Posted: 9/7/2009 9:38:42 PM EDT
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I will be working alone on a small project that will require quite a bit of leveling. Should I just use a water level or is a laser lever really worthwhile having when working alone? Can you see the line in bright sunlight? Is a camera tripod acceptable or is a more robust tripod a big benefit?
Who makes a good, cost-effective one? |
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By laser level do you mean one of the rotary models that projects the 360 degree line? If so, I've never used one. They look useful, but I had a transit, a water level, a full set of Stabila levels (including the bad-ass 8-12' plate level) and a chalk line. The only things I could see the rotary laser level being useful for is if I were doing a lot of wall tile or chair rail molding, which I did not.
What are you leveling? If it's foundation or floor work, the transit and water level are most useful (IMO). Yes, you can use a transit with one person, it just takes a while longer. Above the floor, a standard 4' or 6' level, a measuring tape, and a chalk line will do for 99% of the time. If you need a third hand to hold a level, be creative! Duct tape, nails, magnets, all will do the trick. ETA: If you get one of those rotary levels, I would use the tripod that comes with it. It's made to be used together and some units may actually require their proprietary tripod––not 100% on the last part, though. Oh, and BTW, Taunton has a forum on homebuilding much like this one called Breaktime. I used to be a frequent contributor there (before I changed careers). Lots of builders and handymen there that can help you. |
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Quoted:
I will be working alone on a small project that will require quite a bit of leveling. Should I just use a water level or is a laser lever really worthwhile having when working alone? Can you see the line in bright sunlight? Is a camera tripod acceptable or is a more robust tripod a big benefit? Who makes a good, cost-effective one? When my parents had an area in their yard leveled for a shed the guys that came out used a laser on a tripod that spun around 360 degrees. They then had a post with a receiver on it that had something like 2" of wiggle room in the receiver. One of the guys would walk around the leveled area putting the post to the ground. He'd get a tone each time the laser hit in the sweet spot. When he didn't get a tone he'd have to check to see if the laser was above or below the 2" sweet spot. Then he'd check the surrounding areas to see if he should add or remove dirt to level things out. |
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Describe the project.
How large of an area will it be? What exactly will you be levelling - drop ceiling, concrete footings, large patio, the bottom of two pits for a twin tank septic system? How will you be levelling it - road grader, back hoe, shovel and wheelbarrow, your hands? How level do you want your project to be and how level does it truly need to be? The visible lasers are NOT easy to see in bright daylight. VERY DIFFICULT in fact. If you are using one outside during the day you will need a sensor. Sensors typically mount on a grade rod with a plastic bracket that allows one person to quickly take height measurements. Even if you are working indoors with good lighting you will need a plastic target to pick up the beam on a white wall unless the rotating head speed is really slow (1 rps or less) or the rotation is confined to about 30 degrees (lasers with this capability are expensive). Outdoor lasers are typically IR anyway. The range is better. Camera tripods have what - a 1/4x28 screw or something like that? The rotating laser standard mount on tripods is a 5/8-11 thread. Tripods are hefty, generally for stability when heavy equipment is operating nearby, or when the wind blows. Speaking of wind and laser levelling, I have seen air currents flicker a pipe laser beam up and down a full INCH over a couple hundred feet, in a temperature controlled space with very still air. If you do wind up buying one go with Leica, Topcon, or Trimble (Spectra Physics) I'd be happy to answer other questions or update my opinion if you can provide more details. I will say that you can do some good sized projects with either a water level or a string level and some masonry line for cheap. |
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Thanks, guys, you guys have confirmed my suspicion about these inexpensive, rotating laser levels. I think I will stick to a water level. They are very low cost and fairly effective. I will be using it to establish a level line at the two ends of a room.
Later, I will set the pitch of the roof rafters based upon this level (X drop over 12 ft span). It's a very shallow pitch, almost flat, so being off by an inch or two is a big deal. |
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Good lasers are awesome in the right application - hook a sensor up to a bulldozer blade and the operator gets told to cut or fill (or on the $$$ systems the blade goes up and down automatically). Or for a contractor that does a lot of drop ceilings in commercial buildings. Or for the guy with an excavator digging basements in a housing development.
For your project I think you made the right decision - stick with something inexpensive and spend that cash on something else. |
| I am (re)considering all my tools and jigs and methods of work which will facilitate this project when working alone. If I can buy a gizmo that makes an operation feasible (or a LOT easier) when working alone, I don't mind buying it. In the case of a laser level, I think I will keep my money in my pocket. |