Posted: 4/29/2014 11:08:01 AM EDT
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I've started my search for an enclosed trailer and have stumbled upon the cheaper trailers that come from the south, specifically southern Georgia.
Does anyone have any firsthand experience with such trailers? Specs seem decent. Example If it matters trailer will be used to transport motorcycles. |
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GA is the hub of trailer building. There are places in MI, MO, and TN, however, 98% of them are all built in GA.
Do your research, look at construction materials. ETA: Yeah, generic advice, but when you start getting into the research, you'll see what I mean. If you're concerned about weight, the MI builders make AL trailers. |
| If you're comparing local dealer prices, to online prices, transportation is what you're paying for. Most trailer transports will run you $1 per mile 1 way distance. For you in MO it shouldn't be crazy, but for me, going to Alma, GA to pick one up, would run me $620 in fuel, plus time and wear and tear on the truck. |
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Sport bikes, I take 3 bikes with me to each event, 2 race bikes and a CR bike. But would like to get at most 5 in the trailer. Plus tools, extra wheels, tires, canopies, chairs, coolers. If I wanted to get crazy my tire machine, generator and air compressor, hell would be awesome to be able to take my lift with me too!
Only other things I would haul would be boxes and furniture if someone I knew moved. I'm already planning on buying bigger than I need, and 8.5'x16' is really the largest I want to buy. I've used a 7x12 vnose and a 6x12 in the past and even though they both work they get packed to the rim with all the extra stuff. The research I've done says to use; Tubing vs I-beams for main frame Tubing vs z-formed members for wall 1 piece aluminium roof to minimize potential leaking 3/4" treated plywood for floor Brakes on all axle's, no brainier Side entrance door, 36" or larger V-nose Things I'm not sure on: Torsion vs leaf spring suspension, 50/50 on what I've read so far. Screws vs 3M adhesive for siding. (only seems like a feature on a few trailers) My main concern is build quality, if I buy an inexpensive no name brand trailer instead of a Wells Cargo, Haulmark or such am I going to regret it? Or has trailer manufacture standards pretty much standardized across the board? |
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From my understanding, a lot of the cheaper trailers that come from GA are also made a lot cheaper. So, for just a trailer for hauling things, they are probably fine. I have a Lark that is built in TX. It's a bit better built from what I can tell than some of the cheap ones from GA.
Mine isn't for hauling things per se so quality was more important to me. |
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Quoted:
From my understanding, a lot of the cheaper trailers that come from GA are also made a lot cheaper. So, for just a trailer for hauling things, they are probably fine. I have a Lark that is built in TX. It's a bit better built from what I can tell than some of the cheap ones from GA. Mine isn't for hauling things per se so quality was more important to me. When you compared the cheap ones to the Lark what did you find different? Are you using yours for a workshop? |
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Quoted:
From my understanding, a lot of the cheaper trailers that come from GA are also made a lot cheaper. So, for just a trailer for hauling things, they are probably fine. I have a Lark that is built in TX. It's a bit better built from what I can tell than some of the cheap ones from GA. Mine isn't for hauling things per se so quality was more important to me. And unless they moved after you purchased yours, Lark says they are build in GA... http://www.larkunited.com/index.php/contact-lark-united-trailer-manufacturer |
| I know you gain some room with the v nose but think about going up to a 18ft. Should be able to fit everything quite nicely with a little extra room. If you have the option of torsion go that route. It's a much smoother ride. You may give up some weight capacity so you have to check it out. I got a coupon for a HF bike work table for $299 if you wanted one for the trailer. The double as a decent workbench/surgical table/bed too |
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I purchased a Champion trailer and it was one of the "cheap" ones. While I have only had it for 3 months I have had it all apart insulating the interior so I'm pretty familiar with it's construction.
For brevity's sake the only thing I have found that really set it apart from the double priced Haulmark's that I looked at was the quality of the interior plywood. It is about 5/16ths thick and made of wood so soft that you could probably make a comfy sofa out of it. The floor plywood is soft as well but nothing like the stuff on the walls. I have spent several nights in mine during HEAVY rains and it is totally leakproof. I was very surprised considering the low price. I got a 7x14 Tandem for $3700. Mine is used as a toy hauler for motorcycles as well and I have not regretted going with the cheaper trailer for one second. |
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Quoted:
I know you gain some room with the v nose but think about going up to a 18ft. Should be able to fit everything quite nicely with a little extra room. If you have the option of torsion go that route. It's a much smoother ride. You may give up some weight capacity so you have to check it out. I got a coupon for a HF bike work table for $299 if you wanted one for the trailer. The double as a decent workbench/surgical table/bed too Quoted:
I know you gain some room with the v nose but think about going up to a 18ft. Should be able to fit everything quite nicely with a little extra room. If you have the option of torsion go that route. It's a much smoother ride. You may give up some weight capacity so you have to check it out. I got a coupon for a HF bike work table for $299 if you wanted one for the trailer. The double as a decent workbench/surgical table/bed too Thanks, price differences between the 16' and 18' is nothing to fret over so ill look into it. Neighbor has the HF lift and I'm not impressed enough to consider buying one. But would be cool to have one to use as a cot in between races! Quoted:
I purchased a Champion trailer and it was one of the "cheap" ones. While I have only had it for 3 months I have had it all apart insulating the interior so I'm pretty familiar with it's construction. For brevity's sake the only thing I have found that really set it apart from the double priced Haulmark's that I looked at was the quality of the interior plywood. It is about 5/16ths thick and made of wood so soft that you could probably make a comfy sofa out of it. The floor plywood is soft as well but nothing like the stuff on the walls. I have spent several nights in mine during HEAVY rains and it is totally leakproof. I was very surprised considering the low price. I got a 7x14 Tandem for $3700. Mine is used as a toy hauler for motorcycles as well and I have not regretted going with the cheaper trailer for one second. Thanks for your feedback! Went by a Haulmark Dealer at lunch was quoted $6500 OTD for a 8.5x16. This one. Even if I had to replace all the wood in the cheaper trailer I would still be ahead. There's very little I cant fix or do, and to save several thousands upfront would be worth having to fixing things later on. |
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When you compared the cheap ones to the Lark what did you find different? Are you using yours for a workshop? Quoted:
Quoted:
From my understanding, a lot of the cheaper trailers that come from GA are also made a lot cheaper. So, for just a trailer for hauling things, they are probably fine. I have a Lark that is built in TX. It's a bit better built from what I can tell than some of the cheap ones from GA. Mine isn't for hauling things per se so quality was more important to me. When you compared the cheap ones to the Lark what did you find different? Are you using yours for a workshop? The plywood is attached via real screws on mine vs screw looking nails. I had to remove the plywood to insulate it and then re-install it. Mine has 3/4 inch plywood on the floor and the frame is very stiff...vs more flex in cheaper trailers. Also, mine had very few areas where the frame wasn't painted. Some of the cheaper trailers don't paint the uprights that are covered with the plywood. I'm building mine into a camper. It's a 6x14 single axle V nose. I paid $3250 OTD with 2 side windows, an RV door, and a window in the door. |
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And unless they moved after you purchased yours, Lark says they are build in GA... http://www.larkunited.com/index.php/contact-lark-united-trailer-manufacturer Quoted:
Quoted:
From my understanding, a lot of the cheaper trailers that come from GA are also made a lot cheaper. So, for just a trailer for hauling things, they are probably fine. I have a Lark that is built in TX. It's a bit better built from what I can tell than some of the cheap ones from GA. Mine isn't for hauling things per se so quality was more important to me. And unless they moved after you purchased yours, Lark says they are build in GA... http://www.larkunited.com/index.php/contact-lark-united-trailer-manufacturer I just bought mine. It was made a couple weeks ago. It was made in TX. The Certificate of Origin that I got with it states "Lark United Manufacturing of Texas LLC". Says it was made in McGregor, TX. |
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Oh also another idea...rather than packing those pop-up canopies mount an awning on the door side of the trailer. Recessed lighting on that side too would be pretty awesome for camping as well as low light conditions. A kendon stand up lift would be perfect for you too...just saying. Of course that necessitates that you bring your generator and air compressor (oh dang). Depending on how you use your trailer at a track day you may want to consider a RV side door and some sliding windows on the other side for cross breeze ventilation w/o lowering the rear door. You can get them tinted pretty dark but it'll give you more light inside without opening up the doors. Extra vents in the roof if you plan on spending a lot of time inside it is a good idea, I think you can get some with a fan built in them too. I'd also consider bedlinering the floor for safety and longevity of the plywood. Plenty of traction and doesn't matter if you have a bike spring a leak or if it's wet out.
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