Posted: 4/15/2014 3:43:42 PM EDT
|
What are you guys using? Thinking about picking up the phottix odin. Pocket wizards seem a bit cumbersome. Currently using a set I cheap poppers from cowboy studios, but I'm looking for a little more control. Also thinking about the yumgnou set... Much cheaper. Any one have experience with those? Shooting nikon.
|
|
Quoted:
What are you guys using? Thinking about picking up the phottix odin. Pocket wizards seem a bit cumbersome. Currently using a set I cheap poppers from cowboy studios, but I'm looking for a little more control. Also thinking about the yumgnou set... Much cheaper. Any one have experience with those? Shooting nikon. I use pocket wizards, just the basic ones. I like them it and they are reliable. I mostly use it to trigger my camera remotely, but the odd time I use it to trigger my OCF. |
| I have some of the cheap yongnuos. 602's I think. They work perfectly for me. I've tested them and across an open field they stop working at a distance of around 110-120 yds though indoors range is shorter. Maybe 70-80 yds. They've been very reliable but I keep extra batteries on hand since I tend to forget to switch them off when done. |
|
Quoted:
How well do the 622s work at controlling groups? Are they reliable? At $15o for a set of two and trigger they sure look better that $400 for the Phottix or $700 for PW's. Quoted:
Quoted:
Yongnuo YN-622Ns at home, and one PocketWizard III Plus for studios. Are they reliable? At $15o for a set of two and trigger they sure look better that $400 for the Phottix or $700 for PW's. I use the YN-622Ns in manual mode, not TTL mode. So I cannot answer your question regarding controlling groups. I've experimented with it though. It seemed to have it's quirks, but I am told the Canon version works fine (YN-622C). Makes sense because Canon is much better had releasing information than Nikon. That is why Canon versions always appear first. Nikon versions require a bit more reverse engineering. Range and reliability have never been an issue at all. I purchased the YN-622 series over the 602/3 series simply because it has a locking pin. The 602/3 series rely on friction from the contact pins to keep itself on the camera's hotshoe. If TTL mode (or eTTL/iTTL) is required for you, I would recommend other models. YN-622 series do not have a USB port to upgrade the firmware. Most annoying issue I find with the Yongnou's is the button can be easily hit changing the channel or group while shooting. They need better buttons or a lock-out switch. I use the PocketWizard for the rental studios in my area. All of them have their strobes setup to be compatible with PocketWizards. So, I just need one. |
|
Quoted: I use the YN-622Ns in manual mode, not TTL mode. So I cannot answer your question regarding controlling groups. I've experimented with it though. It seemed to have it's quirks, but I am told the Canon version works fine (YN-622C). Makes sense because Canon is much better had releasing information than Nikon. That is why Canon versions always appear first. Nikon versions require a bit more reverse engineering. Range and reliability have never been an issue at all. I purchased the YN-622 series over the 602/3 series simply because it has a locking pin. The 602/3 series rely on friction from the contact pins to keep itself on the camera's hotshoe. If TTL mode (or eTTL/iTTL) is required for you, I would recommend other models. YN-622 series do not have a USB port to upgrade the firmware. Most annoying issue I find with the Yongnou's is the button can be easily hit changing the channel or group while shooting. They need better buttons or a lock-out switch. I use the PocketWizard for the rental studios in my area. All of them have their strobes setup to be compatible with PocketWizards. So, I just need one. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Yongnuo YN-622Ns at home, and one PocketWizard III Plus for studios. Are they reliable? At $15o for a set of two and trigger they sure look better that $400 for the Phottix or $700 for PW's. I use the YN-622Ns in manual mode, not TTL mode. So I cannot answer your question regarding controlling groups. I've experimented with it though. It seemed to have it's quirks, but I am told the Canon version works fine (YN-622C). Makes sense because Canon is much better had releasing information than Nikon. That is why Canon versions always appear first. Nikon versions require a bit more reverse engineering. Range and reliability have never been an issue at all. I purchased the YN-622 series over the 602/3 series simply because it has a locking pin. The 602/3 series rely on friction from the contact pins to keep itself on the camera's hotshoe. If TTL mode (or eTTL/iTTL) is required for you, I would recommend other models. YN-622 series do not have a USB port to upgrade the firmware. Most annoying issue I find with the Yongnou's is the button can be easily hit changing the channel or group while shooting. They need better buttons or a lock-out switch. I use the PocketWizard for the rental studios in my area. All of them have their strobes setup to be compatible with PocketWizards. So, I just need one. It looks to be similar to the Phottix, but I'm having trouble finding definitive answers. Sounds good, but also somewhat hearsay. Not sure it's worth $200 to find out if it's true. I know that the Odin system will do it all for $400. |
|
PocketWizards with Control-TL. I wouldn't recommend PW's unless you're using them for the extended Control-TL features. If you just need basic triggers, stick with the Chinese made solutions. Cheap and for the most part, they work.
Old writeup with video: http://www.ocabj.net/in-depth-pcb-einsteins-pocketwizard-minitt1-ac3-and-powermc2/ |
|
Define more control . What are you using for lights ? Most strobes can't take advantage of what the higher end triggers can do . Some flashes ( older non i-ttl such as SB-80 , SB-28 ) . All you can do is trigger them If you every plan to go to strobes, the only way to go is the PW . The PW TT1 and TT5 can control some Elinchrom, the Alien Bee and Einstein strobe I control 3 zones independently with my TT1 a mix of Nikon speedlights, Elinchrome and Einsten strobe The best part is the Power Tracking , where if I change F stop on my camera , the lights automatically compensate . Watch some of the Pocket Wizard videos of ControlTL If you only every will use i-ttl speedlights then there are lots of good choices there For basic triggering the less Pocket wizard ( Plus X , Plus III ) is overpriced . Only reason I use them is I'm already committed to PW |
|
Quoted:
PocketWizards with Control-TL. I wouldn't recommend PW's unless you're using them for the extended Control-TL features. If you just need basic triggers, stick with the Chinese made solutions. Cheap and for the most part, they work. Old writeup with video: http://www.ocabj.net/in-depth-pcb-einsteins-pocketwizard-minitt1-ac3-and-powermc2/ I am guessing he will be using the triggers with speedlights. If that's the case, he should stay the hell away from PocketWizards unless he has a trust fund. OP, if you are a Nikon shooter, then the YN-622Ns for the speedlights, and a YN-622N-TX for the camera. That will give you very good control for groups at your camera without walking to each speedlight. If you are a Canon shooter, then the YN-622Cs all around as the on-camera menu system works. You can use the YN-622 on the camera to control the remote speedlights but the funky system of using the few buttons will require you to consult the manual frequently, and your model will become bored and leave. The YN-622N-TX has an LCD and dedicated buttons like whats on a speedlight. Yongnuo has a version for the Canon as well. Go to flashhavoc.com |
|
I mostly need to control two lights, but sometimes three. I use a couple of Nikon SB 600 and a SB900 outdoors and in. But I will be using studio strobes from time to time as the need for more power arises. By more control I mean that I am looking for more than just a dummy trigger. I shoot in manual and want to adjust the levels without having to walk over to the flash. I like to ideal of the YN622s and the TX, but am not too keen on the idea of spending $1000 in an attempt to save a couple hundred. The PW's are looking more out of the question by the day since they cost an arm and a leg just to get started. Not to mention that every little accessory for them cost a couple hundred.... |
|
If you want to mix small flash (speedlights / speedlites) and big flash (studio strobes) *AND* you want to control all of them remotely, you're pretty much going to have to shell out for PocketWizard.
RadioPoppers are supposedly a more reliable system for Speedlites (since PW and Canon flash have long since had interference issues), but don't offer remote power control for big flash. Paul C Buff Cybersyncs are great to remote control power of PCB strobes, but don't offer remote power control of small flash. Of course, you can do some quasi-system mixing where you use some cheap alternative that offers remote control of small flash, which is triggered from camera, but then have Einsteins which are power controlled from a CyberSync Cybercommander that you just keep in your pocket (not on hotshoe) and make sure the Einsteins pop on the optical slave. This of course becomes complicated, and costly. My opinion: Don't even bother trying to remote power control both small and big flash at the same time. It's just more trouble that it's worth. |
|
Quoted: I use the basic yonguos. Manual control only, no TTL. they work for my purposes. |
|
I am already invested in Pocket Wizard system.. My PlusII are over a decade old. Still working strong there.. For the Odin/Mitros.. I heard they are really good. They have about 90% of the OEM for 50% of the price. And I wouldn't go to the Yongnuo on the Nikon system.. Not as easy unless you get the optional LCD flash controller, so you won't have to remember each button press.
|