[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Gaming PCs (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 2/4/2016 2:03:22 PM EDT
| So I have been going back and forth on getting into PC gaming. Currently I play on the XB1 console and have been yearning to play some of the PC only FPS games, like Red Orchestra and Squad. I mainly play FPS with some RPG thrown in every now and again. My first question would be, should I go with a laptop or desktop? I don't have the space to setup an area to play on a desktop with area for a keyboard but I'm sure there are ways around that. I would like to get a couple years out of the machine without having to upgrade items right away. Question 2, If a desktop is going to be the best bang for my buck, should I look at building or buying? And if building, what are some good resources to point me in the right direction? I do appreciate the help in getting started in the PC gaming world. |
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Desktop. Gaming laptops are overpriced for what you get and laptops under $1000 will not play AAA games very well at all. If you can fit an ITX desktop into your current space, then get that instead.
Building will give you the best value. Generally pre-builts come with a great processor, low end motherboard, slow HDD, low end GPU, and a shitty power supply. You can almost always get a better build for the same money by building yourself. YouTube has great build guides. Especially now. Pretty much only thing I used on my first build was YouTube and the guides then weren't as thorough. As for which parts to buy, you can ask here and/or over at: http://reddit.com/r/buildmeapc http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcforme |
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A desktop will be much less expensive. And - frankly - if you build it correctly it wont' take up any more room than a gaming laptop with external keyboard, monitor, and mouse.
By FPS are you talking COOP or PvP? If COOP FPS stuff (like Borderlands) you could just build a kickass gaming rig and hook it to your TV, playing with a controller. But you will not want to do that if you're playing PvP. |
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Desktop. Build it.
Go here: https://pcpartpicker.com/ You can view other people's build lists, you can build a list yourself and have other people comment on it and critique it. You can post your builds there to other sites like here or Reddit and let people critique it. Fantastic site. |
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Desktop, and build it. It's super easy. Seriously. I put mine together in a couple hours while watching a YouTube video explaining what to do step by step. There's no good reason whatsoever to buy a prebuilt gaming PC, IMO, and unless you really want/need the portability of a laptop, there's no real good reason for those either. |
| So would it be feasible to get a PC built sub $900 that can play AAA rated games and play PvP online? Or should I be looking at spending a little more? Ive been playing a lot of Rainbow Six Siege on XB1 here lately and I do play a little Fallout 4 occasionally. I would be picking up The Division once it is released as well. I just am trying to be realistic with my expectations as I do like nice graphics and textures in the games. |
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Quoted:
FYI - Scuttlebut is R6:Siege on PC is filled with Hackers. Lots of complaints about Ubi not doing much to solve the problem. I'm not up on current PC gaming hardware. There are a couple threads here that detail some builds that I think fit your price range. I loathe Ubisoft... That said, R6 Siege has been clean for me! @OP: Look into a shuttle (case, PSU, and Mobo) and get an i5 and 16GB of ram then slap a 970 in there. Shouldnt be too pricey and youll have a small quality box! |
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Quoted:
So would it be feasible to get a PC built sub $900 that can play AAA rated games and play PvP online? Or should I be looking at spending a little more? Ive been playing a lot of Rainbow Six Siege on XB1 here lately and I do play a little Fallout 4 occasionally. I would be picking up The Division once it is released as well. I just am trying to be realistic with my expectations as I do like nice graphics and textures in the games. Quoted:
So would it be feasible to get a PC built sub $900 that can play AAA rated games and play PvP online? Or should I be looking at spending a little more? Ive been playing a lot of Rainbow Six Siege on XB1 here lately and I do play a little Fallout 4 occasionally. I would be picking up The Division once it is released as well. I just am trying to be realistic with my expectations as I do like nice graphics and textures in the games. Ultra/1080p/60fps or High/1440p/60fps PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock B150M-ITX Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($78.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($34.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8GB Nitro Video Card ($309.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case: Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case ($32.99 @ Micro Center) Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC) Total: $864.77 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-05 01:57 EST-0500 i5 6500 is part of the latest Intel processor family. (Skylake) Great budget processor. Will be more than you need for a long time. Went 1x8 on RAM so you can upgrade to 16GB later if necessary. You said you have very little room so that is the point of the ITX case/mobo. 390 because currently its cheaper than the GTX 970 and outperforms it in high resolutions. High quality Semi-Modular PSU because building in a small case like this isn't as easy, especially if you have to manage a lot of non-modular cables you won't need. Windows 10 may not be always be a fan favorite, but it will allow for more future-proofing with your system. As of now DirectX 12 will be a Windows 10 exclusive. If you want a SSD, stick with a 120GB Sandisk SSD or 250GB Samsung 850 EVO based on what you can afford. Just avoid all others because some are actually slower than a HDD. (Kingston, Crucial, (except the BX100) ADATA) With a decent HDD like the WD Blue, shouldn't be that big of a deal. Not sure if you needed a mouse/keyboard included, but $20 should buy you the Cooler Master Bundle. It is decent enough to get started. Sure it isn't as nice as a $70 Logitech mouse and a mechanical keyboard, but it does the job. Still better than a controller. |
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I cant quote you because of the character limit on newer accounts. Awesome! Thank you for this! Can you make a recommendation for a monitor? Would you go with a 144hz or something lower? I may go with your build there! A user on reddit supplied me with this one as well, what do you think about it?
CPU Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor $199.98 @ OutletPC Motherboard Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $49.88 @ OutletPC Memory G.Skill Aegis 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory $34.99 @ Newegg Storage Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $46.89 @ OutletPC Video Card XFX Radeon R9 390 8GB Double Dissipation Video Card $274.99 @ Newegg Case Corsair SPEC-01 RED ATX Mid Tower Case $35.99 @ Newegg Power Supply Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply $44.99 @ Newegg Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-05 07:49 EST-0500 permalink |
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I cant quote you because of the character limit on newer accounts. Awesome! Thank you for this! Can you make a recommendation for a monitor? Would you go with a 144hz or something lower? I may go with your build there! A user on reddit supplied me with this one as well, what do you think about it? CPU Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor $199.98 @ OutletPC Motherboard Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $49.88 @ OutletPC Memory G.Skill Aegis 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory $34.99 @ Newegg Storage Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $46.89 @ OutletPC Video Card XFX Radeon R9 390 8GB Double Dissipation Video Card $274.99 @ Newegg Case Corsair SPEC-01 RED ATX Mid Tower Case $35.99 @ Newegg Power Supply Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply $44.99 @ Newegg Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-05 07:49 EST-0500 permalink I mean its quite a bit larger. I kind of thought the goal here was to make the tower small. lol Motherboard and case are fine though. I prefer Gigabyte over ASRock, but with a locked processor your motherboard choice doesn't quite matter as much. That is why my original build had an ASRock board. It was the cheapest ITX board available. Don't buy that power supply. Not sure why anyone would recommend that, but CX power supplies just aren't very good. Especially for builds with a powerful graphics card. It even says on Corsair's website it is only meant for "basic system builds and desktop PC computer upgrades." Considering how power hungry the 390 is, I wouldn't trust it. Here is one blowing up. 
XFX is a great company, but the Sapphire Nitro cooler is a lot better than the XFX. If you can spare the difference, it is well worth it. WD Blue drives have a lower failure rate than Seagate. Everything else seems to be about the same. As for monitors, it all goes down to what you can afford. Personally I prefer higher resolutions over higher refresh rate, but you may be different. |
| I really do appreciate you explaining these things for me! The size issue I am working around at the moment. I spoke with my girlfriend and she is alright with me putting a desk tucked in the corner of our living room to put the PC on so while a smaller package is very nice to have for me, its no longer a requirement. Would that change your suggestion or would you stick with the build you put together for me? |
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I really do appreciate you explaining these things for me! The size issue I am working around at the moment. I spoke with my girlfriend and she is alright with me putting a desk tucked in the corner of our living room to put the PC on so while a smaller package is very nice to have for me, its no longer a requirement. Would that change your suggestion or would you stick with the build you put together for me? If size is no issue you can go with a cheaper motherboard and nicer case if you want. No difference really. Larger cases are easier to work with though. (not as many tight fits) The motherboard recommended from Reddit is fine or you could go with an ATX board. Up to you really. Only thing you might want to consider is going for a motherboard with 4 RAM slots instead of 2. |
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Something like this then but with the power supply you have listed?
CPU Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor $174.89 @ OutletPC Motherboard MSI H81M-E34 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard $51.99 @ SuperBiiz Memory G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory $29.99 @ Newegg Storage Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $49.89 @ OutletPC Video Card MSI Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card $323.98 @ Newegg Case NZXT S340 (Black/Blue) ATX Mid Tower Case $66.99 @ SuperBiiz Power Supply EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply $59.99 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $757.72 |
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Something like this then but with the power supply you have listed? CPU Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor $174.89 @ OutletPC Motherboard MSI H81M-E34 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard $51.99 @ SuperBiiz Memory G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory $29.99 @ Newegg Storage Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $49.89 @ OutletPC Video Card MSI Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card $323.98 @ Newegg Case NZXT S340 (Black/Blue) ATX Mid Tower Case $66.99 @ SuperBiiz Power Supply EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply $59.99 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $757.72 That would be okay as well, but I don't think that mATX board has 4 RAM slots. Having 4 would allow for a future RAM upgrade. This one would be a bit better. Yeah I'd stick with the power supply I mentioned if you can. That one is a lot better than the CX power supply, but the NEX series isn't known for great build quality. Obviously the newer Skylake (i5 6500) processor is better, but there isn't really a big difference. If this saves you a little money, then go for it. You would only notice a small difference on CPU intensive games. Since this list doesn't have an OS, like I said I think you should definitely stick with Windows 10 unless you plan to use Linux I guess. |
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Okay, so this is one that I just put together. Would leaving $200-$250 for a monitor and keyboard/mouse get me decent enough equipment?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H DDR3 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($77.89 @ OutletPC) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($42.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8GB Nitro Video Card ($309.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Blue) ATX Mid Tower Case ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC) Total: $905.57 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-05 16:32 EST-0500 |
| Desktop. Laptop you might run into overheating problem. If you want an almost trouble free experience buy two hard drives. Put an OS in each one. One HD is for gaming only. The other HD is for general uses. The gaming HD should not have programs running in the background like anti virus. A lot of problems occur in PC gaming when the computer running a ton of software in the background. |
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I started out buying pre-builts and upgrading as needed. You can build one easy enough, but it was nice just having to figure out how to pop in a video card here, or a power supply there. I've been out of gaming for a few years, but this seems like a decent system for $800: Computer Processor & Memory:
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Quoted: So would it be feasible to get a PC built sub $900 that can play AAA rated games and play PvP online? Or should I be looking at spending a little more? Ive been playing a lot of Rainbow Six Siege on XB1 here lately and I do play a little Fallout 4 occasionally. I would be picking up The Division once it is released as well. I just am trying to be realistic with my expectations as I do like nice graphics and textures in the games. Also to answer your previous post, there is really no such thing as a gaming laptop. |
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Okay, so this is one that I just put together. Would leaving $200-$250 for a monitor and keyboard/mouse get me decent enough equipment? PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H DDR3 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($77.89 @ OutletPC) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($42.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8GB Nitro Video Card ($309.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Blue) ATX Mid Tower Case ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC) Total: $905.57 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-05 16:32 EST-0500 You will want to go with a motherboard that supports DDR4 RAM instead. DDR3 runs at higher voltages which could potentially damage Skylake processors. Can't 100% confirm that, but it shouldn't make a price difference anyway. |
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I started out buying pre-builts and upgrading as needed. You can build one easy enough, but it was nice just having to figure out how to pop in a video card here, or a power supply there. I've been out of gaming for a few years, but this seems like a decent system for $800: Computer Processor & Memory:
[ul] For $800 that is a giant turd tbh. That GPU is worse than the integrated graphics that comes with the Skylake processors. Like I said above, pre-builts come with a great CPU, low end motherboard (likely non-standard so you couldn't put it in a different case or upgrade certain parts), crappy HDD, low end GPU, and a shitty power supply that would have to be replaced in order to upgrade your graphics card. |
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Quoted: I started out buying pre-builts and upgrading as needed. You can build one easy enough, but it was nice just having to figure out how to pop in a video card here, or a power supply there. I've been out of gaming for a few years, but this seems like a decent system for $800: Computer Processor & Memory:
I feel that's a piece of shit for $800. GPU is woefully mismatched for the CPU, probably has a shit no name power supply, and tons of unnecessary bullshit bloatware installed by Dell to further bog it down. Seriously, you can do so much better yourself with $800. |
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Okay, this is what I could come up with..
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H170M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($89.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($52.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8GB Nitro Video Card ($308.98 @ Newegg) Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Blue) ATX Mid Tower Case ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC) Total: $926.76 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-06 10:56 EST-0500 |
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Just a thought...
Case: MSI Nightblade MI2-001BUS Barebone $299.99 CPU: Intel Core i5-6400 $199.98 Motherboard: Included in case Power Supply: Included in case: 350W Memory: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 1x8GB DDR4 2400 $40.99 Storage: SAMSUNG 850 EVO 2.5" 250GB $84.50 Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 960 OC 4GB $199.99 Operating System: Buy through your job or school for $20 (students get discounts on MS software and Windows aligned companies often get employee discounts). Total: $845.45 
$55 under budget. Room for getting a retail OS, larger SSD, another 8GB DDR4 module, or the fastest i5 processor. Might have more wiggle room if you shop around (I did not use PC part picker)
*The only kicker is video card upgrades will require a replacement PSU or another efficiency increase with the next generation of cards. Alternatively, there a slightly larger barebones case with a PSU that can do a 980ti for $100 more. It would need different memory as well but the rest is fine. That means upgrading to a 970 will cost you $200 over the $845 cost. Just to note, IMHO, do not waste your time/money with AMD GPUs right now. |
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Okay, this is what I could come up with.. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H170M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($89.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($52.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8GB Nitro Video Card ($308.98 @ Newegg) Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Blue) ATX Mid Tower Case ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC) Total: $926.76 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-06 10:56 EST-0500 Build looks good. If you want to save like $10-$15 there is cheaper RAM available, but it doesn't matter. Can't really do much better than this for around $900. |
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Quoted: Fair enough. Disregard that suggestion OP. I didn't mean to come across like a jerk or anything. Just that most prebuilts, especially the ones from big names like Dell, HP, etc., are less than optimal for gaming. They're in the business of selling PCs, not necessarily selling the best (or a better) PC for the job. They're catering (and maybe even preying) on folks who just don't know better and think it's hard and a pain in the ass to put together a rock solid, fast, stable and reliable gaming PC. Which it is not, by any means. Hell, if I can put one together and make it work, *anyone* can. |
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I didn't mean to come across like a jerk or anything. Just that most prebuilts, especially the ones from big names like Dell, HP, etc., are less than optimal for gaming. They're in the business of selling PCs, not necessarily selling the best (or a better) PC for the job. They're catering (and maybe even preying) on folks who just don't know better and think it's hard and a pain in the ass to put together a rock solid, fast, stable and reliable gaming PC. Which it is not, by any means. Hell, if I can put one together and make it work, *anyone* can.
Quoted:
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Fair enough. Disregard that suggestion OP. I didn't mean to come across like a jerk or anything. Just that most prebuilts, especially the ones from big names like Dell, HP, etc., are less than optimal for gaming. They're in the business of selling PCs, not necessarily selling the best (or a better) PC for the job. They're catering (and maybe even preying) on folks who just don't know better and think it's hard and a pain in the ass to put together a rock solid, fast, stable and reliable gaming PC. Which it is not, by any means. Hell, if I can put one together and make it work, *anyone* can.
Yeah it actually is really easy. The only hard part to any build is just installing an aftermarket cooler. I swear one time I spent 2 hours before just installing a CPU cooler.
If you're using a stock Intel cooler it is stupid easy though. Installing everything else is pretty self explanatory tbh. |
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Yeah it actually is really easy. The only hard part to any build is just installing an aftermarket cooler. I swear one time I spent 2 hours before just installing a CPU cooler.
If you're using a stock Intel cooler it is stupid easy though. Installing everything else is pretty self explanatory tbh. Quoted:
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Fair enough. Disregard that suggestion OP. I didn't mean to come across like a jerk or anything. Just that most prebuilts, especially the ones from big names like Dell, HP, etc., are less than optimal for gaming. They're in the business of selling PCs, not necessarily selling the best (or a better) PC for the job. They're catering (and maybe even preying) on folks who just don't know better and think it's hard and a pain in the ass to put together a rock solid, fast, stable and reliable gaming PC. Which it is not, by any means. Hell, if I can put one together and make it work, *anyone* can.
Yeah it actually is really easy. The only hard part to any build is just installing an aftermarket cooler. I swear one time I spent 2 hours before just installing a CPU cooler.
If you're using a stock Intel cooler it is stupid easy though. Installing everything else is pretty self explanatory tbh. At least now the brackets are standardized! I remember getting a water block with like 6 different brackets and another several sets of screws and standoffs and plastic-poppy-things for nearly every CPU socket! What a bloody mess! |
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Beat this:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI H110I Pro Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($74.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($68.99 @ Adorama) Storage: Crucial MX200 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Hitachi Travelstar 1TB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.74 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($324.99 @ B&H) Case: Fractal Design Core 500 Mini ITX Desktop Case ($59.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: SeaSonic 450W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.16 @ SuperBiiz) Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0 DVD/CD Writer ($14.89 @ OutletPC) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC) Total: $1040.57 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-06 17:34 EST-0500 |
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Quoted: I didn't mean to come across like a jerk or anything. Just that most prebuilts, especially the ones from big names like Dell, HP, etc., are less than optimal for gaming. They're in the business of selling PCs, not necessarily selling the best (or a better) PC for the job. They're catering (and maybe even preying) on folks who just don't know better and think it's hard and a pain in the ass to put together a rock solid, fast, stable and reliable gaming PC. Which it is not, by any means. Hell, if I can put one together and make it work, *anyone* can. Quoted: Quoted: Fair enough. Disregard that suggestion OP. I didn't mean to come across like a jerk or anything. Just that most prebuilts, especially the ones from big names like Dell, HP, etc., are less than optimal for gaming. They're in the business of selling PCs, not necessarily selling the best (or a better) PC for the job. They're catering (and maybe even preying) on folks who just don't know better and think it's hard and a pain in the ass to put together a rock solid, fast, stable and reliable gaming PC. Which it is not, by any means. Hell, if I can put one together and make it work, *anyone* can. No worries, I didn't take it that way at all. I'm out of touch on the latest stuff. I didn't realize the graphics card was that bad. (My last build had 6 gigs of RAM and was a monster at the time. ) |
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Im actually waiting on my board to finish a new build, my old build is. This runs a lot of games on high still i played the division beta flawlessly, witcher 3 on medium and a lot of other games. So remember you dont need the newest hardware.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($214.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard Memory: Mushkin Blackline 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($67.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 770 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($278.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case: Thermaltake Commander G41 ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair CSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($72.98 @ Newegg) Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($15.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC) Total: $858.65 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-06 21:23 EST-0500 And my new build, Itll be a decent upgrade PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($224.95 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($102.88 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI Z97-GAMING 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($144.88 @ OutletPC) Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($63.99 @ SuperBiiz) Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($70.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card ($649.99 @ B&H) Case: Corsair Vengeance C70 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair RM 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ Amazon) Optical Drive: Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($54.98 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC) Total: $1702.58 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-06 21:26 EST-0500 |
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Im actually waiting on my board to finish a new build, my old build is. This runs a lot of games on high still i played the division beta flawlessly, witcher 3 on medium and a lot of other games. So remember you dont need the newest hardware. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($214.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard Memory: Mushkin Blackline 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($67.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 770 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($278.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case: Thermaltake Commander G41 ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair CSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($72.98 @ Newegg) Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($15.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC) Total: $858.65 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-06 21:23 EST-0500 And my new build, Itll be a decent upgrade PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($224.95 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($102.88 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI Z97-GAMING 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($144.88 @ OutletPC) Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($63.99 @ SuperBiiz) Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($70.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card ($649.99 @ B&H) Case: Corsair Vengeance C70 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair RM 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ Amazon) Optical Drive: Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($54.98 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC) Total: $1702.58 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-06 21:26 EST-0500 That isn't really a big upgrade for your CPU tbh. The 2500K is still very capable. |
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This is better :) PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI H110I Pro Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($74.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($66.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($313.98 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Core 500 Mini ITX Desktop Case ($59.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($55.99 @ SuperBiiz) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($88.08 @ Amazon) Total: $994.78 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-07 05:09 EST-0500 Don't need an optical drive these days tbh. Quoted:
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Beat this: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI H110I Pro Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($74.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($68.99 @ Adorama) Storage: Crucial MX200 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Hitachi Travelstar 1TB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.74 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($324.99 @ B&H) Case: Fractal Design Core 500 Mini ITX Desktop Case ($59.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: SeaSonic 450W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.16 @ SuperBiiz) Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0 DVD/CD Writer ($14.89 @ OutletPC) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC) Total: $1040.57 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-06 17:34 EST-0500 This is better :) PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI H110I Pro Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($74.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($66.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($313.98 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Core 500 Mini ITX Desktop Case ($59.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($55.99 @ SuperBiiz) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($88.08 @ Amazon) Total: $994.78 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-07 05:09 EST-0500 Don't need an optical drive these days tbh. I wouldn't go with that power supply. Not just because it is a little underpowered, but also because it is non-modular. Trying to stuff the minimum number of cables you actually need into an ITX case is bad enough, but having to cram a bunch of extra ones you aren't even using in there is a royal pain. I really wish manufacturers would make full size form factor power supplies for mini-ITX cases, i.e. shortened cables and maybe even a half height form factor. |
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I wouldn't go with that power supply. Not just because it is a little underpowered, but also because it is non-modular. Trying to stuff the minimum number of cables you actually need into an ITX case is bad enough, but having to cram a bunch of extra ones you aren't even using in there is a royal pain. I really wish manufacturers would make full size form factor power supplies for mini-ITX cases, i.e. shortened cables and maybe even a half height form factor. Quoted:
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Beat this: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI H110I Pro Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($74.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($68.99 @ Adorama) Storage: Crucial MX200 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Hitachi Travelstar 1TB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.74 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($324.99 @ B&H) Case: Fractal Design Core 500 Mini ITX Desktop Case ($59.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: SeaSonic 450W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.16 @ SuperBiiz) Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0 DVD/CD Writer ($14.89 @ OutletPC) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC) Total: $1040.57 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-06 17:34 EST-0500 This is better :) PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI H110I Pro Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($74.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($66.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($313.98 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Core 500 Mini ITX Desktop Case ($59.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($55.99 @ SuperBiiz) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($88.08 @ Amazon) Total: $994.78 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-07 05:09 EST-0500 Don't need an optical drive these days tbh. I wouldn't go with that power supply. Not just because it is a little underpowered, but also because it is non-modular. Trying to stuff the minimum number of cables you actually need into an ITX case is bad enough, but having to cram a bunch of extra ones you aren't even using in there is a royal pain. I really wish manufacturers would make full size form factor power supplies for mini-ITX cases, i.e. shortened cables and maybe even a half height form factor. It can and has been done multiple times. Not really a big deal IMO. If you can afford it, I agree to go with a quality modular unit. However, I would take this quality non-modular unit over any other power supply in this price range. The next step up in modular units would be the EVGA 650 GQ and its about $15-$20 more. This power supply itself is far from under-powered though. This is a quality 520w unit that can handle any modern single GPU setup, much less a GTX 970 which already has a really low TDP. A lot more than you would need actually. |
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The 970 is overrated and will become obsolete when the next generation of video cards comes out in three months or so. 970 3.5 gb of ram is a joke for the price you are paying. Get a 390 with 8gb or wait for the next generation which will come with 8 to 16gb. The 970 is not future proof. Spend the extra money and get at least 16gb of Ddr4 ram. The more ram the better because it does help against memory leaks that is common in unpatched AAA games. Do not get ddr3 because they are not future proof. Ddr3 have passed their life cycle and will be phased out. Ddr4 is designed for multi core CPU. My current rig have 20gb of ddr3. Next major upgrade will have at least 32gb of ddr4. I'm aiming for 64gb. You need at least 750w PSU. Anything below it will not be future proof. A good power supply will last for 5 to 10 years. So spending the extra money will save you from needing to upgrade yor power supply in future build. |
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The 970 is overrated and will become obsolete when the next generation of video cards comes out in three months or so. 970 3.5 gb of ram is a joke for the price you are paying. Get a 390 with 8gb or wait for the next generation which will come with 8 to 16gb. The 970 is no future proof. Spend the extra money and get at least 16gb of Ddr4 ram. The more ram the better because it does help against memory leaks that is common in unpatched AAA games. Do not get ddr3 because they are not future proof. Ddr3 have passed their life cycle and will be phased out. Ddr4 is designed for multi core CPU. My current rig have 20gb of ddr3. Next major upgrade will have at least 32gb of ddr4. I'm aiming for 64gb. You need at least 750w PSU. Anything below it will not be future proof. A good power supply will last for 5 to 10 years. So spending the extra money will save you from needing to upgrade yor power supply in future build. I agree the 390 is better for the price point. That is why I recommended it. However the 390 will be very obsolete before we actually start needing 8GB of VRAM... Especially for 1080p. In general you do not need 32GB of RAM. Even more is completely unnecessary. 8GB is enough for any gaming PC right now and 16GB is just a nice upgrade for "future-proofing." For gaming, there is only a performance difference with DDR3 and DDR4 while using integrated graphics. It makes zero difference while using a graphics card. Most people will never need a 750w unit. You just need a quality unit. In general it is recommended to buy a good 650w power supply for future proofing. However, 500w is more than enough for most people. Especially considering the fact that components are becoming more and more efficient as time goes on. |
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Quoted: I agree the 390 is better for the price point. That is why I recommended it. However the 390 will be very obsolete before we actually start needing 8GB of VRAM... Especially for 1080p. In general you do not need 32GB of RAM. Even more is completely unnecessary. 8GB is enough for any gaming PC right now and 16GB is just a nice upgrade for "future-proofing." For gaming, there is only a performance difference with DDR3 and DDR4 while using integrated graphics. It makes zero difference while using a graphics card. Most people will never need a 750w unit. You just need a quality unit. In general it is recommended to buy a good 650w power supply for future proofing. However, 500w is more than enough for most people. Especially considering the fact that components are becoming more and more efficient as time goes on. Quoted: Quoted: The 970 is overrated and will become obsolete when the next generation of video cards comes out in three months or so. 970 3.5 gb of ram is a joke for the price you are paying. Get a 390 with 8gb or wait for the next generation which will come with 8 to 16gb. The 970 is no future proof. Spend the extra money and get at least 16gb of Ddr4 ram. The more ram the better because it does help against memory leaks that is common in unpatched AAA games. Do not get ddr3 because they are not future proof. Ddr3 have passed their life cycle and will be phased out. Ddr4 is designed for multi core CPU. My current rig have 20gb of ddr3. Next major upgrade will have at least 32gb of ddr4. I'm aiming for 64gb. You need at least 750w PSU. Anything below it will not be future proof. A good power supply will last for 5 to 10 years. So spending the extra money will save you from needing to upgrade yor power supply in future build. I agree the 390 is better for the price point. That is why I recommended it. However the 390 will be very obsolete before we actually start needing 8GB of VRAM... Especially for 1080p. In general you do not need 32GB of RAM. Even more is completely unnecessary. 8GB is enough for any gaming PC right now and 16GB is just a nice upgrade for "future-proofing." For gaming, there is only a performance difference with DDR3 and DDR4 while using integrated graphics. It makes zero difference while using a graphics card. Most people will never need a 750w unit. You just need a quality unit. In general it is recommended to buy a good 650w power supply for future proofing. However, 500w is more than enough for most people. Especially considering the fact that components are becoming more and more efficient as time goes on. I don't play at 1080 low resolution. Higher vram means better textures. Better textures means better graphics. Games already use 8gb like sleeping dogs free high texture dlc (pc only). That game is over 3 years old. Next generation of high end video cards will come with 16gb of vram so I have no doubt almost every future AAA games will used all my 8gb. More rams means better protection against memory leaks which is very common in new AAA games release. You will have less crashes and increase stability. I personally do not like my game to crash just before the checkpoint. That's is why I invest money on a HD for just gaming and more RAM. My next major upgrade (end of 2016 or 2017) will probably run around $500-600. I will be replacing 3 parts, cpu (intel or amd), motherboard (asrock), and ram (32gb or 64gb). My old 650W was replaced a couple months back with a 1050w gold. The 650W lasted over 8 years. It finally died because it couldn't handle my 390 and all of my other hardwares. I got every pennies out of my 650W. 8 years of future proof was worth the extra money. Also spend the extra money on a good case. My last case lasted me over 15 years. |
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I don't play at 1080 low resolution. Higher vram means better textures. Better textures means better graphics. Games already use 8gb like sleeping dogs free high texture dlc (pc only). That game is over 3 years old. Next generation of high end video cards will come with 16gb of vram so I have no doubt almost every future AAA games will used all my 8gb. More rams means better protection against memory leaks which is very common in new AAA games release. You will have less crashes and increase stability. I personally do not like my game to crash just before the checkpoint. That's is why I invest money on a HD for just gaming and more RAM. My next major upgrade (end of 2016 or 2017) will probably run around $500-600. I will be replacing 3 parts, cpu (intel or amd), motherboard (asrock), and ram (32gb or 64gb). My old 650W was replaced a couple months back with a 1050w gold. The 650W lasted over 8 years. It finally died because it couldn't handle my 390 and all of my other hardwares. I got every pennies out of my 650W. 8 years of future proof was worth the extra money. Also spend the extra money on a good case. My last case lasted me over 15 years. Quoted:
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The 970 is overrated and will become obsolete when the next generation of video cards comes out in three months or so. 970 3.5 gb of ram is a joke for the price you are paying. Get a 390 with 8gb or wait for the next generation which will come with 8 to 16gb. The 970 is no future proof. Spend the extra money and get at least 16gb of Ddr4 ram. The more ram the better because it does help against memory leaks that is common in unpatched AAA games. Do not get ddr3 because they are not future proof. Ddr3 have passed their life cycle and will be phased out. Ddr4 is designed for multi core CPU. My current rig have 20gb of ddr3. Next major upgrade will have at least 32gb of ddr4. I'm aiming for 64gb. You need at least 750w PSU. Anything below it will not be future proof. A good power supply will last for 5 to 10 years. So spending the extra money will save you from needing to upgrade yor power supply in future build. I agree the 390 is better for the price point. That is why I recommended it. However the 390 will be very obsolete before we actually start needing 8GB of VRAM... Especially for 1080p. In general you do not need 32GB of RAM. Even more is completely unnecessary. 8GB is enough for any gaming PC right now and 16GB is just a nice upgrade for "future-proofing." For gaming, there is only a performance difference with DDR3 and DDR4 while using integrated graphics. It makes zero difference while using a graphics card. Most people will never need a 750w unit. You just need a quality unit. In general it is recommended to buy a good 650w power supply for future proofing. However, 500w is more than enough for most people. Especially considering the fact that components are becoming more and more efficient as time goes on. I don't play at 1080 low resolution. Higher vram means better textures. Better textures means better graphics. Games already use 8gb like sleeping dogs free high texture dlc (pc only). That game is over 3 years old. Next generation of high end video cards will come with 16gb of vram so I have no doubt almost every future AAA games will used all my 8gb. More rams means better protection against memory leaks which is very common in new AAA games release. You will have less crashes and increase stability. I personally do not like my game to crash just before the checkpoint. That's is why I invest money on a HD for just gaming and more RAM. My next major upgrade (end of 2016 or 2017) will probably run around $500-600. I will be replacing 3 parts, cpu (intel or amd), motherboard (asrock), and ram (32gb or 64gb). My old 650W was replaced a couple months back with a 1050w gold. The 650W lasted over 8 years. It finally died because it couldn't handle my 390 and all of my other hardwares. I got every pennies out of my 650W. 8 years of future proof was worth the extra money. Also spend the extra money on a good case. My last case lasted me over 15 years. You just don't need anywhere near 32GB of RAM in a gaming PC, much less 64GB. At 4K and higher resolutions the max you will ever see used right now is about 9-10GB of RAM. The max you would even be able to use as a consumer right now would be around 22-24GB of RAM while doing heavy video editing. Sure for higher resolutions the extra VRAM is more useful, but still there isn't really much that will actually use 8GB of VRAM. Even at 4K. 1050w is really excessive. A good 650w is way more than enough for a single 390. 
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You just don't need anywhere near 32GB of RAM in a gaming PC, much less 64GB. At 4K and higher resolutions the max you will ever see used right now is about 9-10GB of RAM. The max you would even be able to use as a consumer right now would be around 22-24GB of RAM while doing heavy video editing. Sure for higher resolutions the extra VRAM is more useful, but still there isn't really much that will actually use 8GB of VRAM. Even at 4K. 1050w is really excessive. A good 650w is way more than enough for a single 390. Quoted:
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The 970 is overrated and will become obsolete when the next generation of video cards comes out in three months or so. 970 3.5 gb of ram is a joke for the price you are paying. Get a 390 with 8gb or wait for the next generation which will come with 8 to 16gb. The 970 is no future proof. Spend the extra money and get at least 16gb of Ddr4 ram. The more ram the better because it does help against memory leaks that is common in unpatched AAA games. Do not get ddr3 because they are not future proof. Ddr3 have passed their life cycle and will be phased out. Ddr4 is designed for multi core CPU. My current rig have 20gb of ddr3. Next major upgrade will have at least 32gb of ddr4. I'm aiming for 64gb. You need at least 750w PSU. Anything below it will not be future proof. A good power supply will last for 5 to 10 years. So spending the extra money will save you from needing to upgrade yor power supply in future build. I agree the 390 is better for the price point. That is why I recommended it. However the 390 will be very obsolete before we actually start needing 8GB of VRAM... Especially for 1080p. In general you do not need 32GB of RAM. Even more is completely unnecessary. 8GB is enough for any gaming PC right now and 16GB is just a nice upgrade for "future-proofing." For gaming, there is only a performance difference with DDR3 and DDR4 while using integrated graphics. It makes zero difference while using a graphics card. Most people will never need a 750w unit. You just need a quality unit. In general it is recommended to buy a good 650w power supply for future proofing. However, 500w is more than enough for most people. Especially considering the fact that components are becoming more and more efficient as time goes on. I don't play at 1080 low resolution. Higher vram means better textures. Better textures means better graphics. Games already use 8gb like sleeping dogs free high texture dlc (pc only). That game is over 3 years old. Next generation of high end video cards will come with 16gb of vram so I have no doubt almost every future AAA games will used all my 8gb. More rams means better protection against memory leaks which is very common in new AAA games release. You will have less crashes and increase stability. I personally do not like my game to crash just before the checkpoint. That's is why I invest money on a HD for just gaming and more RAM. My next major upgrade (end of 2016 or 2017) will probably run around $500-600. I will be replacing 3 parts, cpu (intel or amd), motherboard (asrock), and ram (32gb or 64gb). My old 650W was replaced a couple months back with a 1050w gold. The 650W lasted over 8 years. It finally died because it couldn't handle my 390 and all of my other hardwares. I got every pennies out of my 650W. 8 years of future proof was worth the extra money. Also spend the extra money on a good case. My last case lasted me over 15 years. You just don't need anywhere near 32GB of RAM in a gaming PC, much less 64GB. At 4K and higher resolutions the max you will ever see used right now is about 9-10GB of RAM. The max you would even be able to use as a consumer right now would be around 22-24GB of RAM while doing heavy video editing. Sure for higher resolutions the extra VRAM is more useful, but still there isn't really much that will actually use 8GB of VRAM. Even at 4K. 1050w is really excessive. A good 650w is way more than enough for a single 390. Computerbro!.. You need bigger numbers. Your computer has to at least go to 11! |
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It can and has been done multiple times. Not really a big deal IMO. If you can afford it, I agree to go with a quality modular unit. However, I would take this quality non-modular unit over any other power supply in this price range. The next step up in modular units would be the EVGA 650 GQ and its about $15-$20 more. This power supply itself is far from under-powered though. This is a quality 520w unit that can handle any modern single GPU setup, much less a GTX 970 which already has a really low TDP. A lot more than you would need actually. Quoted:
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Beat this: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI H110I Pro Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($74.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($68.99 @ Adorama) Storage: Crucial MX200 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Hitachi Travelstar 1TB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.74 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($324.99 @ B&H) Case: Fractal Design Core 500 Mini ITX Desktop Case ($59.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: SeaSonic 450W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.16 @ SuperBiiz) Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0 DVD/CD Writer ($14.89 @ OutletPC) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC) Total: $1040.57 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-06 17:34 EST-0500 This is better :) PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI H110I Pro Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($74.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($66.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($313.98 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Core 500 Mini ITX Desktop Case ($59.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($55.99 @ SuperBiiz) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($88.08 @ Amazon) Total: $994.78 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-07 05:09 EST-0500 Don't need an optical drive these days tbh. I wouldn't go with that power supply. Not just because it is a little underpowered, but also because it is non-modular. Trying to stuff the minimum number of cables you actually need into an ITX case is bad enough, but having to cram a bunch of extra ones you aren't even using in there is a royal pain. I really wish manufacturers would make full size form factor power supplies for mini-ITX cases, i.e. shortened cables and maybe even a half height form factor. It can and has been done multiple times. Not really a big deal IMO. If you can afford it, I agree to go with a quality modular unit. However, I would take this quality non-modular unit over any other power supply in this price range. The next step up in modular units would be the EVGA 650 GQ and its about $15-$20 more. This power supply itself is far from under-powered though. This is a quality 520w unit that can handle any modern single GPU setup, much less a GTX 970 which already has a really low TDP. A lot more than you would need actually. It being a bronze rated PSU that is way over provisioned is a problem. At idle the power efficiency will tank for that big a PSU, and that small amount of equipment. Plus it only has 1 8-pin and 1 6 pin, whereas the one I selected has 2 8-pin, and a minimal amount of connectors which will perfectly suit a Mini-ITX build. I went with the 7.2k RPM 2.5" HDD for reduced noise and power consumption, since there is not going to be much in the way of sound isolation material in a Mini-ITX build, plus it takes up less space. If that isn't a concern then money can be saved. I opted for Crucial out of personal preference, but I'd take these over the Ares kit if I was going with Gskill http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f42133c15d16gnt. Video card, either is fine. Down to personal preference and what color scheme he'd rather see through the grill on the out side of his case. I typically don't like EVGA especially after they pulled this shit http://www.eteknix.com/evga-gtx-970-feature-manufacturing-defect/. Again, I do admit to having a prejudice there. Plus I refuse to skip having an optical drive. |
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It being a bronze rated PSU that is way over provisioned is a problem. At idle the power efficiency will tank for that big a PSU, and that small amount of equipment. Plus it only has 1 8-pin and 1 6 pin, whereas the one I selected has 2 8-pin, and a minimal amount of connectors which will perfectly suit a Mini-ITX build. I went with the 7.2k RPM 2.5" HDD for reduced noise and power consumption, since there is not going to be much in the way of sound isolation material in a Mini-ITX build, plus it takes up less space. If that isn't a concern then money can be saved. I opted for Crucial out of personal preference, but I'd take these over the Ares kit if I was going with Gskill http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f42133c15d16gnt. Video card, either is fine. Down to personal preference and what color scheme he'd rather see through the grill on the out side of his case. I typically don't like EVGA especially after they pulled this shit http://www.eteknix.com/evga-gtx-970-feature-manufacturing-defect/. Again, I do admit to having a prejudice there. Plus I refuse to skip having an optical drive. Efficiency rating has nothing to do with quality. This bronze rated unit is better and more efficient than a lot of gold rated units from other brands. Sure you get 1 6+2 pin and 1 6 pin connector, but I really don't see that as an issue tbh. As for the extra juice, it is for future-proofing. Who is to say that in a few years you wouldn't want to add a beefier GPU? After all the 970 is almost 2 years old now. Going with a laptop hard drive just doesn't make sense to me. Even if it is just a storage drive, I'd rather have a one inch thicker hard drive that will have less issues. Especially since a higher quality one is $10 less. The WD Blue isn't even loud either tbh. Power consumption from a HDD makes pretty much no difference on either power supply. The 850 EVO is quite a bit faster than the MX200 and is even cheaper. Never trust a single brand. Even the best brands can make a shitty product. That would be the MX200 and BX200. Both are actually slower than the older BX100 in some tests. Fucking joke. I switched the RAM for cost. You don't need flashy RAM when you can't even see it and it doesn't have any effect on performance anyway. GPU was simply to save money as well. EVGA has probably the best customer service in the business and there is nothing wrong with their ACX cooler. That article is full of fuck. Meh personal preference I guess, but I mean there isn't really anything you need an optical drive for these days tbh. |
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Its a great 1080p monitor. Low input lag and capable of 144Hz. Only thing you could ask for is FreeSync. However, with the R9 390 you do have the horsepower to go for a higher resolution like 1440p if you wanted. Guess it depends on the games you play. If you plan to seriously play games like CS:GO, I'd say to easily go for 144Hz over a higher resolution. If you plan to just casually play games with friends or by yourself, go with a higher resolution with the sacrifice of a lower refresh rate. Both would be about the same price. |
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Quoted:
Efficiency rating has nothing to do with quality. This bronze rated unit is better and more efficient than a lot of gold rated units from other brands. Sure you get 1 6+2 pin and 1 6 pin connector, but I really don't see that as an issue tbh. As for the extra juice, it is for future-proofing. Who is to say that in a few years you wouldn't want to add a beefier GPU? After all the 970 is almost 2 years old now. Quoted:
Efficiency rating has nothing to do with quality. This bronze rated unit is better and more efficient than a lot of gold rated units from other brands. Sure you get 1 6+2 pin and 1 6 pin connector, but I really don't see that as an issue tbh. As for the extra juice, it is for future-proofing. Who is to say that in a few years you wouldn't want to add a beefier GPU? After all the 970 is almost 2 years old now. The fewer cables it has is also a godsend for any Mini-ITX build. It has enough connectors for anything that could fit in the case, and no more else. No wasted cable clutter. Going with a laptop hard drive just doesn't make sense to me. Even if it is just a storage drive, I'd rather have a one inch thicker hard drive that will have less issues. Especially since a higher quality one is $10 less. The WD Blue isn't even loud either tbh. Power consumption from a HDD makes pretty much no difference on either power supply. The only thing I will definitively say about HDDs is avoid Seagate like the plague. The 850 EVO is quite a bit faster than the MX200 and is even cheaper. Never trust a single brand. Even the best brands can make a shitty product. That would be the MX200 and BX200. Both are actually slower than the older BX100 in some tests. Fucking joke. The MX200's controller features hardware AES-256 encryption, and it has their RAIN technology to guard against flash cell failures. The thing was meant to be built like a brick shithouse, not to win a benchmark. The BX100 and MX200 both came out at the same time, the ever shitty BX200 came out later. The performance differences between the MX200 and BX100 will never be noticed in a game. The BX200 can be embarrassed by a 1TB raptor from time to time. I switched the RAM for cost. You don't need flashy RAM when you can't even see it and it doesn't have any effect on performance anyway. GPU was simply to save money as well. EVGA has probably the best customer service in the business and there is nothing wrong with their ACX cooler. That article is full of fuck. It is nice that they have the customer service, but I'd rather never have to use it in the first place. I'll let people decide for themselves if they want the best service in the business or spring for the better hardware with good customer service. I just avoid ASUS since their customer service is downright appalling. They can have good hardware, but I never will touch them for that reason alone. This is why I can understand that people can prefer EVGA. I have no problems with them when they are using reference designs, because it takes a special kind of retard to fuck those up. I even have one to "match" my launch MSI GTX980, since MSI discontinued making reference versions. The Benq monitor is fine for budget. BenQ is a great brand. My complaint is that it is a TN panel, but nobody makes a 1080p 120hz+ IPS panel, so there really is no choice about that in that market segment. |
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Quoted:
I said nothing about quality, they are both Seasonic, neither is going to be shit quality. What I said was the effect of wasting power from an oversized PSU. You want to keep the power envelope within 30-80% load of the maximum wattage of the PSU. You could run that setup with a R9-Fury and still not need a bigger PSU, and that is saying something regarding that space heater. I said either method is fine. My concern was noise, and I have learned over the years that some peoples' definition of quite is an air siren to me. I approach everything from the angle of maximum silence, and the reduced vibrations from 2.5" platter drives is one such way of going about it. The decreased power usage was a bonus. As you mention better quality, I find that hard to believe. There is a reason that WD bought out Hitachi, and it all had to do with their enterprise efforts being not quite close enough. Hitachi proper drives still retain the reliability crown. This is why WD pushes Hitachi's drives for enterprise, especially their Helium filled ones. I have nothing against WD, I just don't recognize them as being better, and neither has any sample size proved otherwise. This will change as the tech further gets integrated, but they've been slower than molasses about doing it. The only thing I will definitively say about HDDs is avoid Seagate like the plague. Sigh, the joke is the TLC NAND in the EVO series, and the severe voltage drift that results from it. Samsung's "fix" for their 840EVO does not work, and their "fix" for the 850 EVO lineup was to go back to 40nm from 19nm for the TLC NAND. All that will do is slightly extend the time that leakage occurs over. That right there is a fucking joke. If you go Samsung you have to get the Pro series which are excellent but pricey. Winning a benchmark today is easy, but winning one a year from now on an SSD is far from it. TLC-NAND is no where near ready for prime time, and should be avoided. The MX200's controller features hardware AES-256 encryption, and it has their RAIN technology to guard against flash cell failures. The thing was meant to be built like a brick shithouse, not to win a benchmark. The BX100 and MX200 both came out at the same time, the ever shitty BX200 came out later. The performance differences between the MX200 and BX100 will never be noticed in a game. The BX200 can be embarrassed by a 1TB raptor from time to time. Did you even look at what I posted? Both sticks I linked to are bare sticks with no heatspreaders. That is the definition of non-flashy. The 2nd one was the cheapest out of anything posted. Except it wasn't. All launch GTX-970 ACX 2.0s shipped with only 2 of the 3 heatpipes coming into contact with the GPU die. The cards thus made more noise, even in all the review samples where they made more noise than reference 980s. Their new revision ACX 2.0+ cards have fixed this. That's why anyone can buy one now and not have the original set of problems. The ACX 2.0 was phased out for the 2.0+. It is nice that they have the customer service, but I'd rather never have to use it in the first place. I'll let people decide for themselves if they want the best service in the business or spring for the better hardware with good customer service. I just avoid ASUS since their customer service is downright appalling. They can have good hardware, but I never will touch them for that reason alone. This is why I can understand that people can prefer EVGA. I have no problems with them when they are using reference designs, because it takes a special kind of retard to fuck those up. I even have one to "match" my launch MSI GTX980, since MSI discontinued making reference versions. The Benq monitor is fine for budget. BenQ is a great brand. My complaint is that it is a TN panel, but nobody makes a 1080p 120hz+ IPS panel, so there really is no choice about that in that market segment. Right, and I agree it is overkill for a GTX 970. However, it is far from overkill if you added a beefier GPU in the future. I don't know about you, but I wouldn't particularly want to use a R9 Fury on a 450w PSU for 24/7 use. As you can see here, the S12 handles low loads with 80% efficiency. Will have no issues like what you are talking about here. I agree Seagate should be avoided, mostly on their HDDs above 1TB. The 1TB Barracuda doesn't seem to have as many issues as its bigger brothers. Forget the 840 EVO. Yes we all know it had issues where it would get slower and slower over time. The 850 EVO does not suffer from the same problems the 840 did. Period. The 850 EVO has pretty much the best price/performance over any other 250GB SSD on the market right now. That is why it is about the most recommended SSD across the board. I suggest you read some reviews of the 850 EVO. There are no issues with it as mentioned in those links. AnandTech, TweakTown. Also, Samsung warranties the 850 EVO for a full 5 years. That is pretty damn good for a SSD. Certainly better than the MX200's 3 year warranty. My mistake on the RAM. Was looking at the RAM in your original build.
Noise problem was fixed a long time ago. ACX cooler is perfectly fine. Its a cooler design meant for high TDP cards on an extremely low TDP card. Sure it was improved, but there was nothing really wrong with the ACX. Certainly nothing to avoid EVGA as a brand for. |
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Quoted:Forget the 840 EVO. Yes we all know it had issues where it would get slower and slower over time. The 850 EVO does not suffer from the same problems the 840 did. Period.
The 850 EVO has pretty much the best price/performance over any other 250GB SSD on the market right now. That is why it is about the most recommended SSD across the board. I suggest you read some reviews of the 850 EVO. There are no issues with it as mentioned in those links. AnandTech, TweakTown. Also, Samsung warranties the 850 EVO for a full 5 years. That is pretty damn good for a SSD. Certainly better than the MX200's 3 year warranty. This is how the voltage states of Various SSDs work: SLC: 2x voltage states = 0: (0v), 1: (100%) MLC : 4x voltage states = 0: (0v), 1: (33%), 2: (66%), 3: (100%) TLC : 8x voltage states = 0: (0v), 1: (14%), 2: (28%), 3: (43%), 4: (57%), 5: (71%), 6: (86%), 7: (100%) As leakage occurs and there is a drop of voltage of lets say 11%. For MLC going from state 3's 100% to 89% still keeps it a large amount away from being close to state 2's 66%. Thus when the controller does its ECC pass it does not waste time to classify it as state 3. Now apply this situation to TLC and state 7's 100% down to again 89%. This is much closer to state 6 than it is state 7 and ECC has to account for the fact that it is still above state 6 and is in actually state7. This is where the slow down is experienced for stale data during reads. Needless to say if the voltage drop was 14% the data would be toast, and there is even a little bit of room for rounding errors but that is even less likely than outright data loss. That's right, TLC is entirely ill suited for archival purposes, we can go ahead and safely say that now. Samsung can not just ignore fucking physics and make flawless TLC blessed by Allah's beloved male goat. All they could do to slow down leakage was to increase the manufacturing node size and do it with 3d-NAND structuring. The reason why is easy enough to explain, the bigger the node size the slower leakage occurs. The 840 EVOs were 19nm and can experience the slowdown from sitting on a shelf unpowered within 8 weeks. The regular 840 series was done on a 21nm process and takes a couple of months for sure. Increasing the process to 40nm, that's a damn big jump, and it wouldn't surprise me to see the issues pop up within 2 years of use, but it will happen eventually. TLC and its infamous leakage is why Apple stopped using it for their iPhone 6 series. As to why you will see a lot of people buying the 850 EVO, if people were good at making informed decisions Bose and Beats would have died on the spot, and Intel would have been facing financial troubles during the Socket A days. Popularity rarely equals quality, it equals marketing. People see the better benchmarks and care not one iota about the other factors behind a products quality. As to the performance differences, outside of the rather out of the ordinary capture tests for the following, do you ever truly believe you would notice the difference between any decent SSD on the market which is still constrained by SATA 3? http://www.storagereview.com/crucial_mx200_ssd_review For the warranty issue, at one time Corsair's PSUs made by CWT were offered with a 5 year warranty, while Seasonic had less than that. Does that mean the coil whine plague unleashed by Corsair was by any measure more reliable than anything Seasonic offered? No. Has Craftsman been worth buying for the past decade, nope. Increasing the warranty is also marketing at the end of the day. Even OCZ increased the warranties on their data traps. That didn't make them fail proof. |
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Quoted:
It is not just the 840 EVO, it is any drive using TLC NAND of any form including the likes of the BX200. First thing is ALL SSDs leak, the following will explain why TLC is the problem child. This is how the voltage states of Various SSDs work: SLC: 2x voltage states = 0: (0v), 1: (100%) MLC : 4x voltage states = 0: (0v), 1: (33%), 2: (66%), 3: (100%) TLC : 8x voltage states = 0: (0v), 1: (14%), 2: (28%), 3: (43%), 4: (57%), 5: (71%), 6: (86%), 7: (100%) As leakage occurs and there is a drop of voltage of lets say 11%. For MLC going from state 3's 100% to 89% still keeps it a large amount away from being close to state 2's 66%. Thus when the controller does its ECC pass it does not waste time to classify it as state 3. Now apply this situation to TLC and state 7's 100% down to again 89%. This is much closer to state 6 than it is state 7 and ECC has to account for the fact that it is still above state 6 and is in actually state7. This is where the slow down is experienced for stale data during reads. Needless to say if the voltage drop was 14% the data would be toast, and there is even a little bit of room for rounding errors but that is even less likely than outright data loss. That's right, TLC is entirely ill suited for archival purposes, we can go ahead and safely say that now. Samsung can not just ignore fucking physics and make flawless TLC blessed by Allah's beloved male goat. All they could do to slow down leakage was to increase the manufacturing node size and do it with 3d-NAND structuring. The reason why is easy enough to explain, the bigger the node size the slower leakage occurs. The 840 EVOs were 19nm and can experience the slowdown from sitting on a shelf unpowered within 8 weeks. The regular 840 series was done on a 21nm process and takes a couple of months for sure. Increasing the process to 40nm, that's a damn big jump, and it wouldn't surprise me to see the issues pop up within 2 years of use, but it will happen eventually. TLC and its infamous leakage is why Apple stopped using it for their iPhone 6 series. As to why you will see a lot of people buying the 850 EVO, if people were good at making informed decisions Bose and Beats would have died on the spot, and Intel would have been facing financial troubles during the Socket A days. Popularity rarely equals quality, it equals marketing. People see the better benchmarks and care not one iota about the other factors behind a products quality. As to the performance differences, outside of the rather out of the ordinary capture tests for the following, do you ever truly believe you would notice the difference between any decent SSD on the market which is still constrained by SATA 3? http://www.storagereview.com/crucial_mx200_ssd_review For the warranty issue, at one time Corsair's PSUs made by CWT were offered with a 5 year warranty, while Seasonic had less than that. Does that mean the coil whine plague unleashed by Corsair was by any measure more reliable than anything Seasonic offered? No. Has Craftsman been worth buying for the past decade, nope. Increasing the warranty is also marketing at the end of the day. Even OCZ increased the warranties on their data traps. That didn't make them fail proof. Quoted:
Quoted:Forget the 840 EVO. Yes we all know it had issues where it would get slower and slower over time. The 850 EVO does not suffer from the same problems the 840 did. Period.
The 850 EVO has pretty much the best price/performance over any other 250GB SSD on the market right now. That is why it is about the most recommended SSD across the board. I suggest you read some reviews of the 850 EVO. There are no issues with it as mentioned in those links. AnandTech, TweakTown. Also, Samsung warranties the 850 EVO for a full 5 years. That is pretty damn good for a SSD. Certainly better than the MX200's 3 year warranty. This is how the voltage states of Various SSDs work: SLC: 2x voltage states = 0: (0v), 1: (100%) MLC : 4x voltage states = 0: (0v), 1: (33%), 2: (66%), 3: (100%) TLC : 8x voltage states = 0: (0v), 1: (14%), 2: (28%), 3: (43%), 4: (57%), 5: (71%), 6: (86%), 7: (100%) As leakage occurs and there is a drop of voltage of lets say 11%. For MLC going from state 3's 100% to 89% still keeps it a large amount away from being close to state 2's 66%. Thus when the controller does its ECC pass it does not waste time to classify it as state 3. Now apply this situation to TLC and state 7's 100% down to again 89%. This is much closer to state 6 than it is state 7 and ECC has to account for the fact that it is still above state 6 and is in actually state7. This is where the slow down is experienced for stale data during reads. Needless to say if the voltage drop was 14% the data would be toast, and there is even a little bit of room for rounding errors but that is even less likely than outright data loss. That's right, TLC is entirely ill suited for archival purposes, we can go ahead and safely say that now. Samsung can not just ignore fucking physics and make flawless TLC blessed by Allah's beloved male goat. All they could do to slow down leakage was to increase the manufacturing node size and do it with 3d-NAND structuring. The reason why is easy enough to explain, the bigger the node size the slower leakage occurs. The 840 EVOs were 19nm and can experience the slowdown from sitting on a shelf unpowered within 8 weeks. The regular 840 series was done on a 21nm process and takes a couple of months for sure. Increasing the process to 40nm, that's a damn big jump, and it wouldn't surprise me to see the issues pop up within 2 years of use, but it will happen eventually. TLC and its infamous leakage is why Apple stopped using it for their iPhone 6 series. As to why you will see a lot of people buying the 850 EVO, if people were good at making informed decisions Bose and Beats would have died on the spot, and Intel would have been facing financial troubles during the Socket A days. Popularity rarely equals quality, it equals marketing. People see the better benchmarks and care not one iota about the other factors behind a products quality. As to the performance differences, outside of the rather out of the ordinary capture tests for the following, do you ever truly believe you would notice the difference between any decent SSD on the market which is still constrained by SATA 3? http://www.storagereview.com/crucial_mx200_ssd_review For the warranty issue, at one time Corsair's PSUs made by CWT were offered with a 5 year warranty, while Seasonic had less than that. Does that mean the coil whine plague unleashed by Corsair was by any measure more reliable than anything Seasonic offered? No. Has Craftsman been worth buying for the past decade, nope. Increasing the warranty is also marketing at the end of the day. Even OCZ increased the warranties on their data traps. That didn't make them fail proof. The 850 EVO and its TLC V-NAND is a less likely to have issues than a lot of MLC drives. So it isn't really something I'd be concerned with tbh. However, I'd say your chances of having either SSD work properly after so many years is kind of unlikely for 24/7 use. Its why a longer warranty can be good for the consumer, and not just marketing. Yes. You are correct in saying that realistically we wouldn't see much performance difference between the two. Except maybe while using RAPID mode on the 850 EVO. For gaming and general use either is worth buying. At this point if you prefer Crucial that is fine. They have fine SSDs. Mostly their older ones. Not sure what they are doing now though. Its like with the BX200 they are trying to turn into Kingston or something.
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