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AR15.COM
7/4/2013 12:27:57 PM EDT
Looking to get some advice on this issue. I replaced my rear crew cab power window motor last year, and also ran through the known wiring issues with the crew cab trucks.

Recently it quit working again totally.

Today I ran through all of the wiring and I am getting 12v everywhere that I need it, so the door switch is working. I pulled the power window motor off and applied 12v to either of the terminals(up or down direction) and it doesn't work.  Any advice on what I can checkout on the inside of the unit itself for function?


ETA: Just popped the motor open and the gear side spins freely and looks good. The motor portion is locked up solid and there is corrosion present on that side.
7/4/2013 12:51:03 PM EDT
[#1]
I'd suspect it's getting wet; they should last longer than that.  Either that, or bad ground; but if you wired it directly to a 12V source, the motor itself may be toast again.

Like any electric motor, it'll have an armature, field, and contact brushes.  If it is moisture contaminated, you'd see blue-ish corrosion internally.  Probably cheaper/easier to replace than to repair, but I would have a look at the window seals for dry rot, ripped and/or torn neoprene, etc.

7/4/2013 12:57:10 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
I'd suspect it's getting wet; they should last longer than that.  Either that, or bad ground; but if you wired it directly to a 12V source, the motor itself may be toast again.

Like any electric motor, it'll have an armature, field, and contact brushes.  If it is moisture contaminated, you'd see blue-ish corrosion internally.  Probably cheaper/easier to replace than to repair, but I would have a look at the window seals for dry rot, ripped and/or torn neoprene, etc.


Yep there is corrosion all over in that side. My seals are old but not leaking and the plastic door cover was sealed tight.

Appreciate the information bud.
7/4/2013 1:15:46 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
I'd suspect it's getting wet; they should last longer than that.  Either that, or bad ground; but if you wired it directly to a 12V source, the motor itself may be toast again.

Like any DC electric motor, it'll have an armature, field, and contact brushes.  If it is moisture contaminated, you'd see blue-ish corrosion internally.  Probably cheaper/easier to replace than to repair, but I would have a look at the window seals for dry rot, ripped and/or torn neoprene, etc.



Feexd eet
7/4/2013 2:51:37 PM EDT
[#4]
you still need to ground the body. did you do that too?
7/4/2013 9:33:14 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
you still need to ground the body. did you do that too?


Yeah still not functioning at all. Just gonna get a warrantied piece.
7/5/2013 9:31:26 AM EDT
[#6]
If you need more help let me know, I fix cars every day lol. I'll need the year make and model if I need a schematic
7/17/2013 7:10:30 PM EDT
[#7]
Hey guys,

Just an update. I got the old(>1yr old) one warrantied out. I installed that one and tested it and I also was getting nothing. So I went ahead and used my multimeter and I am getting 11..9-12 at the door.
I also took that same motor and attempted to bench test it and got nothing.  I thought maybe my batteries in my pickup were dead from listening to the radio for a couple days without starting it. However, all 3 of my other windows work as well as my power locks so that idea is out.
So I figure I just got a sucky reman.

I got one more so I will see what happens now.