Posted: 2/19/2015 12:04:17 PM EDT
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We moved into our home (new construction) in October 2014. We were warned that there may be some cracking in corners, due to the home shifting and settling. We've noticed a few, but they're so minute that we'll be able to take care of them with some touch-up paint.
However, I recently noticed a pretty large crack (roughly 2 feet long) near the ceiling of the master bedroom. I'm a first time home owner, so I essentially know nothing about home repairs or home construction. I met up with the construction manager at my house on my lunch break, and he said that it appeared to be the drywall tape separating. He recommended that we caulk it and paint over. Knowing nothing about how drywall is installed, I took his word for it. When I made it back to work, I decided to educate myself on how drywall is installed (mude, tape, etc.) and repaired. Everything that I've come across seems to indicate that this type of crack should be repaired by redoing the mud and tape, and that caulk should only be used for very small cracks. I don't have any of the tools necessary to make such a repair, and our walls are also textured. If I were to attempt such a repair, I'd have a 2 foot long smooth spot in a sea of texture. The home has a one year warranty, and given all the factors presented, I feel that it's a repair the builder should take care of. Am I in the wrong? I'll try to get some pics up in a bit. TL;DR New construction home, one year warranty on materials, been living there about 5 months, huge crack in drywall, builder says to caulk it and paint, every contractor on the internet says it should be repaired with new mud/tape, who is right? |
| The home should not shift or settle. The foundation being solid is a must otherwise you'll have some serious cracks over time. Aslo the lumber used should be dry or when it dries it might warp. It doesn't take much time or many tools to repair. Google some videos first. But I'd make the contractor do it. |
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Drywall tape separating is different than a stress crack, and it should be easy to identify. If the joint is starved for mud it needs to be redone and it should be under builders warranty.
Settlement cracks or stress cracks in a new house might be indicative of a serious problem. A starved joint is just poor workmanship. Have the builder fix it and move on. |
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tell the builder to get his lazy ass over there and fix his work. rarely does a house that is built properly have stress cracks from settlement The above advice is the correct advice since you didn't buy a new home as a fixer upper. Don't let them caulk it as the problem is with the install and will continue if it isn't fixed correctly. |
Looks like a outside corner, the metal or plastic corner bead has come loose, when the stud dried out. Nail it and refinish. Let the drywall contractor do it so you can call them back when it happens again. I've got thirty five years in the drywall business customer service is what its all about.
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You don't caulk cracks in a wall. You might spackle them or use joint compound. Don't use caulk.
Talk about a red flag going up,...if it was the builder who warned of possible settling and subsequent damage, you should warn the builder of impending law suit for defective product. No matter, the builder should fix this and do a good job so it is undetectable. That includes the texture. |
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Quoted:
Looks like a outside corner, the metal or plastic corner bead has come loose, when the stud dried out. Nail it and refinish. Let the drywall contractor do it so you can call them back when it happens again. I've got thirty five years in the drywall business customer service is what its all about. That's what it looks like to me too. The structure is drying and the cracks usually start to appear during the first heating or cooling season. OP Personally, I would go through one full heating or cooling season before telling the GC to make repairs. Additional cracks may appear prior to this coming spring and that way they can all be dealt with at the same time. Regardless of how you proceed, this is the builder's responsibility. |
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That happens a lot here in Colorado.
I replace the metal bead with paper faced metal bead like Beadex. Haven't had it pop since switching, It is a ton of work though. If you want to use metal bead you can use paper drywall tape to cover the edge of the metal bead to drywall to stop the splits. Not sure why metal bead is still popular with such better options available now. Good Luck |
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That happens a lot here in Colorado. I replace the metal bead with paper faced metal bead like Beadex. Haven't had it pop since switching, It is a ton of work though. If you want to use metal bead you can use paper drywall tape to cover the edge of the metal bead to drywall to stop the splits. Not sure why metal bead is still popular with such better options available now. Good Luck Cost is King. Metal bead and a crimp tool goes very fast and is cheap. You do not even need to nail the bead. Just slide the crimp tool along and hit it with a hammer to anchor. |