Posted: 9/14/2011 12:58:14 PM EDT
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I'm putting a bathroom (sink, lav, and shower stall) in my basement, wiring and plumbing are all roughed in and ready to hang drywall and have a few questions.
Do I need to use the fancy mold resistant drywall ? There is a decent sized vent fan in the room, not sure what code is here for this. If its not to much more I will most likely use this anyway. The shower unit itself is one of those four piece types (base, back and sides) that snaps together on the base and is screwed directly to the framing, and I'm supposed to cover the screw flange with drywall. When hanging drywall, do I put the taped edge of the drywall against the shower unit, or can the trimmed edge go up against the unit? How about mudding the gap against the shower? Should I put the drywall close and caulk it later, or leave a gap to mud, then caulk? Shower link below: Shower |
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Cement Board is what you want behind tile.
Greenboard for walls not in direct contact with water. If you use regular drywall, you WILL have mild issues. If you use greenboard, you should have fewer mold issues. It's a basement bath so mold issues (no matter HOW good your bathroom venting) are a real concern. The directions call for greenboard and SILICONE caulk. Follow the directions. http://www.sterlingplumbing.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/1156429_2.pdf I would probably put the papered edge against the shower surround |
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I really don't like cement board at all and will try to avoid it whenever possible. If the area is going to be painted I would use green board at the bare minimum or something like Dens armor. If it is going to be tiled, I would look into using kerdiboard.
You won't be disappointed with that Sterling unit, either. Leaps and bounds above the competition. I would never use or spec a caulk together POS tub or shower ever again. |
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I really don't like cement board at all and will try to avoid it whenever possible. If the area is going to be painted I would use green board at the bare minimum or something like Dens armor. If it is going to be tiled, I would look into using kerdiboard. You won't be disappointed with that Sterling unit, either. Leaps and bounds above the competition. I would never use or spec a caulk together POS tub or shower ever again. Could you explain why you don't like cement board? As far as the OP's question, I wouldn't bother to use the Densarmor (sp?) board but it's good from what I understand. Expensive though. I would use the moisture resistant drywall and would also use some Red Guard (or equivalent) around the shower. Will give a little extra protection from moisture. I would use just a light coat and paint it. Some would disagree but I would use semi gloss paint in a bathroom. Make sure that you also have a good vent fan and use it! |
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I really don't like cement board at all and will try to avoid it whenever possible. If the area is going to be painted I would use green board at the bare minimum or something like Dens armor. If it is going to be tiled, I would look into using kerdiboard. You won't be disappointed with that Sterling unit, either. Leaps and bounds above the competition. I would never use or spec a caulk together POS tub or shower ever again. Could you explain why you don't like cement board? As far as the OP's question, I wouldn't bother to use the Densarmor (sp?) board but it's good from what I understand. Expensive though. I would use the moisture resistant drywall and would also use some Red Guard (or equivalent) around the shower. Will give a little extra protection from moisture. I would use just a light coat and paint it. Some would disagree but I would use semi gloss paint in a bathroom. Make sure that you also have a good vent fan and use it! My feelings on cement board - It's an extremely weak product. It wicks water and moisture. It's just outdated with what we have on the market today. For flooring applications, Ditra is better. For walls, Kerdi board is better. As to Densarmor - For the application, the cost difference isn't really all that much. For a typical bathroom you may spend $100 more in materials for a product that is much higher rated. Or you just do the panels around the tub/shower for an extra $25. Paint - personal preference. I use the lowest sheen possible to achieve the task. I can't stand shiny walls. In a bathroom a satin enamel or eggshell is plenty. The quality of the paint is far more important than the sheen. At this point I would recommend Behr Ultra (I can't believe it either) and Ben Moore Aura. On new drywall I use 1 coat of primer and 2 coats of paint. I don't care if it covers in 1, it covers better with 2. Agreed on the vent fan. Even better if you get one with a timer so that it can run for 30 minutes after using the shower. |
| you could use dens armor or denshield instead of drywall... i know the denshield has some texture to it, but i think it's paintable... or, you could probably just use reg drywall, even behind the shower walls (maybe redguard that area?? not sure if it's even needed /w the type of product you are installing?) |
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I really don't like cement board at all and will try to avoid it whenever possible. If the area is going to be painted I would use green board at the bare minimum or something like Dens armor. If it is going to be tiled, I would look into using kerdiboard. You won't be disappointed with that Sterling unit, either. Leaps and bounds above the competition. I would never use or spec a caulk together POS tub or shower ever again. Could you explain why you don't like cement board? As far as the OP's question, I wouldn't bother to use the Densarmor (sp?) board but it's good from what I understand. Expensive though. I would use the moisture resistant drywall and would also use some Red Guard (or equivalent) around the shower. Will give a little extra protection from moisture. I would use just a light coat and paint it. Some would disagree but I would use semi gloss paint in a bathroom. Make sure that you also have a good vent fan and use it! My feelings on cement board - It's an extremely weak product. It wicks water and moisture. It's just outdated with what we have on the market today. For flooring applications, Ditra is better. For walls, Kerdi board is better. As to Densarmor - For the application, the cost difference isn't really all that much. For a typical bathroom you may spend $100 more in materials for a product that is much higher rated. Or you just do the panels around the tub/shower for an extra $25. Paint - personal preference. I use the lowest sheen possible to achieve the task. I can't stand shiny walls. In a bathroom a satin enamel or eggshell is plenty. The quality of the paint is far more important than the sheen. At this point I would recommend Behr Ultra (I can't believe it either) and Ben Moore Aura. On new drywall I use 1 coat of primer and 2 coats of paint. I don't care if it covers in 1, it covers better with 2. Agreed on the vent fan. Even better if you get one with a timer so that it can run for 30 minutes after using the shower. Thanks. Ditra fan myself but haven't used their Kerdiboard. Not sure where to even get it around here (probably could at a tile store). As you've probably noticed, I'm a big fan of Red Guard. Not a cure all but I like it a lot for water protection. I like semi gloss for bathrooms because I usually wipe down the walls a lot...especially around the sink. Semi makes it SO much easier. But, it's a matter of personal preference. I've been mainly using Valspar paint mainly because there is a Lowes close to where I live. I like it. |
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I use the Custom Building Products cement backer board in my shower projects. I am also a fan of Red Guard and have used a lot of it. Read the directions and be sure to apply it to the correct thickness. RedGuard also works as a slip sheet over cracks in concrete when you tile over them.
There is also a newer lightweight product that is similar to drywall in appearance with a blue polymer coating on both sides. I used this in a fireplace surround install, and it is a good and lightweight product to use in a shower surround. Home Depot sells it, but I don't recall the name of it. |
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I use the Custom Building Products cement backer board in my shower projects. I am also a fan of Red Guard and have used a lot of it. Read the directions and be sure to apply it to the correct thickness. RedGuard also works as a slip sheet over cracks in concrete when you tile over them. There is also a newer lightweight product that is similar to drywall in appearance with a blue polymer coating on both sides. I used this in a fireplace surround install, and it is a good and lightweight product to use in a shower surround. Home Depot sells it, but I don't recall the name of it. Thats densshield/densarmour. |
| Installing the same Sterling Ensemble in my basement now, but the tub, not shower basin. Using leftover hardibacker for all the surrounds/walls, and will tile over everything. I won't have a vent/fan but have a window as well as a portable dehumidifier I plan to run 100% of the time in addition to the whole house one in summer and in the winter only if bathroom moisture becomes a problem. Make sure you set it level and place a mortar or even foam bed over it so it won't creek and crack. |
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Using green board behind tile or acrylic is a code violation and stupid. Eventually the paper will lose it's purchase to the rock and tiles will begin to pop off one by one. Cement board or durabacker of type with the correct screws is the only correct option. There are different types of backer board on the market these days. I use standard Home Depot type Durabacker with great success. I don't like to cut cement board because of the fine particulates it produces. I cut durabacker with a diamond wheel on a 4" angle grinder.
Where water is not in direct contact with the board you can tape in green board. |
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I really don't like cement board at all and will try to avoid it whenever possible. If the area is going to be painted I would use green board at the bare minimum or something like Dens armor. If it is going to be tiled, I would look into using kerdiboard. You won't be disappointed with that Sterling unit, either. Leaps and bounds above the competition. I would never use or spec a caulk together POS tub or shower ever again. Could you explain why you don't like cement board? As far as the OP's question, I wouldn't bother to use the Densarmor (sp?) board but it's good from what I understand. Expensive though. I would use the moisture resistant drywall and would also use some Red Guard (or equivalent) around the shower. Will give a little extra protection from moisture. I would use just a light coat and paint it. Some would disagree but I would use semi gloss paint in a bathroom. ETA: The only time you should ever see semi on walls is a bathroom ceiling. Semi is for trim. Make sure that you also have a good vent fan and use it! My feelings on cement board - It's an extremely weak product. It wicks water and moisture. It's just outdated with what we have on the market today. For flooring applications, Ditra is better. For walls, Kerdi board is better. As to Densarmor - For the application, the cost difference isn't really all that much. For a typical bathroom you may spend $100 more in materials for a product that is much higher rated. Or you just do the panels around the tub/shower for an extra $25. Paint - personal preference. I use the lowest sheen possible to achieve the task. I can't stand shiny walls. In a bathroom a satin enamel or eggshell is plenty. The quality of the paint is far more important than the sheen. At this point I would recommend Behr Ultra (I can't believe it either) and Ben Moore Aura. On new drywall I use 1 coat of primer and 2 coats of paint. I don't care if it covers in 1, it covers better with 2. Agreed on the vent fan. Even better if you get one with a timer so that it can run for 30 minutes after using the shower. Behr? Huh? A fan or a window is code. Eggshell, typically speaking is for kid's bedrooms. Drywall should be primed with PVA if it's new and covered uniformly in a bathroom. Bathrooms should carry a semi gloss on the ceiling. Semi gloss is much easier to clean and wipe down than a satin. You can wipe down an eggshell but I've never used it in bathroom. Behr-Home Depot paint has to be the worst product on the planet. I wouldn't use it to kill grass. Benjamin Moore is all I will use. |
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I really don't like cement board at all and will try to avoid it whenever possible. If the area is going to be painted I would use green board at the bare minimum or something like Dens armor. If it is going to be tiled, I would look into using kerdiboard. You won't be disappointed with that Sterling unit, either. Leaps and bounds above the competition. I would never use or spec a caulk together POS tub or shower ever again. Could you explain why you don't like cement board? As far as the OP's question, I wouldn't bother to use the Densarmor (sp?) board but it's good from what I understand. Expensive though. I would use the moisture resistant drywall and would also use some Red Guard (or equivalent) around the shower. Will give a little extra protection from moisture. I would use just a light coat and paint it. Some would disagree but I would use semi gloss paint in a bathroom. ETA: The only time you should ever see semi on walls is a bathroom ceiling. Semi is for trim. Make sure that you also have a good vent fan and use it! My feelings on cement board - It's an extremely weak product. It wicks water and moisture. It's just outdated with what we have on the market today. For flooring applications, Ditra is better. For walls, Kerdi board is better. As to Densarmor - For the application, the cost difference isn't really all that much. For a typical bathroom you may spend $100 more in materials for a product that is much higher rated. Or you just do the panels around the tub/shower for an extra $25. Paint - personal preference. I use the lowest sheen possible to achieve the task. I can't stand shiny walls. In a bathroom a satin enamel or eggshell is plenty. The quality of the paint is far more important than the sheen. At this point I would recommend Behr Ultra (I can't believe it either) and Ben Moore Aura. On new drywall I use 1 coat of primer and 2 coats of paint. I don't care if it covers in 1, it covers better with 2. Agreed on the vent fan. Even better if you get one with a timer so that it can run for 30 minutes after using the shower. Behr? Huh? A fan or a window is code. Eggshell, typically speaking is for kid's bedrooms. Drywall should be primed with PVA if it's new and covered uniformly in a bathroom. Bathrooms should carry a semi gloss on the ceiling. Semi gloss is much easier to clean and wipe down than a satin. You can wipe down an eggshell but I've never used it in bathroom. Behr-Home Depot paint has to be the worst product on the planet. I wouldn't use it to kill grass. Benjamin Moore is all I will use. Moore used to be all I used as well and I still use it. The Behr paint has come a long way from what it used to be. I'm not sure when the last time you used it was, but the Ultra line of paint is very good. The only reason I used it again was because a customer picked out some Behr colors and I figured I'd just grab the paint instead of bringing the colors to my Ben Moore dealer to get matched up. It worked out quite well. As far as paint and priming procedures, I am aware. All new drywall is primed and then painted with 2 coats of paint. Eggshell is rated for more than kids bedrooms. It's use extends to any high traffic area as well as kitchens and baths. Like I said, I prefer a lower sheen when possible. Higher sheens show more of everything. YMMV. While a window is code, I wouldn't just have a window. Who wants to open a window everytime they take a shower in the winter months up here? Fans go into every bathroom, even ones with windows. |
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I really don't like cement board at all and will try to avoid it whenever possible. If the area is going to be painted I would use green board at the bare minimum or something like Dens armor. If it is going to be tiled, I would look into using kerdiboard. You won't be disappointed with that Sterling unit, either. Leaps and bounds above the competition. I would never use or spec a caulk together POS tub or shower ever again. Could you explain why you don't like cement board? As far as the OP's question, I wouldn't bother to use the Densarmor (sp?) board but it's good from what I understand. Expensive though. I would use the moisture resistant drywall and would also use some Red Guard (or equivalent) around the shower. Will give a little extra protection from moisture. I would use just a light coat and paint it. Some would disagree but I would use semi gloss paint in a bathroom. ETA: The only time you should ever see semi on walls is a bathroom ceiling. Semi is for trim. Make sure that you also have a good vent fan and use it! My feelings on cement board - It's an extremely weak product. It wicks water and moisture. It's just outdated with what we have on the market today. For flooring applications, Ditra is better. For walls, Kerdi board is better. As to Densarmor - For the application, the cost difference isn't really all that much. For a typical bathroom you may spend $100 more in materials for a product that is much higher rated. Or you just do the panels around the tub/shower for an extra $25. Paint - personal preference. I use the lowest sheen possible to achieve the task. I can't stand shiny walls. In a bathroom a satin enamel or eggshell is plenty. The quality of the paint is far more important than the sheen. At this point I would recommend Behr Ultra (I can't believe it either) and Ben Moore Aura. On new drywall I use 1 coat of primer and 2 coats of paint. I don't care if it covers in 1, it covers better with 2. Agreed on the vent fan. Even better if you get one with a timer so that it can run for 30 minutes after using the shower. Behr? Huh? A fan or a window is code. Eggshell, typically speaking is for kid's bedrooms. Drywall should be primed with PVA if it's new and covered uniformly in a bathroom. Bathrooms should carry a semi gloss on the ceiling. Semi gloss is much easier to clean and wipe down than a satin. You can wipe down an eggshell but I've never used it in bathroom. Behr-Home Depot paint has to be the worst product on the planet. I wouldn't use it to kill grass. Benjamin Moore is all I will use. Moore used to be all I used as well and I still use it. The Behr paint has come a long way from what it used to be. I'm not sure when the last time you used it was, but the Ultra line of paint is very good. The only reason I used it again was because a customer picked out some Behr colors and I figured I'd just grab the paint instead of bringing the colors to my Ben Moore dealer to get matched up. It worked out quite well. As far as paint and priming procedures, I am aware. All new drywall is primed and then painted with 2 coats of paint. Eggshell is rated for more than kids bedrooms. It's use extends to any high traffic area as well as kitchens and baths. Like I said, I prefer a lower sheen when possible. Higher sheens show more of everything. YMMV. While a window is code, I wouldn't just have a window. Who wants to open a window everytime they take a shower in the winter months up here? Fans go into every bathroom, even ones with windows. I have looked at "Benjamin Moore" printed on remodeling prints way too many times to switch now. I used Behr paint once about 11 years ago and it was like rolling Easter egg dye on the wall. I wouldn't do a bathroom w/o a fan either, just stating the facts....window or fan is code. Wouldn't it be nice if it were 4 years agi and we were so busy we'd have no time to discuss such bullshit? As far as paint, I agree. I hate shiny walls. I still insist on semi white for bath ceilings though, probably always will. besides, one mix of semi white on the ceiling with a hint of difference in your crown looks sweeeeeet |