M1337 3d Printed Gatling Gun in Beta (Page 3 of 9)
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Originally Posted By Ozymandiaz: Also, a 12mm x 18mm steel assembly pin / dowel pin is the perfect size for the strikers and can be bought at most industrial suppliers. I'm still looking at buying tungsten rod for this. I found two and a half inch chunks for $22 |
WhyTanFox : "the world is exponentially more complicated every decade, yet at the same time it has become increasingly simple to demonstrate your ignorance to a large audience. "
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Originally Posted By Postal0311: Man, printing the bolt carriers is kicking my ass. Everything else printed nicely except these are coming out with one side round and the other a grossly deformed oval. I'll get it sorted out. Just annoyed at the issue. I tried printing them with ABS and they just squashed towards the bed. Same printer with PLA is just fine. |
WhyTanFox : "the world is exponentially more complicated every decade, yet at the same time it has become increasingly simple to demonstrate your ignorance to a large audience. "
| I dunno why I just thought of this, but if your clutch was engaged while you were trying to reverse it and the bolts were installed then it's probably the strikers hitting the flat face of the drop off point just above the safety. That would cause it to hard stop at that point for sure, but I wouldn't have that occur because I haven't installed my strikers yet. |
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Originally Posted By Ozymandiaz: I dunno why I just thought of this, but if your clutch was engaged while you were trying to reverse it and the bolts were installed then it's probably the strikers hitting the flat face of the drop off point just above the safety. That would cause it to hard stop at that point for sure, but I wouldn't have that occur because I haven't installed my strikers yet. Strikers not installed. I went out there and played with it a little more and it's working now in reverse but it still catching a little bit on something somewhere. It wasn't binding on a particular barrel it was binding on all of them so it's more than likely a ridge on the cam path somewhere |
WhyTanFox : "the world is exponentially more complicated every decade, yet at the same time it has become increasingly simple to demonstrate your ignorance to a large audience. "
Built the tripod over the weekend. Still waiting to get over to the lathe and turn the strikers. 
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WhyTanFox : "the world is exponentially more complicated every decade, yet at the same time it has become increasingly simple to demonstrate your ignorance to a large audience. "
I've got my strikers made now using 6 x 1mm threaded stainless rod for the bearing posts and 12mm x 18mm stainless for the striker body. My bearings are press fit on the posts so they shouldn't come loose  . They're pretty easy to thread in and out to adjust height for the cam channel in the receiver, once height is determined (instructions say .33") a small drop of blue locktite should keep it from turning in or out when cycling and still allow disassembly (theoretically!).Using my file for the bolt cam pins I'm having the pins 3d printed in steel, aluminum, and titanium for giggles rather than grinding or machining down regular AR pins. Price was only about $4 per pin in steel or aluminum (titanium was about $18  ). I'm also having a spare set of striker bodies 3d printed in stainless steel to see how they look, price on those was only about $6 each 
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I still think striker body's in tungsten will help with light strikes, but I'm going to try regular steel first. I like your threaded post idea. I might stop and get some threaded rod and do the same. You didn't flute the sides of the striker to reduce friction? |
WhyTanFox : "the world is exponentially more complicated every decade, yet at the same time it has become increasingly simple to demonstrate your ignorance to a large audience. "
I actually beefed up the spring slightly (1.6mm wire x 30mm length) and will adjust there for primer hits before changing the mass of the strikers themselves. I used 12mm rod for the strikers and that is enough undersized that it doesn't need any fluting (.47" instead of half inch). My carbon fiber tubes came in so I finally got to finish the tripod and holy crap this thing looks great!  
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Originally Posted By Ozymandiaz: I actually beefed up the spring slightly (1.6mm wire x 30mm length) and will adjust there for primer hits before changing the mass of the strikers themselves. I used 12mm rod for the strikers and that is enough undersized that it doesn't need any fluting (.47" instead of half inch). My carbon fiber tubes came in so I finally got to finish the tripod and holy crap this thing looks great! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/398541/1000078013-3201700.jpg Awesome. Now do a pintle mount, mount it on a pickup truck and drive down I-5 ? No seriously this this is awesome. I can't wait for the range report :) |
In case you're wondering about the avatar pic:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4ARGjbA14g
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4ARGjbA14g
It's official, a 1" or 25mm carbon fiber tube for the center post of the barrel cluster works just fine. It doesn't help weight distribution / balance but does cut overall weight significantly VS a solid aluminum rod or even the .25" wall aluminum tube I was using. This is a 25mm OD x 20mm ID tube I'm using so it's pretty stout. Better yet it looks good and matches the carbon fiber tripod legs  
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| Actually thinking about it it would still be opaque because of the thickness of the walls in the infill. |
WhyTanFox : "the world is exponentially more complicated every decade, yet at the same time it has become increasingly simple to demonstrate your ignorance to a large audience. "
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I have a "clear" plastic AR15 lower that is just cool for showing people how they work. It's not strong enough for real firing though. How cool would it be to see the moving parts inside the gatling? |
WhyTanFox : "the world is exponentially more complicated every decade, yet at the same time it has become increasingly simple to demonstrate your ignorance to a large audience. "
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locked mine up hard. Gonna have to take it apart tomorrow. Was installing my 4th striker (been running all 6 no striker for a few days) and it got about half way around and locked. |
WhyTanFox : "the world is exponentially more complicated every decade, yet at the same time it has become increasingly simple to demonstrate your ignorance to a large audience. "
My metal 3d printed strikers and cam pins should arrive tomorrow or Friday, if you believe FedEx. The manufacturer was closed for a week for Labor Day / May Day so the job took twice as long but at least shipping should be quick. 
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I disassembled mine (thankfully it came right apart, it wasn't truly locked up. Both of my cam tracks in the reciever have deformations. I actually downsized the striker springs to test it, and it still created a hole in the plastic right before the metal sear.  
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WhyTanFox : "the world is exponentially more complicated every decade, yet at the same time it has become increasingly simple to demonstrate your ignorance to a large audience. "
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Since it looks like I'm gonna have to reprint my receiver, maybe I should print it in rainbow? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C32NJG3N?tag=arfcom00-20 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081Q78248?tag=arfcom00-20 |
WhyTanFox : "the world is exponentially more complicated every decade, yet at the same time it has become increasingly simple to demonstrate your ignorance to a large audience. "
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Originally Posted By Ozymandiaz: I've seen a few people on the Reddit boards have that issue, that's why I went with carbon fiber PETG for added rigidity in the walls. I think my problem is my striker pins/bearings weren't the right height, or the tilted. 1/4" drill + 1/4" bar stock = slop. I'll look at it more tonight. Maybe I can file/fill the gaps with some epoxy until I re-print the receiver. I have some settings to change for that anyway. |
WhyTanFox : "the world is exponentially more complicated every decade, yet at the same time it has become increasingly simple to demonstrate your ignorance to a large audience. "
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The metal 3d printed cam pins and strikers look great, these are the stainless steel version. They came out slightly undersized (0.38mm or so on the length of the striker rods). That's ok in this use case because the tolerances aren't critical on these parts and I designed these to ream out the holes to final size anyways. Diameter is about the same percentage undersized so I'll have to take that amount of shrinkage into account if I have anything else done that requires more exact tolerances. The cam pins for the bolts look almost perfect, a bit of reaming on the firing pin hole and they'll be just right I think.   
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Originally Posted By Ozymandiaz: The metal 3d printed cam pins and strikers look great, these are the stainless steel version. They came out slightly undersized (0.38mm or so on the length of the striker rods). That's ok in this use case because the tolerances aren't critical on these parts and I designed these to ream out the holes to final size anyways. Diameter is about the same percentage undersized so I'll have to take that amount of shrinkage into account if I have anything else done that requires more exact tolerances. The cam pins for the bolts look almost perfect, a bit of reaming on the firing pin hole and they'll be just right I think. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/398541/1000078038-3209983.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/398541/1000078039-3209984.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/398541/1000078040-3209985.jpg Those look awesome |
WhyTanFox : "the world is exponentially more complicated every decade, yet at the same time it has become increasingly simple to demonstrate your ignorance to a large audience. "
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A thought.. If your striker OD is too small, it could allow it to tilt due to the force pushing it back being on the end of the striker pins. |
WhyTanFox : "the world is exponentially more complicated every decade, yet at the same time it has become increasingly simple to demonstrate your ignorance to a large audience. "
| I conjured up another idea to simplify my threaded striker bearing post idea and make it more accessible (off-the-shelf parts!). A m6x1 hollow threaded nipple 15mm length (available on Amazon as a 10 pack lamp repair part). This will be the main striker bearing rod that threads into the striker body. The center hole should be roughly 3mm diameter so I'm going to insert a m3 threaded 20mm length headless / grub screw into it and glue / epoxy it in place. That 3mm is the diameter for the bearing, which slips over the end with the hex head socket and gets glued / epoxied in place. Now the threaded bearing rods are much easier to spin in/out of the strikers for disassembly of the barrel cluster / bolts and they'll stay in place much better than a regular post with a hole drilled into the striker. Once I get the parts this weekend and put them together I'll post pics and links. |
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The metal link issue may be solved soon https://www.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/1coct8n/progress_on_metal_m1337_links/ |
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Originally Posted By ginger-mech: The metal link issue may be solved soon https://www.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/1coct8n/progress_on_metal_m1337_links/  Very impressive |
"Whoever came up with that video needs Jesus?and some stitches for that blown-out rectum. Ick. "
--system
--system
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Alrighty! I've got my striker bearing pins version 201.5 made and they seem to work fine cycling around the barrel cluster / receiver (haven't done a live fire with them yet). Building from my threaded striker idea I bought a bag of M6 x 15mm length threaded hollow rods. These fit the M6 threaded hole in the strikers, and inside the hollow rods are M3 x 20mm grub screws secured with Loctite 480. The striker bearings are glued to the end of the M3 grub screws, again with Loctite 480 (which is just about the best adhesive I've found for making random stuff stick to other random stuff). The threading lets me set the height of the bearing so it engages the striker channel without digging into it from being too tall. A bit of blue loctite or even teflon tape on the main threaded portion of the bearing pin should keep it in place once the correct height is determined. A finished striker on the left, M3 x 20mm grub screw lower right, and a M6 x 15mm threaded hollow rod above that:  Assembled bolt (using my metal 3d printed cam pin on the bolt side):  |
| Haven't live fired it yet with the new bolt parts but lots of empty cycling with snap caps. Everything is installed and it seems fine, I did change out the striker springs for slightly lighter gauge wire but longer (1.2mm wire x 40mm length) and the strikers feel much smoother now. |
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I'm waiting for access to my lathe (at buddy's house who's on vacation) to make a new set of strikers. I got parts to try @Ozymandiaz 's idea for threaded M6 pins n bearings. Ozyman have you tried yours yet? J |
WhyTanFox : "the world is exponentially more complicated every decade, yet at the same time it has become increasingly simple to demonstrate your ignorance to a large audience. "
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Still no live fire with the new parts for me, my limited free time the last three weeks has been going into converting my old Ender 5 into a Mercury 1.1 corexy printer. It's printing, but I have to redo the entire raspberry pi 4 to the latest version so the stupid webcam works
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Originally Posted By doc_Zox: A clever man might print this in wax and bronze vacuum cast the final parts https://machinablewax.com/wax-filament/ that would b yooti-full! would the weight affect the function though?? |
I am not an AFT agent.