Posted: 9/29/2011 3:16:51 AM EDT
| I'm about to order the DeWalt router edge guide. DW6913. It has four stars on amazon.com, but some of the reviewers say that is flexes. Is there something better out there to go with a DeWalt router? |
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I use a Porter Cable one but I have a PC router. Just looked at the DeWalt one and it looks ok to me.
Note, I think I've actually used mine 2-3 times. You might also consider a straight edge clamped to your work. Something like this http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2080310/28348/56-WoodRiver-Guide-Rail.aspx Also very useful for breaking down large sheets of plywood (what I use mine for) |
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Thanks. I use clamped guides with a circular saw quite well, but I'm not sure if I can use it just as steadily with a router.
ETA: Reading some more, people comparing it to the PC edge guide, say this is a lower quality. I'll try a guide first before I spend any money on this. |
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If you are routing edges, consider changing your thinking, altogether. Edges are best routed using bits with ball bearing centers/guides. http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/products/129657_400.jpg Edge guides have their purpose but I'm not sure what they are. :-) In addition to flex, there's the problem of tilt. If you wanted to rout a dado parallel to a work piece's side and didn't have a router table, you'd use an edge guide. |
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Look on line at Rockler, or go to a store if you are lucky enough to have one in your area. Be sure to get the catalog. I use clamp on edge guides for sawing and routing. I also made my own router table with the t-nuts and fixtures they sell.
Warning: Rockler is a very dangerous site, and will most likely, require some budgetary adjustments to recover from a visit. Their self branded raised panel bits work very nicely, btw.. 
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If you wanted to rout a dado parallel to a work piece's side and didn't have a router table, you'd use an edge guide. Edge guides are not for dadoing, they are to follow an edge of the workpiece and restrict the depth of cut by the bit. For dadoing, you need a fence, not an edge guide. The edge guides I have sit at the bottom of a pile of junk in the back of my garage. My ball bearing bits, on the other hand, never get rusty. I'm exaggerating a little bit but not much. |
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If you wanted to rout a dado parallel to a work piece's side and didn't have a router table, you'd use an edge guide. Edge guides are not for dadoing, they are to follow an edge of the workpiece and restrict the depth of cut by the bit. For dadoing, you need a fence, not an edge guide. The edge guides I have sit at the bottom of a pile of junk in the back of my garage. My ball bearing bits, on the other hand, never get rusty. I'm exaggerating a little bit but not much. Um, an edge guide is a fence that attaches to a router. |
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If you wanted to rout a dado parallel to a work piece's side and didn't have a router table, you'd use an edge guide. Edge guides are not for dadoing, they are to follow an edge of the workpiece and restrict the depth of cut by the bit. For dadoing, you need a fence, not an edge guide. The edge guides I have sit at the bottom of a pile of junk in the back of my garage. My ball bearing bits, on the other hand, never get rusty. I'm exaggerating a little bit but not much. Um, an edge guide is a fence that attaches to a router. I give up, you're hopeless.
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If you wanted to rout a dado parallel to a work piece's side and didn't have a router table, you'd use an edge guide. Edge guides are not for dadoing, they are to follow an edge of the workpiece and restrict the depth of cut by the bit. For dadoing, you need a fence, not an edge guide. The edge guides I have sit at the bottom of a pile of junk in the back of my garage. My ball bearing bits, on the other hand, never get rusty. I'm exaggerating a little bit but not much. Um, an edge guide is a fence that attaches to a router. I give up, you're hopeless. You should search DW6913 and see it used. |
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Guess I don't know what I'm talking about when it comes to woodworking. I was thinking of using my edge guide on my router this weekend to mill some mortises in some 3 x 3 Ash posts for my workbench. Think a bearing guided bit will work for this instead?  A pattern collar and a uniform diameter plunge bit would be a lot better. The problem with edge guides is they only limit router travel in one direction. A pattern and a pattern collar would trap the router bit in all directions. |
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Guess I don't know what I'm talking about when it comes to woodworking. I was thinking of using my edge guide on my router this weekend to mill some mortises in some 3 x 3 Ash posts for my workbench. Think a bearing guided bit will work for this instead? A pattern collar and a uniform diameter plunge bit would be a lot better. The problem with edge guides is they only limit router travel in one direction. A pattern and a pattern collar would trap the router bit in all directions. Too late, already done. I layed out my mortises, mounted my edge guide on my router, installed a spiral cutting bit and went at it. Took 15 minutes to route my 8 mortises. My post above was sarcasm. I do woodworking professionally on the side. |
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Guess I don't know what I'm talking about when it comes to woodworking. I was thinking of using my edge guide on my router this weekend to mill some mortises in some 3 x 3 Ash posts for my workbench. Think a bearing guided bit will work for this instead? A pattern collar and a uniform diameter plunge bit would be a lot better. The problem with edge guides is they only limit router travel in one direction. A pattern and a pattern collar would trap the router bit in all directions. Too late, already done. I layed out my mortises, mounted my edge guide on my router, installed a spiral cutting bit and went at it. Took 15 minutes to route my 8 mortises. My post above was sarcasm. I do woodworking professionally on the side. I would have it done even faster, but i have a hollow chisel mortiser. One that moves the head around, not the wood. |
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A pattern collar and a uniform diameter plunge bit would be a lot better. The problem with edge guides is they only limit router travel in one direction. A pattern and a pattern collar would trap the router bit in all directions. Exactly so, the key issue is control. Still, there are many different ways to do any job. For example, you could also go with a top bearing bit to follow a mortise pattern. I would probably use a hollow mortise chiseler. I also have mortising chisels and a mallet. If you have the inclination and the proper chisels, this is the most fun. Heck, I might even use an edge guide with a spiral plunge bit.
Kidding aside, I made on of my own edge guide, once. It was very robust with a wide and tall fence. Have some fun with it and enjoy the work, professional or hobbyist. |
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I got one of those made by Delta.
Not worth the trouble to own or use. You have to keep moving the wood around to finish the mortise. Better units move the whole head side to side and in and out, allowing for a single fixture of the wood. One of the chief problems with routers is keeping the thing under tight enough control to cut only the wood you want. Plunge style helix bits do not usually have bearings, and the bearing would need to be rather large on a 1/2 inch shank plunge bit. This is really a good place for a guide collar if you do not have access to a good hollow chisel mortiser Edge guides work if you do not care about the cut moving closer to the edge of the board. like a molding pattern. Another pass will clean up any bad spots. Unless the wood is very straight, even using as router table can be counterproductive. The longer fence will not allow an even cut. |