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AR15.COM
6/2/2012 1:41:24 PM EDT
I have an International 340 Utility tractor that was converted to negative ground and 12 volt.  Basically it has what appears to be a GM 1 wire alternator.  The problem is, that it doesn't seem to charge the battery, that is, the more I use it, the rougher it runs until it doesn't want to run at all any more (having to choke it more and more to keep it going, I assume from dismal spark).  Then I charge the battery up and it runs like new again.

I thought the alternator might be shot, but to test this, I pulled the wire off the stud and started the tractor, and testing at the stud to ground, I get 45 vdc, which I thought was odd.  If I hook the wire back up and test, I expect to see 13.5 or 14 vdc, but I only see 12.3-4.

I have another alternator that I could put on, but I wanted to ask before doing it because of the 45 vdc reading.  I don't know if that's significant or not, or how to better test the alternator.  If it was easier to get at I would just swap it, but with the loader on the tractor it's kind of a pain.

Thanks.
6/2/2012 2:38:42 PM EDT
[#1]
45 volts DC?


Really, I'm not really sure what to say about that.


I wonder if the "one wire" conversion is just full fielding the alternator and therefore producing this high voltage.


As a sidenote, I'd watch yourself as 45 volts and 40 some amps is starting to approach the point where sparks will shoot out your ass if you ground


yourself properly.  Seriously, be careful until you figure out whats going on.





One old timer trick is to put a screwdriver or anything metal on the backside of the alternator while it's running and see if it magnetically "sticks"


If it does, that tells you that the fields are getting current and it should be charging.
Look around online, I know there's a ton of stuff on one wire conversions on Gm 10SI alternators and how to test them.


Sorry I couldn't be more help.




 
6/2/2012 3:54:24 PM EDT
[#2]
Thanks, you're pointing me in the right direction.  Isn't it odd that the voltage would drop when reconnected to the battery though?
6/2/2012 3:59:12 PM EDT
[#3]
test your battery voltage when your tractor is not running.  Then test it when it is.  Hi idle, low idle whatever.  When the motor is running voltage should be more than not running if your alternator is working.
6/3/2012 9:40:04 AM EDT
[#4]
Is the alternator "building" a field?

The poster before is right on as far as testing the alternator voltage wise.


I don't know why it goes nuts voltage wise when it's disconnected.


Hopefully someone that understands those damn little electrons better than I shows up.
I had a alternator go full retard charging wise in my Corvette on a 400 mile trip once.



The battery is behind the passenger seat and the sulfur smell damned near killed me.



I expected it pop and shower me with battery acid at any second.



I stopped pretty often to let it cool and top it off with water.



Made it home though and promptly rebuilt it the alternator and had no further problems.


 
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