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9/8/2016 12:03:48 PM EDT
I'd like to be able to drill into my Jeeps front bumper (Olympic), it's much thicker than the stock bumper.

I need to drill a hole for my steering box armor, and I'd like to add mounts for some D rings up front.

Currently I have an 18v Rechargeable and an earlier variant of this DeWalt electric drill

What should I be looking for in a hand drill for drilling into thicker steel?  Do I need a hammer drill, or just a more powerful version of the DeWalt?

Thanks.
9/8/2016 12:06:14 PM EDT
[#1]
I would think something with a cord at least. Perhaps take the bumper to a machinist before installing it, the cost would likely be less than the cost of a drill that could cut through that.
9/8/2016 12:14:46 PM EDT
[#2]
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Quoted:
I would think something with a cord at least.
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Quoted:
I would think something with a cord at least.

That's what I was thinking


Perhaps take the bumper to a machinist before installing it, the cost would likely be less than the cost of a drill that could cut through that.



Bumper has been on for the last 6 months+

I could pull it off, once I mark the spot that needs to be drilled for the steering box armor.  It's a 5 minute job, only 4 bolts hold it in place.

I do have a half horsepower 1/2" drill press in my shop.
9/8/2016 12:20:16 PM EDT
[#3]
Hilti DD350
9/8/2016 12:52:06 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote History
Quoted:

That's what I was thinking




Bumper has been on for the last 6 months+

I could pull it off, once I mark the spot that needs to be drilled for the steering box armor.  It's a 5 minute job, only 4 bolts hold it in place.

I do have a half horsepower 1/2" drill press in my shop.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I would think something with a cord at least.

That's what I was thinking


Perhaps take the bumper to a machinist before installing it, the cost would likely be less than the cost of a drill that could cut through that.



Bumper has been on for the last 6 months+

I could pull it off, once I mark the spot that needs to be drilled for the steering box armor.  It's a 5 minute job, only 4 bolts hold it in place.

I do have a half horsepower 1/2" drill press in my shop.

I believe you have your answer!

(Unless you are like me and simply need any excuse to buy a new tool)
9/8/2016 12:53:22 PM EDT
[#5]
Won't your 18 volt drill handle the size?  I've drilled 3/4" through 3/4" steel on the wreckers at work with my old 18 volt milwaukee.  Of course I drilled pilot holes and did it in a few size increments, but it got the job done.
9/8/2016 1:07:37 PM EDT
[#6]
For things like, it's hard to beat an old Milwaukee 1/2" corded drill.
9/8/2016 1:09:01 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote History
Quoted:
Won't your 18 volt drill handle the size?  I've drilled 3/4" through 3/4" steel on the wreckers at work with my old 18 volt milwaukee.  Of course I drilled pilot holes and did it in a few size increments, but it got the job done.
View Quote


^^^What he said.  Drill in steps and you won't have a problem.
9/8/2016 1:23:05 PM EDT
[#8]
I drilled 6 1/2" holes through my F350 frame to mount my hitch, with an 18V cordless. No pilot holes, just clamped the hitch in place and used my redneck upside down drill press.

9/8/2016 2:04:28 PM EDT
[#9]
Some things just shouldn't be overthunk...


9/8/2016 3:01:40 PM EDT
[#10]
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Quoted:

(Unless you are like me and simply need any excuse to buy a new tool)
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Guilty.

But I'm also thinking about mods down the road.  I've got some rockers I also want to install, I don't think I can fit my LJ on the drill press.
9/8/2016 3:09:10 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote History
Quoted:
Won't your 18 volt drill handle the size?  I've drilled 3/4" through 3/4" steel on the wreckers at work with my old 18 volt milwaukee.  Of course I drilled pilot holes and did it in a few size increments, but it got the job done.
View Quote


Size of the bit, no problem.  Thickness & harness of the steel?  I'm thinking that might be an issue.  The bumper isn't wood nor thin sheet metal.
9/8/2016 3:09:59 PM EDT
[#12]
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Quoted:
I drilled 6 1/2" holes through my F350 frame to mount my hitch, with an 18V cordless. No pilot holes, just clamped the hitch in place and used my redneck upside down drill press.

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee245/NH2112/AC28EF77-8F5B-4F02-BAE5-95A5EA8F970D_zps8jyafxkn.jpg
View Quote


Impressive!
9/8/2016 3:39:02 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote History
Quoted:
For things like, it's hard to beat an old Milwaukee 1/2" corded drill.
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This.


Ideally, a low speed/high torque model.
9/8/2016 8:52:36 PM EDT
[#14]
If the holes are 3/4" use a high speed steel hole saw, for 1/2" just get a good split point drill bit. I wouldn't use a hammer drill, you'll break the bit.
9/8/2016 9:32:04 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote History
Quoted:
I drilled 6 1/2" holes through my F350 frame to mount my hitch, with an 18V cordless. No pilot holes, just clamped the hitch in place and used my redneck upside down drill press.

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee245/NH2112/AC28EF77-8F5B-4F02-BAE5-95A5EA8F970D_zps8jyafxkn.jpg
View Quote


9/9/2016 3:41:31 AM EDT
[#16]
Milwaukee hole shooter corded drill and a set of Milwaukee hole saws. I can and have drilled 1/4 inch plate with those in maybe 2 or 3 minutes. Just use lots of oil and it will go right through.
9/9/2016 11:27:25 AM EDT
[#17]
Thanks guys for all the feedback and suggestions!  I'm going to start pricing out the Milwaukee (just 'cause ).  But I'll try with my current gear, on the hole for the steering box armor to see how it goes.
9/9/2016 11:48:25 AM EDT
[#18]
The most important thing to remember is low speed & high pressure for drilling into steel. Around 300rpm is good, and when I was drilling the frame I was just short of starting to lift the truck. It only took about 30-40 seconds per hole.
9/10/2016 1:55:30 AM EDT
[#19]
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Quoted:
The most important thing to remember is low speed & high pressure for drilling into steel. Around 300rpm is good, and when I was drilling the frame I was just short of starting to lift the truck. It only took about 30-40 seconds per hole.
View Quote


Quote for truth.

I have an 18v Milwaukee brushed model, about 1year old. The chuck sucks big time. My 10 year old Milwaukee keyless chuck works better. Other than that it is a decent tool. Ryobi lithium chuck sucked too. Neither will hold a bit without loosening up. Used newer Milwaukee to drill bunches of holes in 76 F250 truck frame, 3/8", worked fine other than chuck...
9/10/2016 2:32:05 AM EDT
[#20]

Quote History
Quoted:


The most important thing to remember is low speed & high pressure for drilling into steel. Around 300rpm is good, and when I was drilling the frame I was just short of starting to lift the truck. It only took about 30-40 seconds per hole.
View Quote
A sharp bit is very important and coolant.  Don't drill a series of holes.  A center drill to get you started the go to what size you need.  Walking up to the size will cause problems.  Too much pressure can break your bit.  Firm steady pressure is what you're after.

 
9/10/2016 8:55:51 AM EDT
[#21]
I've got two Milwaukee 1/2 corded drills ( one is a hammer drill), I also have 2 Makita cordless drills. The corded drills sit covered in dust because they rarely get used.....even drilling with big bits.
9/10/2016 9:13:35 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote History
Quoted:


Size of the bit, no problem.  Thickness & harness of the steel?  I'm thinking that might be an issue.  The bumper isn't wood nor thin sheet metal.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Won't your 18 volt drill handle the size?  I've drilled 3/4" through 3/4" steel on the wreckers at work with my old 18 volt milwaukee.  Of course I drilled pilot holes and did it in a few size increments, but it got the job done.


Size of the bit, no problem.  Thickness & harness of the steel?  I'm thinking that might be an issue.  The bumper isn't wood nor thin sheet metal.



Say what?

It's a jeep bumper, probably 5/16  max.  And it sure as shit isn't built with anything but mild steel.
9/10/2016 9:16:19 AM EDT
[#23]
Hammer drills are for stone,brick ,concrete and masonary with carbide tipped drill bits . Neither is what you want for metal .

Most hammer drills have a switch that turns the function from hammer function to just drilling , if the hammer drill you have is the biggest drill motor you have this is the way to go.

Next issue is the regular drill bits being sold out of Home centers are made to price compete for all the weekend warriors and are pretty lame in any decent steel .

At Home Depot for instance there are Ryobi , dewalt and two or three grades of Milwaukee bits and the only resonably decent ones are the most expensive "cobalt" line from Milwaukee .


Drill a smaller 1/8 or 1/4 pilot hole and then finish with your bolt size or slightly larger . If your bolt size is 1/2 inch or larger you will likely want a intermediate size bit also. Use oil and medium speed with the larger bits . If you are seeing metal turning blue or smoke from the bit you need more oil or slower speeds.

Don't forget the safety glasses! Drilling steel is way dangerous to the eyeballs.

A decent 18volt will handle the job , larger batteries would be a better choice but regular ones will do with some patience
9/10/2016 9:37:00 AM EDT
[#24]
Small pilot hole lots of oil and go slow. Any newer cordless 18v should be able to handle a few large holes through 3/8 steel.
9/12/2016 3:48:38 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote History
Quoted:

Say what?

It's a jeep bumper, probably 5/16  max.  And it sure as shit isn't built with anything but mild steel.
View Quote

It's much more beefy than the stock unit,
9/12/2016 8:48:15 PM EDT
[#26]
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Quoted:



Say what?

It's a jeep bumper, probably 5/16  max.  And it sure as shit isn't built with anything but mild steel.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Won't your 18 volt drill handle the size?  I've drilled 3/4" through 3/4" steel on the wreckers at work with my old 18 volt milwaukee.  Of course I drilled pilot holes and did it in a few size increments, but it got the job done.


Size of the bit, no problem.  Thickness & harness of the steel?  I'm thinking that might be an issue.  The bumper isn't wood nor thin sheet metal.



Say what?

It's a jeep bumper, probably 5/16  max.  And it sure as shit isn't built with anything but mild steel.


The bumper the OP linked to lists as being 7 gauge steel.....  7 gauge = 3/16" = not too hard to drill with any 1/2" chucked drill motor on the market.
9/13/2016 5:45:36 AM EDT
[#27]
3/16 is nothing.  It's peanuts!  You are severely overthinking this OP.  I've drilled 1/4" steel with my little 12v Milwaukee countless times.  

And hammer drills are for masonry...not for steel.