The thread for new to 3D printing to ask questions (Page 6 of 7)
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Even after drying for over 24 hours, AMS holding at 2% humidity, and printing with 110* bed temp and an 8mm brim I’m still getting lifting on the corners with my ASA. Any ideas?Attached File |
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Originally Posted By plinker8: Even after drying for over 24 hours, AMS holding at 2% humidity, and printing with 110* bed temp and an 8mm brim I’m still getting lifting on the corners with my ASA. Any ideas?https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/434409/image_jpg-3762248.JPG It's not a moisture issue. Large squarish parts like that are very difficult without high chamber temps. If you can't get it up to 60C you could try printing it with ASA-CF. Alternatively you can add a generous corner radius if your design allows which should help. |
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Originally Posted By plinker8: Even after drying for over 24 hours, AMS holding at 2% humidity, and printing with 110* bed temp and an 8mm brim I’m still getting lifting on the corners with my ASA. Any ideas?https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/434409/image_jpg-3762248.JPG You need a chamber heater for large parts like that.For medium sized parts, 60C minimum. For large parts, 65C is better. I've printed perfectly square parts 280mm long with zero warping out of both Asa and ABS but had chamber at 65C. You could look at Panda Breath. It's not perfectly integrated but it's the best solution for Bambu printers without a build in chamber. |
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I managed to print this console organizer for my van with ABS in my P2S with no warping or corner pulling. I forgot what the bed was, but pretty sure it was 100°C. I also turned off the right fan. Chamber got into the upper 50's by the time the print was done. I might have also preheated the bed to help with this before sending the print job. Not my picture: 
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Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By SandHillsHillbilly:Yes Claude works similar to Chatgpt but before I added Fusion MCP I was able to generate stp files in Claude and then open them in Fusion. It was back and forth lots of revisions but worked. Now with Fusion MCP it can generate and open the file directly in Fusion. If you use Fusion MCP you have to open Fusion first and have it completely running before using Claude Desktop because Claude checks to see if Fusion is running. One thing it does that I don't like it can overload the editable Project file limit. I usually just keep mine empty and open from folder on PC. My first Claude AI Fusion Project https://imgur.com/axy1Pca https://imgur.com/BnvHfeE https://imgur.com/CQO0ESg What I was working on tonight. That took awhile because getting the correct specs off the internet is crazy. Everyone has their own version of what AN Fittings are suppose to be listed as and the specs have changed over the years plus having similar parts that have a different spec. That is a -12 AN ORB port. I am having Claude generate a plugin to install in Fusion so all I have to do is select a face and a center point and it will put whatever size AN port I want in an object. I can use it then to create custom parts and fitting as well. https://imgur.com/7I00gQC I'm going to look more into this for sure. While I don't mind learning to model my own stuff, I think for some things this will be huge for an application like I want. Even if I only tweak it after. I was telling my wife of the color options I have with ASA for the trellis signs and she has decided that I can print new signs annually if needed with PETG. 
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Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By Blob: It's not a moisture issue. Large squarish parts like that are very difficult without high chamber temps. If you can't get it up to 60C you could try printing it with ASA-CF. Alternatively you can add a generous corner radius if your design allows which should help. Originally Posted By Blob: It's not a moisture issue. Large squarish parts like that are very difficult without high chamber temps. If you can't get it up to 60C you could try printing it with ASA-CF. Alternatively you can add a generous corner radius if your design allows which should help. Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: You need a chamber heater for large parts like that.For medium sized parts, 60C minimum. For large parts, 65C is better. I've printed perfectly square parts 280mm long with zero warping out of both Asa and ABS but had chamber at 65C. You could look at Panda Breath. It's not perfectly integrated but it's the best solution for Bambu printers without a build in chamber. I see, thank you guys. I was thinking that 50+ chamber temps would be enough after pre heating for half an hour. Oh well. This part does have a 10mm radius on the corners inside for added strength but even that’s not enough I’m seeing. Off to do some shopping 
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What filament spool clip do you all like best? Sure I could print a bunch and try, but y’all have to have a favorite. I did some in PLA when I first started and they are great, even AMS2 friendly, but PLA. I want something for my Bambu Spool and high temp spools. It doesn’t have to be “mounted” to the spool, it would be great if it is safe for the dryer though. So I’m planning to print in ABS or ASA. Sunlu spools have enough flex in the holes that it doesn’t kink the filament so I’m not worried about it. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: What filament spool clip do you all like best? Sure I could print a bunch and try, but y’all have to have a favorite. I did some in PLA when I first started and they are great, even AMS2 friendly, but PLA. I want something for my Bambu Spool and high temp spools. It doesn’t have to be “mounted” to the spool, it would be great if it is safe for the dryer though. So I’m planning to print in ABS or ASA. Sunlu spools have enough flex in the holes that it doesn’t kink the filament so I’m not worried about it. I like this one for Bambu spools, it keeps everything inside the spool so it can rotate while drying without hitting the rollers. The downside is, it has to go on a specific side of the spool in the AMS2 or it hits the little guide tabs. 2 locations have to go on the left and 2 have to go on the right....minor enough of an inconvenience that I haven't put any effort into finding a different option. I printed mine out of ABS so I wouldn't need to worry about drying temp for 99% of the spools it's likely to be used on. https://makerworld.com/en/models/1378317-filament-clip-for-bambu-lab-spools#profileId-1426220 I've also printed some of these for non Bambu spools....they do a decent enough job for storage but don't work in the AMS. https://makerworld.com/en/models/407145-the-universal-filament-clip#profileId-309226 |
EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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I don't use filament clips. IMO they are completely unnecessary on most spools, especially Bambu and Sunlu spools. Ever notice that the holes on the side perfectly fit filament? That's not an accident. Pull it tight and pop it in whatever hole is viable. |
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I have seen the holes, and use them. My concern was the sharp bending of the filament when pulled out of the holes and that jamming in the tubing/print head. Is that not a problem? I don't mind using the holes, just don't want to jam up my machine if I can help it. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: I have seen the holes, and use them. My concern was the sharp bending of the filament when pulled out of the holes and that jamming in the tubing/print head. Is that not a problem? I don't mind using the holes, just don't want to jam up my machine if I can help it. The holes don't work well for rigid carbon fiber filled materials so I use a clip. You can trim the bends off before inserting into the machine. It's only like $.001 worth of material, if even that. |
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Originally Posted By Blob:The holes don't work well for rigid carbon fiber filled materials so I use a clip. You can trim the bends off before inserting into the machine. It's only like $.001 worth of material, if even that. That's fair. The way I think though, over the long haul it would be cheaper to print some clips and not have to waste more each time I swap spools. I haven't tried any reinforced types of filament yet. Soon I'll get there though. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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The left clip here is the grandma's favorite filament clip on printables. It works fine, it's a little annoying to get the tab inserted under a strand but it does allow the spool to spin in a dryer or ams and also allows it to lay flat on a shelf. This one needs some pretty decent print accuracy otherwise it doesn't hold tight enough. The middle clip is one I designed to fit polymakers 3mm thick spool walls. I like it because it's quick and easy to clip on, it holds firmly, and it's low profile, but it's sensitive to variations in spool thickness. I will probably refine it at some point to work better across a wider range of spools. I used to shove the carbon fiber materials through one hole in the spool but that left the free end dangling in the breeze and would snap off when I laid the spools down on a shelf which is what spurred me to make this clip. You could also use a simple small binder clip like this which would adapt to any thickness spool automatically and then simply feed the free end through the gap. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Blob: The holes don't work well for rigid carbon fiber filled materials so I use a clip. You can trim the bends off before inserting into the machine. It's only like $.001 worth of material, if even that. Literally never had an issue. Might not be talking the same thing. This is PETG CF and PLA CF. Attached File Attached File Works fine? I do the same thing on Prusa spools too. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Literally never had an issue. Might not be talking the same thing. This is PETG CF and PLA CF. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/14068_jpg-3762711.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/14070_jpg-3762712.JPG Works fine? I do the same thing on Prusa spools too. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/14071_jpg-3762714.JPG I did basically the same thing but I'd have three or four inches sticking out otherwise it would come out of the hole too easily. What happens when you graze the free end or it gets jostled loose? Can't lay the spool on its side or stack them next to each other. Seems like a lot of risk when such a simple and easy solution exists for only the cost of 2 grams of filament. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I did basically the same thing but I'd have three or four inches sticking out otherwise it would come out of the hole too easily. What happens when you graze the free end or it gets jostled loose? Can't lay the spool on its side or stack them next to each other. Seems like a lot of risk when such a simple and easy solution exists for only the cost of 2 grams of filament. I store them all in dry boxes. I don't think I've ever bumped one loose? Not saying filament clips are inherently bad. I just don't see the need. Maybe if I had polymaker still as a primary filament I'd consider it. I tried them back in the day and found that they popped loose fairly often so once I switched away from Polymaker (I used 5kg spools primarily back then regardless) I just started sticking the filament in the holes. It worked so never changed, and many common brands have similar holes, so it has worked for me anyway. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-:Literally never had an issue. Might not be talking the same thing. This is PETG CF and PLA CF. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/14068_jpg-3762711.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/14070_jpg-3762712.JPG Works fine? I do the same thing on Prusa spools too. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/14071_jpg-3762714.JPG I never thought to put the filament in those holes. Mind blown again. I generally use cereal boxes now with longer storage in the 20L tubs. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
 I'm cleaning up my printer area, more like taking over a barely used workbench. I'm running out of white PETG printing off Obsessed's box holders. I'm going to put tubs under the bench for filament I barely use (PLA) and some on the far right where the old computer is right now. I need 7 more dual box holders to fill the wall. Plus I have enough room for boxes under the first elevated row. I'm also moving my AMS to the wall mount. I just got my tubing in from Amazon but since I'm printing I couldn't move it yet. The boxes of unopened BBL filament are ABS colored refills. I don't have high temp spools, so I'm waiting to clear out some of my other BBL ABS/ASA to migrate them over to production. Behind those boxes are sealed PLA spools. I'm also going to have to upgrade my lighting from clamp lamps on extension cords to a nice LED bar overhead that is switch controlled. I figure an 8' one like I have over my deep sink will be perfect over this area. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
 I finished with the cereal box holders, though I had to do the top row in ABS because I ran out of PETG. Now I can print TPU from the wall right next to the printer or print the spool holder that goes under the AMS wall mount I printed. I'll likely just go with figuring out how to print from the cereal box so I don't have to fight the humidity in my basement. I also have room for an H2D on the left (or H3D by the time I actually buy it). Obsessed, mind modifying (or adding) your AMS desiccant holder middle one to have the rectangular hygrometer? |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: https://turtle2472.com/ar15/IMG_2414_20260519.jpeg I finished with the cereal box holders, though I had to do the top row in ABS because I ran out of PETG. Now I can print TPU from the wall right next to the printer or print the spool holder that goes under the AMS wall mount I printed. I'll likely just go with figuring out how to print from the cereal box so I don't have to fight the humidity in my basement. I also have room for an H2D on the left (or H3D by the time I actually buy it). Obsessed, mind modifying (or adding) your AMS desiccant holder middle one to have the rectangular hygrometer? I replaced the flip up lid on my TPU specific cereal boxes with something like this. There are a bunch of different versions on MW. https://makerworld.com/en/models/871156-dry-box-lid#profileId-823139 You can feed the TPU into the printer without taking the lid off at all (with or without the TPU Feed Assist). To unload you have to open the back of the lid enough to get a finger in and wind the filament back up on the spool. I've been thinking of ways to deal with that without taking the lid off but haven't dug into it too seriously yet. 
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EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: https://turtle2472.com/ar15/IMG_2414_20260519.jpeg I finished with the cereal box holders, though I had to do the top row in ABS because I ran out of PETG. Now I can print TPU from the wall right next to the printer or print the spool holder that goes under the AMS wall mount I printed. I'll likely just go with figuring out how to print from the cereal box so I don't have to fight the humidity in my basement. I also have room for an H2D on the left (or H3D by the time I actually buy it). Obsessed, mind modifying (or adding) your AMS desiccant holder middle one to have the rectangular hygrometer? Yeah I can look at it but its going to be a bit, Im absolutely slammed right now. Been working 70-80 hour weeks since January, and won't let up for a few more weeks most likely. |
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Originally Posted By fox2008:I replaced the flip up lid on my TPU specific cereal boxes with something like this. There are a bunch of different versions on MW. https://makerworld.com/en/models/871156-dry-box-lid#profileId-823139 You can feed the TPU into the printer without taking the lid off at all (with or without the TPU Feed Assist). To unload you have to open the back of the lid enough to get a finger in and wind the filament back up on the spool. I've been thinking of ways to deal with that without taking the lid off but haven't dug into it too seriously yet. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/397309/unnamed-3755571.jpg Originally Posted By -Obsessed-:Yeah I can look at it but its going to be a bit, Im absolutely slammed right now. Been working 70-80 hour weeks since January, and won't let up for a few more weeks most likely. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
| I got some Sunlu ASA in today and want to dry it. The spool is rated <70 but the drying temp seems to be 85. How should I do this? 70 for 12 hours? |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: I got some Sunlu ASA in today and want to dry it. The spool is rated <70 but the drying temp seems to be 85. How should I do this? 70 for 12 hours? Blue spool? I dry at 75-80C pretty regularly with those and have never had an issue. They put ABS on those spools too. |
| Yeah, it is the dark blue ones. I don’t have a picture of it now, but my ABS and ASA from Sunlu are on the same spools as PETG and all of them have <70 on the label. The spool itself doesn't, just the label. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Is anyone using the Voxel filters for Bambu printers? Just wondering if they make a difference. I print mostly PETG and ABS with some PLA, ASA, and Nylon. A mix of normal and CF/GF. Voxel H2 Filter. Not a shill and have no connection to this company, just looking for others experiences. |
Who, What, Where? Call Sign, Snowball
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Originally Posted By Saker13: Is anyone using the Voxel filters for Bambu printers? Just wondering if they make a difference. I print mostly PETG and ABS with some PLA, ASA, and Nylon. A mix of normal and CF/GF. Voxel H2 Filter. Not a shill and have no connection to this company, just looking for others experiences. I have a similar filter type on my core ones and it is marginally effective with PLA and the filters don't last that long. For ABS it's essentially worthless. You'll want an internally recirculating filter with activated charcoal or fume extraction. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I have a similar filter type on my core ones and it is marginally effective with PLA and the filters don't last that long. For ABS it's essentially worthless. You'll want an internally recirculating filter with activated charcoal or fume extraction. |
Who, What, Where? Call Sign, Snowball
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Originally Posted By Blob: I thought the H2 had recirculating filtration already Hell, I think I printed a MakerWorld Carbon filter container for either the H2D or X1C a while back. May need to look into changing that filter media... |
Who, What, Where? Call Sign, Snowball
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-:Blue spool? I dry at 75-80C pretty regularly with those and have never had an issue. They put ABS on those spools too. Originally Posted By turtle2472:Yeah, it is the dark blue ones. I don’t have a picture of it now, but my ABS and ASA from Sunlu are on the same spools as PETG and all of them have <70 on the label. The spool itself doesn't, just the label. Just so I'm clear, these spools you regularly bake at above 70°C?  
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Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: Just so I'm clear, these spools you regularly bake at above 70°C? https://turtle2472.com/ar15/IMG_2437_20260524.jpeg https://turtle2472.com/ar15/IMG_2438_20260524.jpeg Yep. Havent noticed anything yet. YMMV.
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| Do y’all have an opinion about TPU like 95A? There is a Sunlu multicolor 10 pack that seems like a great start, I’m looking to get started with something. Today we realized I’m missing a tub stop my kids ran off with. Would be nice to just print one off. I want to be able to make nice rest pads on some stands, maybe basic gaskets and such. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: Do y’all have an opinion about TPU like 95A? There is a Sunlu multicolor 10 pack that seems like a great start, I’m looking to get started with something. Today we realized I’m missing a tub stop my kids ran off with. Would be nice to just print one off. I want to be able to make nice rest pads on some stands, maybe basic gaskets and such. TPU is interesting. It has crazy good layer adhesion and is super tough. I printed a cane tip to go on the end of my walking stick a couple years ago and other than it being dirty you can hardly tell it's been used. Can be somewhat tricky to print but overall not too bad. Vary the infill and wall count to adjust its squishiness. |
| I ended up ordering a black and transparent TPU 95A (Sunlu) from Amazon to play with. The reviews are interesting. Seems a lot of spool come "wavy" but generally the reviews are it prints good. I'll start with some simple MakerWorld prints where I don't have to think just to play. Once those get good I figure I should have a refined configuration of spool holder and printhead arranged. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: I ended up ordering a black and transparent TPU 95A (Sunlu) from Amazon to play with. The reviews are interesting. Seems a lot of spool come "wavy" but generally the reviews are it prints good. I'll start with some simple MakerWorld prints where I don't have to think just to play. Once those get good I figure I should have a refined configuration of spool holder and printhead arranged. I know TPU gets a bad rap for being difficult to print but I've had really good luck with 85A / 90A / 95A.....the only one I've ever had issues with was TPU Air, it's a cool filament but also a strange animal. Just keep the spool dry and I'll bet you'll be ok. Like Blob said, don't be afraid to play with the wall count and infill settings, it has a huge impact on how flexible the final print is. |
EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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How trusting of the filament type in a shared profile (MakerWorld almost exclusively) should I be? One of my son’s friends asked for a print to be done. It is a MagSafe charger holder for VESA 100. In this case it is beefy enough that PLA is likely fine, it is what the profile marked. I realized though, I regularly just use PETG or even ABS instead. Maybe I’m “just getting lucky” but I’ve also had great success changing the selected filament and hitting print. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: How trusting of the filament type in a shared profile (MakerWorld almost exclusively) should I be? One of my son’s friends asked for a print to be done. It is a MagSafe charger holder for VESA 100. In this case it is beefy enough that PLA is likely fine, it is what the profile marked. I realized though, I regularly just use PETG or even ABS instead. Maybe I’m “just getting lucky” but I’ve also had great success changing the selected filament and hitting print. When you change the filament it loads that filament's settings under the filament menus. So you get the infill, wall count, etc that the part had, and only filament settings like print temp, retract, chamber temp, etc get overwritten with the new filament type. So yeah, chances are youre fine. With PLA and PETG those are easy buttons. Primting with ABS youre more likely to get heat artifacts in certain situations, or ASA you may have bridging issues that you need to tweak dor aomrthing sliced for PLA, but the vast majority of the settings are more part geometry dependent than filament dependent. |
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Thanks. That makes a bit more sense. Am I the only one that my printer video doesn't work in the Bambu Handy of Studio anymore? Yesterday it was good until midday or so when it stopped. All other metadata is pushing through fine though. So I'm getting updates on which layer it is laying, filament usage, etc... just no video. Maybe there is a new update required as part of this feud over their open source... |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: Thanks. That makes a bit more sense. Am I the only one that my printer video doesn't work in the Bambu Handy of Studio anymore? Yesterday it was good until midday or so when it stopped. All other metadata is pushing through fine though. So I'm getting updates on which layer it is laying, filament usage, etc... just no video. Maybe there is a new update required as part of this feud over their open source... Zero issues for me on 3 different printers |
EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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Originally Posted By fox2008:Zero issues for me on 3 different printers Thanks. Guess I'll reboot it after it finishes this print. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By dragoontwo: Hey obsessed or anybody who cycles. Do you have a favorite design on any of the maker sites for holding all the riding gear? Like what? I have a bikepackimg setup so I have copious amounts of storage. Happy to answer what I do or would recommed. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Like what? I have a bikepackimg setup so I have copious amounts of storage. Happy to answer what I do or would recommed. I meant for wall storage of helmets and other gear. If you have one what do you like/dislike about it? |
Sic Semper Oppai
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Originally Posted By Blob: TPU is interesting. It has crazy good layer adhesion and is super tough. I printed a cane tip to go on the end of my walking stick a couple years ago and other than it being dirty you can hardly tell it's been used. Can be somewhat tricky to print but overall not too bad. Vary the infill and wall count to adjust its squishiness. 
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01010111 | 57 | 127 | LXXXVII
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Originally Posted By dragoontwo: I meant for wall storage of helmets and other gear. If you have one what do you like/dislike about it? Wish I had a cool answer for you. I have a Kallax cube storage container by the door to the garage that holds all my cycling gear. And all the kids' gear as well. I have a cube within it that holds my cycling sunglasses, Sena helmet, Edge 1040 Solar, Varia, battery bank, water bladder, and shoes. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Wish I had a cool answer for you. I have a Kallax cube storage container by the door to the garage that holds all my cycling gear. And all the kids' gear as well. I have a cube within it that holds my cycling sunglasses, Sena helmet, Edge 1040 Solar, Varia, battery bank, water bladder, and shoes. Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By dragoontwo: I meant for wall storage of helmets and other gear. If you have one what do you like/dislike about it? Wish I had a cool answer for you. I have a Kallax cube storage container by the door to the garage that holds all my cycling gear. And all the kids' gear as well. I have a cube within it that holds my cycling sunglasses, Sena helmet, Edge 1040 Solar, Varia, battery bank, water bladder, and shoes. That's ok. You got what works for you. I'll just keep exploring the models out there and see if I can find something I like. |
Sic Semper Oppai
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: What filament spool clip do you all like best? Sure I could print a bunch and try, but y’all have to have a favorite. I did some in PLA when I first started and they are great, even AMS2 friendly, but PLA. I want something for my Bambu Spool and high temp spools. It doesn’t have to be “mounted” to the spool, it would be great if it is safe for the dryer though. So I’m planning to print in ABS or ASA. Sunlu spools have enough flex in the holes that it doesn’t kink the filament so I’m not worried about it. @turtle2472 A couple weeks late on the reply here but for Bambu spools, I like these. https://makerworld.com/en/models/740214-infinity-filament-clip-bambu-lab-reusable-spool?from=search#profileId-695214 They keep the end of the filament from snagging on stuff inside the AMS when drying, don't require you to bend the filamentl, and don't get in the way at all. They fit the spools that come with Bambu filaments but if you have printed spools from the built-in stl files on your Bambu printer, you have to enlarge the holes with a 9/64" drill bit to use these. |
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