Posted: 4/23/2009 2:17:43 PM EDT
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Quick question.
I have an extra bag of Scott's Winterguard Fertilizer (22-2-14) that I didn't get to put down last fall. I know it's a fertilier and it would help the lawn if I put it down, but I wanted to see what everyone else's opinion is on whether I should go ahead an put it down now (becuase I am too lazy to go to the store and buy a new bag) or if I should get of my kester and just buy some regular fertilizer and save this bag for the fall when technically it's supposed to go down? Ideas ... let's hear them. Thanks |
| Compared to the fertilizer you'd normally buy this time of year (Crabgrass control, Step 1, Moss Control, or regular Scotts Turfbuilder), it's a bit low in the Nitrogen content. It's also extremely high in the potash content. It's not ideal for this time of year, but it'd probably work decent enough. |
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Quoted:
Compared to the fertilizer you'd normally buy this time of year (Crabgrass control, Step 1, Moss Control, or regular Scotts Turfbuilder), it's a bit low in the Nitrogen content. It's also extremely high in the potash content. It's not ideal for this time of year, but it'd probably work decent enough. 22 is high for nitrogen (N-P-K). 
Nitrogen-Phosphorous-Potassium |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Compared to the fertilizer you'd normally buy this time of year (Crabgrass control, Step 1, Moss Control, or regular Scotts Turfbuilder), it's a bit low in the Nitrogen content. It's also extremely high in the potash content. It's not ideal for this time of year, but it'd probably work decent enough. 22 is high for nitrogen (N-P-K).
Nitrogen-Phosphorous-Potassium It's low in relation to most of the other products I mentioned. Turfbuilder: 29 Super Turfbuilder: 30 Turfbuilder w/ Halts: 30 Step 1: 32
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Compared to the fertilizer you'd normally buy this time of year (Crabgrass control, Step 1, Moss Control, or regular Scotts Turfbuilder), it's a bit low in the Nitrogen content. It's also extremely high in the potash content. It's not ideal for this time of year, but it'd probably work decent enough. 22 is high for nitrogen (N-P-K).
Nitrogen-Phosphorous-Potassium It's low in relation to most of the other products I mentioned. Turfbuilder: 29 Super Turfbuilder: 30 Turfbuilder w/ Halts: 30 Step 1: 32
Ah, gotcha. Thanks for clarifying. 
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Quoted:
I usually use something similar to their "Starter" fertilizer this time of the year, like a 20-27-5. Here grass is just beginning to think about greening, so I like something that helps the roo growth. With that said, what the hell do I know, I am a plumber  I'm no expert, but I'd bet the main thing is to get something down to act as food. Getting too hung up on the exact numbers will not make a significant difference in the outcome, in all likelihood. It's hard to beat good old "triple thirteen" (13-13-13), put down fairly heavily. It's also good to use a "weed and feed" this time of year, as the 2,4,d will kill the dandelions and other nasties that begin growing early. |
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All you can do for weeds now is a post emergent.
Triple 13 is good to go. That bag of scotts should be fine, might as well use it, if you dont keep it dry, even bagged and factory sealed, it will still absorb moisture over time. Also dont get all hung up on nitrogen, while it is great, it is mainly for top growth, to make things green fast, you need to feed the roots to have a healthy lawn. |
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Quoted:
I usually use something similar to their "Starter" fertilizer this time of the year, like a 20-27-5. Here grass is just beginning to think about greening, so I like something that helps the roo growth. With that said, what the hell do I know, I am a plumber Same here, then triple 16 later. Feeding the roots help the grass choke out weeds. Don't now a thing about fertilizers, only grow up in an apple and pear orchard, only had my own orchard for years and only worked in a hardware store for 10 years. Most people use 80lbs or less per year on their lawns, we used 80lb bags of fertilizer and used it by the tons. |
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All you can do for weeds now is a post emergent. Please explain. I've got dandylions and a few others up already (MI), but there are other weeds that haven't appeared yet. Will a pre-emergent work on those? Any idea how to get rid of the wild violets? That bag of scotts should be fine, might as well use it, if you dont keep it dry, even bagged and factory sealed, it will still absorb moisture over time. I've got a bunch of fertilizer left over from previous years. As long as its still gradular and not clumped together, is it still OK to use? FYI, a few questions in red above. My lawn isn't the worst on the street, but its in the bottom half! What's the best way to realy get the grass back up to par? It was totally neglected by the previous owners, and according to the neighbors I've made great gains, but this summer I really want it to fill in and green up w/o all the damn weeds! I'm working from home now, so I have some extra time to take care of it. Any info/recommendations would be appreciated! Thanks! K |
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I'm not who you asked but I can tell you the "post emergent" just means 2,4,d. It's a common chemical used to kill broadleaf weeds, which leaves the grass alone. It works on weeds that are already growing. The other thing, which must be applied early, is pre-emerge crabgrass control, which keeps crabgrass from getting started each year. Too late for that now.
Your old fertilizer will be fine as far as potency, but if it has drawn moisture it will be clumped up. This must be remedied in order to get it to go through a spreader. Easy to do––but make sure you do it thoroughly. A plugged spreader is a PITA. 
ETA: The violets should die with the 2,4,d (commonly sold as "weed and feed" in fertilizer, or you can buy the liquid form and spray it on). If not you can spot spray them with Roundup (glyphosate). Be careful if spot spraying, as Roundup will kill everything green it touches––even the finest bit of invisible mist. |