3D suppressors (Page 11 of 11)
|
Originally Posted By Blob: I did one with the same texture. I could send you my file if you use orca slicer https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000022354_jpg-3822332.JPG Looks very clean. Nice detail on the knurling. I'd love to see your Orca file. I have it installed but haven't used it very much. Got my filament back in the dryer for another try at those threads. Wonder what the diff is between the .5 and .6 that it would fail so quickly. Same filament, same settings I imagine. Makes me wonder about the PCC flow I just printed. You ought to report your findings to the FTN group, I'm sure they'd like to know about it. They have always responded to my emails. |
|
Originally Posted By mvintx: Looks very clean. Nice detail on the knurling. I'd love to see your Orca file. I have it installed but haven't used it very much. Got my filament back in the dryer for another try at those threads. Wonder what the diff is between the .5 and .6 that it would fail so quickly. Same filament, same settings I imagine. Makes me wonder about the PCC flow I just printed. You ought to report your findings to the FTN group, I'm sure they'd like to know about it. They have always responded to my emails. The FTN.5 is a larger diameter and has a thicker wall. Way more surface area for layer bonding. Attached File |
|
Originally Posted By Blob: The FTN.5 is a larger diameter and has a thicker wall. Way more surface area for layer bonding. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/Screenshot_2026-09-04_202928_jpg-3822344.JPG From the FTN.6 rimfire assembly instruction sheet; The goal of this project is to match the performance of the FTN.5 Rimfire Slim, but in a much smaller package. We're trying to get closer to the size of commercial 22 cans. The redesigned conical baffles are more efficient than the K baffles, but they're not as heat resistant. I guess the .6 is designed for the casual .22 plinker. My .5 rimfire can has been subjected to a lot of rapid fire...about 250 rounds thus far. Not a definitive test though. |
|
Originally Posted By Blob: Did some mag dumping with one of my PA6-CF FTN.5 rimfires on a Ruger Mk2. I ran 150 rounds of Federal bulk and CCI Blazer through the can, rapid fire, stopping twice to reload my five mags. The highest temperature I recorded with my FLIR TG56 was 128C (262F) at the proximal end of the suppressor. I didn't notice any loss of sound reduction performance and the can didn't show any signs of drooping. After cooling down I took it off and inspected it. The texturing in the blast chamber looks pristine, however the first baffle shows some pretty significant melting/erosion. It was still working fine and I had no trouble hitting an 8" gong at 30 yards so accuracy didn't seem to suffer. I did the same test with an FTN.6 rimfire and it only lasted about 55-60 rounds before splitting in half at the blast chamber due to the much smaller cross section. It does appear that the first baffle was beginning to erode even after just 50 or so rounds. Still super happy with both designs and they both sound amazing! The FTN.5 is an absolute beast and the FTN.6 makes an excellent choice on a rifle that sees much lower temps and pressures at the muzzle. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000022348_jpg-3822316.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000022350_jpg-3822318.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000022353_jpg-3822319.JPG FTN.6: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000022041_jpg-3822320.JPG In some of the read me they recommend spraying the baffles with high temp paint to keep it from eroding the blast chamber as much. Wonder if that would help. |
|
Originally Posted By memsu: In some of the read me they recommend spraying the baffles with high temp paint to keep it from eroding the blast chamber as much. Wonder if that would help. Yeah, I've seen that. I can see that with the cans that have a larger threaded opening but with the rimfire cans I don't know how much paint you could get in there through the 3/4" threaded opening. And the FTN6s are using a 5/8-24 thread to save weight. I guess you could spray the shit out of it but I'm not sure how much paint will make it past the first baffle, with either design. Guess it wouldn't hurt though. |
Easily irritated engineer of odd things
Joined:
Jul 2008
Posts:
32153
EE: 100% (5)
MN, USA
|
Originally Posted By mvintx: Yeah, I've seen that. I can see that with the cans that have a larger threaded opening but with the rimfire cans I don't know how much paint you could get in there through the 3/4" threaded opening. And the FTN6s are using a 5/8-24 thread to save weight. I guess you could spray the shit out of it but I'm not sure how much paint will make it past the first baffle, with either design. Guess it wouldn't hurt though. |
Once you realize that all power comes from the credible threat of the use of deadly force, and the gov't hates you, most things become easy to understand..
|
About 2/3 of the way through this print. 9mm boosterless k can. Using the FTN.6 design and recommended 300blk print settings. 
|
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
|
Did some testing today. No cans blew up this time, which is nice. One of the rimfire flow cans seems to cause keyholing despite seemingly not touching the round. I guess I need to open it up a bit. Does anyone happen to know the actual bore of the FTN5 rimfire flow, and if the narrowest point is just at the endcap or if I should open up the baffle holes as well? The other rimfire flow did great. |
Participation in the rights of citizenship presumes participation in the duties of citizenship
|
Originally Posted By CFletch: Did some testing today. No cans blew up this time, which is nice. One of the rimfire flow cans seems to cause keyholing despite seemingly not touching the round. I guess I need to open it up a bit. Does anyone happen to know the actual bore of the FTN5 rimfire flow, and if the narrowest point is just at the endcap or if I should open up the baffle holes as well? The other rimfire flow did great. All the baffles and endcap diameters are the same at .2952in (7.5mm) |
|
I'm not new to printing suppressors in metal, but I had a friend print out a monocore-type .22lr design I'd been puttering with on his Bambu X2d. It didn't come out like I'd hoped, but I'm not sure if this is because of the limits of the filament, printer, or the operator. :) What's the thinnest wall / structure y'all have been able to print where the thing doesn't fall apart during printing or removal of any support material? Some baffle edges are 1.5mm thick. I didn't make anything smaller than that, other than some leading edges. But he said the prints kept breaking when he removed support structures. I'm not sure why there even WAS support material, so I'm wondering if he just printed it wrong? |
|
Originally Posted By kel: I'm not new to printing suppressors in metal, but I had a friend print out a monocore-type .22lr design I'd been puttering with on his Bambu X2d. It didn't come out like I'd hoped, but I'm not sure if this is because of the limits of the filament, printer, or the operator. :) What's the thinnest wall / structure y'all have been able to print where the thing doesn't fall apart during printing or removal of any support material? Some baffle edges are 1.5mm thick. I didn't make anything smaller than that, other than some leading edges. But he said the prints kept breaking when he removed support structures. I'm not sure why there even WAS support material, so I'm wondering if he just printed it wrong? |
|
Originally Posted By Blob: All the baffles and endcap diameters are the same at .2952in (7.5mm) Do you happen to know the bore size of the 9mm FTN5 cans, specifically the PCC Flow? At least one of those was also giving dodgy accuracy and probably needs opened up as well. |
Participation in the rights of citizenship presumes participation in the duties of citizenship
|
Originally Posted By CFletch: I'll open it up to 5/16"/0.3125 and see if that fixes it. Do you happen to know the bore size of the 9mm FTN5 cans, specifically the PCC Flow? At least one of those was also giving dodgy accuracy and probably needs opened up as well. 9mm PCC flow bore diameter is 10.5mm (.4134 in) |
|
Originally Posted By CFletch: Did some testing today. No cans blew up this time, which is nice. One of the rimfire flow cans seems to cause keyholing despite seemingly not touching the round. I guess I need to open it up a bit. Does anyone happen to know the actual bore of the FTN5 rimfire flow, and if the narrowest point is just at the endcap or if I should open up the baffle holes as well? The other rimfire flow did great. I had the same thing with the FTN5 flow. It is great on my bergara .22, and maintains accuracy. On my Glock 44 everyone would keyhole but did not look like any contact. The FTN5 slim seemed ok. And the ftn6 I think is ok. I was only shooting steel with the ftn6 but 1 or 2 rounds per mag made me question accuracy. I need to setup a paper target but I have been lazy and trying to prep for youth deer season. |
|
Has anyone tried anything besides the ftn cans? I'm curious if the "lunchable" rail mounted can/compensator will work on a p22 instead of the tx22 it was designed for. I have a p22 that I bought specifically to be a host before Washington state allowed the use of silencers, based on a magazine article about the p22 and aac pilot. Lol It has the worst poi shift when I put my sparrow on it, where the sparrow has basically zero poi shift on anything else I try it on. I'm not sure if it's the weight of the can making the barrel or frame flex enough to be way off or what but it's terrible. I'm thinking a rail mounted can that's probably lighter than the sparrow might be a better option for that pistol. |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
|
Originally Posted By CFletch: Did some testing today. No cans blew up this time, which is nice. One of the rimfire flow cans seems to cause keyholing despite seemingly not touching the round. I guess I need to open it up a bit. Does anyone happen to know the actual bore of the FTN5 rimfire flow, and if the narrowest point is just at the endcap or if I should open up the baffle holes as well? The other rimfire flow did great. FTN5 slim hex caused absolute dogshit accuracy on my Sig pistol. Which is unfortunate because it’s really freaking quiet. I’m going to open the bore up in Solidworks and possibly entertain epoxying a thin wall CF tube around it since it’s being used on a tilting barrel pistol and I don’t feel like dealing with it snapping in half where they made it thin |
|
Originally Posted By Network_Daddy: Listened to a FTN.5 on a Walter P22 using mini mags. Did not seem to be very quiet with the 30mm can at all, and the larger size printed can exploded. My FTN.5s on a ruger mk2 with blazer and federal bulk pack sound amazing and don't explode. |
|
Originally Posted By Blob: My FTN.5s on a ruger mk2 with blazer and federal bulk pack sound amazing and don't explode. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By Network_Daddy: Listened to a FTN.5 on a Walter P22 using mini mags. Did not seem to be very quiet with the 30mm can at all, and the larger size printed can exploded. My FTN.5s on a ruger mk2 with blazer and federal bulk pack sound amazing and don't explode. A lot of the noise on pistols is from the action opening and letting noise out the port. Also, the Walther only has a 3.2" barrel, so higher pressures in the can as well. Between the two, yeah, it'll be louder, and break a can more than something like a MK2 which has even just an additional 1.3 inches of barrel legnth. Also, how did the can come apart - actual explosion, or separate on layer lines? Designing any can is a balance of competing requirements. For 3dp on a really short barrel like that, you need thicker walls and a larger blast chamber. Which means more rugged, but also more weight, a longer can, and a bit more FRP. IMHO, good designs will also have the blast baffle noticeably thicker than the subsequent baffles. Let me take a look at the FTN.5 "rimfire slim 30mm" design. It looks like its blast chamber is ~10% smaller than the design I use for PA6, but its walls around the blast chamber are 2.5mm, where I'm using 4.5mm around the blast chamber, and 3.5mm elsewhere. Who knows whether the guy with the can used good practice, like annealing and then allowing to re-hydrate. But if nothing else, bumping the outer wall of the FTN.5 design out another millimeter would likely help. My design with thicker walls, on a 4.5" barrel, handles rapid-fire of minimags just fine. |
|
Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: A lot of the noise on pistols is from the action opening and letting noise out the port. Also, the Walther only has a 3.2" barrel, so higher pressures in the can as well. Between the two, yeah, it'll be louder, and break a can more than something like a MK2 which has even just an additional 1.3 inches of barrel legnth. Also, how did the can come apart - actual explosion, or separate on layer lines? Designing any can is a balance of competing requirements. For 3dp on a really short barrel like that, you need thicker walls and a larger blast chamber. Which means more rugged, but also more weight, a longer can, and a bit more FRP. IMHO, good designs will also have the blast baffle noticeably thicker than the subsequent baffles. Let me take a look at the FTN.5 "rimfire slim 30mm" design. It looks like its blast chamber is ~10% smaller than the design I use for PA6, but its walls around the blast chamber are 2.5mm, where I'm using 4.5mm around the blast chamber, and 3.5mm elsewhere. Who knows whether the guy with the can used good practice, like annealing and then allowing to re-hydrate. But if nothing else, bumping the outer wall of the FTN.5 design out another millimeter would likely help. My design with thicker walls, on a 4.5" barrel, handles rapid-fire of minimags just fine. For fun I've tried almost all the versions of the FTN 22lr and 9mm stuff. My general opinion is they're "meh", as in they work, but aren't very well optimized for size or sound. I think they spent too much effort trying to make them easy to print; I'm OK with running on the edge of what's printable given the drastically better performance that can be had. I have 12+ versions of just 22lr suppressors that I've designed, machined or printed, and tested over the years (mostly recently). Some are machined from barstool, some fit into an aluminum sleeve, some are 100% printed. I've mainly used PA6gf/cf or PPA-CF/GF but recently have found some of the better resins to be more useful for the more difficult 3D designs with multiple flow paths. |
|
Originally Posted By CFletch: anyone think an enlarged-bore FTN5 rimfire flow would hold up to .32 ACP from a vz61? I'm thinking of trying one with a 0.40" bore. I'm running 3.5-1.5mm variable wall thickness on 9mm with a tapered bore from .39-.411 and it holds up fine till meltdown. |
|
I guess I might as well give it a shot, since $11 of filament isn't exactly bankrupting me. I modded a FTN5 Rimfire Flow with a 9.144mm bore (0.36") using a negative cylinder in the slicer, and will add another wall layer to strengthen it a bit (going from the recommended 3 wall loops to 4 wall loops in this one). I'll test it on a vz61 at some point. |
Participation in the rights of citizenship presumes participation in the duties of citizenship
|
Originally Posted By Blob: My FTN.5s on a ruger mk2 with blazer and federal bulk pack sound amazing and don't explode. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By Network_Daddy: Listened to a FTN.5 on a Walter P22 using mini mags. Did not seem to be very quiet with the 30mm can at all, and the larger size printed can exploded. My FTN.5s on a ruger mk2 with blazer and federal bulk pack sound amazing and don't explode. The can printed at .2mm blew, but the .4mm didn't. |
Fighting for underscores everywhere.
|
Originally Posted By CFletch: I guess I might as well give it a shot, since $11 of filament isn't exactly bankrupting me. I modded a FTN5 Rimfire Flow with a 9.144mm bore (0.36") using a negative cylinder in the slicer, and will add another wall layer to strengthen it a bit (going from the recommended 3 wall loops to 4 wall loops in this one). I'll test it on a vz61 at some point. Let us know how that works. I've got a couple of VZ61 kits I'm itching to finish. |
|
Originally Posted By mvintx: Let us know how that works. I've got a couple of VZ61 kits I'm itching to finish. Originally Posted By mvintx: Originally Posted By CFletch: I guess I might as well give it a shot, since $11 of filament isn't exactly bankrupting me. I modded a FTN5 Rimfire Flow with a 9.144mm bore (0.36") using a negative cylinder in the slicer, and will add another wall layer to strengthen it a bit (going from the recommended 3 wall loops to 4 wall loops in this one). I'll test it on a vz61 at some point. Let us know how that works. I've got a couple of VZ61 kits I'm itching to finish. |
Participation in the rights of citizenship presumes participation in the duties of citizenship
|
Originally Posted By Network_Daddy: The can printed at .2mm blew, but the .4mm didn't. I was thinking of trying my FTN Comstock PCC on it...probably a bit large for a 7.65 diameter bullet but it might be acceptable. I used to print the cans at .24 balanced strength but have been using .2 lately. Wonder if that's been part of my layer adhesion problem on the overhangs. Learned an interesting tidbit about outer walls. I was looking at speed in the slicing results and all the overhangs show they'll be printed at 30mm/s. Turns out the overhangs are considered an outside wall. Slowing the speeds down to 10mm/s adds about 2-1/2 hours to the print but I think it's worth trying. |
|
Originally Posted By mvintx: I was thinking of trying my FTN Comstock PCC on it...probably a bit large for a 7.65 diameter bullet but it might be acceptable. I used to print the cans at .24 balanced strength but have been using .2 lately. Wonder if that's been part of my layer adhesion problem on the overhangs. Learned an interesting tidbit about outer walls. I was looking at speed in the slicing results and all the overhangs show they'll be printed at 30mm/s. Turns out the overhangs are considered an outside wall. Slowing the speeds down to 10mm/s adds about 2-1/2 hours to the print but I think it's worth trying. I printed my cans low, slow, and hot... 0.15mm, 30mm/s forced, with slower overhangs, and 300*c. |
post_count += 1
PGP: 912E3E9A194DED4E47DA0BA9D593AD70C8C12B9C
PGP: 912E3E9A194DED4E47DA0BA9D593AD70C8C12B9C
| I tested the modified FTN5 Rimfire flow with the bore opened up to .36" with a vz61. It worked well and really quieted the gun down. The can is not wide enough to block the sights. |
Participation in the rights of citizenship presumes participation in the duties of citizenship
|
Originally Posted By Kharn: @scul 0.6mm nozzle? Originally Posted By Kharn: Originally Posted By scul: I printed my cans low, slow, and hot... 0.15mm, 30mm/s forced, with slower overhangs, and 300*c. @scul 0.6mm nozzle? Speaking of... Is it OK to use a .6 nozzle for PLA on rimfire cans? |
|
Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Speaking of... Is it OK to use a .6 nozzle for PLA on rimfire cans? Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Originally Posted By Kharn: Originally Posted By scul: I printed my cans low, slow, and hot... 0.15mm, 30mm/s forced, with slower overhangs, and 300*c. @scul 0.6mm nozzle? Speaking of... Is it OK to use a .6 nozzle for PLA on rimfire cans? |
Participation in the rights of citizenship presumes participation in the duties of citizenship
|
Originally Posted By CFletch: just buy cheap PA6-CF for $10 more per kg, the difference in longevity is massive Originally Posted By CFletch: Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Originally Posted By Kharn: Originally Posted By scul: I printed my cans low, slow, and hot... 0.15mm, 30mm/s forced, with slower overhangs, and 300*c. @scul 0.6mm nozzle? Speaking of... Is it OK to use a .6 nozzle for PLA on rimfire cans? I don't have an enclosure, I do place a cardboard box over the printer to keep drafts out. I have no idea if I can get the enclosure warm enough to make a PA6 CF print work. |
|
Originally Posted By bmarshall1: I don't have an enclosure, I do place a cardboard box over the printer to keep drafts out. I have no idea if I can get the enclosure warm enough to make a PA6 CF print work. Consider PA612-CF. I've gotten great results and my enclosure doesnt get above 90f. Bonus is that its much less hygroscopic than PA6. |