A 66 Mustang rebuild thread/saga. - back from dyno tune (Page 4 of 8)
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So the turnbuckle for the alternator is supposed to go on a bolt hole up on original timing cover/water pump. But that aint happening with current setup. So I fired up 3D printer and made a test mount. Will wind up changing out the spacer/bracket for the timing pointer to be a new aluminum piece that hangs a bolt hole below the oil pan gasket. Initial print has all bolt holes in line. Tonight I will bring the bottom hole 1.5 inches inboard to try to tuck the alternator a bit more and allow the turnbuckle to to crank tension into the belt. The planned location for the turnbuckle will be fairly close to a straight line reinforcement which should be a bonus to preventing any major forces tweaking the pulley out of alignment with the crank.  Also got spacing for head bolt accesories dialed in so I can make my coil and power steering bracket once all the parts arrive. |
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Originally Posted By uglygun: So the turnbuckle for the alternator is supposed to go on a bolt hole up on original timing cover/water pump. But that aint happening with current setup. So I fired up 3D printer and made a test mount. Will wind up changing out the spacer/bracket for the timing pointer to be a new aluminum piece that hangs a bolt hole below the oil pan gasket. Initial print has all bolt holes in line. Tonight I will bring the bottom hole 1.5 inches inboard to try to tuck the alternator a bit more and allow the turnbuckle to to crank tension into the belt. The planned location for the turnbuckle will be fairly close to a straight line reinforcement which should be a bonus to preventing any major forces tweaking the pulley out of alignment with the crank. https://i.imgur.com/GrMtwfb.jpg Also got spacing for head bolt accesories dialed in so I can make my coil and power steering bracket once all the parts arrive. Once again, nice work  I’ll just share what I’ve found to work well... underdrive pulleys. I zing the shit out of mine  and have never thrown the belt. |
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Originally Posted By ch3no2: Once again, nice work I’ll just share what I’ve found to work well... underdrive pulleys. I zing the shit out of mine and have never thrown the belt.Underdrive pulleys somehow stopped all the spark knock issues I was having with my old ‘95 Mustang GT. If nothing else, they were great for that alone. |
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Originally Posted By ch3no2: Once again, nice work I’ll just share what I’ve found to work well... underdrive pulleys. I zing the shit out of mine and have never thrown the belt.Went with a 2 groove V-belt March pulley. Think I went 5.75 inches instead of 5.5 inches just to spin the alternator a little faster for city driving. The power steering pump is gonna be tits. Comes with a 6in pulley and I could run to 6500rpm without worry of over spinning the poeer wteeri g pump. Love that the pump can be tuned to custom dial in power steering assist. My V2 timing indicator bracket managed to hit the oil pan but I kicked it inboard like 1.75 inches. About to bring it back a 1/4 inch and print another one. Once it is a nice fit I will finalize the curvature of the bracket and try to put a bit more meat in around the mounting holes on the pump. |
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KRC power steering pump came in last night. That is a damn fine setup for brackets/spacers/pump. Also got PA Performance Alternator. Looks like my pulleys are damn close to lining up oerfectly with crank pulley. Designed a piece that is part spacer for the KRC pump and coil mount. PLA 3D print is basically spot on so I can cut my aluminum this weekend or early next week. Also have my design for a part for the alternator turnbuckle and timing pointer mount finished. Two more pieces to cut out of aluminum. Spacers for the main alternator bracket are enroute. Will get out to get all my correct length bolts next week then stick the water pump on and bolt down alternator/pump. Hooker SuperComp Headers enroute.    |
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Just a heads up when you do the trans swap. I bought a swap over crossmember for the T-5 that has the parking brake bracket built in. When I release the parking brake the spring pulls the fulcrum arm in all the way and screws up the parking brake system. For some reason the V notch in the fulcrum will not stay in place on the crossmember. I think it has something to do with relocating it and the geometry in the new location with relationship to the spring location from the factory. I just need someone to operate the parking brake while I observe what the hell is going on under the car. I might have a fix this weekend for it. I'll keep you updated. |
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Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Just a heads up when you do the trans swap. I bought a swap over crossmember for the T-5 that has the parking brake bracket built in. When I release the parking brake the spring pulls the fulcrum arm in all the way and screws up the parking brake system. For some reason the V notch in the fulcrum will not stay in place on the crossmember. I think it has something to do with relocating it and the geometry in the new location with relationship to the spring location from the factory. I just need someone to operate the parking brake while I observe what the hell is going on under the car. I might have a fix this weekend for it. I'll keep you updated. I dont live in a mountainous area so if I have parking brake issues I will leave it in gear till I can unfuck it. Will be going through modern driveline for the swap. If any issues come up I should be able to 3D print mockups then machine my way to a solution with aluminum. |
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Originally Posted By uglygun: I dont live in a mountainous area so if I have parking brake issues I will leave it in gear till I can unfuck it. Will be going through modern driveline for the swap. If any issues come up I should be able to 3D print mockups then machine my way to a solution with aluminum. Some rear discs require the PB to adjust the pistons for proper brake operation. Line the SN95 brakes I put on mine. Mountains or not, you gotta use them to keep calipers adjusted all the time. |
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Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Some rear discs require the PB to adjust the pistons for proper brake operation. Line the SN95 brakes I put on mine. Mountains or not, you gotta use them to keep calipers adjusted all the time. Not gonna be too worried about the parking brake. I almost bought a rear that was sans-parking brake and just nasty boi race set up. I am familiar with the SN95 setup thanks to my Cobra. Once I get the rear end/suspension installed I will get to see how the parking brake situation lines up. I know Shaun has a video in his parking brake setup. Just have not watched in some time. 99% sure it is an inner drum/hat style disc. I am more interested in how the floating rear axle will eliminate pad setback for cornering/braking consistency. |
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Originally Posted By ch3no2: Planning on a few dyno cell pulls? Or just blacktop dyno? Will trouble shoot for awhile and go for reliability. Then maybe go for a dyno tune of I feel there is something more to get out of it. A whp number is what I would rather see than a flywheel hp number. Likely will do some test and tune 1/4 mile runs. See if I can ballpark the HP from E/T given weight. If I feel something is off I will go for a tune and retest. Friend of mine who drag races may go for that dominator looking Holley EFI kit. He was just breaking into the 8s for the 1/4 before his class went away and he switched to 1/8 mile. Others he knows use the Holley kit and are getting decent consistency even out of the box off self tune. /edit Stimmy rustled my Jimmy enough today to order my T5 swap kit. If I could get my lower control arm mounts welded in with my subframes I could get thd car home and be able to wait on the suspension while starting the engine install. I want to be able to drive the car over to get the subframes welded in proper and have the lower control arms welded correctly. |
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Busy day. Machined the timing cover mount and timing indicator mount. Also got coil mount/spacer done. Long tubes came in. Engine is done save for EFI and Belts. Looks like my rear axle is out for powder coat and then it should be boxed up and shipped out. Hopefully in a week I will have my subframes getting welded in along with the lower control arm mounts.  
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Originally Posted By ch3no2: Hooker Super Comps, right? Yup. And UPS managed to fuck up the box so bad it had not a single staple or tape up after blowing apart. Found the box on my doorstep standing up and could open the flaps of the box such that it was like a cabinet door. Somehow the bolts and gaskets found their way into the box and I found only one ding on a tube that isnt too bad. Fuck UPs strikes again. Once the trackings go out for my trans and my suspension I am calli g q hold on the package for pickup. Will be able to spot damage there at the facility and make a claim right there if I have to. Spent today machining some new badges that are gonna be part Terlingua bunny, part street or track logo, and on a carbon fiber background. Bunny will be red while rest of bqdge is polished aluminum with a sealer set against the carbon fiber. Should look outstanding on a black car that has been debadged. |
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Originally Posted By uglygun: Yup. And UPS managed to fuck up the box so bad it had not a single staple or tape up after blowing apart. Found the box on my doorstep standing up and could open the flaps of the box such that it was like a cabinet door. Somehow the bolts and gaskets found their way into the box and I found only one ding on a tube that isnt too bad. Fuck UPs strikes again. Once the trackings go out for my trans and my suspension I am calli g q hold on the package for pickup. Will be able to spot damage there at the facility and make a claim right there if I have to. Spent today machining some new badges that are gonna be part Terlingua bunny, part street or track logo, and on a carbon fiber background. Bunny will be red while rest of bqdge is polished aluminum with a sealer set against the carbon fiber. Should look outstanding on a black car that has been debadged. Originally Posted By uglygun: Originally Posted By ch3no2: Hooker Super Comps, right? Yup. And UPS managed to fuck up the box so bad it had not a single staple or tape up after blowing apart. Found the box on my doorstep standing up and could open the flaps of the box such that it was like a cabinet door. Somehow the bolts and gaskets found their way into the box and I found only one ding on a tube that isnt too bad. Fuck UPs strikes again. Once the trackings go out for my trans and my suspension I am calli g q hold on the package for pickup. Will be able to spot damage there at the facility and make a claim right there if I have to. Spent today machining some new badges that are gonna be part Terlingua bunny, part street or track logo, and on a carbon fiber background. Bunny will be red while rest of bqdge is polished aluminum with a sealer set against the carbon fiber. Should look outstanding on a black car that has been debadged. Have fun with those Super Comps. My neighbors heard all kinds of colorful language when I installed mine
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Originally Posted By ch3no2: Have fun with those Super Comps. My neighbors heard all kinds of colorful language when I installed mine Hoping things will be easier since engine is being replaced. Hoping to lay them into the engine bay and drop the engine down into position. Motivational items of the day. When the car is done with body and paint it will largely be debadged save for some Terlingua murder bunnies. Will cut the carbon fiber tomorrow. Likely wait to epoxy til I can get a vacuum chamber to make damn sure no bubbles form. 
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Trans swap kit delivered. Radiator/fan kit ordered but 4-6 week backorder. In another week I am likely ordering the EFI kit. Car should have subframes and lower control arm brackets welded in. Once car is back I am beginning tear down of trans/engine. Will work on engine bay clean up while waiting on suspension. Also work on clutch pedal and mods related to adding clutch and bigger radiator while engine is out. Once suspension goes in I should be able to finalize fuel take/fuel line install along with engine/trans going in. Got first set of badges poured. Goddamn epoxy off gassed some micro bubbles too far along into curing to be able to fix it. Have a 2nd pair that hopefully will come out perfectly clear. 
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Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Damn, those are sexy. Thanks. The picture doesnt quite show the areas that are fuckered up due to me having to pull out jellified epoxy that had a SHIT ton of bubbles in it. Had to reset the epoxy best I could woth a new pour. These will take awhile to unfuck and repolish the aluminum. The other set I poured yesterday will hopefully turn out near perfect. Thse dont look too bad but the micro bubbles piss me off. But in full sunlight they are blinding and the effect of the carbon fiber dancing in the sunlight is awesome. |
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Originally Posted By uglygun: @ch3no2 What motor mounts are you using and are thr super comps giving any headaches? About to order motor mounts. IIRC they were the ‘late’ 1965 style as opposed to all the 64 1/2 and early 1965 cars. I through bolted the drivers side, with a 1/2” bolt and nylock nut to allow for ~some~ vibration mitigation but more than strong enough under torque to keep it from pulling it apart. I might’ve had to grind down one corner of the driver side mount, I’ll have to have a look and get back to you. Dealing with the shock towers is the hardest part. I did have to put a small dent in primary tube #3 to clear the passenger side tower. You may or may not have to. Again, let me verify that and get back to you |
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Originally Posted By ch3no2: IIRC they were the ‘late’ 1965 style as opposed to all the 64 1/2 and early 1965 cars. I through bolted the drivers side, with a 1/2” bolt and nylock nut to allow for ~some~ vibration mitigation but more than strong enough under torque to keep it from pulling it apart. I might’ve had to grind down one corner of the driver side mount, I’ll have to have a look and get back to you. Dealing with the shock towers is the hardest part. I did have to put a small dent in primary tube #3 to clear the passenger side tower. You may or may not have to. Again, let me verify that and get back to you Given I am a 302 based block I am hoping I dont have to mod hedders much. Looking at the prothane mounts and probably grabbing them along with an overflow tank for the radiators. Beginning of next week I am probably ordering the EFI. |
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Originally Posted By uglygun: Given I am a 302 based block I am hoping I dont have to mod hedders much. 289-302 is all the same unless you're running some of the funky head designs like the GT40P. I have a set of stock '66 motor/frame mounts if anyone needs a set. They are about to get purged with my pending move. |
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Originally Posted By ScottsGT: 289-302 is all the same unless you're running some of the funky head designs like the GT40P. I have a set of stock '66 motor/frame mounts if anyone needs a set. They are about to get purged with my pending move. Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Originally Posted By uglygun: Given I am a 302 based block I am hoping I dont have to mod hedders much. 289-302 is all the same unless you're running some of the funky head designs like the GT40P. I have a set of stock '66 motor/frame mounts if anyone needs a set. They are about to get purged with my pending move. These^ are what you need. Unless of course you’re going aftermarket. @uglygun |
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Ordered Prothane motor mounts and an aluminum overflow catch can. Car got dropped off to have subframes put in today. Once I know cost on that I am ordering off my EFI kit. While I was there I showed them the emblems I made for when the car is finally done. Mentioned I prototype with my 3D printer and then CNC some parts. Their ears perked up and they took me to the garage and showed me a 50s era GMC emblem they have for a custom truck they are working on. Helps that I know two of the owner's nephews and one of the shop hands is a co-worker. Time to fire up Fusion 360 and see if I can marry my CAD/CAM emblem interests into a side hustle. Maybe a swap of my labor/work for their labor later on when it comes time for body work. |
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Started yanking everything off current engine. Was worried the exhaust manifold bolts might be a total bitch. Turns out they were barely tight enough to not have a major exhaust leak. The exhaust gasket surfaces didnt even bed or mate to the flange or cylinder head. Could almost reuse them.  Engine is basically ready to come out as soon as I drop the trans. I dont want to do it as a complete unit as I may be doing a lot of it by myself so I want it as compact as possible. EFI kit has shipped. Only waiting on radiator backorder and for suspension to ship after it is back from powder coat. Stabbed distributor in 331 along with the coil mount going on. Got last belt installed. Motor mounts need to be clearanced to clear around some ribbing on tbe dart block around the motor mount holes. The alternator bracket at the water pump mounting spot needed some careful spacer stacking to not have to modify the bracket which is meant for a mechanical mount. Due to the spacers it pushes out the bracket to where it almost becomes a issue for the belt. Wound up with about 1/8 of clearance but I am calling it good.   Finally got badges I am completely happy with. No bubbles in the epoxy. 
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Originally Posted By uglygun: Started yanking everything off current engine. Was worried the exhaust manifold bolts might be a total bitch. Turns out they were barely tight enough to not have a major exhaust leak. The exhaust gasket surfaces didnt even bed or mate to the flange or cylinder head. Could almost reuse them. https://i.imgur.com/W69a8c7.jpg Engine is basically ready to come out as soon as I drop the trans. I dont want to do it as a complete unit as I may be doing a lot of it by myself so I want it as compact as possible. EFI kit has shipped. Only waiting on radiator backorder and for suspension to ship after it is back from powder coat. Stabbed distributor in 331 along with the coil mount going on. Got last belt installed. Motor mounts need to be clearanced to clear around some ribbing on tbe dart block around the motor mount holes. The alternator bracket at the water pump mounting spot needed some careful spacer stacking to not have to modify the bracket which is meant for a mechanical mount. Due to the spacers it pushes out the bracket to where it almost becomes a issue for the belt. Wound up with about 1/8 of clearance but I am calling it good. https://i.imgur.com/dSlYOLu.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Mq0IJtH.jpg Finally got badges I am completely happy with. No bubbles in the epoxy. https://i.imgur.com/7ESKHbD.jpg 
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Got manifolds disconnected tonight. One side unbolted the other side had to have the pipe cut. Dropped the drive shaft out. Got all the bolts off the bell housing and the flexplate. Dont feel like dropping the trans tonight. Gonna come back to the nasty job of the cross member tomorrow night(it is caked in years of road grime and oil leaks) and see if I can drop the trans. 3 of the bolts holding the bell housing in place where barely more than finger tight. 2 bolts were doing most of the work. Then the engine should be ready to come out. Once I can get the car back on the ground I can climb into the engine bay to start cleani g and cut the radiator support for clearance needed for the new radiator. Also have to modify the firewall for where my hydraulic clutch bits for the master are gonna bolt in. I am sure I am gonna enjoy laying on my back to add a fuckin 3rd pedal into the pedal support area. Figure I have a couple nights of clean up to get the engine bay looking semi decent. |
   Welp. That is done. Time to get to cleaning up engine bay. Drill the master cylinder mount. Cut the radiator support. Have to mod the engine mounts to fit Dart block. Confirm the bell housing indexed/true to pilot bearing/crank. Then the bright shiny precious in the back corner of the garage can go in. EFI kit came in today. Waiting on radiator. |
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Originally Posted By ch3no2: What are you using for a brake master cylinder? SN95 cobra master. There are like 3 different ones running the years between fox body to SN95 from I think 15/16 bore to 1 1/8 bore. They also have a proportioning valve built in so it is important to know which outlet is the front brakes and which is rear. It is switched around. My buddy seemed to think "all madter cylinders are the same, front is front and rear is rear." Nope. |
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Originally Posted By uglygun: SN95 cobra master. There are like 3 different ones running the years between fox body to SN95 from I think 15/16 bore to 1 1/8 bore. They also have a proportioning valve built in so it is important to know which outlet is the front brakes and which is rear. It is switched around. My buddy seemed to think "all madter cylinders are the same, front is front and rear is rear." Nope. Originally Posted By uglygun: Originally Posted By ch3no2: What are you using for a brake master cylinder? SN95 cobra master. There are like 3 different ones running the years between fox body to SN95 from I think 15/16 bore to 1 1/8 bore. They also have a proportioning valve built in so it is important to know which outlet is the front brakes and which is rear. It is switched around. My buddy seemed to think "all madter cylinders are the same, front is front and rear is rear." Nope. Good to know, thanks. I use a manual (non-boosted) aluminum m/c out of an ‘83 Ranger. Direct bolt-in. An old-timer Super Stock racer (RIP Alex) turned me onto that. 15/16” bore, no external proportioning valve required, perfect for OE Kelsey-Hays four-piston fronts and rear drums. About half the weight of a cast iron m/c. Your SN95 deal is probably lighter yet. My car originally had the old cast iron single-stage fishbowl m/c. That was one of the first things to go. I believe DOT required two-stage masters beginning in 1967. Some ‘65 and ‘66 guys run a ‘67 master. My ‘83 Ranger deal makes far more line pressure, and is much lighter. With aggressive pads (which I run), my car will put you through the windshield if you’re not buckled in real tight |
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Originally Posted By uglygun: SN95 cobra master. There are like 3 different ones running the years between fox body to SN95 from I think 15/16 bore to 1 1/8 bore. They also have a proportioning valve built in so it is important to know which outlet is the front brakes and which is rear. It is switched around. My buddy seemed to think "all madter cylinders are the same, front is front and rear is rear." Nope. One of these is also SAE threads while one is Metric threads too. When I did my '95 GT to Cobra brake conversion, I had to use a '93 Cobra MC because it matched the threads on the '95's brake lines that I think were SAE while the Cobra in '94-'95 I think was metric?? Ford shit the bed on the '94-'95 with so many different mix ups of SAE and Metric. |
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Originally Posted By Dirtynails: The badges are impressive. Yup, but Everytime I look at them, all I see is the Mad River Canoe Co' s logo. Attached File Once had someone ask me, " Why you got a dope smoking bunny on your kayak?"
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Originally Posted By ch3no2: Good to know, thanks. I use a manual (non-boosted) aluminum m/c out of an ‘83 Ranger. Direct bolt-in. An old-timer Super Stock racer (RIP Alex) turned me onto that. 15/16” bore, no external proportioning valve required, perfect for OE Kelsey-Hays four-piston fronts and rear drums. About half the weight of a cast iron m/c. Your SN95 deal is probably lighter yet. My car originally had the old cast iron single-stage fishbowl m/c. That was one of the first things to go. I believe DOT required two-stage masters beginning in 1967. Some ‘65 and ‘66 guys run a ‘67 master. My ‘83 Ranger deal makes far more line pressure, and is much lighter. With aggressive pads (which I run), my car will put you through the windshield if you’re not buckled in real tight That damned fruit jar MC in my old '65 Fairlane about killed me. I jerry rigged the exhaust with coat hangers and it broke and fell on the rear brake line and burned through it. Came up to a busy intersection where I had to take a hard right and no brakes. Threw that bitch in park and went spinning though the turn.  I had to get a ride home to change my underwear.  Edit: I think I was about 19 at the time. |
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Originally Posted By ScottsGT: That damned fruit jar MC in my old '65 Fairlane about killed me. I jerry rigged the exhaust with coat hangers and it broke and fell on the rear brake line and burned through it. Came up to a busy intersection where I had to take a hard right and no brakes. Threw that bitch in park and went spinning though the turn. I had to get a ride home to change my underwear. Edit: I think I was about 19 at the time. Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Originally Posted By ch3no2: Good to know, thanks. I use a manual (non-boosted) aluminum m/c out of an ‘83 Ranger. Direct bolt-in. An old-timer Super Stock racer (RIP Alex) turned me onto that. 15/16” bore, no external proportioning valve required, perfect for OE Kelsey-Hays four-piston fronts and rear drums. About half the weight of a cast iron m/c. Your SN95 deal is probably lighter yet. My car originally had the old cast iron single-stage fishbowl m/c. That was one of the first things to go. I believe DOT required two-stage masters beginning in 1967. Some ‘65 and ‘66 guys run a ‘67 master. My ‘83 Ranger deal makes far more line pressure, and is much lighter. With aggressive pads (which I run), my car will put you through the windshield if you’re not buckled in real tight That damned fruit jar MC in my old '65 Fairlane about killed me. I jerry rigged the exhaust with coat hangers and it broke and fell on the rear brake line and burned through it. Came up to a busy intersection where I had to take a hard right and no brakes. Threw that bitch in park and went spinning though the turn. I had to get a ride home to change my underwear. Edit: I think I was about 19 at the time. I think doing stupid shit in our teens was a requirement
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Originally Posted By ch3no2: I think doing stupid shit in our teens was a requirement Originally Posted By ch3no2: Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Originally Posted By ch3no2: Good to know, thanks. I use a manual (non-boosted) aluminum m/c out of an ‘83 Ranger. Direct bolt-in. An old-timer Super Stock racer (RIP Alex) turned me onto that. 15/16” bore, no external proportioning valve required, perfect for OE Kelsey-Hays four-piston fronts and rear drums. About half the weight of a cast iron m/c. Your SN95 deal is probably lighter yet. My car originally had the old cast iron single-stage fishbowl m/c. That was one of the first things to go. I believe DOT required two-stage masters beginning in 1967. Some ‘65 and ‘66 guys run a ‘67 master. My ‘83 Ranger deal makes far more line pressure, and is much lighter. With aggressive pads (which I run), my car will put you through the windshield if you’re not buckled in real tight That damned fruit jar MC in my old '65 Fairlane about killed me. I jerry rigged the exhaust with coat hangers and it broke and fell on the rear brake line and burned through it. Came up to a busy intersection where I had to take a hard right and no brakes. Threw that bitch in park and went spinning though the turn. I had to get a ride home to change my underwear. Edit: I think I was about 19 at the time. I think doing stupid shit in our teens was a requirement This plus one! I drove around with no rear brakes on my '84 Mercury Marquis for about three months in Florida when I was a teenager. After I almost hydroplaned into traffic...twice...I asked my Dad to help me fix it. |
"You see? It's like I've always said; You can get more with a kind word and a two-by-four than you can with just a kind word." - Marcus Cole
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Originally Posted By Kitulu: This plus one! I drove around with no rear brakes on my '84 Mercury Marquis for about three months in Florida when I was a teenager. After I almost hydroplaned into traffic...twice...I asked my Dad to help me fix it. Originally Posted By Kitulu: Originally Posted By ch3no2: Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Originally Posted By ch3no2: Good to know, thanks. I use a manual (non-boosted) aluminum m/c out of an ‘83 Ranger. Direct bolt-in. An old-timer Super Stock racer (RIP Alex) turned me onto that. 15/16” bore, no external proportioning valve required, perfect for OE Kelsey-Hays four-piston fronts and rear drums. About half the weight of a cast iron m/c. Your SN95 deal is probably lighter yet. My car originally had the old cast iron single-stage fishbowl m/c. That was one of the first things to go. I believe DOT required two-stage masters beginning in 1967. Some ‘65 and ‘66 guys run a ‘67 master. My ‘83 Ranger deal makes far more line pressure, and is much lighter. With aggressive pads (which I run), my car will put you through the windshield if you’re not buckled in real tight That damned fruit jar MC in my old '65 Fairlane about killed me. I jerry rigged the exhaust with coat hangers and it broke and fell on the rear brake line and burned through it. Came up to a busy intersection where I had to take a hard right and no brakes. Threw that bitch in park and went spinning though the turn. I had to get a ride home to change my underwear. Edit: I think I was about 19 at the time. I think doing stupid shit in our teens was a requirement This plus one! I drove around with no rear brakes on my '84 Mercury Marquis for about three months in Florida when I was a teenager. After I almost hydroplaned into traffic...twice...I asked my Dad to help me fix it. In my ‘maturity’ (ahem) I’ve realized that that my Guardian Angels were able to fly faster than I could. Because I sure did my damndest to outrun them I should’ve been dead several times over. And yet, I’m still here 
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Originally Posted By ScottsGT: That damned fruit jar MC in my old '65 Fairlane about killed me. I jerry rigged the exhaust with coat hangers and it broke and fell on the rear brake line and burned through it. Came up to a busy intersection where I had to take a hard right and no brakes. Threw that bitch in park and went spinning though the turn. I had to get a ride home to change my underwear. Edit: I think I was about 19 at the time.  Jerry Clower - Burning Building |
Double Distinguished
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Yanked my bent bumper off today and yanked the battery tray. Sanded out more of the passenger side apron and painted it along with frame rail. Cut down the motor mounts so they will bolt up to the block. Clearance is super tight and after I adjust one of the motor mounts I may have to tend the bottom most tubes for a bit of clearance. Gonna work on other apron and frame rail tomorrow. Need to clean up the engine bay and get her painted. Getting closer to being able to drill firewall and cut core support for radiator. Next up will be indexing the bell housing to the crank. |
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Been cleaning up engine bay and repainting. Got news my radiator may ship this week so thqt is good. Drilled firewall today for clutch master cylinder qnd dropped pedal support to rebuild for roller bearings qnd to install the clutch. Gonna get a new pedal this Monday from a mustang yard down near Magic Mountain. So the instructions want you to trace this firewall bracket. Then cut it out of cardboard and tape it to the firewall. Yeah fuck that. I have Fusion 360 and a 3D printer. 15 minutes in Fusion 360 and I have my template drawn up after taking measurements of the part I am supposed to trace. Have the holes on center for the 5/16 and 1 3\8 holes then stepped them down to a 1/8 inch pilot hole for precisely drilling pilot hole. 50 minutes later and the template is printed up. Put tape on firewall. Trace spot where bracket is supposed to go. Super glued my drill template to the firewall. Drilled 3 of the most perfectly centered pilot holes you can probably get. Nooope  Yep.  Bolted in. Fiddle fucking left to do with running lines once engine qnd trans are in with the long tubes.  Test fiting pedal bits. I have an oddball pedal that doesnt have a rubber bumper on it, some kinda weird shit. When I pick up my new pedal it should hopefully make the pedal not so high. Have an adjustable pushrod now as well to tweak it properly. Old pedal opuld have made heel and toe driving a pain in the ass. 
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Details of the Unisteer install experience. Think I should have been more sarcastic? Hopefully it will help anyone buying a Unisteer rack. Still cannot believe the tardlets deleted the windowed holes of thd crossmember. Another video with a bit of a walk around coming later. |
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Test fit engine and headers tonight. Had to bonk a dent into the same header tube that was rubbing on a motor mount. This time was so I could clear the high pressure steering pump line. Guessing I will have to dent it a bunch more as well as get creative with the fitting for the hose, hopefully some kind of 45deg rotating it down and away to keep it a bit cooler. TONS of room in front of electric water pump for when radiator and electric fans go in. Gonna try to route as much wiring to the passenger side of the car as possible and run my fan relays, water pump relays all from that area. Put my fuel tank together today and cussed at the fucking fuel sock situation that absolutely will not go into the hole properly while on the pump. Ended up throwing the sock in the tank then doing some kind of claw game bullshit til I felt the pump line up on it so I could press the pump down on it. Once all centered up I dropped the gasket and bolted that fucker down. Shpuld be just enough clearance for the pump to be about 1/8-1/4 off bottom of the tank. Fuel sock has a kind of support built up to keep it from collapsing and that rigid part likely helped push it onto the pump as I bolted it down while gauranteeing spacing. Modern driveline sent me the wrong bolts for clutch. Place in town wanted 46 bucks for a pack of 6 ARP 7/16x20 pitch 1 inch bolts. Today the offset dowel pins came in and I am fairly sure I am set up with about .003-.005 inch of total runout so once clutch is on there the bell housing should be able to go on for good. Then I can pull out the transmission and start setting up my throw out bearing clearances. Got the pedals installed. Slight drag on the brake pedal due to bushings being a bit tight. Probably will pull it then scrub inner bit of break pedal where bushing sits. That will loosen it up on bolt so the action on clutch pedal in no way effects brake pedal during those parts breaking in. So another order from Summit and I now have a new bumper coming along with my clutch flywheel bolts. Sunday it was offset dowel pins and a pair of mirrors for the car since I only had a driver side mirror and that was cracked.    
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