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Originally Posted By 2T2_Crash:
I wasnt meaning to be a smartass either, I just posted from my phone and dont have my favorites otherwise I'd have a link for the injector swap to post for you.  Originally Posted By 2T2_Crash:
Originally Posted By DarkCharisma:
Originally Posted By 2T2_Crash:
Google 4.0 injector swap, a lot of folks are using new four port fuel injectors, I still need to do mine. There is quite a bit of info on it. I put in some due diligence, and think I have an idea of what needs to be done. Shame on me  ... it looks to be an easy fix.I wasnt meaning to be a smartass either, I just posted from my phone and dont have my favorites otherwise I'd have a link for the injector swap to post for you. No problem! I ended up going with some remanufactured Bosch updated 4-port EV6 injectors. I went ahead and ordered all six, I should have them next week. |
My bill is flatter than yours.
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Originally Posted By DarkCharisma:
No problem! I ended up going with some remanufactured Bosch updated 4-port EV6 injectors. I went ahead and ordered all six, I should have them next week. Originally Posted By DarkCharisma:
Originally Posted By 2T2_Crash:
Originally Posted By DarkCharisma:
Originally Posted By 2T2_Crash:
Google 4.0 injector swap, a lot of folks are using new four port fuel injectors, I still need to do mine. There is quite a bit of info on it. I put in some due diligence, and think I have an idea of what needs to be done. Shame on me ... it looks to be an easy fix.I wasnt meaning to be a smartass either, I just posted from my phone and dont have my favorites otherwise I'd have a link for the injector swap to post for you. No problem! I ended up going with some remanufactured Bosch updated 4-port EV6 injectors. I went ahead and ordered all six, I should have them next week. Let me know how that goes! I really need to update mine. |
R.I.P. Curtis Eccleston, Feb 6 2011
Proud Member Of Team Ranstad
Proud Member Of Team Ranstad
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Originally Posted By 2T2_Crash:
Let me know how that goes! I really need to update mine. Originally Posted By 2T2_Crash:
Originally Posted By DarkCharisma:
Originally Posted By 2T2_Crash:
Originally Posted By DarkCharisma:
Originally Posted By 2T2_Crash:
Google 4.0 injector swap, a lot of folks are using new four port fuel injectors, I still need to do mine. There is quite a bit of info on it. I put in some due diligence, and think I have an idea of what needs to be done. Shame on me ... it looks to be an easy fix.I wasnt meaning to be a smartass either, I just posted from my phone and dont have my favorites otherwise I'd have a link for the injector swap to post for you. No problem! I ended up going with some remanufactured Bosch updated 4-port EV6 injectors. I went ahead and ordered all six, I should have them next week. Let me know how that goes! I really need to update mine. Sure thing! If you're looking, I ordered these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161521159754 They cross-reference with the Neon injector part number, should be the right ones ... |
My bill is flatter than yours.
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IIRC around 1990 the 4.0l "H.O." came out. The Wrangler was rated about 25hp less than the Cherokee. I figured it was for insurance and dumb-ass protection.
For a while there was a centrifugal supercharger out there for the 4.0 I always thought it would be killer to stuff a nasty small block V8 into one. 
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When you have your head in the sand, your ass is wide open.
Sheep Dog cares not the opinion of the Sheep..
Sheep Dog cares not the opinion of the Sheep..
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Originally Posted By fp1201:
IIRC around 1990 the 4.0l "H.O." came out. The Wrangler was rated about 25hp less than the Cherokee. I figured it was for insurance and dumb-ass protection. For a while there was a centrifugal supercharger out there for the 4.0 I always thought it would be killer to stuff a nasty small block V8 into one. The stroker motors seem to be pretty badass. I would go that route, before a V8. |
"Everything popular is wrong."
-Oscar Wilde
-Oscar Wilde
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I tried to tackle a couple more projects yesterday, and got stalled on both. Oh well.
First attempt was the driveshaft; goals were to clean up the surface rust and road grime, put a coat of paint on it, and get the new universal joint pressed in. 
I "borrowed" a can of oven cleaner from the wife's bucket of cleaning supplies and threw on my OSHA approved safety gear: 
A good coat netted ... 
...absolutely no results. So I hit it with a scuffing wheel on my drill and put some paint down on it instead: 
Since that would need many coats, I turned my attention to the fuel injectors, which came in the mail; here's a new one, with the updated 4-port nozzle for better atomization/spray: 
So I dove in, taped and numbered things, and popped off the fuel rail: 
The old injectors are nasty, as are the injector ports. I took great care to clean these out, using a combination of brake cleaner soaked cotton swabs, positive vacuum from my shop vac, and an inward-to-outward scraping motion with a screwdriver: 
Kind of a bummer of a day; it started to rain, and I apparently had the wrong o-rings on the new injectors, so I need to get some o-rings to finish that up tonight. So I tried starting two projects, and neither got finished. 
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My bill is flatter than yours.
601 601 601 601 601 601 601 601 601 601 601 601
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Posts:
64827
EE: 100% (42)
WA, USA
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I put the new injectors in tonight, sorry no pics; it was cold and dark and I wish I hadn't started the project, but I had already greased up the injector o-rings and I wasn't about to let good lube go to waste.
The injectors don't make use of the factory retainer clips, which mildly concerned me at first, but once I got the rail pressed in and bolted down, it was obvious they weren't going anywhere. Still, I might find a way to make an exterior gasket around the injection port; while there's an o-ring down there on the injector itself, it looks very susceptible to crud, bad design imho and will eventually lead to injector failure again and/or fuel contamination. I had the hot wife prime the fuel rail at least a dozen times while I checked closely for leaks; no spray, mist, bubbles, gurgles, dribbles or otherwise, so I put the vacuum nightmare back together and tried to start it up. It didn't want to go on the first turn, but second turn it roared to life pretty solidly. I watched it for a good 10min for leaks, and didn't see anything, although I did crumble a vacuum line fitting in the process, so it idles kinda crappy unless I pinch the crack on the fitting closed. 
All in all it was a pretty easy job, I'll replace the vacuum fitting in the AM and see how it goes. If it comes together, I might be able to drive it this weekend. 
Originally Posted By KA3B:
Cool truck! I have a friend who had one for about 16 years. Bought it in California when he was in the Military. Took it back to Wisconsin after 11 years in California and it was rotted out in 3. Thanks! It seems to be a real attention getter, I've had two people in two days ask if I wanted to sell it, and comment on how clean it was. |
My bill is flatter than yours.
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Tagging this.
If I wasn't a hardcore toyota nut, I would be building an MJ as an offroad rig. I love these things. Also, cool having grandpa's truck. We have my late grandfather in law's little toyota pickup. It will never be for sale. |
"There is a time for peace and talk and reason; and then, at long last, and only with sadness of heart and mournful admission that all your wisdom and words have failed, you must go kill you some motherfuckers and set some of their shit on fire"
| Got the new u-joint pressed in, replaced a couple vacuum lines and took it for a spin; the truck runs great, but the brakes are still pretty weak; not as bad as before, but I am pretty sure I've either got a failed master or booster, or both. So now I'm on the hunt for some WJ calipers and master, along with an E350 booster. |
My bill is flatter than yours.
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Originally Posted By Commando_Guy:
Make sure you get the mid '02 and later calipers (Akebono). The earlier Teves calipers can cause rotor warpage due to uneven clampage. Nick Definitely follow the above advice! |
WHAT? SELL A GUN?
I said I didnt NEED it...not that I didnt WANT it...
I said I didnt NEED it...not that I didnt WANT it...
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Took a couple days off to tinker on stuff, the Cadillac has been taking a lot of my time but I got some Jeep things done.
Went and picked up a WJ master and booster, that is kind of a pain in the ass... Lots of ZJs and WJs in the yard, not many XJ's and no MJ's (not surprising), so I had to grind down the brake light flat on the new op rod; not a big deal, and it made me buy a $20 5/8" drill bit 
I am going to have to do some clearance "adjustments" on the firewall to fit it, and probably have to fab up a 1/4" spacer; but it doesn't look too bad so far. Also dug into the vacuum leaks and crumbling hoses some more. Anyone delete the PCV valve and just install a breather? It's naaaaaasty in my intake elbow. Also, anyone ever successfully relocate the charcoal canister, or use an aftermarket one? |
My bill is flatter than yours.
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Got quotes from the yard, it'll cost $390 before cores for a transfer case, front axle, and transmission. Still unsure if I am going to go with an AX-whatever trans, or if I want to do an NV3500, or a T-45 or T-5.... I think the Tremecs are the smoothest of the bunch, and with how little this guy weighs I should be able to make those work. But I guess it depends on availability.
Also spied some nice WJ/ZJ leather seats that I am going to snag the next time I am there. Maybe I'll luck out and find a console that's not been fuckered, too. |
My bill is flatter than yours.
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Originally Posted By DarkCharisma:
Got quotes from the yard, it'll cost $390 before cores for a transfer case, front axle, and transmission. Still unsure if I am going to go with an AX-whatever trans, or if I want to do an NV3500, or a T-45 or T-5.... I think the Tremecs are the smoothest of the bunch, and with how little this guy weighs I should be able to make those work. But I guess it depends on availability. Also spied some nice WJ/ZJ leather seats that I am going to snag the next time I am there. Maybe I'll luck out and find a console that's not been fuckered, too. I'm still trying to hunt down a damn center console and seats for my XJ. |
R.I.P. Curtis Eccleston, Feb 6 2011
Proud Member Of Team Ranstad
Proud Member Of Team Ranstad
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Did a little more on the Heep today. Mocked up where the new booster goes and marked where I need to make cuts; put my EGR blocker plate on, and removed the recirculation mess; removed charcoal canister feed that goes to the intake elbow, I am going to either put a breather on it or reroute it another way that's way less onerous; measured for a new CCV, going to do a breather instead so it stops dumping oil in my air filter; removed the old prop cable lines, to make way for new ones.
Ever closer... |
My bill is flatter than yours.
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Got the new booster in, had to make a cut and fold the seam back a bit on the firewall to make it fit, but not a big deal overall. Wrestling with figuring out how to make lines now ... Having ZERO luck sourcing parts for it locally. Looks like I might go back to the yard and grab some WJ lines, then cut and re-flare the prop side, since they're invert/double flare instead of bubble. Apparently finding some 12mm-1x3/16 is impossible, I went to Carquest, O'Reiley's, Napa and Autozone.
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My bill is flatter than yours.
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The truck's mostly been sitting as I change and settle into the new job, but I did pick up a donor with all the 4x4 stuff I need, a 2001 Cherokee. The interior is thrashed, the motor is "blown" according to the previous owner, and unfortunately I won't be able to save the harness to do an obd2 conversion--it's been cut and patched many, many times with speaker wire--but the transfer case, transmission, axles, and shafts are good; it also has a center console in one piece (albeit dirty), I was able to grab some odds and ends like a 4.5" Teraflex lift, the better intake manifold, and another master/booster combo. For $300 it was a good deal.
I don't think my neighbors are thrilled though, there's now three non-running cars at the DarkCharisma household.
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My bill is flatter than yours.
In typical DarkCharisma household fashion, I dropped the transmission at night, in the driveway, alone. AW4, NP231 and both driveshafts came out pretty nicely together. All I gotta do now is grab the matching axles, and I guess yank the 4.0L and get it on the stand to see if it's worth anything... All things considered it was pretty easy to drop this trans. Torque converter bolts were a joy as always, and AMC decided it was best to have three different bolt sizes, but in the end, it wasn't much different than a GM or Ford trans removal. Only gotcha was the loom at the top, but the whole engine leans back so far with the intake manifold off that it's really a non-issue.
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My bill is flatter than yours.
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After about an hour tonight I lost motivation to do anything, my brain's still turned on "work mode" and that harshed my buzz. What I did get done is I got the transmission into the garage and hit it with the wire wheel--I left the transmission full of fluid like an idiot, so I had to explain to the wife why our driveway is now mostly purple-ish. Doh. This is about 10 minutes of wire treatment: 
Going to unplug everything, hit it with some degreaser, and try again later. I started removing the Teraflex lift springs, but didn't have much luck without a spring compressor--I think instead of trying to take it out in pieces I'll just undo the control arm bolts (after they've had a minute to soak in PB Blaster) and roll the whole thing out; I'll have to source another jack but that's not a big deal. 
I also was able to cut some fuel line off of the red Jeep and use it to make some rough templates for the brake lines I need; basic shape should be enough to get it started, especially since I need flex in the middle anyway, it should wind up being close enough. No pics, but just imagine about 9" of 3/16 with three bends and steel braided line between them. My parking lot ... two POSes and ol' reliable. 
Word to the wise, 2.5 projects are too many simultaneously. I've still got to finish tearing this down; it's getting new tires, lifters, springs, custom spec'ed cam, pushrods, trunion upgrade on the rockers, and a new rear differential. With that done I'll still need to re-assemble the interior, which is currently torn apart for a new XM module and fabbing up a center console stack that accommodates a 10.1" Windows Tablet.
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My bill is flatter than yours.
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AW4, NP231 and both driveshafts came out pretty nicely together Much easier to go ahead and remove the driveshafts, the trans and transfer case are reasonably lightweight. I pulled the same combo out of a YJ, and it wasn't too difficult. Project looks good, its had me searching CL for my own Comanche project. Found one semi-local with a bad motor, but they were asking a little too much. |
Stuff I learned from A-Team: 1)Always pity da fool 2)Carry wire cutters (you may need to defuse a bomb or start a car) 3)Never trust a crazy fool 4)Carry grenade launcher/machine guns in the van 5)Know how to weld 6)Love It When A Plan Comes Together
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Originally Posted By Jason280:
Much easier to go ahead and remove the driveshafts, the trans and transfer case are reasonably lightweight. I pulled the same combo out of a YJ, and it wasn't too difficult. Project looks good, its had me searching CL for my own Comanche project. Found one semi-local with a bad motor, but they were asking a little too much. Originally Posted By Jason280:
AW4, NP231 and both driveshafts came out pretty nicely together Much easier to go ahead and remove the driveshafts, the trans and transfer case are reasonably lightweight. I pulled the same combo out of a YJ, and it wasn't too difficult. Project looks good, its had me searching CL for my own Comanche project. Found one semi-local with a bad motor, but they were asking a little too much. Thanks! The whole assembly coming out together wasn't bad, and saved me a ton of time. I'm going to have to split it all anyway, but I need to get the Cherokee out of my driveway ASAP, but otherwise I would agree; separate is usually better. |
My bill is flatter than yours.
Visit for the beauty...stay for the oppression!
Joined:
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Posts:
18994
EE: 100% (20)
NC, USA
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Drove the truck around town all day today. Ran pretty good, needs shocks badly though. Brakes felt much stronger with the new booster and master. Still probably need to chase some more air out of them but overall felt confident at the speeds I was at today.
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My bill is flatter than yours.
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mj/xj brakes just arent stellar to begin with.
probably wont get much better. The duo-servo drums have a tendency to not adjust. if you are feeling adventurous you could get some backing plates from another vehicle (ZJ's I think came with dana 35 discs?) with disc and put discs on the back. it wouldnt be a lot of work. |
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Originally Posted By Keekleberrys:
mj/xj brakes just arent stellar to begin with. probably wont get much better. The duo-servo drums have a tendency to not adjust. if you are feeling adventurous you could get some backing plates from another vehicle (ZJ's I think came with dana 35 discs?) with disc and put discs on the back. it wouldnt be a lot of work. Yeah, that's what I'm gathering. I'd be willing to do a ZJ disc conversion, but I might just hold out for an Explorer 8.8 and get the better rear and brakes simultaneously. Up front, I guess I'll just have to do some stainless braided lines for pedal feel, and bolt on some revised calipers... throw some good compound on the pads and hope for the best. I don't anticipate going bigger than 30-32" tires on this guy, so maybe that'll be enough clamping force. |
My bill is flatter than yours.
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I got the title in-hand to the parts Jeep this week (had to file for a replacement), and finished pulling the 4.0 today out of it. Judging by the sludge, it blew a head gasket. I've got it on a stand and tucked away in the garage, maybe I'll find some time for it this weekend ... the wife is starting to get mad with all the engines, transmissions, and cars on jackstands.
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My bill is flatter than yours.
Both axles are out; the California truck was unsurprisingly easy to get apart, the red Jeep gave me some trouble, but they're ready for the ol' switcheroo. It started to hail right as we rolled the Comanche's beam axle out, excuse the mess It also appears my red jack is a slacker 
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My bill is flatter than yours.
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Ok, so you aren't going to want to hear this... or your wife isn't...
...But given what you've done to that Cherokee already... What you should really do is cut it, just forward of the B-pillar, and make a 'matching' trailer out of it. You close off the front with sheet metal (or, if really ambitious, another Cherokee liftgate), build an A-frame to use as the tow rig, and you can just leave the rear axle in there. If you don't want to do that, we should try to find a buyer who does. That's the perfect Cherokee condition for it. |
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Originally Posted By ASUsax:
Ok, so you aren't going to want to hear this... or your wife isn't... ...But given what you've done to that Cherokee already... What you should really do is cut it, just forward of the B-pillar, and make a 'matching' trailer out of it. You close off the front with sheet metal (or, if really ambitious, another Cherokee liftgate), build an A-frame to use as the tow rig, and you can just leave the rear axle in there. If you don't want to do that, we should try to find a buyer who does. That's the perfect Cherokee condition for it. While that does sound totally badass, I dont' have the fabrication skills or tools to make something like that happen.
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My bill is flatter than yours.
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Originally Posted By DarkCharisma:
While that does sound totally badass, I dont' have the fabrication skills or tools to make something like that happen. Originally Posted By DarkCharisma:
Originally Posted By ASUsax:
Ok, so you aren't going to want to hear this... or your wife isn't... ...But given what you've done to that Cherokee already... What you should really do is cut it, just forward of the B-pillar, and make a 'matching' trailer out of it. You close off the front with sheet metal (or, if really ambitious, another Cherokee liftgate), build an A-frame to use as the tow rig, and you can just leave the rear axle in there. If you don't want to do that, we should try to find a buyer who does. That's the perfect Cherokee condition for it. While that does sound totally badass, I dont' have the fabrication skills or tools to make something like that happen. What you are doing now is much harder. |
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Originally Posted By DarkCharisma: QUESTION: Where can I source good polyeurethane bushings for the control arms, that come with the new metal sleeve? Ruske sells the insert with no sleeve, which seems to be a point of contention come install time. Poly bushings put unneeded extra stress on control arm mounts, especially on the axle end, and are known for tearing mounts off. I would go factory rubber replacement. That's just me though. Nick |
If the enemy is range, so are you.
Don't mind Sylvan, he's fond of throwing intellectual Molotov cocktails.
Don't mind Sylvan, he's fond of throwing intellectual Molotov cocktails.
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Originally Posted By Commando_Guy:
Poly bushings put unneeded extra stress on control arm mounts, especially on the axle end, and are known for tearing mounts off. I would go factory rubber replacement. That's just me though. Nick Originally Posted By Commando_Guy:
Originally Posted By DarkCharisma:
QUESTION: Where can I source good polyeurethane bushings for the control arms, that come with the new metal sleeve? Ruske sells the insert with no sleeve, which seems to be a point of contention come install time. Poly bushings put unneeded extra stress on control arm mounts, especially on the axle end, and are known for tearing mounts off. I would go factory rubber replacement. That's just me though. Nick Lame! but thanks I can grab some rubber ones then... Just trying to avoid getting the dreaded death wobble off the bat.
Are poly bushings something I would look at down the road if I end up getting stronger CA's? Are mounts tearing in situations where the axle is articulating a lot, or are they tearing off axle tube mounts on the way to the gym in the morning? |
My bill is flatter than yours.
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Originally Posted By DarkCharisma: Lame! but thanks I can grab some rubber ones then... Just trying to avoid getting the dreaded death wobble off the bat. Are poly bushings something I would look at down the road if I end up getting stronger CA's? Are mounts tearing in situations where the axle is articulating a lot, or are they tearing off axle tube mounts on the way to the gym in the morning? Originally Posted By DarkCharisma: Originally Posted By Commando_Guy: Originally Posted By DarkCharisma: QUESTION: Where can I source good polyeurethane bushings for the control arms, that come with the new metal sleeve? Ruske sells the insert with no sleeve, which seems to be a point of contention come install time. Poly bushings put unneeded extra stress on control arm mounts, especially on the axle end, and are known for tearing mounts off. I would go factory rubber replacement. That's just me though. Nick Lame! but thanks I can grab some rubber ones then... Just trying to avoid getting the dreaded death wobble off the bat. Are poly bushings something I would look at down the road if I end up getting stronger CA's? Are mounts tearing in situations where the axle is articulating a lot, or are they tearing off axle tube mounts on the way to the gym in the morning? More an articulation thing. The joints need to be able to flex side to side, as well as twisting along the axis of the arms. With new bushings, they should not contribute to death wobble...that doesn't mean other things won't-track arms, ball joints, wheel bearings, out of balance wheels, etc. The stock unboxed arms will twist about their axis quite well, removing that stress, but the angular stress has a crap ton of leverage through the arms to push and pull on the mounts. If you have the coin, I can't recommend Curries, or the equivalent flex joints, highly enough. No binding in any axis, solid, and very long wearing. Nick |
If the enemy is range, so are you.
Don't mind Sylvan, he's fond of throwing intellectual Molotov cocktails.
Don't mind Sylvan, he's fond of throwing intellectual Molotov cocktails.
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Originally Posted By Commando_Guy:
More an articulation thing. The joints need to be able to flex side to side, as well as twisting along the axis of the arms. With new bushings, they should not contribute to death wobble...that doesn't mean other things won't-track arms, ball joints, wheel bearings, out of balance wheels, etc. The stock unboxed arms will twist about their axis quite well, removing that stress, but the angular stress has a crap ton of leverage through the arms to push and pull on the mounts. If you have the coin, I can't recommend Curries, or the equivalent flex joints, highly enough. No binding in any axis, solid, and very long wearing. Nick Curries might be a bit much for my application, but what about something like these RCX sets? I'll have to address the CA's sooner rather than later since I've got lift going on the MJ anyway. http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-adjustable-control-arms-1192.html |
My bill is flatter than yours.
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Originally Posted By DarkCharisma: Curries might be a bit much for my application, but what about something like these RCX sets? I'll have to address the CA's sooner rather than later since I've got lift going on the MJ anyway. http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-adjustable-control-arms-1192.html Originally Posted By DarkCharisma: Originally Posted By Commando_Guy: More an articulation thing. The joints need to be able to flex side to side, as well as twisting along the axis of the arms. With new bushings, they should not contribute to death wobble...that doesn't mean other things won't-track arms, ball joints, wheel bearings, out of balance wheels, etc. The stock unboxed arms will twist about their axis quite well, removing that stress, but the angular stress has a crap ton of leverage through the arms to push and pull on the mounts. If you have the coin, I can't recommend Curries, or the equivalent flex joints, highly enough. No binding in any axis, solid, and very long wearing. Nick Curries might be a bit much for my application, but what about something like these RCX sets? I'll have to address the CA's sooner rather than later since I've got lift going on the MJ anyway. http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-adjustable-control-arms-1192.html Unfortunately, those still have a conventional bushing at one end. For the benefit, you need them at both ends. On my TJ, I did one end at a time-rear lowers, then later front lowers. Then rear uppers when I did my SYE. That way spreads the cost out over time. Lowers end up taking the brunt of the wear, so they generally need replaced first-around 300 can get a pair of Currie lowers-try Savvy Engineering for the best price. Short of that, I would really just do stock replacement rubber bushings. The stock arms will have better flex with less stress than most aftermarket offerings out there. these really can be a buy once cry once deal. FWIW, I ran poly bushings in solid tubular arms on my Cherokee for a while, and I could see the paint start flaking off around the welds on the brackets.  Nick |
If the enemy is range, so are you.
Don't mind Sylvan, he's fond of throwing intellectual Molotov cocktails.
Don't mind Sylvan, he's fond of throwing intellectual Molotov cocktails.
Thanks for the advice. Maybe for now I'll just go with some factory replacement bushings. The red Jeep is officially gone! Kars4Kids should be renamed "Doorside Garbage Pickup" Not too bad of a turnaround, I think this took me just a hair under a month from acquisition to scrapping.
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My bill is flatter than yours.