Posted: 2/7/2007 4:58:57 PM EDT
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6.2, 1984 Blazer CUCV. It just won't turn over now. Not sure if one of the wires rattled off or not. I took it out and had it tested. Solenoid and starter test okay on the bench. It ran fine until it just wouldn't start the next morning. It has the main large power wire running from the power block to the solenoid and one smaller wire running to a smaller tap on the right. Is there another smaller wire running to the tap on the left as well? I cannot find a second wire dangling anywhere and only those two were connected on removal. Could this be a fuseable link issue and how can I diagnose? I am not a Chevy guy and this re-affirms my hatred of working on GM products. Who was the brainiac that designed this train-wreck? Any info is appreciated. |
| Do you have any power? When you turn on the key, does the radio turn on, dome lights, etc? If not I would def. check out the fuseable links. They are located down by the starter (incase you didn't know). If you run a wire from your positive battery position to the solenoide (sp?), it should have power. If it does, then replace the fuseable links. When you replace them, take the time to run new wires and place the new fuseable links up top where they are easier to reach. If you need pics, I can take some to show you how I did mine. |
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Sorry for any confussion. I do have power to everything, including the starter, so I doubt it is a fuse link issue. The starter will start to turn once - but not fully when the key switch is turned over. I do have power to everything as it is, just the starter will not spin. It worked fine on the bench at the parts store. Scratching head.... My main question is; are there two small wires attaching to the solenoid in addition to the main 4 guage wire applying power, or just one smaller wire in addition to the 4 guage wire? This perplexes me as I'm not a Chevy type guy. I work on Fords and this would have been done a week ago had the logo said "Bronco" on the fender instead. So, power to everything - yes. No fuses blown. Fuseable link okay. Thanks. Alan |
| You need to check battery condition, weal batteries play hell on diesels. if the batteries are good and terminlals are clean and tight, you need to perform volt drops at EVERY connection. They should be less than .1 volt. If all that checks good do a load test on starter. |
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2 wires. One feeds from the battery, one is the signal wire from the ignition switch. Put a test light on the small wire while you have a helper turn the ignition to "start" Put a DVOM on the main wire from the battery making sure you have 12V. GM wiring is so much simpler then the remote solenoid crap Ford uses. EDIT: Didn't see that it is an ex mil rig. 24V or 12V electrical system? |
| If this was a Ford, you would be just as lost. The ONLY difference is that the solenoid is on the starter and not the firewall. Ford used this type of starter on some big blocks and probably other engines also. IF you have 12.2+ volts at the battery and IF your starter is good, then you have a bad connection or wire. Depending on what librarian at the parts store checked your starter, it could still be drawing high amps and need to be replaced. If your battery is low on juice, you could have enough power for your accessories but not enough to start your truck. |
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Is this one of the old style GM starters with the solenoid/relay mounted to the top of the starter (as opposed to a relay mounted elsewhere)? If so, those solenoids are notorious for causing temp related problems although it's usually heat (from nearby headers on a gas engine) that makes them crap out. ETA: For discussion sake, a solenoid is what kicks the starter bendix out to engage the flywheel. A relay is what turns the high current on to the starter motor to make it spin. The GM version has the relay as part of the solenoid. |
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Ya gotta have 24 volts to the starter. 2 big batteries are required. Preferably 850CCA's or more. Even if the truck is ex-military. 24 volts are required to spin over the diesels fast enough to build heat in the combustion chamber. Check your batteries. Then make sure power is going to the injection pump. It won't start (but should crank) if the injection pump isn't powered. Another thing to check, make sure the return lines aren't kinked off. That will stop a diesel from starting/running also. The Diesel Garage.com might be a place to pose your questions about the CUCV. Good luck |
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Your engine isnt locked up by chance? Make sure you have power to the little wire when you turn the key to the start position. Also make sure you have 24 volts to the big wire. If both of those are there it should start unless the starter is either bad or the engine is locked up or the ground wire is burnt off. The ground wire goes from the firewall to the passenger side of the engine to the intake manifold bolt. Another thing is to make sure that an alternator is not locked up. when these lock up it will seem like the engine is locked up,. Hope this helps. there is only 1 small wire on the starter and it hooks up to the stud that has a "S" stamped by it. The other stud has an "R" stamped by it and should have nothing connected. Make sure your battery terminals are clean. A good way to test the batteries is to first disconnect them. Then take a multimter and put it on each battery from positive to negative and you should have a reading of 12volts or higher on each battery. Some times if you try to test them while they are hooked up you will get a false reading. |
