Posted: 5/28/2012 4:45:21 PM EDT
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I'm adding four sets of lights to the Rubicon and wanted to do it right the first time. So since I've never done automotive wiring before and frankly am a knuckle dragging moron when it comes to electrical I started doing a ton of research. Somewhere along the way I discovered a guy that would custom build a relay / fuse box with all the needed wiring included for a very reasonable price. He's got great reviews on the Jeep forums and since he's using the same Bussmann 15300 series box I was going to use and wasn't much higher in price I figured I'd skip the learning curve and let him build it.
Skip forward past a lot of emails and a couple phone discussions to yesterday and I'm installing this thing with oneilljb. Great hardware, easy to understand, and he's spent an hour or so on the phone with me walking me through my dumb ass questions even though he's at the beach on a holiday weekend. Everything works and we're pretty much good to go . . . with one exception. The indicator lights on the Daystar rocker switches are acting goofy. He's going to look into it when he gets back from the beach but I don't want to bother him anymore on a holiday weekend so here I am. Basically the switches do what they're supposed to. One switch to control each pair of lights: one pair windshield mount, one pair on the bumper, one pair on the bumper hoop, and one pair mounted on the rear tail lights. Flip one rocker and the light pair comes on as well as the indicator light for the switch. Flip two rockers and the correct lights come on but all the rocker indicators come on very dim. Flip three rockers and the correct lights come on but only the indicator light for the switch that isn't on comes on and it's dim but not as dim as the two switches on scenario. Flip all four on and the lights work but no rocker indicator lights. I'm not sure if it makes a difference but the Bussmann box is wired into the Jeep factory fuse box at M7 using a fuse tap. This makes it so the rockers are only active when the key is in the ON or ACC position to prevent some douche from turning on my lights when the top and doors are off and I'm not around. Any ideas what's going on here guys? E-95 |
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Sure. Run heavy wire straight from the battery to the relay. And then use your ignition switched power to a switch tht ctivates the relay.
4 front facing lights is lame. Just get two good ones. Two Lightforce Blitz 240 on the front bumper is plenty. Windshield pillar mounted lights on my Jeep sucked. Glare and reflection city. Any old flood light will be fine on the rear. |
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I'm not familiar with custom fuse/relay boxes. I'm not sure why you need one.
I've always mounted lights, run wires, mount/solder in relay, run to battery, mount switch,...done. Without seeing the box and knowing how the guy built it, I'd be surprised if anybody could help. It sounds like your switch panel isn't getting enough power to run the switch lights(obviously). Good luck! |
| I've had similar issues with small lights in switches and guages. Sounds like the switches may be ran in a series instead of parallel. Did that once and had nearly the same thing was going on. But as others have said, without actually seeing how they are wired, it's gonna be pretty difficult for anyone to diagnose this. |
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I've had similar issues with small lights in switches and guages. Sounds like the switches may be ran in a series instead of parallel. Did that once and had nearly the same thing was going on. But as others have said, without actually seeing how they are wired, it's gonna be pretty difficult for anyone to diagnose this. Thanks Rob and Steven. So the basic thought process was to have all the relays in one place and keep wiring to a minimum (photo below of the same model box I have). And honestly, you lost me at series vs. parallel. I can tell you that the hot and ground for the switch panel are both daisy chained . . . if that's what series means. And I was wondering Rob if the incandescent bulbs in the Daystar lights need more current than the M7 circuit can provide? 
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I've had similar issues with small lights in switches and guages. Sounds like the switches may be ran in a series instead of parallel. Did that once and had nearly the same thing was going on. But as others have said, without actually seeing how they are wired, it's gonna be pretty difficult for anyone to diagnose this. Thanks Rob and Steven. So the basic thought process was to have all the relays in one place and keep wiring to a minimum (photo below of the same model box I have). And honestly, you lost me at series vs. parallel. I can tell you that the hot and ground for the switch panel are both daisy chained . . . if that's what series means. And I was wondering Rob if the incandescent bulbs in the Daystar lights need more current than the M7 circuit can provide? https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HBM0nzNAZYM/Thx09bM-rNI/AAAAAAAASAc/X34yN4P-xyg/P1030508.JPG Wait, is your box a 2 wire or a 3 wire setup on the "in"? If its only a 2 wire (hot and ground) and you are trying to pull ALL of the current for your lights through a fuse tap then thats an issue. It may not be THE issue your describing right now but it needs to be addressed, If its a 3 wire with a hot, a ground, and an ACC well then thats another story and the mystery continues. To be honest with all of that wiring hidden away in the block its hard to tell. It makes for a nice clean install/setup but hard to troubleshoot. You might just have to wait till after his vaca |
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I'm also a NOOB when it comes to wiring.....
HOWEVER.........since the switches all work fine, and do what they are supposed to, all except the indicator switches........ it sounds like your indicator lights aren't getting enough juice, or that the wiring for them is faulty (or what tells them to light up). That would be where I would start my diagnosis.........probably not much help, but like I said, I'm just stabbing at a direction and get thread moving in correct direction. Does it matter which switch order you turn them on in, or does it work one way, but not another? ETA: I saw that they are ran in parallel. Maybe the indicator lights are not getting enough juice to power them all, if multiple lights are turned on. Is there any way you could increase the supplied power and see what happens? OR you could also re-wire them so that they are not in parallel...but I don't know if that is even possible with what you have there. |
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Would have to see the box and/or diagram but something is deffinately screwed with the wiring. Im with Stephen in that it sounds like they are wired in parallel somehow and the juice is sometimes trickling over into the other switches but at a low voltage. So . . . wired in parallel vs. series? I actually don't know what that means. 
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I'm also a NOOB when it comes to wiring..... HOWEVER.........since the switches all work fine, and do what they are supposed to, all except the indicator switches........ it sounds like your indicator lights aren't getting enough juice, or that the wiring for them is faulty (or what tells them to light up). That would be where I would start my diagnosis.........probably not much help, but like I said, I'm just stabbing at a direction and get thread moving in correct direction. Does it matter which switch order you turn them on in, or does it work one way, but not another? ETA: I saw that they are ran in parallel. Maybe the indicator lights are not getting enough juice to power them all, if multiple lights are turned on. Is there any way you could increase the supplied power and see what happens? OR you could also re-wire them so that they are not in parallel...but I don't know if that is even possible with what you have there. Not enough juice was what my inexperience what guessing at. But my knowledge base and experience is so lacking that it's a total stab in the dark. No, switch order doesn't matter, it always does the same thing. E-95 |
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I've had similar issues with small lights in switches and guages. Sounds like the switches may be ran in a series instead of parallel. Did that once and had nearly the same thing was going on. But as others have said, without actually seeing how they are wired, it's gonna be pretty difficult for anyone to diagnose this. Thanks Rob and Steven. So the basic thought process was to have all the relays in one place and keep wiring to a minimum (photo below of the same model box I have). And honestly, you lost me at series vs. parallel. I can tell you that the hot and ground for the switch panel are both daisy chained . . . if that's what series means. And I was wondering Rob if the incandescent bulbs in the Daystar lights need more current than the M7 circuit can provide? https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HBM0nzNAZYM/Thx09bM-rNI/AAAAAAAASAc/X34yN4P-xyg/P1030508.JPG That is a very clean looking setup there. Of course, there's not much to lighting/relays as long as they're solidly mounted. I'm not electrical genius. I've wired lights/winches on Jeeps and I've played around with a few other things. The way I understand it is thus, if your switches are wired in a series, the voltage drop from one switch to the nxt may be enough to prevent the following switch bulbs from illuminating. If the switches were wired in parallel, you'd see no voltage drop. Still can't tell how the switches are wired. Switches are very simple and although my explanation may (or may not) sound complicated I think your fix will be a very simple one. You lost me on the M7 fuse honestly. The fuse can only limit current by popping. And while the custom fuse/relay block is very nice looking, I can't help but wonder if the problem is there.  Wiring lights is a very, very simple thing to do on a Jeep.
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I've had similar issues with small lights in switches and guages. Sounds like the switches may be ran in a series instead of parallel. Did that once and had nearly the same thing was going on. But as others have said, without actually seeing how they are wired, it's gonna be pretty difficult for anyone to diagnose this. Thanks Rob and Steven. So the basic thought process was to have all the relays in one place and keep wiring to a minimum (photo below of the same model box I have). And honestly, you lost me at series vs. parallel. I can tell you that the hot and ground for the switch panel are both daisy chained . . . if that's what series means. And I was wondering Rob if the incandescent bulbs in the Daystar lights need more current than the M7 circuit can provide? https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HBM0nzNAZYM/Thx09bM-rNI/AAAAAAAASAc/X34yN4P-xyg/P1030508.JPG Thats a series. And perhaps your problem. you're getting just enough voltage drop from switch to switch to prevent full illumination. I would wire each switch separately withc each getting its own pos and neg wire. |
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I've had similar issues with small lights in switches and guages. Sounds like the switches may be ran in a series instead of parallel. Did that once and had nearly the same thing was going on. But as others have said, without actually seeing how they are wired, it's gonna be pretty difficult for anyone to diagnose this. Thanks Rob and Steven. So the basic thought process was to have all the relays in one place and keep wiring to a minimum (photo below of the same model box I have). And honestly, you lost me at series vs. parallel. I can tell you that the hot and ground for the switch panel are both daisy chained . . . if that's what series means. And I was wondering Rob if the incandescent bulbs in the Daystar lights need more current than the M7 circuit can provide? https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HBM0nzNAZYM/Thx09bM-rNI/AAAAAAAASAc/X34yN4P-xyg/P1030508.JPG Thats a series. And perhaps your problem. you're getting just enough voltage drop from switch to switch to prevent full illumination. I would wire each switch separately withc each getting its own pos and neg wire. The M7 fuse is used to provide power to the rocker switches. And M7 is only powered if the key is turned (it's actually for rear seat heaters that I don't have). I'll pull the meter out tonight and see if I'm getting voltage drop. I just did a quick test that he wanted me to try: pull the fuse tap from the factory fuse box, connect one prong directly to the battery positive, and see what the switches do. Same deal . . . wonky switch indicator lights. E-95 ETA: And believe me, while I know the guy is trying his best to help to diagnose and solve the problem . . . three states' distance makes that a difficult and I'm getting frustrated. I'm starting to wish I had done just simple switches and relays. |
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I've had similar issues with small lights in switches and guages. Sounds like the switches may be ran in a series instead of parallel. Did that once and had nearly the same thing was going on. But as others have said, without actually seeing how they are wired, it's gonna be pretty difficult for anyone to diagnose this. Thanks Rob and Steven. So the basic thought process was to have all the relays in one place and keep wiring to a minimum (photo below of the same model box I have). And honestly, you lost me at series vs. parallel. I can tell you that the hot and ground for the switch panel are both daisy chained . . . if that's what series means. And I was wondering Rob if the incandescent bulbs in the Daystar lights need more current than the M7 circuit can provide? https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HBM0nzNAZYM/Thx09bM-rNI/AAAAAAAASAc/X34yN4P-xyg/P1030508.JPG Thats a series. And perhaps your problem. you're getting just enough voltage drop from switch to switch to prevent full illumination. I would wire each switch separately withc each getting its own pos and neg wire. Though what's weird is as I understand it, when he flips the switch for one light and the switch becomes illuminated, the other switches light up as well. And with the third switch thrown only the unflipped switch indicator light comes on. Something is seriously screwy. |
Just so you know what I'm talking about, here's a photo of the switch panel I have and it also has the same model rocker switches (Daystar):
Now here are photos of what my switches do. First photo is the 2nd switch flipped on: 
Second photo is the two middle switches on: 
Third photo of the bottom three switches on (that's the top switch that isn't on illumintated): 
Flip on all four switches and the indicator lights are all dark. E-95 |
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I've had similar issues with small lights in switches and guages. Sounds like the switches may be ran in a series instead of parallel. Did that once and had nearly the same thing was going on. But as others have said, without actually seeing how they are wired, it's gonna be pretty difficult for anyone to diagnose this. Thanks Rob and Steven. So the basic thought process was to have all the relays in one place and keep wiring to a minimum (photo below of the same model box I have). And honestly, you lost me at series vs. parallel. I can tell you that the hot and ground for the switch panel are both daisy chained . . . if that's what series means. And I was wondering Rob if the incandescent bulbs in the Daystar lights need more current than the M7 circuit can provide? https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HBM0nzNAZYM/Thx09bM-rNI/AAAAAAAASAc/X34yN4P-xyg/P1030508.JPG Thats a series. And perhaps your problem. you're getting just enough voltage drop from switch to switch to prevent full illumination. I would wire each switch separately withc each getting its own pos and neg wire. The M7 fuse is used to provide power to the rocker switches. And M7 is only powered if the key is turned (it's actually for rear seat heaters that I don't have). I'll pull the meter out tonight and see if I'm getting voltage drop. I just did a quick test that he wanted me to try: pull the fuse tap from the factory fuse box, connect one prong directly to the battery positive, and see what the switches do. Same deal . . . wonky switch indicator lights. E-95 ETA: And believe me, while I know the guy is trying his best to help to diagnose and solve the problem . . . three states' distance makes that a difficult and I'm getting frustrated. I'm starting to wish I had done just simple switches and relays. So you've ruled out the M7 then (glad I know that, I will sound much smarter when explaining Jeep parlance to the wife..."that there babe is the M7 fuse, very important, I'll need complete silence while I refill the windshield washer reservoir  )
I really wish I could help you man. Lights just aren't hard to do. If I could hold that fuse/relay box and see what/how he's got things wired I'd be more help. Good luck! |
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Just so you know what I'm talking about, here's a photo of the switch panel I have and it also has the same model rocker switches (Daystar): http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Images/147580/147580-lg.jpg Now here are photos of what my switches do. First photo is the 2nd switch flipped on: http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/782/photo3nhz.jpg Second photo is the two middle switches on: http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/5633/photo2vc.jpg Third photo of the bottom three switches on (that's the top switch that isn't on illumintated): http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/329/photo1ia.jpg Flip on all four switches and the indicator lights are all dark. E-95 Yes, but the switches shouldn't have power unless they're flipped. The switch completes the circuit which powers your exterior lights and the lights in the A-pillar panel (which is sharp btw). Flipping switch A, shouldn't have anything to do with power going to switch B. I'm familiar with those switches. They aren't all 4 mounted on a main board, they each have seperate circuitry and seperate boards. Open custom fuse/relay block with hammer. Lets take a look inside.
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Incorrectly shared wiring for the switch indicator lamps will cause this exact problem. It sounds like the indicator lamps have been wired in series and not parallel. Series results in other indicator lamps getting juice (not full juice due to resistance of the other indicators) when any one of the lamps is powered. ETA: OR After checking the wiring on the Daystar rocker switch, it's VERY likely the power/ground was connected to the WRONG terminal of the switch. |
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Incorrectly shared wiring for the switch indicator lamps will cause this exact problem. It sounds like the indicator lamps have been wired in series and not parallel. Series results in other indicator lamps getting juice (not full juice due to resistance of the other indicators) when any one of the lamps is powered. yeah we covered that. They are most definitely wired in series. Problem is, theres a custom fuse/relay block where the builder somehow tried to tie them all together. Not sure how its wired. |
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Incorrectly shared wiring for the switch indicator lamps will cause this exact problem. It sounds like the indicator lamps have been wired in series and not parallel. Series results in other indicator lamps getting juice (not full juice due to resistance of the other indicators) when any one of the lamps is powered. ETA: OR After checking the wiring on the Daystar rocker switch, it's VERY likely the power/ground was connected to the WRONG terminal of the switch. How? Wired in series it should be power wire to + - to +- to + - to + - terminating in ground wire. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Incorrectly shared wiring for the switch indicator lamps will cause this exact problem. It sounds like the indicator lamps have been wired in series and not parallel. Series results in other indicator lamps getting juice (not full juice due to resistance of the other indicators) when any one of the lamps is powered. ETA: OR After checking the wiring on the Daystar rocker switch, it's VERY likely the power/ground was connected to the WRONG terminal of the switch. How? Wired in series it should be power wire to + - to +- to + - to + - terminating in ground wire. Unless I'm mistaken, those Daystar rocker switches have 3 terminals on the back. - Ground - Voltage In - Switched Voltage Out If you connect your ground or positive to the wrong terminal the switch indicator lamps will not function correctly even thought the switch itself may appear to function fully. |
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Incorrectly shared wiring for the switch indicator lamps will cause this exact problem. It sounds like the indicator lamps have been wired in series and not parallel. Series results in other indicator lamps getting juice (not full juice due to resistance of the other indicators) when any one of the lamps is powered. ETA: OR After checking the wiring on the Daystar rocker switch, it's VERY likely the power/ground was connected to the WRONG terminal of the switch. How? Wired in series it should be power wire to + - to +- to + - to + - terminating in ground wire. Unless I'm mistaken, those Daystar rocker switches have 3 terminals on the back. - Ground - Voltage In - Switched Voltage Out If you connect your ground or positive to the wrong terminal the switch indicator lamps will not function correctly even thought the switch itself may appear to function fully. Having never used Daystar switches, I will defer to your wisdom. This should be an easy fix if this is the case. |
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Although the switches came with zero documentation, multiple sources on the web say that terminal 7 is ground, terminal 2 is hot, and terminal 3 is outgoing. So that's the way they're wired.
He did just ask if the Bussmann box was grounded to the battery negative like his instructions or grounded to the frame. We grounded it to a bolt for the front quarter panel because the eye connection on his ground wire didn't fit over the battery negative terminal. Would not grounding to the battery make a difference? I thought a ground was a ground. E-95 ETA: And hell, I can flip the hot and ground around tonight and see what it does. Maybe the interwebs was wrong!
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Quoted: Although the switches came with zero documentation, multiple sources on the web say that terminal 7 is ground, terminal 2 is hot, and terminal 3 is outgoing. So that's the way they're wired. He did just ask if the Bussmann box was grounded to the battery negative like his instructions or grounded to the frame. We grounded it to a bolt for the front quarter panel because the eye connection on his ground wire didn't fit over the battery negative terminal. Would not grounding to the battery make a difference? I thought a ground was a ground. E-95 ETA: And hell, I can flip the hot and ground around tonight and see what it does. Maybe the interwebs was wrong! If you have them wired this way; check your ground to ensure it's making a good connection. You're sourcing the ground from the wrong location somewhere. It's either how they're wired or the grounding point isn't sufficient. |
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Is it grounded to bare metal or a painted surface? Duh . . . painted surface. I'm a knot head.
E-95 Paint certainly doesn't help things!! And I quote from my first post: ". . . am a knuckle dragging moron when it comes to electrical . . ."
E-95 |
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Well, the ground isn't the problem. The Bussmann box is now ground directly to the negative battery post and the rocker indicator lights are still doing the same thing.
E-95 Have you checked the switch wiring as suggested on page one? After that, I'm at a loss. |
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Well, the ground isn't the problem. The Bussmann box is now ground directly to the negative battery post and the rocker indicator lights are still doing the same thing.
E-95 Have you checked the switch wiring as suggested on page one? After that, I'm at a loss. Do you mean flip the positive and ground terminal wiring on the switches? Yea, tried that but no dice. The guy is trying to duplicate the problem in his shop (buying Daystar switches today) but his initial thought is that the switch ground which goes all the way back to the Bussmann box by the battery isn't a large enough gauge and/or the wire run is too long. Hard to tell but it's probably 14 or 16 gauge and the run is from the driver's A pillar across the engine compartment right along the hood hinges and then to the box which is right in front of the battery . . . what, about 7'? Think he's on the right track? Regardless, I'm going to stop by Autozone today and pick up some 12 gauge wire, rig up a quick daisy chain, and ground it to the closest frame bolt I can find. E-95 |
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Can you provide any pictures of the wiring on his bussman box? Preferably with some labeling... I'm pretty certain this is a quick fix given the components used; just need to know the rest of the picture. Can you read a wiring diagram if I were to draw one for you? |
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Can you provide any pictures of the wiring on his bussman box? Preferably with some labeling... I'm pretty certain this is a quick fix given the components used; just need to know the rest of the picture. Can you read a wiring diagram if I were to draw one for you? Yes and yes. I'm going to pull the box out this weekend and will be able to get some good photos. I didn't initially plan on opening up the box but given what's going on it's become a necessity to diagnose what's going on. So I'll get some good high res photos inside and out this weekend with everything labeled. E-95 |
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Well, the ground isn't the problem. The Bussmann box is now ground directly to the negative battery post and the rocker indicator lights are still doing the same thing.
E-95 Have you checked the switch wiring as suggested on page one? After that, I'm at a loss. Do you mean flip the positive and ground terminal wiring on the switches? Yea, tried that but no dice. The guy is trying to duplicate the problem in his shop (buying Daystar switches today) but his initial thought is that the switch ground which goes all the way back to the Bussmann box by the battery isn't a large enough gauge and/or the wire run is too long. Hard to tell but it's probably 14 or 16 gauge and the run is from the driver's A pillar across the engine compartment right along the hood hinges and then to the box which is right in front of the battery . . . what, about 7'? Think he's on the right track? Regardless, I'm going to stop by Autozone today and pick up some 12 gauge wire, rig up a quick daisy chain, and ground it to the closest frame bolt I can find. E-95 a weak ground? hmm. IME, a poor ground generally only results in 100% failure or intermittent working (flickering)...not diminished performance. But again, I am not an electrician and have limited experience. |
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Well, the ground isn't the problem. The Bussmann box is now ground directly to the negative battery post and the rocker indicator lights are still doing the same thing.
E-95 Have you checked the switch wiring as suggested on page one? After that, I'm at a loss. Do you mean flip the positive and ground terminal wiring on the switches? Yea, tried that but no dice. The guy is trying to duplicate the problem in his shop (buying Daystar switches today) but his initial thought is that the switch ground which goes all the way back to the Bussmann box by the battery isn't a large enough gauge and/or the wire run is too long. Hard to tell but it's probably 14 or 16 gauge and the run is from the driver's A pillar across the engine compartment right along the hood hinges and then to the box which is right in front of the battery . . . what, about 7'? Think he's on the right track? Regardless, I'm going to stop by Autozone today and pick up some 12 gauge wire, rig up a quick daisy chain, and ground it to the closest frame bolt I can find. E-95 a weak ground? hmm. IME, a poor ground generally only results in 100% failure or intermittent working (flickering)...not diminished performance. But again, I am not an electrician and have limited experience. Yea, it doesn't really make sense to me either. I sure wouldn't expect it to be doing what it's doing to the indicator lights. I was chalking it up to lack of knowledge and experience on my part. But it'll take me maybe 10 minutes to rig up a short run ground wire when I get home so I don't see a lot of harm in giving it a try. E-95 |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Well, the ground isn't the problem. The Bussmann box is now ground directly to the negative battery post and the rocker indicator lights are still doing the same thing. E-95 Have you checked the switch wiring as suggested on page one? After that, I'm at a loss. Do you mean flip the positive and ground terminal wiring on the switches? Yea, tried that but no dice. The guy is trying to duplicate the problem in his shop (buying Daystar switches today) but his initial thought is that the switch ground which goes all the way back to the Bussmann box by the battery isn't a large enough gauge and/or the wire run is too long. Hard to tell but it's probably 14 or 16 gauge and the run is from the driver's A pillar across the engine compartment right along the hood hinges and then to the box which is right in front of the battery . . . what, about 7'? Think he's on the right track? Regardless, I'm going to stop by Autozone today and pick up some 12 gauge wire, rig up a quick daisy chain, and ground it to the closest frame bolt I can find. E-95 a weak ground? hmm. IME, a poor ground generally only results in 100% failure or intermittent working (flickering)...not diminished performance. But again, I am not an electrician and have limited experience. A poor/weak ground with DC signals can result in a higher resistance value in a circuit and varying actual voltages. This would be symptomatic of weak outputs on lights or with LED's non-lighting. Intermittent conditions can also be caused due to poor grounding where a capacitance builds between the ground contact points. This is usually the caused by rust and would result in fluctuations in power. The above applies mainly to analog (relays, bulbs, and switches) circuits; with digital circuits, usually it works or it does CRAZY things. I'm thinking at this point that something was plugged together incorrectly. |
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I'm adding four sets of lights to the Rubicon and wanted to do it right the first time. In that case send them back and get some Rigid LED Lights. Not only are they better, but swill come with wiring harness. I was just going to say that... I feel bad piling on, but I just installed a Rigid 20" E series lightbar in my truck; it blows away four 100 watt Lightforce 170 incandescent lights. IMHO, if the OP has the option, I'd switch to high quality LED lighting like Rigid or Vision X. |
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I'm adding four sets of lights to the Rubicon and wanted to do it right the first time. In that case send them back and get some Rigid LED Lights. Not only are they better, but swill come with wiring harness. I was just going to say that... I feel bad piling on, but I just installed a Rigid 20" E series lightbar in my truck; it blows away four 100 watt Lightforce 170 incandescent lights. IMHO, if the OP has the option, I'd switch to high quality LED lighting like Rigid or Vision X. I'm already ahead of you. Rigid Duallys on the bumper have convinced me I'm replacing all the conventional lights in the coming weeks with Rigid models. E-95 |
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I'm adding four sets of lights to the Rubicon and wanted to do it right the first time. In that case send them back and get some Rigid LED Lights. Not only are they better, but swill come with wiring harness. I was just going to say that... I feel bad piling on, but I just installed a Rigid 20" E series lightbar in my truck; it blows away four 100 watt Lightforce 170 incandescent lights. IMHO, if the OP has the option, I'd switch to high quality LED lighting like Rigid or Vision X. I'm already ahead of you. Rigid Duallys on the bumper have convinced me I'm replacing all the conventional lights in the coming weeks with Rigid models. E-95 You'll be much happier in the end. You'll get much better light using 1/5th the wattage. LED's also tend to last forever. As far as I can tell, other than initial cost, there are no drawbacks to high quality LED's. |
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Well, had a guy from work that used to be a C-130 electrical tech look at the switch problem. After he spent about 10 minutes running his test meter all over the place he figured out that the daisy chained switch ground wire wasn't grounded. He pulled a vampire clip out of his toolbox, tapped the ground wire, and ran a wire to a frame bolt in the dash and everything's working right.
As a side note, Rigid Duallys are the gateway light. I've moved up to a 10" E-Series for the bumper hoop. Next thing you know, I'll be strung out on a 50" E-Series.
E-95 |