Posted: 2/26/2011 5:41:06 PM EDT
I sold my car today,now im looking for something to replace it with. My friend has a 2000 gt mustang he would sell me for $3k. It has a little over 100k miles,auto but is in good shape. He takes care of it,and doesnt drive the piss out of it. Ive talked to him every day or two for the past 16 years so I know a lot about the car. What should I look for before I buy it? Im not looking for a street king,fast ass car.Im just looking for a fun DD that I can fix up here and there.
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If auto, the 4R70W is notorious for burnt out torque converter lockup clutches and overdrive failures. If manual, I think they started using the TR-3650 in 2001, which is still problematic on S197s up until Ford switched to 6-speeds auto/manual for S197s. The intake manifold coolant crossover in the front will rupture if it is plastic, check to see if it was upgraded to aluminum (just the front coolant crossover). |
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Quoted:
If auto, the 4R70W is notorious for burnt out torque converter lockup clutches and overdrive failures. If manual, I think they started using the TR-3650 in 2001, which is still problematic on S197s up until Ford switched to 6-speeds auto/manual for S197s. The intake manifold coolant crossover in the front will rupture if it is plastic, check to see if it was upgraded to aluminum (just the front coolant crossover). Thanks for the info. How do I look up the intake manifold crossover? |
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Quoted: Quoted: If auto, the 4R70W is notorious for burnt out torque converter lockup clutches and overdrive failures. If manual, I think they started using the TR-3650 in 2001, which is still problematic on S197s up until Ford switched to 6-speeds auto/manual for S197s. The intake manifold coolant crossover in the front will rupture if it is plastic, check to see if it was upgraded to aluminum (just the front coolant crossover). Thanks for the info. How do I look up the intake manifold crossover? Pop the hood, peek right behind the alternator where the alternator bracket bolts onto the intake manifold. If it is shiny aluminum, it's OK. If it is plastic (black), you will want to swap the intake manifold. If you intend to do that, you might want some ported heads with aftermarket camshafts while you're at it  If you don't have a bracket for the intake manifold, then just look at the intake manifold part right behind the alternator. That is the coolant crossover passage. 96-02 2V engines all had plastic intake manifolds. In MY2003, Ford switched to a plastic intake manifold that has an aluminum coolant crossover just on the front. There are also 2 types of 2V heads/intakes: Non-PI (96-98 Mustangs) and PI (99-04), so that 2000 GT is a PI 4.6L 2V in case you need a new manifold. Some people never have issues with the plastic crossover, but this was a common failure and Ford settled a class action lawsuit instead of recalling all 96-02 2V intakes so a lot of people still got screwed over. |
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If auto, the 4R70W is notorious for burnt out torque converter lockup clutches and overdrive failures. If manual, I think they started using the TR-3650 in 2001, which is still problematic on S197s up until Ford switched to 6-speeds auto/manual for S197s. The intake manifold coolant crossover in the front will rupture if it is plastic, check to see if it was upgraded to aluminum (just the front coolant crossover). +1, the intake manifold broke on my cousin's '00 GT, replaced it with an alu one. |
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If auto, the 4R70W is notorious for burnt out torque converter lockup clutches and overdrive failures. If manual, I think they started using the TR-3650 in 2001, which is still problematic on S197s up until Ford switched to 6-speeds auto/manual for S197s. The intake manifold coolant crossover in the front will rupture if it is plastic, check to see if it was upgraded to aluminum (just the front coolant crossover). Thanks for the info. How do I look up the intake manifold crossover? Pop the hood, peek right behind the alternator where the alternator bracket bolts onto the intake manifold. If it is shiny aluminum, it's OK. If it is plastic (black), you will want to swap the intake manifold. If you intend to do that, you might want some ported heads with aftermarket camshafts while you're at it
If you don't have a bracket for the intake manifold, then just look at the intake manifold part right behind the alternator. That is the coolant crossover passage. 96-02 2V engines all had plastic intake manifolds. In MY2003, Ford switched to a plastic intake manifold that has an aluminum coolant crossover just on the front. There are also 2 types of 2V heads/intakes: Non-PI (96-98 Mustangs) and PI (99-04), so that 2000 GT is a PI 4.6L 2V in case you need a new manifold. Some people never have issues with the plastic crossover, but this was a common failure and Ford settled a class action lawsuit instead of recalling all 96-02 2V intakes so a lot of people still got screwed over. Awesome!!! Much appreciated. The car isnt the greatest,it has some paint peeling here and there, a few small issues but it runs good. For $3k it will be a good car for me. |
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They are pretty decent cars.
I went to highschool with a guy that had a GT while I had a Mach1. He spent so much money trying to get it to perform like my Mach1. Finally he broke down. He got full exhaust, forged internals, vortech blower, and cams.... Still only made about 500hp. |
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Quoted: Quoted: 2000 is a PI headed car its the 96-99 that wasn't PI. '99 was PI. 96, 97, and 98 sohc aren't. 96-98 4.6 2V was a Romeo Non-PI 99-00 4.6 2V was Windsor PI 01-04 4.6 2V was PI I'm not sure when they switched back to Romeo 4.6 engines for the Mustang, it's been awhile but I think it was 01-04 that had Romeo PI 4.6 2V engines. You can tell by the types of cam girdles that are used or the cam cover bolt pattern. |
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Quoted: Quoted: I wouldn't buy it. For a little bit more money you could track down a 1995 mustang GT with a 5.0. Yeah probably but the longer I wait the longer im without a car I would rather have another lt1 car over the 94-95 gt style anyway  I got ya, yea not having a ride makes a big difference. $3000 isn't too bad of a price for a 2000, and they are nicely optioned cars. Just be prepared for the transmission, I'd take it in and get it checked out, cleaned serviced and new fluid. Apperantly the trick to long life in newer (90's through 2000's) ford transmissions in changing the fluid every 30-40,000 miles. Apperantly using synthetic fluid can really help also, and is what I switched to in my Explorer. Synthetic fluid is supposed to run a lot cooler, and if overheated, maintains it's properties after cooling much better than standard oil. Hope that helps, it's no reason to be scared away from the car, and I'm definitely not trying to fear monger you away from the car, but that's life with Fords.  My wallet is all to familiar with that life.  |
