came with my cereal boxes, so no rhyme or reason outside of that.
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My eight pods printed just fine but when I put 32 axles and 8 doors on another plate the axles keep breaking loose. Washed the plate with Dawn and dried it off, axles broke loose. Cleaned plate with Isopropyl alcohol and tried again, axles broke loose. Any suggestions out there to improve adhesion? Used purple stick glue once and I had a heckuva time getting the printed object off the place. |
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@Obsessed, thanks ofr all the help! Question: is it OK to print straight from a sealed bag or better to dry it first? The reason I ask is I put a sealed kilo of filament into a cereal storage (no desiccant) and it's reading 44% whereas all my other dry boxes read 35%, with no desiccant, no filament, nothing. I can only assume the filament is causing a higher humidity and is not really that dry? |
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Always dry it first, and always assume it traveled in a vat of water before they shook it off and vacuum sealed the bag. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
| I need cereal boxes that are non-Prime friendly. Seems all the boxes are discounted with Prime and I don't intend to get Prime. Is there another source that has them at the Prime discount price without Prime. I checked Walmart (I have Plus) and they don't even have a close option that I've found. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By Blob:They do run it through water to cool it off after extrusion. See, as ignorant as I still am I guessed (sort of) right! |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By mvintx: My eight pods printed just fine but when I put 32 axles and 8 doors on another plate the axles keep breaking loose. Washed the plate with Dawn and dried it off, axles broke loose. Cleaned plate with Isopropyl alcohol and tried again, axles broke loose. Any suggestions out there to improve adhesion? Used purple stick glue once and I had a heckuva time getting the printed object off the place. Can you show your sliced plate? What filament, and remind me, P2S? |
 It's not the exact one but it's pretty much the way I laid it out. I merged groups of 8 axles into one, then cloned it. Used 'auto arrange' to locate them. I may not have set the seam to the back. The axles broke free after only a few layers. When I printed your original file with the 2 pods, doors and 8 axles everything printed fine. Sunlu PLA +2.0, 220° nozzle temp, bed temp 55°. Yes, P2S. I just printed the original plate with the pods and doors removed and the 8 axles printed just fine. The failures must have something to do with the way I arranged them on the plate. update: Printed another 32 axles and they did fine. I'm puzzled.  Desiccant was delivered this afternoon. Do you use the little bags or just pour the beads into the pods? |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Desiccant was delivered this afternoon. Do you use the little bags or just pour the beads into the pods? Did the desiccant come in little bags? It's took me a few seconds to figure out what you were asking...I think. If it's loose in a container, just pore it in 1/4 to 1/3ish...maybe half way depending on how much you have. Maybe, I don't know, I'm an idiot. I have a lot of desiccant so I filled mine 1/2 way (to the center dimple) but you don't need that much. |
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Originally Posted By ScooterInVegas: Did the desiccant come in little bags? It's took me a few seconds to figure out what you were asking...I think. If it's loose in a container, just pore it in 1/4 to 1/3ish...maybe half way depending on how much you have. Maybe, I don't know, I'm an idiot. I have a lot of desiccant so I filled mine 1/2 way (to the center dimple) but you don't need that much. Originally Posted By ScooterInVegas: Originally Posted By mvintx: Desiccant was delivered this afternoon. Do you use the little bags or just pour the beads into the pods? Did the desiccant come in little bags? It's took me a few seconds to figure out what you were asking...I think. If it's loose in a container, just pore it in 1/4 to 1/3ish...maybe half way depending on how much you have. Maybe, I don't know, I'm an idiot. I have a lot of desiccant so I filled mine 1/2 way (to the center dimple) but you don't need that much. I'm a bigger idiot then.....I filled all 16 of mine completely full
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EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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Originally Posted By ScooterInVegas: Did the desiccant come in little bags? It's took me a few seconds to figure out what you were asking...I think. If it's loose in a container, just pore it in 1/4 to 1/3ish...maybe half way depending on how much you have. Maybe, I don't know, I'm an idiot. I have a lot of desiccant so I filled mine 1/2 way (to the center dimple) but you don't need that much. Great, thanks. I bought 8 lbs of the damn things so I can probably fill my 10 pods completely, but I like your idea of half-full. What was the dimple for? I remember reading something about it in the description but forgot it. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Great, thanks. I bought 8 lbs of the damn things so I can probably fill my 10 pods completely, but I like your idea of half-full. What was the dimple for? I remember reading something about it in the description but forgot it. It's a perfect place to hide a single unmounted diamond in plain view, sort of like the old shaving cream can with the false bottom. OK I just made that up. There's a little alignment pin in the bottom of your container that lines up with that intention to lock it into place so it doesn't jiggle and slide around when your on the move.... Oh crap, there I go lying willy-nilly like for comedy effect again. The injection molding process for plastic normally leaves at least one little plastic nipple where the plastic is injected into the mold. |
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Originally Posted By fox2008: I'm a bigger idiot then.....I filled all 16 of mine completely full That's enough drying capacity to dry out fully saturated air in the 4L box at STP over 4,000 times.  Like I said on the model page...I like overkill. Or at least the option. Higher capacity also absorbs more faster. That's my primary goal.
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: That's enough drying capacity to dry out fully saturated air in the 4L box at STP over 4,000 times. Like I said on the model page...I like overkill. Or at least the option. Higher capacity also absorbs more faster. That's my primary goal.Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By fox2008: I'm a bigger idiot then.....I filled all 16 of mine completely full That's enough drying capacity to dry out fully saturated air in the 4L box at STP over 4,000 times. Like I said on the model page...I like overkill. Or at least the option. Higher capacity also absorbs more faster. That's my primary goal.When I printed the first 8, I bought a pretty big jug. Other than AMS pods and spool weights, these are my only use for it.....so I figured I might as well fill them up. I still have a little bit left in the jug after filling 16 pods but figured if I end up buying more cereal boxes I'd probably transfer some of it from the existing pods and level them out. I could be dumb and say I won't need anymore boxes but I thought 8 would be plenty when I bought them. Turns out adding a second printer with an AMS, means you obviously "need" to have even more spools available at any given time. See....this shit is why I actively avoid hobbies. I have a walk in safe in the basement and functional machine shop in my garage because of guns, I bought my first 3D printer a year ago and now I have 3. I've had people at work try to talk to me about their drone and I just cover my ears, scream like a bitch and run away.....because I know me to well. I'd buy a $20 drone from Amazon and a year later I'd be $10k deep in building custom drones and have to put an addition on the house. TL/DR....I'm a retard
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EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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Originally Posted By fox2008: When I printed the first 8, I bought a pretty big jug. Other than AMS pods and spool weights, these are my only use for it.....so I figured I might as well fill them up. I still have a little bit left in the jug after filling 16 pods but figured if I end up buying more cereal boxes I'd probably transfer some of it from the existing pods and level them out. I could be dumb and say I won't need anymore boxes but I thought 8 would be plenty when I bought them. Turns out adding a second printer with an AMS, means you obviously "need" to have even more spools available at any given time. See....this shit is why I actively avoid hobbies. I have a walk in safe in the basement and functional machine shop in my garage because of guns, I bought my first 3D printer a year ago and now I have 3. I've had people at work try to talk to me about their drone and I just cover my ears, scream like a bitch and run away.....because I know me to well. I'd buy a $20 drone from Amazon and a year later I'd be $10k deep in building custom drones and have to put an addition on the house. TL/DR....I'm a retard When I had my house built, I had a 16 x 9 reinforced gun room put in the basement. It has its own humidistat for perfect safe-room air, so I know what that's like. Sadly I've pretty much stopped the gun hobby TBH, shooting just got stupid expensive and the land I had to shoot on stopped being available to me, so now there are only indoor ranges around, and I'm not interested in that so much. I had suppressed guns for a reason, and it's not to listen to the dude next to me shoot his AK like a school girl. I got into drones too, never kept my attention. I like cars and helicopters though. One is more fun to beat the crap out of, and the other requires skill and concentration and so is great for taking your mind off work.  Easter Fun with the Kraton 8s Attached File |
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Originally Posted By fox2008: When I printed the first 8, I bought a pretty big jug. Other than AMS pods and spool weights, these are my only use for it.....so I figured I might as well fill them up. I still have a little bit left in the jug after filling 16 pods but figured if I end up buying more cereal boxes I'd probably transfer some of it from the existing pods and level them out. I could be dumb and say I won't need anymore boxes but I thought 8 would be plenty when I bought them. Turns out adding a second printer with an AMS, means you obviously "need" to have even more spools available at any given time. See....this shit is why I actively avoid hobbies. I have a walk in safe in the basement and functional machine shop in my garage because of guns, I bought my first 3D printer a year ago and now I have 3. I've had people at work try to talk to me about their drone and I just cover my ears, scream like a bitch and run away.....because I know me to well. I'd buy a $20 drone from Amazon and a year later I'd be $10k deep in building custom drones and have to put an addition on the house. TL/DR....I'm a retard That's exactly what happened to me. My wife bought me a little $20 amazon drone and within 10 minutes of flying it I said to her "I need to go faster." Next thing you know I'm balls deep in the global FPV drone racing circuit. BTW you should totally get into drones. They're hella fun! |