Posted: 2/2/2008 12:41:35 PM EDT
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'Used to ride.. Thinking about getting back into it... 'Got a line on a used 2002 Kawasaki Concourse 1000cc. I'm wondering... is 31000 miles (50000km)concidered high milage for such a machine..? |
| It depends on how much you want to pay. Look at the tires, fork seals, shock, linkages. Can't remember if it's shaft drive or chain - if shaft, look at all the u joints and if chain, take a good look at the sprockets. 31000 miles since 2002 is not a lot if the guy is a hardcore touring rider (6k/yr could only be commuting miles). See what the guy used it for - if just weekend riding, 31k is not much. If it's a lot of short term commuting, that's another story. |
Good pointers... Thanks They're asking $5900 (Cdn.) A new one runs about $15000 'round here |
Well... Like I said, they're "asking" $5900... Everything is negotiable. If I like it I'll try waving cash under their nose and see if they bite. |
When I first moved to Toronto all I had was a bike. I rode all winter when there was no snow. I worked on bikes for 18 years in Toronto. I didn't see a lot of bikes with 30k. |
| For an older model, about the only things to watch out for are the things that other heavy touring bikes have problems with - worn cush drives and bearings in the rear-end of the shaft drive assembly, worn swingarm bearings, and worn steering head bearings. Be sure that the oil in the rear end was checked and changed religiously. They're expensive when they grenade, and pretty hazardous, as well. It's not usually a problem, but it's probably the most expensive and biggest PITA job on the bike. |
Really...?? Where did you work..? McBride Cycle Folded in 2006 and I think the two big Cycle World stores are closed now too... 'Bought my first bike from them in '91 It's difficult to get honest/accurate history when buying any used vehicle... 'Haven't made up my mind 100% yet, but I'm considering using my immanent mid-life crisis as an excuse to forgo the risk of buying a used machine and opting for new. I appreciate the tips re. what to look at. Now to go find out what a "cush drive" is |
I did my apprenticeship at mcBrides, 80-83 then took a year out of the trade. Worked at Yamaha Toronto, which changed names to Canada Cycle Sports and when they folded I went over to Cycle World east. I worked for Johnny Bent at Bent Bikes for a few years before I left. That was back in the days when Lang Hindle and Reuben McMurter were ruling the superbike scene. ![]() I just found about McBrides closing a couple months back. You can bet some shady shit went on there seeing as how John came out looking good and an 80 year old business folded. Cocaine is a hellofa drug! Cycle World closed? A cush drive is a bunch of rubber blocks that the rear sprocket carrier mounts to in the rear hub. If you pull off the rear wheel, the sprocket will come off without removing any bolts. It's there to cushion the rear hub when you release the clutch. There should be some play in it, not much but some. |
Exactly. Or, in this case, it's what cushions the drive gear and the rear wheel, since there's no "sprocket" present, just the beveled drive gears in the rear end. The assembly for the older Concours models is displayed here: http://delp.net/Concours/Tech/Microfiche/Wheel_Rear/index.htm And the cush drive assembly is 92075 - referred to as "Damper, Shock, Rr Hub". Basically, the rear end gear is attached to this assembly, which is damped through rubber and sometimes oil before the power is transmitted to the rear wheel. When inquiring about a shaft-drive motorcycle, be sure that the cush drive (whatever its form) has been either serviced, checked, or replaced intermittently. Some bikes need them more often than others, but it's not an expensive thing to keep in good shape, especially in comparison to how much replacing the rear end would cost (which is at least $750). |
